How do the various LEGO springs compare? Recently I received set 42107 Ducati Panigale V4 R.

I noticed that this set includes a new spring - part 65151c01 Technic, Shock Absorber 11L with Internal Spring, Dark Bluish Gray Shaft, and Light Bluish Gray Tip - as well as a “regular” spring - part 731c04 Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L - Hard Spring.
Part 65151c01:

Part 731c04:

Why did LEGO create this new spring, and what makes it different from other LEGO springs?

Over the years the LEGO group has made a number of different springs, dampers and suspension components. The most widely known ones are the springs in the 731 series, such as the above mentioned 731c04 (Hard Spring) and its cousins 731c05 (Normal Spring) and 731c06 (Soft Spring), but there are other more specialized springs as well, such as 32181 (which comes in a soft and normal spring version) and even this “cute” little brick-sized spring (part 2695c01 Brick, Modified 1 x 2 x 2 1/3 with Spring Unit (Shock Absorber)):

Let’s take a look at the two springs from set 42107, and compare them with a few of the above mentioned ones, namely 731c05 (Technic Shock Absorber 6.5L with Normal Spring in Light Gray), 731c06 (Technic Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring in Teal) and 32181c04 (Technic, Shock Absorber 10L Damped - Soft Spring in Trans-Clear).
Here are these 5 springs side-by-side:

As you can see, there is some variance in dimensions. From left to right, the springs length in studs is 11, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, and 10 respectively. Note that the three 731-series springs are 1 brick wide, whereas 32181 and 65151 are 2 bricks wide at their widest point, with 65151 being asymmetrical due to the top connection point sitting 1 brick lower than the top, and offset by 1 brick from the main shock absorber shaft.
Now let’s look at how far these springs compress:

It was quite the struggle to get this group picture taken, as the power exerted by each spring was almost too much for the Technic pins holding them in place (and the half-a-stud offset of 731 is a bit of a challenge). As you can see, the compressed length of these shock absorbers is (from left to right) 9 studs, 5.5 studs, 5.5 studs, 5.5 studs and 7 studs.
So there are more differences: while the 731-series only compresses by 1 stud, 65151 compresses by 2 studs, and 32181 even compresses by 3 studs (even though the uncompressed shock is 1 stud shorter than 65151!).
Finally, let’s see how stiff these springs really are. As I am not a physicist, nor a mechanical engineer, my test setup is a bit archaic, but using baking weights I hoped to get an idea of how much weight it takes to fully compress the spring in each shock absorber. Here are some shots of various shocks undergoing testing:
The new absorber from 42107 (part 65151):

One of the 731 series springs (part 731c04 in this case):

As you can see, some shocks needed more weight to fully compress than provide by my wife’s entire collection of baking weights, so I had to resort to more drastic solutions, such as adding dental guard cleaning powder jars.
The results of this test surprised me - it turns out that (at least with the springs I tested) the normal and soft spring versions of 731 both take about 500-600g of weight to fully compress. I had expected the soft spring version of 731 (731c06) to be able to carry less weight than the normal spring version (731c05), but my test shows it was able to carry a bit MORE weight than its Normal spring cousin.
With my methodology (placing too much weight on the springs, and then slowly removing weight until the spring started lifting the contraption up again) both 32181c04 and 731c04 handled up to 1.1kg in weight, while the other springs handled about half that weight.
Net, the front shock absorbers (there are 2 shocks in the front fork) in 42107 have the same combined strength as the single shock absorber in the back, but they have different features - the front absorbers can travel 2 studs while the back absorber only travels 1 stud), and due to its offset connection point the front absorber (65151c01) has a rotational ability that the traditional 731 series shock absorbers miss. Also, as 65151c01 is manufactured with 3 different colors (pearl gold for the upper part, dark bluish gray for the shock and light bluish gray for the lower connection point) it blends better into the build of the Ducati Panigale. So why did LEGO create this part? Likely because it needed to look like the actual bike’s suspension, and no existing and in-production spring had the characteristics and looks needed to make the front assembly look proper.
Finally, a few notes about part 32181. Did you know:

Even though it has a soft spring, it is able to withstand the same weight as the Hard spring version of 731?
It is a damped spring, so where the other springs jump back to their uncompressed state almost instantaneously, 32181c04 (and 32181c05) take about a second to do so.
Out of all the springs I’ve tested, 32181 is the only spring that allows for rotation on its main axis, which allows you to turn the lower connection point out of alignment with the upper connection point. This can be very useful for constructions where the shock absorber needs to connect to 2 parts that are perpendicular to each other.

Here are the full test results, for those who are interested:

Transcription:
         |                                                     | Spring Type
65151c01 | Technic, Shock Absorber 11L with Internal Spring... | Gold
731c04   | Yellow Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L - Hard Spring   | Yellow
731c05   | Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L - Normal Spring        | Grey
731c06   | Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L - Soft Spring          | Teal
32181c04 | Technic, Shock Absorber 10L Damped - Soft Spring    | Clear

         | Length (studs) | Length (cm) | Compressed (studs) | Compressed (cm)
65151c01 | 11             | 8.8         | 9                  | 7.2
731c04   | 6.5            | 5.2         | 5.5                | 4.4
731c05   | 6.5            | 5.2         | 5.5                | 4.4
731c06   | 6.5            | 5.2         | 5.5                | 4.4
32181c04 | 10             | 8           | 7                  | 5.6

         | Platform Weight (g) | Load Weight | Total Weight (g) | Notes
65151c01 | 19.82               | 513         | 533              | Offset connection
731c04   | 19.82               | 1126        | 1146             |
731c05   | 19.82               | 531         | 551              |
731c06   | 19.82               | 643         | 663              |
32181c04 | 19.82               | 1081        | 1101             | Slow release (damped), able to rotate


How much energy do LEGO Technic gears lose to friction? So, I recently watched a video by the Brick Experiment Channel about building a 1 Googol:1 reduction gearbox, which at the time of writing this question, is at #44 on Youtube Trending. At the end of the video, it makes the claim that the final gear will rotate once every 10^93 years. This seems unlikely to me; it seems much more likely that energy losses due to friction along the mass of gears will reduce the amount of energy it's receiving to 0, so it will never spin on it axis, at least as a result of this machine.
However, I'm left wondering where exactly this in the contraption energy is lost, and how much of it is lost to heat and how much is lost to noise. How efficient are LEGO Technic gears, when mounted on their standard X-shaped axles through the holes in standard LEGO Technic bricks?

