How can I build a compact EV3 gearbox? I'm building a sumo bot in EV3 and would like to have both 1:1 and 1:3 gear ratios, with the first being useful for general driving and the second more for pushing other robots.

My problem is, I cannot seem to figure out how to get the actual gear switching (moving a + shaped pin left and right on both motors) working. I have only the EV3 parts. Advice greatly appreciated.

I think it's quite limiting to only consider parts in the standard EV3 sets. Many technic sets have gear switches. I believe the cheapest set currently available that has it is the Race cart (42048), the switch can be motorized as was done for example in the motorized excavator (8043). Also the pieces are readily available on bricklink quite cheap.
I think it is a great idea to have a gear switch in a sumo bot, but the only reliable way to do it is use pieces designed for that.


Whatever happened to Architecture 21015 Eames House? The set was scheduled to be released in 2012, no such luck. Any idea on why it never came out? Was looking forward to building it.

According to: http://toysnbricks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=5288

  so apparently B and N made a mistake, and the Eames House is actually
  not going to be a set (or so Adam Reed Tucker says). He answered a
  question about it today at the Master model Builder competition in
  Chicago

So sad.


Does LEGO sell a DC relay for Power Functions? I’d like to use a signal from a (5V) littleBits circuit to control some (9V) Power Functions motors.
Does LEGO sell or recommend a DC relay to facilitate this sort of thing?
If the answer is no, I’d welcome any ideas or experiences in how to do this in a way that’s both easy and LEGO-compatible.

LEGO doesn't make something to directly facilitate this type of integration as far as I know. If you can get a PF extension wire, you could cut it and directly make the connections to your driver circuit.

You can drive the motor using the middle wires of the PF cable (C1 and C2).
For what its worth, I would personally prefer an H-bridge such as this one over a relay as you get faster switching and can use PWM for speed control among other benefits. You'd power a board like that using a 9V supply and connect the C1 and C2 power lines to one of the outputs. Your 5V logic-level signals would connect to one set of inputs to control the motor.


How are the Star Wars Action Battle effects implemented? I've seen the recent Action Battle sets in the Star Wars theme. Here's one example:

How do these sets work? Are there special elements unique to these sets that implement the cannons and breaking effects?

In many ways, this subtheme is a new implementation of fairly old idea.

The specialized elements in these sets are the cannons and the arrows that are fired out of them. These elements were first introduced in the Competition subtheme in the late 90s. Here one example set (8233 Blue Thunder vs. The Stinger):

The cannons are a single part that implements a simple spring-loaded firing mechanism triggered by toggling the axle on the back end.

The arrow is a specialized part that fits into the canon and includes a rubberized tip:

While the cannon and arrow elements are fairly non-standard (though by no means rare having appeared in around 100 sets over the years), the other mechanisms involved simply make good use of common System and Technic elements.

For example, here's how the mechanisms that launch the Speeder Bike and Ewok in that set are implemented:

There aren't any particularly special elements involved. The design simply makes clever use of standard parts to transfer the energy from the impact point on the target to other areas of the build causing it to launch various parts off in interesting ways.


Please help identify a set with bag of tan, white, grey, and light-blue 1x1 and 1x2 bricks? Help me identify what set this small bag goes to?

Recently, I bought a used 10214 London Tower Bridge. It came with all parts in one single bag. However, looking at the brick types and colors on the picture I would guess it is from 10214.


What kind of metal/alloy were on the old LEGO 9V train tracks? LEGO's train tracks (the actual rail part) were made from some kind of metal alloy that does not seem to oxidize, and seems to have good electrical charateristics (low resistance).

Any ideas what this might be?

I'm not sure about LEGO, but Märklin, a company that specialized in building train models used simple stainless steel since 1982, chances are that LEGO did the same:

Stainless steel is relatively cheap
It doesn't oxidize (as the name implies)
The electrical charateristics aren't good, but you don't need a very good (and expensive) material like copper for something "small" like toy train tracks (Märklin shows that it works)
Märklin builT the electric "H0" trains since 1935, such an experienced company might have been a inspiring example when choosing a material

Like starblue said, nickel-siver might also be possible. Another indication of this speculation is the German Wikipedia entry wich says:

  Die Schienenprofile von Modelleisenbahnen [...] bestehen mitunter aus Neusilber [...]

Translated: "the rail profile of model railways [...] sometimes consist of nickel-silver [...]"


What does 191767 mean in "Paper, Cardboard for Set 4336 #1, Scala Cat (191767)" In BL http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4336cdb01
This cardboard's name is "Paper, Cardboard for Set 4336 #1, Scala Cat (191767)"

What does "(191767)" mean here in the description?

My guess would be that it is the LEGO element ID (6-7 digits as far as my observation goes). This is different from the item number which is shown on the bricks or on BrickLink. The item number usually contains (or is equal to) the design number.

Example: I have a 2x6 plate in tan. This shows the number 3795. As this is a common piece I looked it up on the LEGO website (search by design number) and this reveals that the element ID (which also contains color information) is 4113993. Some element IDs contain the design number as well, e.g. 379501 is the very same plate in white.

Unfortunately the piece in question seems to be rather old, so I could not find any information about it online. (And to find element IDs is a challange by itself as they seem to be "LEGO internal".)


Choosing scale for train models: what scale is "L-gauge"? So, after being a LEGO fan for 40+ years, I'd like to try my luck at building some scale models of train sets (for example, an ICE 2). In planning my build, I ran into some difficulties or doubts determining the proper scale, specifically I was wondering what scale "L-gauge" models typically use.

If you directly relate the LEGO track geometry to a real-life standard gauge track you end up with a scale of 1435mm/37.5mm ~ 1:38.27 - which is somewhat in line with the "1:40" answer to a related question.

Now, per this link, an ICE 2 is 3.07m wide, which would translate to just under 10 studs wide (9.59, to be exact). Alarmingly, this would also mean that each train car model would be over 2 feet long, which is most likely problematic even with third-party R108 or R120 tracks.

On the other hand, when using a smaller scale (e.g., 8 studs wide, roughly 1:48 scale), it becomes basically impossible to create a to-scale interior (e.g., you could only place two seats/minifigs next to each other).

Is there a "standard" scale for LEGO train models or some other best practice to solve this conundrum?

TLDR: Scale for train MOC is a personal preference based on the needs.

Longer version:

There is a lot of personal preferences here. Like, how do you decide if the LEGO track geometry should translate to standard gauge? Why not any other track gauge available in other countries? How do you scale the model if it originally use slightly wider gauge? So there's already some flexibility in how strict you should be considering the scale of your train based on the track gauge.

Next thing is to decide if you want your train to operate within your LEGO city layout or just for the looks? LEGO trains are built in 6-stud wide size. People tend to design their own trains in 6-, 7- and 8-stud width size. They look good in city layouts - not too big and do not cause any serious troubles operating even on LEGO tracks. And somewhat to scale. I've made 48 cm (1.5748 feet) long 8-stud wide scale model of a train loco myself. It could operate on standard LEGO train tracks. And yes, it looks a little ridiculous on curves, but still works. However this scale doesn't let you design detailed interior, so compromises must be made.

Now if you prefer designing your train for the looks and operate it on some train layout (that could be made from LEGO compatible 3rd party elements) only from time to time you can go with whichever scale that fit your needs. It could be wider, longer, so train track geometry is the limit. As you mentioned your initial scaling suggested your train is going to be 2 feet long, which is less than half a foot longer than my model and you are not limiting yourself with just LEGO tracks, there shouldn't be a problem running your model on larger radius 3rd party (LEGO compatible) train tracks.

It is also worth mentioning some people use LEGO tracks as a narrow gauge. In such case train model, is obviously quite wide and it no longer fit into LEGO city (minifigure scale) layout. However there is plenty of space for details.


Do they have every brick type or just the basics at the PaB wall? I am looking for a specific piece and I don’t know if they will have it. Is it any piece or just basic ones like 2x4’s?

At the LEGOLAND California Pick a Brick wall last week (March 9th 2019) they had mostly basic brick shapes. There were some plates, some modified bricks with studs on the side, and a couple of containers had thick rubber wheels, the smallest kind. There was also a container of 1x6x6 panels in white. Nothing else stood out as particularly interesting.


Blue rounded 1x4 piece identification There aren't any LEGO markings. Does anyone recognize the sticker? It's most likely from around 2013. I would like to know what set it is from.

The distance from the bottom right corner of the brick in your image to the top of the plate-part is 67px, which for a plate is 3.2mm. The full distance from the bottom right corner of the brick in your image to the top of the brick is 609px, which equates to 28.78mm, close enough to the 28.8mm a 3 brick-high piece would be (3 * 9.6mm). Well spotted @rschulz

This is not LEGO. Searching for 1 x 4 x 3 on BrickLink does not bring up any Brick, Modifieds that have rounded corners on one side, let alone a bottom plate. Nor are there any 1 x 4 Plate, Modifieds that have an addition like the above.
While LEGO pieces are well served with publicly accessible and searchable parts databases, MegaBlocks and their ilk are not. Your best bet - assuming this is a MegaBlocks part, and the part was stickered in accordance with whatever instructions come with the set - is a laborious search of a MegaBlocks set database, looking for an image of a 2 on a blue part of the model depicted on the box art.


LEGO 75192 UCS Millennium Falcon: I need to store this set, not display it I need to store, for moving purposes, my 75192 LEGO UCS Millennium Falcon. All I see are display cases for sale.  Does anyone know of a storage bin or shipping container that can hold this ship?  I do not want to take it apart.

First, movers are widely varying in quality.  You might get folks that are poets and scholars or you might get somebody that drops every box.  If you've gone with the cheapest movers or this is your first move, it is probably best to assume the worst.  To me this means it is comparable to shipping something through the Post Office.
Given the size of this set it is going to be difficult to get a box that is big enough for it to fit flat.  I would plan on building a plywood box the right size.  If you go with cardboard boxes, get two of different sizes so they can be nested.  Cardboard boxes of adequate width will probably be really tall.  You should cut the vertical corners of the box to make it shorter when the top flaps are folded together.
Then you need to find a material to go between the box and the model.  If you can get foam and cut it to shape that will be easier to deal with, but you could use bubble wrap or packing peanuts.  There's glue for bonding the foam to itself.  I've also used various sizes of towels for packing material around LEGO models.
Particularly if you use packing peanuts, make sure to bag the model before putting it in.  Things that stick out like the radome could get lost, so bag them separately.


Why did the dark grey color of bricks change? Possible Duplicate:
  What is the bley (blay) color?

15 years ago there were 2 shades of grey - light and dark grey bricks. Some years ago, hue of new produced dark grey bricks shifted towards blue a little.

Did anyone else noticed the change? Why did it happened? I live in Central Europe, can it be change in distribution (factory changed)?

(I can't believe this hasn't been asked yet, so I'm still looking for a duplicate.)

In a nutshell, yes, everybody noticed and it was actually one of the biggest consumer backlash  the LEGO company had to endure. Fans vowed to never play with LEGO again, and so on. The fact that the LEGO company did the change unannounced, and even happily mixed both palettes in some sets, didn't help. Then they said the new colours were there to stay, and nowadays I'm not sure there are many fans left holding a grudge against this (apart from the ones who did really quit the hobby, I suppose, but then they aren't fans anymore, are they?)

And no, it wasn't a matter of factory change but a deliberate change to make the overall palette more satisfying and attractive for children, who are the target consumers of the LEGO company. Case in point, kids nowadays don't know about the old grays, and don't usually care.


Identify LEGO set. Star Wars? Trying to figure out what this set is from a large bin I bought.

This is from  Set # 75076-1: Republic Gunship

Keypart : Cone 2 x 2 x 2 - Open Stud in Dark Red


Lego identification help! Red torso, lightsaber handle, and grey pieces? What does this build? Can anyone help me with the instructions link?

In the top left corner you can see the back of this torso:

Torso SW Darth Maul Chest with Gray and Silver Collar and Belt Pattern / Printed Red Arms / Black Hands

So this is part of 75022-1: Mandalorian Speeder


Can you identify this minifigure with green skin and red hat? I would like to know who this minifigure is or what set it belongs to.

The minifigure that you have is Kithaba from Star Wars:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?M=sw397#T=P

it appears in this set:

9496-1: Desert Skiff


Looking for a Basic Lego set with mostly large bricks I am looking to buy my son his first set of LEGO bricks (because my mom will not give me my old ones!!!). Most of the 650ish piece sets I have looked at contain a large amount of 1x2, 2x2, etc. I am looking for a set that has more 2x4s, 2x6s or bigger than those with more smaller pieces. Can anyone recommend a good set? It does not need to be that big of a set either, but if I could find one that would be great!! I cannot wait to finally own my own LEGO bricks that don't actually belong to my parents!!!

If you can get to a Lego shop, there is a Pick a Brick wall with mostly large bricks that you buy by the cupful for less per brick than you would pay in most sets.

These two sites:

http://www.brickbuildr.com/view/pab/

, and

http://wallofbricks.com/

show you the current(ish) contents of the Pick a Brick walls around the world, they are updated by fans so they might not be up to date.


How to convert a model from "LEGO Digital Designer" Extended into non-Extended? I'm using LEGO Digital Designer. My LEGO model I've designed uses parts that don't exist. This is a bummer because I am trying to buy the parts to realize my design in actual, physical LEGO bricks!

I hypothesize I created this file not noticing which mode it was in. My only recourse now is to somehow "scrub" the design of these invalid parts.

I'm using LEGO Digital Designer 4.3. When it starts up, it shows 3 tabs:

LEGO Digital Designer
LEGO Mindstorms
LEGO Digital Designer Extended

As I understand it, LEGO Digital Designer Extended is a distinct mode from LEGO Digital Designer. The distinction is, Extended lets you use pieces that aren't in production. For example, you could pick a shape and color combination that have never been manufactured by LEGO.

How do I convert it to non-Extended mode? Alternatively, how do I figure out which pieces in my model are "illegal?"

One solution I've been experimenting with:

Export a .ldr file
Importing the .ldr export file into another program
The invalid bricks will be dropped, and from there they can be replaced

I'm on OSX so the ones I've successfully tried are:

LeoCAD
Bricksmith

Copy and paste works:

Open the model in Extended mode
Copy the design
Close the model
Open a new, empty document in "Standard" (non-Extended) mode
Paste the content

The bricks that does not exist in Standard mode will not be shown, leaving gaps in the model.


List of prototype or unreleased themes I recently discovered the unreleased "Seatron" theme as I was looking around for building ideas. After some searching, I also found the unreleased Europa theme which seems to be set in the 1700s and has elements of both Castle and Pirates.

Are there other unreleased or prototype themes and sets?

Brickipedia (A.K.A. lego.wikia.com) list unreleased sets and themes in the form of an article and category of articles. It does mention CYBOTS and Europa in addition to Seatron, although there is no guarantee that the list is complete.

CYBOTS

  Contained action figures using both System and the first TECHNIC
  ball joint parts. Several prototype models were created but final
  versions were not made. This theme was made mainly to test the first
  LEGO ball joints, which would be later used three years later on the
  Slizer theme.

Europa

  Set in the 18th century. The most likely reason that the theme wasn't
  released is that it was too close to both Castle and Pirates, both
  very similar themes.

Seatron

  The theme would have been set on an alien planet, with underwater
  astronauts. Many new monorail parts and colours were made for this
  theme, but when Futuron's monorail failed to make money, development
  of Seatron stopped.

Unnamed prototypes

Here's a space theme using purple and trans neon green from 1989:

And another 1989 space prototype with a distinctive color scheme using both light and dark gray with trans-red elements (dark gray would have been a new color at the time):

Brickipedia has a similar list for prototype sets and themes.


What are good books for building techniques of LEGO Technic I've been searching for good resources for especially LEGO Technic. I find the Unofficial LEGO Technic Builder's Guide by Paweł “Sariel” Kmieć. The book is very good at explaining things. Beside that one are there any other books that I can learn basic to advanced building techniques of LEGO Technic?

In addition to Sariel's excellent book, I'd suggest Yoshihito Isogawa's "Tora no Maki" (Book of secrets) downloadable PDF book, and his Ideas books in print. All are full of clever mechanisms, easy to reproduce and integrate into bigger constructions.
See: isogawastudio.co.jp


Is there a way to convert .ev3 files to .uf2 files? I am using Lego Mindstorms EV3 Education Edition and I am wondering if there is a way to convert the default .ev3 files to .uf2 files

The .UF2 file format appears to be a fairly compact, binary format for reliably transferring data to "microcontrollers" (i.e. small embedded systems such as the EV3 controller), and is the format used by the Microsoft MakeCode application, recommended as part of the First LEGO League.

The .ev3 file is actually a zip file containing a number of additional files, of which the .ev3p is an XML file representing the program itself.

At this time there isn't an official way to convert .ev3 programs to the .uf2 format, not least because things like custom blocks will need to be re-written in JavaScript, and certain other features may not be currently supported (i.e. data logging beyond console logging, 3rd party sensors, etc.).


Does the PF Servo motor return to center? Does the PF Servo motor, which was introduced in the 9398: 4x4 Crawler model, have return to center feature?

Here is another video from Sariel which shows that it returns to center: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_Gvuzsngg8

With the 58122c01 Remote Control Unit it returns to center if the remote is not actuated.
With the 64227 IR Speed Remote Control Unit  it returns to central position when the stop button is pressed.


Mindstorms NXT NXC RemoteStopProgram fails compilation I have two NXT bricks connected and they work together using Bluetooth, sending messages between the two works. The master NXT will start a program on the slave NXT with the RemoteStartProgram function. However, when I try to use RemoteStopProgram the compilation fails with 'Unknown function' in BricxCC and with this error when compiled with nbc:

File "/home/paul/bricks/carjulie_bt.nxc" ; line 124
#   __connectionWrite (1, __DCStopProgramPacket, __D0main)
#----------------------------------------------------------
1 errors during compilation

This is the relevant portion of the code, what am I missing ?

task main() {
  if (BTConnectToNXT("Sarah", SLAVE_CONN)) {
    RemoteStartProgram(SLAVE_CONN, "carsarah_bt.rxe");
    bool result = RemoteConnectionIdle(SLAVE_CONN);
    if (result) {
      Precedes(ListenToSarah,LookAtColours);
    }
    RemoteStopProgram(SLAVE_CONN);  // This line does not compile ?!
  }
}

Edit 2020-05-16: There is a simple workaround for this error, just send a message to all slaves to execute stopalltasks() function.

This bug is now also on Debian bugs: https://bugs.debian.org/cgi-bin/bugreport.cgi?bug=960772

EDIT 2020-05-18: SOLVED! This link https://sourceforge.net/p/bricxcc/code/HEAD/tree/x64/ contains a working nbc version for Linux! Thanks!!

Try changing which version of BricxCC you're using to one of the later releases:
http://bricxcc.sourceforge.net/test_releases/?C=M;O=D

What version are you using now?  I duplicated the compile error on v3.3.8.9, but I didn't get the compile error on v3.3.8.11:
http://bricxcc.sourceforge.net/test_releases/test_release20131007.zip

Hope that works!

PS: I didn't test anything, as I'm not using the feature -- I just saw it would compile on a different version.

If you use this, make sure you review compiler settings, as it looks like the newer version has [x] Enhanced Firmware option checked by default (which you may or may not have installed on your NXT brick, if using stock LEGO firmware).

Update #1:

According to https://sourceforge.net/p/bricxcc/code/HEAD/tree/NXT/history.txt, it may be a known issue that was fixed in a newer release:

Version 1.2.1.r5 (2013-02-16)
   :
- Fixed definition for several Remote* API functions which sent direct/system commands
  to other NXT devices via Bluetooth or RS-485

So, it looks like 1.2.1r5 or newer version of NBC command-line tools may be required.

Also, the test release I downloaded (v3.3.8.11 of GUI) has nbc.exe v1.2.1.5, while the other version I have (v3.3.8.9 of GUI) has nbc.exe v1.2.1.4 -- so this may be the issue.

Update #2:

For Linux, see https://sourceforge.net/p/bricxcc/code/HEAD/tree/386/ and https://sourceforge.net/p/bricxcc/code/HEAD/tree/x64/ 32 and 64-bit binaries, respectively.