Nice find. First of all, it is interesting to see the various techniques they use.

The short answer to your question would be: It doesn't matter. Each gear, axle and all other components bend, stretch and absorb energy. This means that even for normal large LEGO Technic sets, such as the 42055, you have to build carefully and avoid too much pressure to reduce friction.

When it comes to Googol, it will take years to move most of the gears above their tolerance of, say, 0.1 mm. This is why they put the motor to the beginning of each section to show that it works in principle.

So, starting the whole thing will increase tension and some eruptive movements of the gears in the middle will follow. But the gears further down the line will never move.


How is the LEGO plastic different from Megablok plastic? It's obvious that LEGO has better quality control, but what about the plastic they use? Megabloks look cheap and the parts seem to vary in color in a side by side comparison next to LEGO brand elements. Why?

The thing with ABS is a bit more than that simple. The general rule is that if you want to have different/better plastic you need to play with small amounts of co-polymers. 99-point-something of your plastic is the main co-polymer, but the 0-point-nothing decides about fine-tuning of properties. A bit more than 10 years ago a friend of mine was working for Bayer (the one from aspirin). He gave me at the time two examples of their R&D. One was extreme shortening of hardening time for polycarbonate of CDs. In some years of development it was shortened from ~1min to some seconds. As the 2nd example - he told me a bit about the LEGO plastic. At the time they had a project for LEGO and its aim was to make plastic for molds better. They have machine that was interlocking bricks for several thousands times measuring all the time the force needed to connect and disconnect two parts. They made them self new parts (some of them were never on the market) and were trying to find additives that make LEGO bricks better (long time durability).

So to make whole this story short: I believe that in 99.9% both firms use the same material (i.e. ABS) however I also believe that LEGO plastic is qualitatively better. I will not argue that it's so much better that the price of any LEGO-set is reasonable. IMHO they are horribly over-priced but at the same time I'm still buying them for my kids. I hope they will last for my grandkids. :-)


Groove dimension of 4216 or 88393? What is the dimension of the groove of LEGO part #4216 or #88393?

According to LDraw, the slot is 8 LDU wide (1 plate, 3.2mm) and 5 LDU deep (quarter module or stud, 2.0mm). Here's the relevant quads from the LDraw file for reference:


Mecha Rail Launchpad Building techniques? Another mecha question, but this time, at least I think, is not so intense as my last question.

I've decided to take my biggest and most ambitious LEGO project yet, a custom MOC of a Pacific Rim style Shatterdome. I plan to house each mech in it's own private holding pen/dock/bay, with each bay having it's own trolley leading to the center of launchpad which houses a central turntable. This turntable being used to redirect the mechs to where they need to go.

Something important to note, the mechs are arranged, in their pens, around the turntable almost in a radial, floral pattern, with the turntable at the center, almost like a sunflower.

The issue that I am facing is that I cannot come up with a design for said turntable. No matter what I try, I just can't get the turntable to integrate nicely with the mech sleds.

Here is a picture of the mech dock. It's a rough idea, but more or less what I am going after -->

Here is also a fabulous picture/sketch done quickly in paint of what I am trying to accomplish -->

As soon in the picture, there is also my attempt to create the turntable in question, but as you can see, it's not going as grand as I had hoped.

Any ideas?

Based on your drawing and description, the closest analogy to your idea would be a railway turntable, where the mech bays would be akin to the roundhouse and the "exit" on your diagram represents the connecting railway to the turntable switching yard.

LEGO models of such structures can be found and analysed for their various building techniques to see which ideas would suit your expectations and situation.

Rails: yes or no? Obviously these models are designed with LEGO railway pieces in mind which might or might not be suitable for your MOC. Using the existing railway system offers a few advantages, like a complete ecosystem for straight and curved rails, wheels, carriages, switching points, couplings, etc. and might even look suitably industrial and heavy-duty. On the other hand their usage seriously limits the possible geometries (wheelbase length, minimal height of the carrier trolley, etc.), defines the look of the model and might provide challenges with the connection of the turntable and the static rails. Another option would be to use carrier trolleys with rubber wheels on a tiled surface to get around some of the above restrictions.

Implementation of the turntable itself The basic component is a circle-shaped, pit-like structure with a radius big enough to fit a carrier upon the rotating bridge above it and with enough depth to house the end supports, the central pivot column and the mechanism used to motorize it if needed. The central pivot and the end supports must be strong enough to hold the combined weight of a carrier and a mech on any point along the tracks on the turntable, which would mean either really sturdy supports or a carrier long enough to distribute its weight among multiple supports and the ground around the structure.