Does the LEGO company sell LEGO brick organization bins? Possible Duplicate:
  What are some storage options?

Are there official LEGO brick storage and organization bins available?  If not, then what good 3rd party options are there?  I'm looking to transition away from just having large plastic boxes filled with LEGO bricks that require me digging through, and going to having a way to quickly access specific bricks I need when building.

The LEGO company has indeed regularly issued storage solutions. They may be great for kids (the latest ones are brick-shaped), but let's face it, for serious fans they are mostly pointless. And expensive.

Depending on the size of your collection and your sorting method (which is another debate, but remember to sort by form first, not by color), you'll want to switch to do-it-yourself storage racks (the ones with lots of plastic drawers) or whatever you fancy. If using drawers, make sure they are translucid, or have a sticker with the image of the part on them. (LEGOland designers glue one specimen of the actual part).

Some people just buy translucid boxes, try to find some shop which sells them in bulk (like, by 100 pieces), ask a caterer where he finds his for example.

It will require some experimenting anyway, so don't buy too much of an expensive item before being sure it's right for you.


Are LEGO Clikits elements compatible with the brick system? Are LEGO Clikits elements in some way compatible with the LEGO brick system?

According to this review on The Brick Blogger, yes, BUT...

After watching this video by Maniac4Bricks, it seems the compatibility is very limited.


What is the easiest technique for large builds? I recently acquired the Space Shuttle set, #10231, and find that it isn't a staged build--one with sequential bags. This leaves me at a bit of a loss over how to organize and search through 1200+ pieces while putting it together. What technique will allow me to more easily find the needed part during construction?

I recommend getting 15-20 small-medium tupperware containers (you can get them pretty cheap now). Separate the pieces in a way that makes sense to you. Tupperware has flexible sizing and they are transparent, making it easier to identify pieces from the side of the container.

You don't have to completely put each individual piece in its own bin. But, for example, you could put 1x1's of all colors in one tiny bin, all transparent pieces in another, etc.

The important points on choosing your bin contents is:

Make it so you know exactly which bin to reach for when you need a
certain piece. The bin should have a clear theme in your mind.
Ensure that you don't put difficult to tell apart pieces in the same
bin; they should be easy to differentiate even when only seeing half
of a part.

The first rule and the second are often conflicting. One thing I recommend is to keep even-length and odd-length pieces separate. Don't put 3 and 4 longs (of the same color and type) in the same bucket, but 2 and 4 is fine.

Half an hour sorting the pieces at the start can save much more than half an hour in the build, as well as making the build more pleasant and fun.


Why do LEGO bricks yellow at different rates? So, here is my LEGO Space Shuttle.  Originally built in 1991, never disassembled (unlike the rest of my sets), so all parts are original and all were exposed to the same amount of sunlight.

However, the amount of yellowing is highly variable.  The hinge for the manipulator arm (just back of the windshield) is like-new white, and the alignment pin for the arm (just in front of the green brick) isn't much different.

Two of the wing panels are much whiter than the others, and although it's hard to see, the hinged parts towards the back are two distinct shades of yellow.

What's the reason for this?

There are several reasons for this:

There isn't just one formula for the ABS plastic that is used in
LEGO. There are actually quite a few. Depending on the color,
translucency, and function, the mix of materials will vary.

Translucent pieces are quite a bit harder and more rigid than other
Lego bricks. Mini-figure accessories tend to be quite a bit softer
than other pieces (so they don't cause internal damage if/when
swallowed).

If you pull out several types of parts and pay close attention to
the hardness, flexibility, and stiffness, you will notice that not
all LEGO is made the same.
Even for similar parts, there is variance in the chemical mixes.
When you get a set, it is highly likely that the parts weren't made
from the same batch of plastic.

Mixing plastics with minor variations can cause changes in the rates
of UV damage and discoloration. It is really hard to get perfectly
matched colors across multiple batches of plastic.

The fact that LEGO colors are so consistent is due to the fact that
they have really high standards for quality control.

Oh, and if you want to restore your set to that new pristine white color, you can treat it with retrobrite or oxyclean and hydrogen peroxide. There are plenty of articles online if you do a quick search for either.


Connecting 2 NXT bricks in order to control motors and sensors from one brick Is it possible to connect two bricks using a cable (connecting port 4 to port 4) , and then have both programs run by only pressing one button? I want the sensors attached to one brick affect the motors that are attached to the other brick, if possible. I am only using NXT 2.1 programming if that helps.
Thanks !

What you're describing is not (directly) possible, but you DO have some alternative options:

The standard solution is to use Bluetooth. Two NXTs can communicate with Bluetooth using the Lego software.

Pair the NXTs using the on-brick menus.
Write programs for both NXT 1 and NXT 2:

At the start of the program, NXT 1 initiates a Bluetooth connection to NXT 2.
NXT 1 sends a message when it wants NXT 2 to do something; NXT 2 responds when it's finished.

Start both programs manually (in this setup, NXT 2 has to start first so it'll be ready when NXT1 connects).

If something less complex is acceptable, you can communicate using light sensors. Attach 2 light sensors facing directly into each other. One NXT can talk to the other by flashing the light on the sensor.

If you're open to alternative languages, LeJOS (Java for Mindstorms) gets you a lot closer to your goal. Through Bluetooth, NXT 1 can remotely start a program on NXT 2, or even access the motors and sensors. You can even communicate over high-speed RS485 by directly wiring two port 4's together, just like you said.

There used to be a 3rd-party NXT-G block for sending data over RS485. With it you could write programs for NXT 1 and NXT 2 like I described above, but with a direct wire between port 4's instead of Bluetooth. It would probably have lower latency than Bluetooth, but it's still not as direct as you would like.


Do LEGO stores sell bricks in bulk? I've seen these pictures of LEGO stores, but have been unable to work it out: Are they are plastic bubbles on the wall that you can dig youe hand into and buy LEGO bricks in bulk, or are they just for decoration? Do the high-street LEGO stores offer a bulk-brick-buy option, or do they just sell sets and games?

You can indeed take bricks and purchase them. I've listed the main types of Pick-A-Brick in this answer:

  The LEGO retail outlets house a matrix of bins, each filled with a
  certain type of brick. The bricks used tend be excess bricks from
  LEGO's own factories and some bricks of the same kind may be included
  in more than one bin. Bricks are packed into small or large plastic
  cups, you pay for getting as many bricks as you can in one cup.

The top few rows of bins are generally just decorative, it would take a fully grown adult on a kickstool/ladder to reach the top bins.

Other products unique to LEGO retail stores include:

Exclusive and limited edition sets (which can also be bought from Lego.com)
You can build and buy minifigures which consist of torso, legs, head, helmet/headpiece and accessory.
Events, such as the monthly mini-builds. Models you can build in-store to take home. Subject to age restrictions.


What set(s) are these 2x2 hexagon bricks from? I've inherited quite a few interesting pieces from relatives who outgrew LEGO. Any idea what set(s) these came in? They don't have any numbers so I can't look them up on pick-a-brick or anything.

You have the following pieces:

6037 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3

6043 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3 Corner

6042 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3 with Side Studs

6032 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 3 x 1 2/3 Sloped

These were used in about 10-15 sets during a brief period from 1995-1998, most of them in the Aquazone theme, but some made their way into other themes as well (e.g. Castle).


Is it legal to sell a custom element that provides a Technic pin connection? I'm wondering if it would be legal to produce a custom piece for Lego Technic and sell it? The piece features 4 compatible connection holes for Technic pins. From what I've researched in the Lego Technic patents, the claim (in the first sentence of each patent) applies to "sets" not individual parts. Here are the patents:

https://www.google.com.gi/patents/US5964635
http://www.google.com/patents/US6736691

Does anyone know if there are specific patents covering the pin hole system?

Note: I would of course make sure to use my own designs and not copyright infringe on any of their trademarks regarding packaging, marketing etc.

I am not a lawyer, and I recommend you consult one before you start dropping money on injection molds, but as far as I know this should be fine. SBrick definitely already does this:

In most jurisdictions, patents have a term of 20 years or less. The Technic pin connection dates back to Expert Builder in 1977, so it is not patent encumbered at this point.

The two patents that you linked to from the late 1990s appear to be for ZNAP, which uses a different connection system:


How can the new LEGO pneumatics be used for trains? LEGO came out with new pneumatics. Since I'm a train guy (my wife is more into technic and already saving money for the Mercedes ;)) I was wondering, how could we apply the new things for Trains?!

The first thing that came up in my mind when reading your question is: operate switches on your track using pneumatics. You'll require a lot of hose, and would need to experiment a bit with how long the tubes can be without losing too much pressure, but the actuators could operate the switch handles easily, and you can route the hoses under buildings or even under your train table.


EV3, menu with the buttons? I've been trying to make a menu that when you press the < button on the block it will start and > button to stop.
The menu will also only occur at the start, it will not be ongoing. I've attempted to use the Switch block but it always goes to the default case and I can't make it into 2 options, i.e. "begin" and "stop" the program.

Any help would be much appropriated.

The brick buttons are a bit tricky.

In pseudocode:

Wait for "<" button to be pressed and released
Run a program that leaves the motors running.
Wait for ">" button to be pressed
Stop the motors

The tricky parts:

which mode of the wait for block
which button to watch
button being pressed vs bumped
ignoring the extra section of the wait for block

And finally there is the possibility that the desire was to provide an option to stop the program at any time while it was running, not just at the end of the program to stop running motors.  That is a much different problem for which this example only hints at a solution.


What are LEGO baseplates made from? I want to lasercut a green LEGO baseplate for a project, but cannot cut a plastic with the laser if it contains PVC or Vinyl.

Does anyone know if the green baseplates are free from these materials.

LEGO baseplates are made from ABS plastic, like most of the opaque rigid plastic LEGO elements since 1970. ABS is a thermoplastic consisting of a styrene monomer with the addition of an acrylonitrile momomer and a butadiene monomer. There is no PVC or vinyl present.

I suggest reviewing this thread for more on laser-cutting ABS. It is not a trivial matter to get a good result.

Edited to add:
In response to a query from a "safe toy" website, LEGO categorically stated that they do not use PVC in any of their products except in rare instances like electrical wiring insulation.


How can I make a LEGO heroica scale fountain of youth using bricks from Fortaan or Waldurk? I have started collecting heroica and I thought "wouldn't a fountain of youth be superb!" but I only have Fortaan and Waldurk... any ideas?

Thought I'd finally step up to the plate - here's my first attempt.

On the basis that the Fountain of Youth is probably an end goal rather than something you'd come across on the way somewhere else I've gone for an 8x8 base, but as we're limited to these two sets I've had to go with grey - I could probably have gone with the 4x4 blue plates, but felt that might limit other options, and wanted the figures to be able to move around the fountain a bit.

I've added the goblet as a collectable treasure that could have a "healing" rule for use in campaigns:


How to convert LEGO base plate to a DUPLO base plate? How can I convert a regular LEGO base to a DUPLO base? I have a table that cannot be changed and it has built-in LEGO baseplates, but I need it to be 100% DUPLO compatible. Any LEGO to DUPLO baseplate converters?

The table IS already cross compatible, even though it doesn't look it. The tabletop or LEGO baseplate is cross molded for DUPLO pieces to fit and lock in on top of the regular LEGO baseplate.

PART ONE: THE PICTURED PROOFS...

So, let's imagine the top of your table is my unopened gray baseplate.

We'll use a DUPLO Cock-A-Doodle-Doo for an example DUPLO model.

Sorry, but I don't want open my baseplate just yet, so in the next four shots we'll use these green plates to show the cross interlocking magic of LEGO and DUPLO.

PART TWO:  THE WHAT IFs...

Now, I did say the magic was cross interlocking, so... WHAT IF your tabletop HAD started off DUPLO and we wanted it to be, in our minds, 100% compatible with regular LEGO.

You see, it is compatible, again, it may not look it at first glace, but as we can see using these White 2x4 LEGO bricks with a Bright Yellow 2x2 DUPLO brick things are indeed cross compatible.

I'm gonna get uber geeky here, but the harder to imagine negative space inside the White 2x4 LEGO brick interlocks beautify with the easier to see studs of the 2x2 Yellow DUPLO brick.

Well, hey!  Hoped to have saved you time, money and effort in fabricating a new table.  Later!


What is this brick and how do I use it? My son received a huge assortment of legos for his birthday and one piece we would like to know how to use, but I can't seem to find information on it anywhere! I would sure appreciate any help you fine folks might be able to offer. I am not able to share my picture because it's too big. The part I'm talking about is this one. The only words or numbers I can find on ours is "2002 lego group" and the numbers "2223". Thanks in advance. :)

This is

Record and Play Module, 16 x 10 x 4 with Built-in Motors 4.5V (Item No: 3173c01)


Identify LEGO set with caped red minifigure Hi just wondered if someone can help identify a set for us? The best clue I have is a red minifigure with a red cape, red full face helmet & black head (no face). I also have an orange square with a face on it which may go with this figure. Thanks heaps!

These items are from different sets.

Let's begin with the most obvious - minifigure. It is a Royal Guard from Star Wars and there are couple of versions of them. Yours seems to be with arms and hands in Dark Red. Yet, there are still two version of them (depends on the type of cape you got):

Royal Guard with Dark Red Arms and Hands was part of two sets in 2014-2015.

Or, it can be Royal Guard with Dark Red Arms and Hands (Spongy Cape) that was part of another two sets in 2016 and 2019.

Next comes a tile. Your picture is tiny, however I think I have identified it correctly as Tile 1 x 1 with Groove with Face with Narrowed Eyes, One Eyebrow Raised and Small Frown (Kryptomite) Pattern in Orange. It was available in two sets (non Star Wars).

It is impossible to identify correctly which wedge plate version you got in your picture. It is either Wedge, Plate 4 x 9 without Stud Notches which appeared in 58 sets in White color, or Wedge, Plate 4 x 9 with Stud Notches that was part of 14 sets in White.


Communication between two Ev-3 bricks How the communication between two Ev-3 bricks is done over Bluetooth? What is the nature of data that can be communicated?

You can do it using EV3 Bluetooth blocks.
You can send integers, string or boolean using different "mailboxes" so the receiver just need to use the Block to read from a particular mailbox to get the data.

Maybe I write a post where I detail all this more because LEGO documentation isn't helpful at all.


Star Wars Ship - Which LEGO Set Is This? I received a large assortment of free LEGO from a family member, and can't seem to locate which ship this may be.

I'm thinking it's part of the Clone Wars. Anyone recognize it?

Its at least two sets.

Set #7674 "V-19 Torrent".
and...
Set #8087 "TIE Defender".

Extra Credit:

Upper left hand corner.

Set #6747 "Race Rider".


Are there LEGO sets unique to the UK/Europe? I'm going on vacation to the UK and am looking to pick up some sets for 2 collectors (if they have them).  It's a surprise gift so I don't want to ask them about it.

I am wondering if there are sets exclusively sold in the UK or Europe that are not easy to find in the US?

I completely agree with what Gareth said above. There have been several sets sold exclusively in the Uk and Europe throughout Lego's production history. However, if what you are asking is recent or more unique/exciting ones, then I can think of a couple off the top of my head.

Lego BR toy minifigure sold(if I remember correctly) in BR stores in the UK:
Brickset BR toy

Team GB series sold in UK and maybe Europe:
Brickset GB team

DFB German football team sold exclusively throughout Europe(possibly only in Germany):
Brickset DFB series

London bus given at store opening in London:
Brickset London Bus

Royal Guard buildable figure exclusive at Leicester Square store:
Brickset Royal Guard

I know the 2 Lego CLub Max minifigures is exclusive, but I dunno if it was only sold in UK/Europe:
Lime Green Max and Regular Max

The lego House minifigure/ set was sold in Billund stores:
Lego House set

The Legoland train is exlusive to Florida and Denmark:
Legoland train

The 2 Nesquik bunny sets were available in Germany, New Zealand, and Australia(who doesn't like chocolate milk?):
Nesquik

British exclusive minifigure Lester(not Chester, if you saw my edits):
Lester minifigure However, it's been a while, so I don't think you can still get this from the scratch ticket.

Oh, alright, you caught me. I used Brickset. Sorry for the long post. This is about all that I could find/think of. Some of the entries that I found, I wasn't sure of, so I didn't post them.
Please note that the places where they are sold are based only on my memory.


Ø in LEGO part names Many LEGO part names use a Ø character in the name, for example, Armor For Hand W/Ø 3.2 Shaft (28803) or Beam A 4M Ball/Cup Ø10.2 (90611).  Can anyone explain what the Ø means?

Ø is a pretty standard notation for diameter. So w/Ø 3.2 Shaft means the item has a shaft that has a 3.2(mm) diameter.


What is the set number for these Star Wars parts? We lost the majority of my son's Lego collections in a flood. The attached pictures are all we have and need them identified for insurance.

Would appreciate your help identifying the set number.

You have (part of) set 5974 - Galactic Enforcer (2009). This set is missing a few parts, as the back end is supposed to be rather symmetrical and there is a separate space ship (black). See the picture below.


How to disassemble this Technic combination? How should I disassemble the axle (7) attached in this model?

(I tried using a brick separator but failed to remove it.)

Simply use the longest technic shaft you have, and use it to push the #7 shaft out just enough to where you can finish pulling it out with your fingers. Then pull out the long shaft.


How can I build a LEGO heart? In the spirit of Valentine's Day...

How can I build a two-dimensional LEGO heart? Here is an example of the shape I'm looking for.

Perhaps the model should be built from the bottom upward? I would prefer that some Red Slope 45° 2 x 2 bricks (and their inverted counterparts) be used to achieve this.

The size of the finished model should not be much bigger than one's hand.


Reinforcing a pair of Bent Double 11.5 Liftarms under Rotational Tension I purchased a clone MOC out of interest a few months back, this following set.

Because it does use clone pieces, I knew there was a high chance of breakage and poor fit, especially in the tensegrity arm actually supporting the upper structure. The arm failed today, so my plan is to replace and reinforce the original arms with official Technic parts.

My plan is to use the 5x3 L beams from Technic to alleviate the strain on the angled portion of the liftarm, which is taking a lot of weight. The arm, removed from the set, currently is bowed in due to the strain.

Because the snaps happened on the outside corner, I was wondering if attaching L beams on the outside or inside corners would be sufficient, or if there is another method of reinforcing this liftarm so that the stress in that region is reduced.

Adding the L beams in parallel with the liftarm would distribute tension to the L beams rather than just the angled bit, which should reduce the stress.
Alternatively, adding them underneath would (hopefully) add compression on the L beams in the opposite direction.
I believe that the official technic pieces should be a bit stronger on the replacement liftarms, but I'd like to reduce the strain in this area anyways, so alternative solutions are also welcome.

The replacement part is available in trans clear plastic, I would suggest using them to either replace the existing beams or be connected to either side. It will be a bit cheaper if you decide to use white beams instead.
The poor quality of the clone brand pieces is one thing, but I think you might want to consider tackling the issue of weight. If you are already happy with making modifications to the structure, consider removing or substituting some of the pieces in the floating castle.

Perhaps in addition to any modifications I would also suggest using a clear fast-setting super glue.
I use Loctite Clear Super Glue to adhere tips to my pool cue and it can last well until the tip has worn down. It is best to roughen up the surface a bit before applying the glue so that it adheres better.
Make sure you only glue the pieces and not the actual connections if you want to be able to dissemble the model. Give the glue plenty of time to set without putting any tension or compression on the joint.
The result will be nearly invisible, and may could even be stronger than the original beams depending on the quality of plastic used.


How to differentiate Cellulose acetate vs ABS LEGO bricks? If one had a large tub of old LEGO brick, with some pieces going back to the 1950s, but all mixed together, are there any distinguishing features or appearance to the 1950s cellulose acetate bricks compared to the newer ABS plastic? Do the plastics look different somehow? Or would you just have to look for other features like lack of studs, flat bottoms on 1x1 round pieces, etc?

LEGO switched from cellulose acetate (CA) plastic to ABS plastic in 1963. They continued to distribute CA pieces in sets until their existing supply was exhausted, so during the transition beginning in 1963 both types of pieces were sold in sets. In North America, LEGO pieces were manufactured beginning in 1961 under license by Samsonite, which continued to distribute CA pieces mixed in sets until about 1970.