SIDE CUTAWAY VIEW OF THE PROPOSED STRUCTURE
                                        MAGNIFIED VIEW OF
 mmmmmm      mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm       THE DRIVING MECHANISM
 oo==oo      o==o   o==o   o==o    /   ----------  -------
 ------ ----------------- ------  /         d|b3   MMMMM##
 ######  T      A      T*~MM#### <           *~~~~~MMMMM##
 ######  !      H      !  ######  \                MMMMM##
 ########^#############^########   \               #######

Legend:
# "Solid" ground
- Rail for the mecha carrier trolley
o Wheels of the carrier
= Structure of the carrier
m Feet of the mecha, or upper structure connecting multiple carriers
T End support structures
! Support structures with tiny wheels on their bottom parts
^ Suitable rolling surface for the end support wheels (rails or tiled surface)
A Central axis pillar
H Central pillar structure
M Motor for driving the ring
3 The inner gear rack of a Bucket Wheel Excavator ring
d|b A gear with a vertical axis, meshing with the gear rack ("3")
* A mechanism for turning a horizontally rotating axle into a vertically rotating one
  (like two bevel gears or a gear and a worm gear)
~ Horizontal axle

End supports and their wheels The end supports must travel along the bottom edge of the pit, supporting a great portion of the carrier and the mech, while losing not too much energy to friction. This calls for wheels, but even here we have many options:

You can certainly use generic railroad tracks if the dimensions permit it (the radius of the pit is just a few studs larger than the outer curve radius of the LEGO rail pieces)
For smaller dimensions the narrow gauge rail tracks might be used
The newer roller coaster pieces could be an alternative if a suitable wheel setup can be constructed either from scratch, or built around the existing rollercoaster cars
At least one example I have seen uses monorail tracks, if you have those, feel free to use them this way
Tiles and road wheels are certainly the most flexible option regarding the possible diameters but they tend to have a lot of resistance compared to non-flexible wheels on rails
Some Technic sets, like the 42054 Claas Xerion tractor, the 42082 Offroad Crane or the 42055 Bucket Wheel Excavator for example feature such turntable solutions that can be used as inspiration

Motorization You haven't mentioned if you'd like to use a motor to drive the turntable, but if yes, then you have a few options here as well:

Train engine on rails as the "feet" of the end support(s)
Motor housed in the end support(s) propelling against the wall of the pit
Motor housed in the central column
Motor housed in the wall of the pit propelling the turntable by its edge

The first two options require either a battery and control system built into the moving parts of the turntable itself, or wires that can feed the built-in motors from a static battery - but this option must be used with limiters or the wires might get tangled or snap. The third needs extensive gearing down to be able to handle the load and all losses without overstraining the motor. The last option avoids these problems but requires the turntable to be a complete ring with an interface suitable for propulsion (either a smooth circle that can be driven via friction from multiple rubber wheels, or a circular gear rack - The specialised parts from the Bucket Wheel Excavator or the 4481 Hailfire Droid wheels would be my first idea).

If you have any more questions, either in general or regarding a specific problem, feel free to ask - I'd love to see your project come to fruition :)


Which Lego board games come with minifigures instead of microfigures? Of all the LEGO board games that have been produced so far, which ones come with minifigures instead of microfigures?

Various minifigures are in included in:

LEGO Chess Sets:

Castle - 24 minifigures
Giant Fantasy Era - 33 minifigures
Knight's Kingdom - 24 minifigures
Pirates - 24 minifigures
Vikings - 24 minifigures

LEGO Tic-Tac-Toe Sets:

Castle - 10 minifigures
Police - 10 minifigures
Pirates - 10 minifigures

Other LEGO Games:

Ludo (a variant of parcheesi) - 16 minifigures
Creationary - 1 minifigure
Time Cruisers Game - 5
minifigures
Creator Board Game Deluxe - 4 minifigures
Constructionary (a variant of charades) - 2 minifigures
Knight's Kingdom the Game (never released in English) - 5 minifigures


Need help identifying or locating pieces - 4-stud T-shaped plates I'm trying to find plates to build a baseball mascot with my kids. I can't find the actual set anywhere (it's actually a FOCO BRXLZ brand set), so I am trying to piecemeal the set. I'm not concerned with it being Lego brand, so long as the pieces will all work together to create the end product.
I've attached a picture from the instructions showing what I need in quantity and color. These are the only plates I can't find on the Lego Pick a Brick shop:

I can't speak for other brands, but I'm sure that there is no such LEGO element.
This would be a plate, but the Bricklink category has nothing exactly like this design.
The closest would be the Plate 2 x 2 Corner or Plate 3 x 3 Cross, but the first requires an additional plate, which could prove unfeasible due to the missing structural bonds, and the latter has an extra plate (which could be cut away if needed, even though that would be considered a bad choice by many).

Edit
As jpa noted below, if these parts should serve as structural support, the required strength could be achieved by attaching a Plate 1 X 3 and a Plate 1 X 1 together by their sides. These LEGO bricks are made of ABS, therefore the suitable binding agents would be acetone, cyanoacrylate (superglue), or epoxy.


Is this a real Duplo Train Base or fake? I'm new to LEGO, so forgive me if this is a simple question. I purchased a lot of 30 Duplo Train Base from eBay.

Below is the picture that accompanied the listing. There is a disclaimer stating: (Stock Pictures colors of trains may be different)

What I received aside from the 20 that fit the Duplo Train Base plus 10 of these train bases:

The LEGO DUPLO Creative Suitcase 10565 shows the train base with a pincher tip and not a closed loop:

Not sure, what the other 10 train bases I received are. The 10 cars do seem to say DUPLO inside the circle if I look closely.

These 10 are Duplo Vehicle Car Base 2 x 6 with Hitches and Red Wheels (Old)' (4883cx2) and came in Red, Blue and Yellow


Childhood lego car ID, 1980s early 90s I'm looking to ID 2 sets I had as a kid,

One was a rally car, it was white with a red base, the wheel centres were red. The driver I think was white upper, red or white lower and with a red helmet and white body with stripe from one side to the other of his upper body. I think the car roof had a sun roof, I think the windows and sun roof were blue tint?

The other was a yellow 4wd with a trailer, which I think had a blue motorbike. From memory the 4wd had a black base, the wheels possibly had white centres.

I guess the second set you describe is 6677 Motocross racing (from 1986):


Are there any sets without a lot of fluff? I'm an adult but have come to fall back in love with LEGO again after building the LEGO Apollo Rocket kit.
I wanted to buy a large set of just various LEGO bricks to build neat things. But what I am finding is a lot of the basic sets are filled with fluff pieces. Things like little men and accents and things like that. Is there a way to buy just a box of classic pieces like when I was a kid?

While nearly all sets these days to include a certain number of parts that you may be referring to as "fluff", the Classic line has the highest ratio of more typical bricks and plates that you may be used to and has a number of sets at quite a few price points that may be useful to you and are available both direct from LEGO and from many retailers.
A note of caution over your classification of those "fluff" pieces though: You may find if you progress to more advanced building techniques that many of those pieces you currently disdain are absolutely indispensable to accomplish some very interesting effects that are simply not possible with standard bricks and plates. Don't discount the utility of a part simply because you may not be familiar with their usefulness or that they may not be immediately related to your current project. A fairly common term in the community is NPU which stands for New (or sometimes Novel) Parts Usage and stems from people being very creative with parts that might not immediately seem to have any other purpose than their basic form might suggest, and has led to very interesting and quite stunning results.


When did LEGO stop producing Technic action figures? I recently got interested in LEGO Technic again. The last set I own is maybe 15 years old, so my knowledge is a little bit outdated.
Back then some of the Technic sets had action figures included, like the (1990) 8830 Rally 6-Wheeler:

And if I remember correctly they used seats for those figures in many Technic sets.
Both, seats and figures, seem to have disappeared from recent sets.

When (and why) did LEGO discontinue making the LEGO Technic action figures?

The Technic minifigures last from 1986 to the year 2000. As far as I'm aware LEGO haven't released a statement on why the figures were removed. Minifigures are expensive and using them limits Technic sets to a certain scale.

Having a dynamic sense of scale allowed Lego to create the £9.99 ($10.90) 8045 and the £61.65 ($89.99) 8295, two variations of the same model. One basic and affordable, the other focusing on realism.


Need help identifying LEGO sets from bags and more If its possible to please help me identify these, I would great appreciate it. I know some are from Star Wars, but I have no idea what the one with the green torso is from (that bag also has a grey spiked helmet in it if that helps).

There is also a LOT more that I got from thrift stores in plastic tubs and if I can get some help with these bags (and if you guys are up for it) I'd love help deciphering them as well.

Based on Reddish Brown Torso Space Police 3 Spiked Armor Pattern / Sand Green Arms / Sand Green Hands you're dealing with set 5979 Max Security transport.


NXT motors not moving? I've been looking around the net for a solution to this problem, to no avail.

After taking my NXT v1 out of storage, I tried using a motor, but it sortof just, moves back and forth once, then 'brakes' and resists any movement.
I did forget to take the batteries out when I stored it, and it was stored for about 4 months.
I don't think its the motor, as all three, in all three ports and in different combinations do the same thing. Everything else is as normal on the NXT, even the rotation sensor measurements. Its only applying power to the motors that causes problems.

Just as a side note, if I try to add motors, it interferes with my program. One example is when I make a program with a Forward 5 block on the NXT, it stays on that block forever, with or without the motor connected.
Another example is in a NXT-G program, it does the same thing, sticks on the motor command.

I will call tech support as a last option, I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea what could be wrong, and any way to fix it.
Thanks.

To work properly, the Forward 5 block on the NXT as well as the Move block of NXT-G require that TWO motors be connected on ports B and C. That's probably the problem you see... To test a single motor, there is the motor block.


Where I can find the pieces needed in a set? I own this set, LEGO® Kingdoms King's Castle 7946.

One day I let my wife's best friend's kids play with it.

(Not the best idea in the world but they had a blast!)

Needless to say, the castle ended up being torn to pieces pretty much.

It has sat in a box for a few months now and I really want to dig it back up for a rebuild.

The problem I have now is I don't know every piece I need.

I'm sure some of the pieces have been lost but I have a massive box of extra pieces. Is there a website anywhere that contains the piece count of a set and what pieces are included in the set?

Any ideas on what I can do? or do I have to try my best to rebuild it?

If you don't physically have the instructions, you can look up the set ID on LEGO's Customer Services page dedicated to providing building instructions.

The inventory list is usually found right after the final building step. For #7946 the parts list can be found on pages 74-75.

If for whatever reason you cannot access the instructions from the LEGO site, perhaps the file has been removed or you're unable to view PDF files you can still find a part list on sites like Bricklink and Brickset (see parts tab).


I need a block that can combine a movement program with NXTbee radio I am a student. I am working on a science project using LEGO Mindstorms robots enhanced with NXTbees creating a mesh network.

My engineering mentor has me using LabVIEW. I am trying to find a block that can combine a movement program (senses a block in the robot path, stops, then change direction) with NXTbee radio.

I want the NXTbee to override the Bluetooth in the LEGO Mindstorms program. I have tried a number of avenues seeking help, but they haven't worked out.  Can anyone help?

There is a LabVIEW block for the NXTBee. For example, here is a tutorial from the manufacturer.


Why is LEGO kit name not on the box or booklet? Curious to know why LEGO set boxes and instruction booklets carry a number and age recommendation (Eg 7-12 41317), but not any marketing name (Sunshine Catamaran)?

To get the name, I need to visit an online store selling the kit to get the actual name of it. Not sure if this is just an Australian marketing practise but curious as to why this is so - I find it frustrating.

Most-likely it has to do with localization.

If they printed the names of sets on instructions, they would have to print a different instruction booklet for each language the set name is translated into, in addition to translating the boxes (and possibly the stickers).

You will notice that instruction manuals are usually free of any written instructions, which would need to be translated, and instead opt for imagery when possible. If they do have substantial text, it is usually translated into a number of languages, like the game rules in the back of the manuals for the large Orient Expedition sets had.

Of course, simple things like "Click" get a pass on translation.

Sets whose name would not change if localized sometimes have names printed on their instructions though.


Determining what set I have from a bag of lego pieces? I have a bag of lego pieces that make a set of something but I don't have a box or instructions.  Is there anyway to determine what set it is so I can download/buy an instruction sheet for it...or at least know what I am building?