Distinguishing CA from ABS pieces based on intrinsic criteria is something of an art.

The first thing to look for is warping. CA plastic is much more prone to warp than ABS, which is perhaps the main reason the switch was made. If you find an old piece that is warped, odds are it is CA. You can check for warping by placing a piece on a flat surface and checking for any "wobble." Another good method is to build a simple brick wall with the pieces and look for gaps or poor connections.

Generally CA plastic is much shinier than ABS plastic when it is in good condition. CA pieces will lose the shine with wear, so this is not always possible to see.

There are also some tell-tale clues in the colors.

Red CA pieces have more orange than the ABS version.
Yellow CA pieces are not as bright as ABS pieces.
Blue CA pieces are a brighter shade than the ABS version.
Black, white, gray and clear CA pieces are harder to differentiate. Transparent CA bricks can be somewhat brownish, while later transparent bricks, made from polycarbonate, can have a bluish cast.
Green CA bricks are very scarce, but some green plates are CA.


What Technic set should I get for general Technic MOC? I want to do some small machines in these books, But the sets recommended by the author are super expensive (set 8043 8053).

  LEGO Technic Sets I Recommend (December, 2010)
  Honestly, it is hard to find LEGO Technic sets which include a good variety of parts. Most include the parts you’ll need in order to make a particular model, like a car or helicopter. In addition, the sets available in the USA differ from those in Japan, where I live. Of the sets sold in the USA, I think the best set is #8043 (Motorized Excavator) ....

What are today's "equivalent version" of 8043 and 8053?

You should really buy the Lego Technic Bucket Wheel Excavator. It's a great price for the parts and has a very wide variety of parts: banana gears to Power Functions Elements.


What are Good LEGO (or similiar) sets to play-prototype machines working with fluids? I want to play around with fluid engines.

I'm aware that LEGO is sometimes used in labs for prototyping kinematic components, are there successful examples of operating with fluids?

Have pistons, pipes or other conduits, valves and maybe turbines been built with LEGO?

With what components?

There are a number of Lego Pneumatic sets with airtight tubes, valves and switches which could be put into use with fluids. One is 9641, Pneumatics Add-On Set.

Bear in mind that the pneumatics sets can command a much higer price than those sets with a similar number of parts, and buying individual pieces can also get expensive. Have a look at BrickLink to see what parts are avalible.

There is also a Simple & Powered machines set which comes with sails that could be used as a wind turbine, or a basic pump, but if you wanted to use steam or liquids with Lego you would have to be very careful.

A company called LPE Power has made some very detailed and very powerful pnuematic engines however I doubt they would work with water.


Facebook ads for cheap LEGO : legit or scam? Today, I spotted an ad on my Facebook feed for the website "winnerattop"

Someone commented on Facebook that this website is a mirror of "childtocoll".

According to scamadvisor, both domains are only 4 days old, are hosted in France and have a Chinese owner.

The website headlines with "Black Friday sale", selling several popular LEGO sets at discounts of up to 80%.

For example, it sells the Parisian restaurant at no more than €27.20. See screenshot below.

Considering the owner being based in China, I'd be inclined to think that this is LEPIN being passed off as LEGO, but even for LEPIN those prices are suspiciously low.

Does anyone know what's up with this website?

And is it safe to assume there is zero chance that this is legit?

I raised this same question on Reddit.

Two people over there pointed out that the website was actually selling pants instead of LEGO.

So I just tried to access the website through https://hide.me/en/proxy.

When I use their Dutch proxy, the site can't be loaded at all.

When I use their American proxy, the site is shop for pants.

When I use their German proxy, the site is shop for LEGO sets.

So I guess it could not be a scam more obviously.

Not only are they scamming people by "selling" items at ridiculous prices that they're never planning to deliver, but they're "selling" LEGOs in one part of the world and pants in another part on the very same website!

I've never seen anything like it.


What LEGO set are these bags from? I've got tons of partially built sets. I don't know which set these bags belong to. Trying to sort my kids' LEGO bricks. Any tips welcome!

I think you have bags from set 75876-1 Porsche 919 Hybrid and 917K Pit Lane from the Speed Champions line of sets.

The Plate 4x4 Round Corner, in combination with the red and white color scheme, the tires and the transparent yellow 1x2 plates, as well as the fact that there are at least 6 bags (as per the numbers on the bags you have) drive me to this conclusion.


Where can I download the software for old RCX-era Mindstorms sets? These days I've been coming across a lot of people who've purchased used MINDSTORMS sets from the RCX era, only to find they didn't come with a CD. And in order to use the set, assuming that using an alternate programming language is not an option, the buyer can either Buy a CD off Bricklink, or find a place to download the software.

While CDs aren't overly expensive, they're going to become harder to come by as time goes on, and being able to download the software is preferable since it's almost instant and doesn't cost money. LEGO technical support representatives have stated over and over again that they don't care about people copying and downloading their old software, so downloading their old software is perfectly legal.

Does anyone know a reliable place to download the software for the Robotics Invention System 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0? CD images are preferable, but working stand-alone installers are valid as well. Extra points to anyone who can also provide a place to download the software for the Vision Command, Ultimate Builders Set, Exploration Mars, Extreme Creatures, and Robo-Sports expansion packs. And super extra special points if someone knows where to get an iso for the Windows XP-specific Vision Command software and the Robotics Invention System promotional CD.

I've found a seemingly broken website, but from the sources I was able to salvage these addresses, they work just fine (as far as the download goes, I did not check the contents):

http://www.brickfactory.info/iso/files/9731_lego_vision_command_xp.zip -> German version
http://www.brickfactory.info/iso/files/9722_extreme_creatures_1.0.zip

Vision Command English:

https://www.mediafire.com/?xo6xfjvnbzaaf7u

Multi Software Download -> English:

https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ohsruj4zmjy9g

There are many other downloadables from this site:

http://biomediaproject.com/bmp/files/LEGO/cds/temp/1349_Lego_Studio_Dutch_XP.zip
http://www.brickfactory.info/iso/files/1382_lego_studio_sound_fx.zip
http://biomediaproject.com/bmp/files/LEGO/cds/temp/3804_dutch.zip -> RIS 2.0
http://biomediaproject.com/bmp/files/LEGO/cds/temp/3804_french.zip -> RIS 2.0
http://www.brickfactory.info/iso/files/3806-3809_Spybotics_english.zip
http://www.brickfactory.info/iso/files/8299_lego_submarine.zip
http://biomediaproject.com/bmp/files/LEGO/cds/temp/8428_Turbo_Command_CD1.zip
http://biomediaproject.com/bmp/files/LEGO/cds/temp/8428_Turbo_Command_CD2.zip
http://biomediaproject.com/bmp/files/LEGO/cds/temp/8450.zip -> cybermaster_mission
http://biomediaproject.com/bmp/files/LEGO/cds/temp/lego_cybermaster_dutch.zip
http://www.brickfactory.info/iso/files/8547_mindstorms_nxt_2.0.zip
http://www.brickfactory.info/iso/files/9731_lego_vision_command_xp_french.zip

As for the RIS ISO I've found this torrent but it looks like there is no recent activity, maybe one could ask the once-downloaders to seed for a while?
https://www.demonoid.ph/files/details/2583886/004623788640/


Lubricating 4.5V 6216m2 engine Is there any way to lubricate old 4.5V 6216m2 engines (these grey round ones)? I have 2 from my childhood, and they still run, but have trouble starting and make an awful 'whining' sound from time to time. I see no way to open them, and I haven't found anything through google about opening them. (I was hoping to see videos, but can't even find a text description...)

You don't need to open the motor to get the lubricant in. Electric motor oil is thin enough to work in if you hold the motor with the shaft uppermost and slowly rotate the shaft by hand while squirting a small amount down the shaft.

Don't use a lot - try a small amount, and see how well it works. Add more if needed.

(this one I found on Amazon)


Linear Actuator of the boom of 42006 jams I just built a 42006 excavator, and the Linear Actuator jams such that it can't be rotated. I think that the overly sharp angle of the u-joint at the top of the boom is the reason.

Is there a workaround?

First off, you should check the instructions to see if you made a mistake before going into some long repair method. Even if you find no mistake, what I would do is disassemble the entire crane assembly and then reassemble it; this would fix problems you may not have noticed. Another thing you could do is remove the actuator and fully extend and retract it a couple of times. If you feel any extra friction while doing this, than the actuator might need lubrication.


Advice on Power Functions for an 11-year-old? My 11-year old son wants to add power to his creations but neither of us know quite how to start this new adventure. He doesn't have any Technic or Mindstorms sets.

Looking through sets online, it seems the best approach might be to purchase the Power Functions Motor Set 8293, along with a Technic set of some sort. He will need instructions to figure out how it works, and then might be ready to build his own creations using the parts he has. (If you can recommend some fan sites appropriate for 11-year olds, that have good instructions, that would be helpful too.)

Appreciate any advice!

The easiest way to start out with Power Functions is to get an official LEGO set that comes with Power Functions. This will allow your child to really understand how Power Functions works.

If he is more into traditional LEGO building with standard LEGO System pieces, one of the LEGO City Trains with Power Functions would be the best options. They include all the Power Functions elements needed to operate the train, and he can also reuse these parts in his own custom LEGO creations once he understands how they work.

If he is into advanced mechanical builds, the LEGO Technic line is a great option. Some LEGO Technic sets come with Power Functions already included, but they tend to be large and expensive. Others do not come with Power Functions, but alternate instructions for adding Power Functions are made available either in the instruction booklet, or at LEGO's website.

Some LEGO Creator Expert sets also have alternate instructions with Power Functions added. The #10257 LEGO Creator Carousel and the #10247 LEGO Creator Ferris Wheel are some examples. Again, with these sets you have to purchase the Power Functions elements separately, but it is made very clear what is needed and how to install the parts. (LEGO Power Functions components are available individually at LEGO's Online Shop.)

Please note that currently there are two LEGO Power Functions systems on the market, and they are NOT compatible. One is the original LEGO Power Functions system (now referred to as LEGO Power Functions 1.0), and the other is LEGO Powered Up (also referred to as LEGO Power Functions 2.0). The new system has similar components, but they are not interchangeable, and they cannot be mixed. The new system works with Bluetooth wile the old system uses IR. The new system can be operated either by a traditional remote or an app. The old system only works with a remote.