I found a part piece with a number on it and found out what it was...Spiderman's doc ock ambush.

I see you already found the answer, but in general, you can use Rebrickable. After registering, in the My RB menu you can upload the parts you have and the site will tell you which sets you can build out of them. It will even show partial matches, listing the bricks you still need to build them.


Can I use the old 4.5V and 12V blue/gray era rails with newer trains? I have a bunch of old 12v track.

I am looking to get my son into LEGO, but I am thinking of getting the remote set so we can expand it some more.

My question is, can I connect the new track to the old somehow, and do the new trains fit the old track?

You can absolutely run RC and PF trains on 12V track. You can leave out the center conducting rail since it won't be delivering any power to the train, unless you are planning to run both 12V and remote trains.

The main LEGO train sets have all used the same rail gauge, which is the main thing that matters.

If you'd like to use both your 12V track and the new RC track that you get, they can be joined together in various ways. Here's an example from a LUGNET thread:

There are also a few places where you can get third party adapters if you'd prefer to go that route.


Why do sellers do lots of 'random' bricks? I've often seen sellers of large lots split them up into (usually 100) piles of 'random' bricks to be sold that way - even if they got the lot in a more organised manner.

To me, personally, randomised lots like these are entirely unattractive and feel a bit deceptive (as pictures included usually depict the WHOLE lot).

What is the buyers/sellers incentive to sell LEGOs like this?

I think their rationale is simple: selling 10 smaller lots is bringing them more money than selling it all in one big lot. It might also be a way to mask the fact that there are very few good/interesting pieces in the lot; by splitting it up but using the full lot picture every purchaser hopes they might get the good pieces. Finally, there could be some deception going on ... if you see a picture with a lot of run-of-the-mill parts and some rare/expensive ones, and you buy the whole lot, you expect to get those pieces. If you buy a part of the lot, you have no way to validate that those special pieces were ever included (they could have gone to one of the other purchasers, or, and this is where the deception comes in, they might have never been included).

Edit: there might also be a more practical reason: cutting the lot up into certain sizes might allow the seller to ship using a favorable shipping rate (e.g. First Class Package in the US) versus a more expensive shipping method for the entire lot.


What is the model/year of a white and yellow airplane with a sticker "96" on the wing? I found this airplane in a bag at Goodwill, but not sure what set it's from. It looks complete and the landing gear pulls down.
Any idea what year or set this is from?

It is 42044-1: Display Team Jet from 2016.


New ways of connecting levels of multi-story modular buildings Compare these two instructions from the Green Grocers and Pet Shop modular building and you may notice (other than the background colour) that the top of the walls of the buildings are both arranged differently:

Tiles are raised at certain lengths of the wall to ensure the floor above will stay in place.

The floor above is secure using the relatively new 92593 modified plate. The new plates occasionally 'lock' into the floor above when it's removed, leaving an impression of where the plate once was. However few pieces are required.

I'm building a multi-story police station with a large area (32X62) and I'm looking for a suitable way of connecting floors with as few bricks as possible.

Two ideas I can think of, which are not using "tiles" as such, but similarly flat surfaces:

Technic beams - holes attached to studs of the lower part of the building, and in some holes (which have to be above tiles), pegs/axles for the upper part to fit into.
1x1 "cheese" slopes - and inverted on the upper part (or use regular inverted 33° slopes), which makes the upper part fit in the lower as if in a funnel. (Not very different from using tiles)


Duplo Locomotive: What is this inner part used for? Background

I was forced to completely disassemble a duplo locomotive. My son played with it in a sand box and, guess what, it was not working anymore. I used a small brush to clean every single part (mainly axis and gears). I eventually managed to get rid of all the sand. Then I reassembled the locomotive.

Questions

I ended up with 2 small parts I could not figure out where to put them, neither what they are used for. Everything seem to work without these 2 parts - my son is happy again. These are curved parts, with a spring attached to it.
They are on left part of this picture:

So what are these 2 parts used for, and where should I put them ?

They are protective locks. If something (let’s say kids hair, or part of their clothes) gets stuck and dragged inside the wheel, these tiny blocks will lock the wheels and make sure it doesn’t keep dragging whatever is stuck. As soon as you pull the stuck part back, the springs unlock.


Which is faster: M motor or XL motor? I understand that the M motor has an adequate amount of speed, and the XL motor is best known for its torque. But is the XL motor really faster than the M motor? Or is it the other way around? I am asking this question because I recently saw the L motor, and one reviewer said "It has the speed of the M motor but the torque of an XL motor." I am assuming this means that the M motor is faster...?

XL (8882):

It delivers a maximum torque of 90,4 mNm (600 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 220 rotations per minute.

L (88003):

It delivers a maximum torque of 45,4 mNm (450 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 380 rotations per minute.

M (8883):

It delivers a maximum torque of 40 mNm (300 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 380 rotations per minute.


Pearl gold vs flat dark gold I've ordered 4 "pearl gold" pieces of part 92690 on BrickLink. Unfortunately, the seller had to adjust the order as he only had 3 such pieces, he proposed adding two more in "flat dark gold" in exchange, which I agreed to.

However, searching the BrickLink database, no such piece exists in flat dark gold in any set (the seller acknowledged that and he has no other explanation).

These are the pieces (pearl gold on the left, flat dark gold on the right):

My question: What is the origin of the flat dark gold pieces? Is this discoloring because of age? Or is the BrickLink database in error? Note that, at the time of writing this, 70 sellers are offering this piece in flat dark gold.

There has been a slight change to the Pearl Gold/Warm Gold color recently that might explain the difference in color between those pieces. See this article on Reddit. Perhaps the right two “Flat Dark Gold” pieces are the newer recolor of Pearl Gold? I recall Jang from JangBricks talking about this as well in his videos.

Here is the picture from the Reddit article showing the new Pearl Gold on the top, and the old on the bottom.


Why are these bricks slightly shorter than normal? I have two red 1×6 bricks that are slightly shorter than normal and also a bit deformed. For comparison, I here show them together with regular 1×6 bricks (the regular brick is the top one of each pair):

These bricks are shorter to the extent that considerable force is needed to connect them to regular bricks (note how much they are worn down).
I suspect that they are rather old and made from some different material, however, I have many older bricks which connect considerably better to modern standard bricks.

Thus I wonder and ask: What could be the deal with those bricks? They are part of a huge connection containing second-hand bricks, so I cannot say much about their origin, except that they are from the last century.

For starters, having that as a production error is completely impossible, given the industrial precision of our beloved bricks.  The LEGO group has been incredibly careful for decades about the tolerance of their bricks' dimensions:

You can read this WIRED article where the author compares old and new bricks' dimensions (TL;DR: they have been making really precise bricks for decades).
Their current standard for tolerance was 10 micrometers in 2009 - see page 20 of official LEGO documentation.

I think we can discard that option.

As @SlicksterTheBrickster said in his answer, the shorter bricks seem warped.  The most plausible explanation is that extreme heat made the ABS plastic bend and get a little thicker on the walls or a little taller (floor to studs distance).  ABS is a thermoplastic polymer (as opposed to a thermosetting one), meaning that it cannot withstand intense heat and it will melt.  As an example, it's normal to wash and disinfect bricks with water at 40°C, but if you increase that to maybe 60°C or 70°C the plastic will start getting "plastic" (i.e. moldable). ABS is an amorphous material, meaning that it doesn't have a proper melting point and it transitions slowly (like glass). I would say that you can get the effect that you show by building a model and leaving it e.g. in a closed car under very hot sun with some pressure on the sides or strong torsion, or maybe close to a stove.  The bricks will slightly bend and/or deform after the episode.

If you are curious, get a caliper and measure both bricks' height and width at several points all along their length, and do the same with the walls' width.  I'm almost certain that the shorter one will have a significant variation in those values.  If your question is "But where did that material go?", it went into slightly swelling the walls.


Which move block to use with Gyro? We would like to make a series Gyro drive blocks. As a general rule what would be the benefits and drawbacks from using the move tank and move steer blocks?

My basic design is to read the gyro and compute the error from the desired direction the multiply the error by a gain. This gain would be the direction for the move steer block. For the move tank we subtract the error from one motor and add the error to the other motor.

Another option would be to only change the motor power on one side for the tank steer.

My plan is to test all three types but I would like to hear comments from those of you with more experience.

Here are some gyro issues you still have to contend with.

Lag. The gyro reading lags behind the actual movement. If, for example, you are spinning and waiting for a reading of 90 degrees before stopping the movement, you will be beyond 90 degrees after you stop, unless you are moving very slowly.
Accuracy. They gyro only reads in increments of 1 degree and it's also not terribly accurate (repeatable).
"Offset". As your gyro algorithm does it's processing, the steering correction will restore the heading, but you may no longer be on the same linear path. Let's say your robot has a left bias. As it turns off course to the left and the gyro algorithm corrects back to the right, you may be back on the correct heading, but your path is now slightly to the left of where you started. You will zig-zag like this all the way there.

If you can deal with those issues, your algorithm idea is solid. But you may find that Move Steer and Move Tank are more accurate. It really depends on the situation.

I have written blocks that use the gyro to set the heading for movement, but not for in-place turns. In-place turns are made very difficult by the lag issue unless you are willing to do all your turns at the same speed and use a simple offset value to compensate (i.e., stop motors at 86 degrees, usually comes to rest at 90).

With my "Move Gyro" block, I don't even need to execute an explicit turn motion, I can say "move 10  inches at heading of 0 degrees, then 10 inches at heading 90 degrees, the gyro algorithm makes the turn automatically (and rather quickly) as it moves forward. It will be close, but the result will not be exactly 10 inches in both directions.

EDIT

After re-reading your question, I may be a little off the mark, or just not clear on what you are asking. Your use of Move-Steer or Move-Tank depends on what you are trying to do.

To turn without driving forward, you could use either Move-Tank or Move-Steer until you reach your desired gyro angle. Move-Tank should pivot mostly in-place around the midpoint between the drive wheels. A Move-Steer turn without driving forward would require maximum turning input which should keep one wheel un-powered. This is called a pivot turn and is probably better executed by operating the 2 motors independently. Turn one motor off and apply the brake, then power the other motor until your desired turn is made. You can probably do this just as accurately without the gyro. In a pivot turn, one wheel moves along an arc. The length of this arc for a given turn angle can be calculated based on the distance between your drive wheels (wheel track) and the circumference of your wheels. Thus, lock one motor, drive the other motor the necessary distance to travel along the arc. If you aren't into geometry, post a new question for the math on that.

To drive forward along a gyro heading, your algorithm idea is a good one, except for my point in item 3 above. But if your robot tracks well, that offset should be minor.


Has anyone made their own custom LEGO bricks? As I've just learned, LEGO bricks are made from ABS plastics.

I wonder if it would be possible to make some simple molds at home, get some ABS pellets, melt them up and make your own custom bricks? Novelty shapes or colours, perhaps?

Has anyone tried this, did it work?

People with 3d printers have made their own LEGO bricks. The plastic used is ABS.

Blog post

Interestingly, 3d printers can be constructed out of LEGO parts - you could have it self replicating!

Of course, you would need a very expensive and high quality printer to make good pieces. Cheaper ones can only make hollow bottoms and the banding from manufacture is highly visible.


Duplo 10874 engine lacks sound without app I have inherited this set which works perfectly apart from the fact that there is no sound from the engine. It clearly reads all the colours on the action bricks because, when used with the app, the little driver on the app blows the whistle and, through the app, I can hear the brakes and the water filling. This can't be heard without the app. Also, the noise on pushing the little green button to start up makes no sound although I believe it's supposed to. We've had it get taken apart to check but can't see anything wrong.
Has anyone else had this problem? Any help much appreciated.