So, it is a good idea to make a decision right now which system you want to invest in, and pay careful attention that sets and components you buy are compatible with the system you choose. In general, you can power LEGO sets with either systems, even if it calls for the other system, although some features may not work, or not work exactly the same. The components have a similar size and shape (i.e. you can install the new Power Function system in sets that were designed with old Power Functions in mind).

As far as resources for custom Power Functions projects, I found YouTube to be the most helpful. Power Functions can be a bit complex, so seeing exactly how something is installed can be very useful. Once your son learns the concept of how Power Functions works with an official set, he will start to have his own ideas of what he wants to power. At that point, he can do a search on YouTube, and will probably find someone who already worked on a similar project.

One of the most well-known and respected LEGO Technic and LEGO Power Functions builders is Sariel. His YouTube channel is full of tips, tricks, custom builds, and reviews of official LEGO Technic and LEGO Power Functions sets. His channel is professional and child-friendly: https://www.youtube.com/user/searme/videos

To give you an idea, here is a video by Sariel with some more advanced tips and tricks for using LEGO Power Functions: https://youtu.be/vfIBGIIleCI


Which combination has a lower gear friction? I need roughly a 1:3 reduction and I see a couple of ways to achieve it:

using a 8t gear and a 24t gear (1:3)
using 2x 12t gears and 2x 20t gears (1:2.779)
using a 16t gear and a 40t gear (1:2.5)
using a 12t gear and a 36t gear (1:3)

Now, size issues aside, and assuming all axles are held by at least two beams, how do these combinations compare as far as wasting the least amount of power due to friction? What about torque? (where the 8t gear may have an issue)

This is for a high-RPM, low torque situation, so I am not exactly super concerned about backlash or torque forces, just efficiency and friction.

I would be open to other gears as long as the reduction is in the same rough ballpark as the aforementioned, especially if it's more efficient somehow.

According to Sariel's gear tutorial in chapter 5, Efficiency:,

- the less gears, the better
 - the smaller gears, the better

Based on this principle the first setup looks the best, but you are right that the 8 tooth gear is the weakest of all and it has the most backlash too, if any of these are valid concerns for your build.

Note that gears can be strengthened by using them in parallel by putting some 24 tooth on one axle and the same number of 8 tooth on the other, mating them together all at once.

If you are concerned by backlash, you can experiment with springs, rubber bands or other ways to put a constant load on the system.


Which set is this bag from? It has mostly azure pieces Can someone help me figure out which set this is from? Dated 2011.

This is a bag from Dimensions Starter Pack parts (71200).


What LEGO sets include minifigure with both arms and hands molded together? I was looking through my collection and found a minifigure torso with the arms and hands molded together. Does anyone know what set a minifigure like this came from?

Torso with the arms and hands molded together sounds to me like the ones released with NBA basketball (so they can throw the balls better?)
A list on Bricklink


How does LEGO handle the breakage of Hero Factory sockets? My son has a slowly growing collection of Hero Factory figures, and they have accumulated a consistent problem: socket connector cracking.
The tips of the angular part of the limb which connects to a socket tend to split, causing loose limbs, then eventually a separation of the tip, which causes the limb to fail connection with the socket.

This is through non-daily, low use.  Are there ways to prevent this?  What is LEGO doing to address this?
I've started to notice LEGO (and even Megablocks) using similar ball socket connections on non-Hero Factory  toys, and expect this sort of failure to be common.  I've not seen breakage of this kind through my multiple decades using LEGO.
FOLLOWUP
Per the recommendations below, I've contacted LEGO about this issue.
From LEGO:

I am so sorry to hear (and actually see!) about the broken LEGO elements that you have. Here at The LEGO Group we hold ourselves to an extremely high quality standard. The fact that your elements have broken is something that we take really seriously.
We would be more than happy to send you replacements for these pieces right away. If you would be so kind as to provide us with a little bit more information on the parts, we will be sure to help you out.

After a little research, I let them know the parts were from either Stormer (7169) or Breez (7165) depending on the color, that the other limb ends from those sets were separating in a similar fashion, and asked whether they had noticed similar faults with these types of pieces historically (morbid curiosity).
From LEGO:

Thanks for getting back to use with the sets that you have broken pieces from. I am so sorry to hear that these parts have broken. That is unfortunate. I was able to pull up the image of the parts that you sent with your original email and was able to see the exact pieces that you need. Sadly, these parts have been discontinued and we are unable to replace those parts for you. I do apologize for this. I wish there was some kind of replacement to send, but sadly, there is nothing as a substitute for those parts.
Again, we wish we could help you restore your LEGO set back to new but unfortunately the pieces you need are no longer available through us. There is hope though, Peeron.com is website run by a group of LEGO fans that contains information on LEGO sets, replacement parts, building instructions and more. It’s not affiliated with the LEGO Group but we know from other fans that it has a good collection of older building instructions to download, discontinued pieces to purchase, and great set information.

Ah well, thanks anyway!

Each time I've heard someone from LEGO speak about quality, they tend to insist on on simple message: they can't do anything on a problem they don't know about. This may seem very obvious, but they feel it needs to be repeated anyway.

What this means is that they want every single customer with any quality problem to actually report it. Apart from the fact that they always help customers directly, they record all of it and the number of times a problem is reported is also a good indicator for LEGO that the problem is serious and needs to be addressed.

A simple example: instruction books and sticker sheets regularly ended up bent or damaged. Through the number of complaints this generated, LEGO has learnt about the problem and how seriously it was perceived by its customers. As a result, instructions and sticker sheets are now packaged (manually, I might add, which has an extra cost) in a sleeve with a cardboard to protect them, at least in bigger sets (again, because of the cost).

So, in a nutshell, that's the most important thing LEGO does about all quality problem: they listen.

I have no way of knowing myself if that particular problem of ball joints in Hero Factory figures is very widespread or well known, but the more people report it to LEGO, the bigger the chance it's going to be solved. And in the meantime, everyone who contacts them will get replacements anyway.

So I would advise you to just follow that route: each time you get a broken part, go to the LEGO customer service Replacement Parts page, select "a piece broke while building", type in the set number and select the part which broke. You'll even get a chance to enter in detail what happened. So you'll get a replacement, which solves your immediate problem, but in the background LEGO might learn that this particular part is too fragile if a lot of customers report the problem.

One last thing which needs to be said is that even if LEGO is aware of a problem, or addressing it, or maybe already solved it, it may take time for the solution to reach the public. A new, enhanced version of a part might not appear in sets before the stock of the other version has been used, for example (unless the older version is so bad that LEGO will recycle the stock entirely, of course, but that probably doesn't happen too often).

Note: I apologize if this answer is very generic in nature and doesn't address the ball joints specifically (thus no answers on the "are there way to prevent this" part, although I guess a little bit of soap might help), but I feel it's very important to understand how LEGO deals with quality problems in general.


Why does the Gyro Sensor not work correctly in Virtual Robotics Toolkit? I somehow found out about Virtual Robotics Toolkit and when I did, I decided that it would be great software to use for Lego League. Later in my research, I found that it automatically had the newest tables.

Soon I was designing a robot and code for my team, but as soon as I tested it the virtual robot started driving off to one side. Even though it was doing this, the EV3 software said that it was at 0°. When I tested the same program in real life, the robot drove perfectly straight.

You can download the source code here. (ORBIT3R-BOT.ev3)
You can download the robot model here. (ORBIT3R-BOT.lxf)
You can download the robot model here. (ORBIT3R-BOT.ldr)
You can download the VRT project here. (IntoOrbit)
You can download all the above (and more) here. (Robot)

Try to reset angle on the gyro sensor. Click on the block and choose reset.


How many flexible tracks does it take to make a complete oval? I have couple of straight tracks, no curved tracks, so the only option now from me is to buy the new 7499 straight + flexible tracks. Therefore:

How many boxes of 7499 tracks do I need to make a complete oval circuit?

There are reviews but none of the is actually mentioning this. No pictures either.

Each piece of flex track is equivalent to 1/4 piece of regular track. The standard train curves are 1/16th of a circle and thus an oval shape is not possible, however, with 64 pieces of flex track you could make an oval by squashing the circle a bit. 7499 comes with 16 flexible tracks, so you'll need 4 of them to make a regular train circle.

The flex track can be used to make a smaller circle than the regular track:

but as TheBrickBlogger pointed out, the flex track has performance issues and such a tight circle will be difficult for your trains to navigate. The trains tend to fall off if conditions are not perfect. Over Christmas I built a large layout under my Christmas tree and I had to remove all the flex track in order to prevent derailing. Part of that was due to my train design, part of it was due to the fact that the track was sitting on a mix of carpet and hardwood flooring, but part of it was that the train is very sensitive to bumps in the track and flex track exacerbated those issues. Depending on your engine design you might have more or fewer issues. If you are just pushing the train by hand, it will probably be fine.

Also keep in mind that the standard lego train car with fixed (not swiveling) wheels can only navigate a certain minimum radius. Lego puts the wheels 10 studs apart so that they can just barely make it around the fixed curves. If you build the small flex circle, or squash a 64-flex-track circle into an oval, your tightest curves will for sure be too tight for those cars to navigate.

Normally Lego sells curved track in an expansion kit. It seems that right now (May 2015) the only kit is the 7895 Switching track kit. That kit comes with 4 curved rails and so you'd need to buy 4 of them to make a circle. If that's not your ideal choice of parts, then Bricklink would be best. Or, use this as an excuse to buy a whole train kit, which comes with track, train cars, motors, etc. You can never have too much Lego.


How do you eliminate the gap between castle doors? I'm building a MOC castle and want to use a pair of 1x5x7 and 1/2 stockade doors.  My problem: I can't get the doors to fit flush.  Either there's a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap between them, or they overlap.  Are there published instructions from a castle Set which show how to set them flush?  Or, can someone please explain how to solve my problem?  Thanks so much.

I'm assuming that you are referring to this door:

These doors are designed for the hinge to attach from the back of the door and not the side, which might be what is tripping you up. There are ways to get these to line up with the hinge on the side, but the easiest fix is to just have them hinge from the back.