I suggest you contact LEGO support. The set is recent enough for them to have spare parts. They'll happily replace the Push & Go component if you can demonstrate the part is defective and you own the set. To prove you own the set you'll need a code in the instruction booklet.


Does anyone know what these gold and dark green pieces make? I have these LEGO pieces and I don't know what they go to.

Looks like Set #70503 - The Golden Dragon.

I looked up this unique modified 2x2 brick to get a short list
of possible sets.

Visually, looked at the yellow/gold color scheme of the pieces in the
bags to get a sense of the what to exclude when scrolling down said
short list.
Looked for crazy looking pieces from the bag to compare within the
set.

Like this piece here, part #64275 - Projectile Launcher, Bionicle Thornax
Launcher Half (Glatorian), Liftarm End 1 x 8.

and double confirmed the choice with part #54821 - Bionicle Zamor
Sphere (Ball).

Just gotta be the Goldy D.


9398 problem with the front wheels I've just finished 9398 4x4 Crawler. The rear motor works properly, but the front motor doesn't: The wheels seem to be locked, although they spin freely when I turn them by hand.
What could be the problem?

Check if Cross Block 90° that is placed in step 53 of instruction book 1 is in the correct orientation with the round hole placed over the motor axle.

Mounting it the other way will prevent rotation of the motor.


Identify age of parts from yard sale I purchased a box of LEGO bricks from a yard sale. Some of the 1x6 bricks are hollow with 2 small slants in them. Other 4x6 plates are very thin with square holes in the bottom. It also came with windows with half moon shaped holes in the bottom. Lastly white blocks with clear inserts in the bottom. Does anyone know how old these are?

1 x 6 Bricks

According to BrickLink, 1 x 6 bricks like the ones you describe were made between 1955 and 1969.

4 x 6 Plates

According to BrickLink, there were no 4 x 6 plates with square holes (so-called waffle-bottom plates.) There were, however, 4 x 8's made between 1954 and 1971.

Windows

Don't know...

White Blocks with Clear Inserts

The white blocks with clear inserts could be wheel holders, made between 1959 and 1992:

Or some kind of light brick:

It sounds as if your bricks are relatively old, probably made sometime in the 60s. If some of them look a little distorted and don't grip very well, they're probably made of Cellulose Acetate rather than ABS, which would fit with the dates.

To provide any degree of accuracy, however, we really need more information, preferably photos. Also, it might help to know what part of the world you're from, as back in the day there were sometimes different sets for different markets.


Can you identify these parts? Sliding brick and plate with a groove Please help me identify these LEGO parts - I'm trying to build them.

The plate is probably a Plate 1X8 With Rail or maybe Plate 1X2 With Slide

The Brick is a Sliding Piece 1X4


BricxCC not seeing Serial Tower in Windows 10 Same problem with both the native 9-pin serial port and with a USB to 9-pin Serial adapter.  Using Lego's original cable.

Start BricxCC Version 3.3 (Build 3.3.8.10).  It asks for the connection method.
Choose any option for the Port (I've tried them all with the same results), and RCX or RCX2 for the Brick Type.  Standard Firmware.
(Actually, there isn't any firmware in the brick yet.  Need to do that as soon as it connects, but I can't even get that far.)
Click OK.  Communication fails immediately.  "No connection to the programmable brick.  Certain options will be unavailable."
Acknowledge the message.  Click "Find Brick", and repeat from #2.

A google search turned up a note about using a terminal emulator to talk to the tower directly.  2400baud, no handshaking, should echo characters in the terminal, and the green activity light should make sense.  That DOES work, for both the native port and the USB to serial adapter.
Using https://sourceforge.net/projects/realterm/ on Windows 10, fully up-to-date as of this writing.

When I close the native port, the green light comes on and stays on, and remains on while BricxCC tries to connect.  It turns off when I reopen the port in the terminal emulator.
When I close the USB adapter, the green light turns off, and remains off while BricxCC tries to connect.  It stays off when I reopen the port in the terminal emulator, except to indicate activity as expected.

I tried running BricxCC in Compatibility mode for Windows 98/ME, and then for Windows XP (Service Pack 2 & 3).  Same result.

Any ideas?

A bit more fumbling around led me to an actual installer:
http://bricxcc.sourceforge.net/test_releases

I was hesitant to use that because of the word "test", but in fact that's what's needed to work at all.  Download bricxcc_setup_33810_20130220.exe from there and run it, and it "just works".

The situation above came from a zipped archive, not the installer.  Having rejected the "test" version, I then found the archive, unzipped it, and tried to use it.  Apparently, it was missing something that the installer includes.  Comparing the installed program directory to the unzipped one definitely confirms this!


What techniques can be used for laying plates at 45° angle? I've seen a number of techniques for laying individual elements at 45° angles, but I need a consistent method for laying down larger plates at 45 degrees while maintaining close contact with the base plate layer below it.

What techniques are available to achieve this?

Hinges can work, I have used this technique before, if you sandwich the hinges between two plates you get 45 degree 'bricks' that are quite solid.

In most cases, tiles and plates in the right place will keep sufficient contact with the base plate to have a stable model.


What minifigure is this? Please help identify which minifigure this is. My son wants to know which set it has come from. Can someone help us?

Head: Is Part #3626cpb0704, which appears in any of these 24 sets.

Torso: Is from Set #76007-1 Iron Man: Malibu Mansion Attack. Specifically, the "Extremis Soldier" minifig chest piece.


Does the value of LEGO increase over a period of time? I have a couple of exclusive LEGO sets such as the 50th Anniversary set, 10184 Town Plan, as well as the LEGO Harry Potter 10217 Diagon Alley set. I was wondering if these will increase in value into the future, and if certain LEGO sets increase in value more than others?