This part is used in many sets including 7036-1 Dwarves' Mine. Here's an example of this part in use from the instructions for that set:


What glass piece is this? Does anyone know what this is?There is no identifier number, just 2-01.

This is part 2060 - Windscreen 4 x 4 x 3 Canopy in Trans Black (Smoke)

Image from Bricklink
The part in that colour is only available in the Star Wars Slave I


I have a vintage set box with the kids on it. Should I continue collecting era appropriate pieces to refill it? I have an early vintage set box (with the boy and girl on the cover). I've been collecting vintage pieces in order to restock the box with the hope the complete vintage set will be desirable on the collectors market. Am I correct in my thinking? Or am I just working on a project with an imagined goal?

Given the quality of LEGO bricks, I would argue that an original box filled with the correct amount of the correct bricks from the same time period as the box is INDISTINGUISHABLE from an opened box containing the original bricks after use, and as such I would recommend you continue your effort. Just make sure that the bricks are indeed from the correct period (i.e. Colors are right, LEGO vs. Pat. Pend. Vs no markings, hollow underside or tube or lattice, etc.). The only way for a collector to be absolutely sure of the authenticity of the box and its content is to buy a factory sealed box, which are extremely rare given the age.


What lego set is this? Possibly a pirate ship? my wife picked up this lego set at a garage sale. The owner claimed it was a ship, perhaps a pirate ship, and that the set was complete. It does have something resembling a bow, and several tall poles, but no sails, which sounds suspiciously non-ship like. The most distinct piece is something like a black bicycle chain / rope ladder on a gear, attached to what looks like a 4-piston engine. There's another smaller chain as well. The entire set is in a beige / brown / black color scheme. Images below - can someone help me identify this?

(I already tried searching for the piece on rebrickable, but could not find it under any description I could think of.)

It's a ship alright.. a heavier than air airship: Wright Flyer.

Quite a fun, if rickety. build.


Is there a difference in the part number for those pieces? The bottom tube of one of the bricks is hollow and the other one isn't. How do I know which version was used when I want to rebuild a set with "original" pieces?

Is there a part number difference?

I also have the same question for plates.

LEGO has changed their moulds, first they added that hole, then they removed it again, and they haven't changed design id, or even (as far as I remember) the element id. Knowing when those changes happened, gives some information (see later).

If you buy bricks on bricklink you can try to ask the seller, but you should be prepared that most sellers will probably answer that the variants are mixed in their stock and that they won't spend time sorting through it to sell you something specific. - I know a guy who was in a similar situation, caring about a(nother) detail that LEGO hadn't changed ids for, who ended up changing the colour of (parts of) his MOC because the period in which the part was made in the "new" colour meant he could be sure that only the good (for his usage) variant had been produced.

So if you care about that hole I think you're pretty much out of luck, but I believe the same set have been sold with both variants in many cases, in some cases you can probably even find single copies that have contained both variants, so I wouldn't care.


What is the official term used for building MOC models? I know that MOC means "my own creation" as noted here.  What I would like to know is do you call the actual act of creating a MOC, "MOC building", or is there another official term?  I wanted to build with my son and called it 'free building' as I did not know any official term, and only just learned the acronym MOC.  I would like to know how to properly say, "Let's go ___________" (build without a plan).

edit: I think where I was confused came from the fact that I've read here and other places that using the term LEGOs is incorrect, that you are supposed to use LEGO bricks and I found that awkward to say so I thought maybe there was also a special term for building official sets versus building a MOC.

By considering a "somehow usual amongst fans" instead of "official" position (see my comment),  I have heard some fans who simply "verbed" the acronym MOC, as in, "I MOC'ed for 3 hours straight yesterday". You could probably do the same with LEGO itself, but that would be frowned upon as LEGO is supposed to be used as an adjective and so on. (When I was a child, my father used "legoter" in French, which was quite clear as to what it meant. I guess you could be "legoing" in English as well).

I'm not saying I do think it's a very good idea, and I haven't even heard that much anyway; so I would tend to agree with Grandpappy and go for a simple "build" (maybe "build something" to imply it's not a set) or even "play" (or more precisely "play with LEGO" if your son happens to sometimes play with something else (I can't fathom why, though)).

So, in short, no real "official" saying, and not even an usual one - especially considering that fans amongst themselves always use LEGO anyway, which means "what did you build recently" is always understood.


Which block manufacturer made this type of person in the 80s I always thought this was LEGO, and played with it in my LEGOs my whole life (got this in the 80s) but found out recently that it is not LEGO. What brand is it? Who made it? He can hold lego tools, etc, and he has holes in his feet and can be stood on lego bricks. I have several friends with this type person who thought it was LEGO as well.

He's made by Tyco as part of their "Super Blocks" range

You can see the guy on the label.


How can I find the analog output of a color sensor? Could anyone provide me with an image of the voltage output of an NXT or EV3 colorsensor.
I would like to have the analog output if it's possible, and not  the digital output.

Depends on what programming software you are using.  The education versions of the NXT and EV3 software having data logging features that may be what you are looking for.

The education versions of NXT and EV3 programming software are available for purchase from www.education.lego.com


Missing parts in a Lego Mindstorms box Could it be that there are parts missing in a LEGO box? I've a new set of LEGO Mindstorms (reference number 31313) and I'm missing the parts

4499858

4211805

Where could I get them?

If you have a brand new set, and a few parts are missing, you should definitely contact LEGO Customer Service, so they can send you the parts you are missing.

New sets with missing parts
We’re really sorry to hear that something was missing from your new LEGO® set. We do our best to make every set perfect and we take it very seriously when a faulty one sneaks through. Don’t worry though, we can send you the parts you need!
Please click “Missing Bricks” on the Bricks & Pieces section of our Customer Service site to order the part you need to finish your set.
If you can’t find what you’re looking for, make sure you include a complete description of the part (the part number provided in the inventory page at the back of the building instructions is useful) along with the set number. Once your part is on its way, we’ll send you a shipping confirmation email.
If you’ve lost some bricks over time, please remember to click “Buy Bricks” instead.
-- LEGO Customer Service FAQ

Just tell them the part numbers you are missing and they should send you the parts for free.


I'd like to build a mechanism to press buttons on a remote control. What is a good basic approach to use? I have a small remote control like device with about 11 buttons. The centers of each button are placed about 1.1cm apart, and each are about 0.7cm in diameter (this means about 0.4cm between the edges).

For various reasons, I'd like to use LEGO Technic to build a mechanism that can press these buttons.

What is a basic approach I can use to build this?

I've only got a few Lego parts on hand to experiment, and not enough to do anything with, so it's mainly been a mental exercise. Before I go out to buy more, I'd really appreciate some direction in what I can do, so I know what to purchase.

The simplest solution I can currently think of is to use a linear actuator to push the buttons down because they are compact, strong, and have a lot of pushing force.

You can either have one actuator per button or use worm gears to finely move the actuator over each button. This would have to move in both the X and Y direction however because the buttons are in a grid, which is a little more complicated but possible.


Where are these minifigures from? In this image there are two army guys guarding:

But where were they bought? I'm curious to know where to get them myself.

Reply to Zhaph's Answer: (I don't have enough reputation.)

I'm well aware the minifigures and weapons are custom made, but I'm more curious where exactly to get the same pieces. I will probably find the weapons on some Brickarms seller (for me: Minifigforlife), but I don't seem to find the same minifigs. Any chance I could get either a seller or these or list of parts with sellers?

The minifigures and the guns will be custom made. There are a number of sites that offer custom printed minifigs in military uniforms, and Brick Arms is a good place to start if you're after specific weapons.

The LEGO Group have a policy of not creating "realistic" weapons, although both fantasy and futuristic are acceptable.


Are there any benefits to using PF motors instead of EV3 ones? Can someone explain to me the key differences between PF motors and EV3 ones? I understand that EV3 motors are 'regulated', presumably meaning that you can control their rotational speed depending on the wheels attached and so on, but apart from that, is there any reason to use PF motors instead (e.g., XL ones)?

One reason why this question comes up is I saw lots of non-EV3 motors used with EV3s in a recent robotics competition I went to. Also, large wheels which you apparently cannot buy anymore (not from Lego, anyway).

The cost of a PF motor is about one third of an EV3 motor.
If there is no need to regulate the motor, using PF motors is a way to save costs. Also PF motors are more compact.
Its possible with lego converter cables to attach them to an EV3, however the NXT to 9V cable is hard to come by. Ofcourse there are DIY solutions (soldering) or third party components.


Mindstorms EV3 PC application won't load Installed Mindstorms EV3 application on MS Windows 7 Home Premium v6.1 (Build 7601: Service Pack 1) and I keep getting the same error message when launching.

A white window pops up with the following:

LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 has detected a problem during application launch. Press OK to close the application and get more information about fixing the problem.

There is only a single "OK" button to press and it then launches the web browser to a lego page link which cannot be found.

I have checked with Lego tech support and they suggested the issue was with MS Silverlight which I un-installed and re-installed along with the EV3 application... all to no avail.

Any ideas?

I had this problem with windows 10.  Installing the latest silverlight from here: https://www.microsoft.com/getsilverlight/Get-Started/Install/Default.aspx did the trick


How can I get my NXT to turn on - all it does is softly click? Recently when I plugged my NXT brick into my PC I clicked on the wrong option and now all it does is clicks when I turn it on? How do I get it back to a usable state?

If you are using NXT-G, the software that comes with the NXT set, then here is what you do:

Get into NXT-G, start a new program.
Select the tools option, and from the drop-down menu, select "Update NXT Firmware..."
Plug your USB cable (one comes with the set) into your NXT. Don't try using bluetooth, as it won't work.
Click the download button on the interface which popped up at the end of step 2.
Don't unplug your NXT, wait until it reboots with its firmware loaded.

Congratulations! You have just brought your NXT out of SAMBA mode!


Virtual LEGO / Technics / Mindstorms simulation environments I know that there are quite a few LEGO CADs floating around, but are there any physically correct simulation environments for models built with LEGO / Technic / Mindstorms parts, that would, for example, allow me to:

simulate how far would a particular moving part would move / rotate / etc, until it collides with other part
simulate gear links (ideally, with tolerances / precision / friction of plastic gears)
get estimates of speeds / torques exerted by specific motors
get estimates of battery power drain

So far I've found Robot Virtual Worlds, but it doesn't seem to allow construction of arbitrary environments and, what's more important, seem to simulate only a few preset robots. Also it seems to be pretty crude in terms of physics simulated. Anything else exists?

Recently I met with TeamSim. Its possibilities are impressing:

you can make own robot via LDD and export it to the program
you cam make own mat (FLL, WRO, sumo mats are already available)
you can program a robot via NXT-G

I have no chance to investigate this program in detail, but I think it's what you want.


Build a narrow archway Is there a way to make a more narrow v-shaped arch as in picture below? I looked at the arches section on Bricklink and they all look like they're too broad.

Couple of Brick, Arch 1 x 3 x 3 pieces produce somewhat similar archway.


Does anyone make a self-driving car? Mapping and localization are the hottest trends in robotics today. And what's more exciting is they can be both implemented with a low-cost robotics kit like LEGO Mindstorms!

I tried to make a self-driving car, after Google's famous car, but I got stuck on the mechanical side of things. I can't figure out how to build a revolving ultrasonic sensor on top of the robot, in order to do mapping and localization.

Any help is highly appreciated!

It sounds like you want to use the Ultrasonic sensor as a revolving radar dish. This is definitely possible. Note that because of the wire, you probably want the sensor to pan back and forth rather than go around in complete circles. Here's an example of what this could look like:

There are building instructions for this project available here:

http://www.nxtprograms.com/radar/


LEGO Trains 12v: Identify This? This is a very popular picture, which almost all LEGO Trains' fans from the 1980s would recognize.

I have the train in the foreground, 7740, but not the 4th car (the red one). Can anyone please clarify that from where it came? Also, what other trains are being shown here?

The two stations are probably the same model (7822), just different builds. Level crossing (on left corner) is 7834.

The red car that you mentioned is Mail Van (7820).

There are a number of other trains in the picture including:

7730 - Goods train (the locomotive doesn't seem to be visible)

7710 - Push-Along Passenger Steam Train (just the cars)

7750 - Steam Engine with Tender (pulling the cars from 7710)

7814 - Crane Wagon

7760 - Diesel Shunter Locomotive

7720 - Diesel Freight Train Set (the car in the bottom right carrying rails to the work crew)

It's not a train, but set 6647 - Highway Repair is also present.


Challenge: Specialized Palm Build I'm trying to design a hand for a MOC using the (not so) new Mixels ball joints, in line with a concept that I've had rattling around in my head for a while. The current palm design I'm trying uses the Technic Gear, 24 Tooth with four of the Pin with Towball in its four holes, on which the longer Mixels ball joint cups are attached. The result is shown in the picture below.

This hand works well for the most part, but the ball joint cups tend to run into each other when splayed out as pictured. This makes poseability a good deal harder in terms of  fine finger movements (gripping seems, thankfully, unaffected). There is also the issue of this hand being two studs thick, due to the towball pins being positioned outward from the palm. I've looked around for alternate builds or pieces that could improve this design, but nothing quite fits. For instance, the Compact Steering Arm is almost perfect, but is missing a fourth ball joint. The old Helicopter Rotor Holder is very nearly too wide for the design, and doesn't seem to allow friction in its connection.

My challenge is this: design a palm with towball attachments for four fingers, either at the four compass points from the center or capable of being placed in these positions, and a central attachment point with either an axle hole to prevent turning at all or a pin hole that can accept a friction-creating pin. The towballs should be far enough apart that the ball joint cups don't run into each other. The towballs must also be no more than two studs apart (measured from the center between towballs on the same edge of the hand), or else the finger design I'm using will not properly close across the palm. A one-stud thickness would also be a plus, but might not be possible with the previous specifications.

Thanks to Caleb Woodman for pioneering the challenge tag mere minutes before I came to the site to ask this. I probably would have spent a lot longer searching the tag list if I hadn't seen that on the front page.

Since you do not give a desired size of the palm, I'd like to propose the following solution, consisting of 1x 6222 - Brick, Round 4 x 4 with 4 Side Pin Holes and Center Axle Hole and 4x 6628 - Technic, Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Towball, arranged like so:

You might need to work on the size of the fingers to make this work with "grip" - but it meets your challenge criteria.

There is also part x872 - Technic, Steering Arm with 4 Ball Joints which would be more compact, however, this part is extremely hard to find (there are no sellers on BrickLink currently).


Can you identify the set for this red LEGO snowmobile? A long time ago I got this pieces of what seems to be a snowmobile but I don't know if it is complete (with the pieces shown in the picture) or what would be the expected1 way of building it.

I have tried several configurations and none of them are completely satisfying. I don't know what was the original intention with the skis, the saws and the rear end.

Could somebody help?

1. Understanding, of course, that with a LEGO you have the freedom to try different configurations, not just the one suggested by instructions.

It's 1710-1: Snowmobile:

The chain saw piece only appears in a few sets with that color.

Here you can see the instructions.


Which set does bag 9 being to? We were recently gifted a lot of LEGO and have an unopened bag in among all the pieces.  We are trying to identify what set it belongs with.  Any one have any idea which set it might be?

It is from set 70404 King's Castle from 2013. Hope that helps.


Why didn't LEGO make a Creative Building Box for Technic parts? LEGO has many great Creative Building Boxes, especially the LEGO 10697: XXXL Box.

Why hasn't LEGO come out with a Creative Building Box that consists of Technic parts?

One answer is that TLG actually has done something similar in the past. They used to produce universal sets that were roughly equivalent to the Creative Box that you're referencing. Here's an example:

These sets all included lots of basic Technic parts and instructions for 3+ models to get you started building.

This is getting into the realm of speculation, but TLG stopped producing the universal sets right before Mindstorms launched, so I would guess that they felt that Mindstorms filled the free creative building niche and didn't want multiple subthemes in that space. The primary Mindstorms sets include a wide variety of multipurpose parts, instructions for multiple models, and encourage free building and exploration rather than just building a single main model. So, a second answer could be that Mindstorms is the Technic equivalent of the current "Bricks and Pieces" line.

I do think that it would be nice to have sets exactly like what you are describing. I grew up with a few of the universal sets, and they were great. If you're looking to get something like this, it's worth noting that there have been some sets like this recently in the Education line, such as Simple Machines (9689), but those tend to be overpriced in my opinion. You're better off just picking up the parts the you want from Bricklink.


Is possible to change firmware of ev3 brick? I bought LEGO 31313 but I would like to change the firmware for education (45544).

1.09H to 1.09E.  Is this possible?

Connect EV3 with USB to computer, have Lego Mindstorm software open

Under Tools -> Select Firmware update and start he update

Brick will restart after firmware is updated


What LEGO set do these bags belong to? Any idea what set this might be? Number on bags say 529R9. I have unopened bags 2-6 and one loose bag of LEGO bricks.

This is 41340: Friendship House

keyparts :

93092: Minifigure, Utensil Basket in Medium Lavender

41539: Plate 8 x 8 in Lime

2584: String Reel 2 x 2 Holder in Black


What set does this large sand green roof piece belong to and what is it? What set does this piece go to and what is it?  Thinking a castle piece?

This part is Tower Roof W. Tiles and because its only made in 3 colors and as the other two available colors are black and lilac, this must be the sand green version. Color in the photo has a more blueish tint to it

This version is only used in two Harry Potter Hogwarts set:

4842-1: Hogwarts Castle

4867-1: Hogwarts


How to remove scratches from LEGO windshield parts? I was storing my windshields from cars with other my bricks. Now they are scratched, nearly not transparent just translucent. Is there a way to sanitize transparent parts from scratches?

Haven't tried this with Lego, but here are the first two things that come to mind.

Novus plastic cleaners (they make 3 solutions for various scratch depths, with Lego I would probably buy the one for the finest scratches) work well on my pinball machine plastics.

About the transparency, I would try the standard headlight cleaning solutions for a car.


What is the best system for lifting things without pistons? I am building a big walker thing. It has a mining laser at the bottom that can be lifted on one half, and the other is attached to the vehicle.

However, I can't seem to find a way, because the hooks attached to the strings come off to easily. The studs are also facing down and I am not using Mindstorms.

I'm looking for a purely LEGO solution.

Screwjacks!

Key components would be Technic, Gear Rack 1 x 4 and Technic, Gear Worm Screw

Application of said parts are left as an exercise for the reader, though since OP says they're not using Technic, this might be a moot answer.


Microsoft Robotics Developer Studio & RCX Support? What is the last version of the Microsoft Robotics Developer Studio that supports the RCX?

The Wikipedia link (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microsoft_Robotics_Developer_Studio) indicates RCX was dropped in the "latest" version but doesn't indicate what version.

I'm not an expert on Robotics Developer Studio, but the phrase indicating that support was dropped in the latest version was added in July 2008, so you'll need to go back to version 1.5 in order to have RCX support.


need help identifying which set these 3 bags are from I ended up with three lego bags but need help identifying them.
mostly light grey and dark grey with some blue and burgundy.
The bags say 2011 lego on recycle symbol.
There are two clear half spheres  as well as a plastic ring 4580665

The two black sprocket wheels and the transparent dome from bag 4 suggest that this set is the Malevolence, but many easily identifiable parts are missing. However, your set also seems to miss at least a few bags (numbers 2 and 3), so it is highly probable that you have a partial set.


NXT brick erratic programming behavior I think I have a defective NXT brick. It has been programmed to move in a direction for 1 second, wait 1 second  and then move in the reverse direction for 1 second. The code downloads on another brick and works fine. I have tried changing the battery pack, changing the motor, changing laptops, changing usb cords, cables, etc. and bricks. The problem has been isolated to the brick. I tried a soft reset and ultimately a hard reset with new firmware download and nothing works. I am truly perplexed. I am using Windows 7 and also tried it on XP. The motor will run in one direction. It starts off slow, speeds up, pauses, and then goes faster. When I turn the brick on, the motor runs briefly before the NXT chirp sound comes up. Yes it is plugged into the correct motor port.

Looks like it might be a defective motor driver chip (though they are pretty tough!). What happens if you connect the motor on another port of the same brick? (with program change to reflect port modification)