Generally speaking, yes. But there are many factors that determine how a given set will be priced over the years. Sets that have rare, more sought after pieces tend to cost more (think monorails), so if you'd happen to have a MISB monorail set you'd be rich. On the other hand, TLG can inadvertently mess with any investment plan by launching sets with similar themes or pieces, making your collection worth just as much as new sets.

Condition is also a key factor, MISB sets are on an entirely different level than opened, used, scratched, faded sets with missing pieces.

For more information i'd suggest looking at BrickPicker. There you can see that while the Diagon Alley has been slowly but steadily gaining value, the Town plan has basically stagnated. This could be caused by the value of a Harry Potter set for collectors, the unique pieces in that set, or any other factors.

There are also other questions in this topic here:

How can I find the value of a LEGO set over several years?
Historically, what types of sets have proven to be a great investment?
How can you estimate the value of a LEGO collection?


Getting started with Mindstorms and/or Technic I'm looking into getting started with LEGO.
Can you briefly describe the difference between Technic and Mindstorms? I've read that the parts and compatible, so I suppose it's the functions that differ. Am I correct to assume that Mindstorms is more about using sensors and programming your robot so it can act on its own, while Technic needs to be (remotely) controlled?
I'm on a tight budget so I can't just buy anything I want. Assume I can afford around €50-100 a month and I am starting with €150. Also assume I have equal interest in the above mentioned principles about Technic and Mindstorms (if correct). Can you recommend how to get started with either or both?
I see the latest Mindstorms set - EV3 - is around €250. Would it be better to wait a bit and get it, or just get some Technic sets now, and get it later (once my collection is bigger)? Is it viable to just get the control parts and not the whole Mindstorms set? I suppose getting a bigger set is better than getting several small ones.
I'm open to specific sets recommendations, or just general advice - I don't mind spending time browsing and reading on sets.

In my opinion, Mindstorms is a subset of the Technic line up (Like how Police is a subset of Lego City). So most of the parts are interchangeable. The only part incompatibility issue you will come across is the electronics.

I would say go with Technic first. Learning how to build studless and basic Lego mechanisms will be more useful than robotics (initially). Buy the bigger sets as they have more parts and lower price per part (typically).

50-100 quid a month is quite healthy. Once established, Lego has a pretty low maintenance cost (If you don't want every set). You will find Brick Owl and Brick Link a good source of specific parts.

I suggest a browse of http://sariel.pl/ and http://www.technicbricks.com/ to get some ideas on what is possible.


What RGB-values do I get from the colorsensor I have the extra colorsensorblock used by mindcuber - ColorSensorRGB - installed. Now I'm trying to use it in my own projct. But what values does it produce?

It seems like it has a min-value of 0 (as expected), but some testing gave me a max-value of 395 (I was expecting 255).

What is the range of values delivered?

The returned values are the reflected light intensities for each of the three LED colors (red/green/blue).

The scale is actually 0-1023. Basically, this is the raw value returned by a 10-bit analog to digital converter in the color sensor (2 ^ 10 = 1024).

The LEDs themselves may not put out enough light that you could ever reach the maximum value, so you will have to calibrate the sensor accordingly. For example, your calibration could consist of holding the sensor close to a white sheet of paper and finding the maximum value for each color, then use those maximum values to normalize the actual sensor values to a scale of 0 to 100%.


How to restore minifig faces Vintage minifig heads (from the 80s, 90s with the classic smiley) often lose their eyes and mouths after years of play. The paint wears off.

How do you best restore the heads?

If you have a steady hand you can use hobby paint or a Sharpie, let it dry, then put on a clear-coat for protection. But those heads with the classic smiley faces are so cheap on BrickLink, you could just replace them. Here are the Catalog listings for the original Classic Smiley on BrickLink along with the dates of production:

Hollow stud original from 1978-2013: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3626bp01

Solid stud from 1991: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3626ap01

Stud recessed from 2009-2014: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3626cp01


Suspension bridge building techniques I am working on a suspension bridge with my sons and have encountered two problems.

Our technique:

8x6 plates for the roadway
1x8 bricks (with side-holes) underneath each side of the roadway to support the roadway, connect the plates, and link the Technic beams to the suspension rope.
Technic beams of varying lengths (2- to 9-studs) which hang from the suspension rope.
Twine, as the suspension rope, to connect the technic beams to the bases at either end of the bridge.

Our Dimensions:

6-studs wide
69 studs long.

Our problems:

The twine works, but is ugly and doesn't seem like proper Lego technique - is
there a more appropriate (i.e., LEGO-approved) material?
The Technic beams all lean as if pointing towards the center of a sphere; I
added a second 1x2 brick (with hole in the side) which allowed me to
pin the Technic beam in place but that seems bulky and is very
inelegant.  How do I construct a non-leaning, but more elegant solution?
I suppose that it would also be helpful to know whether there is a ratio for tower-height-to length that is most appropriate.

I've used white nylon rope / string for my Lego bridges.  When I think of twine I think of the tannish, brownish, rough, fraying type of string.  The nylon stuff is cleaner and in my humble opinion appears sharper.  A Lego purist would not allow any non-Lego element in a creation, but when it comes to suspension bridges, there are very few options.  I've viewed the use of plates (typically 1 X 6 , 8 , 10, etc.) for the main cables and suspenders, but this takes away from the cable feel and appears more like an eyebar suspension system - which were used before the invention of wire cables, but no major suspension bridge built in the past 140 years uses eyebars.

As for your issue with the leaning Technic beams... I'm unable to visualize the problem.
Could the Technic beams be leaning due to the pull of the twine? That is if the twine is not going straight vertically to the maincables above then there may be a pull on the Technic beams away from true with that of the plates.

A good tower to span ratio seems to be 1:10 and that is tower above the roadway as what is below the roadway is irrelevant, with ship clearance the contributing factor there.  Example... the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge in Japan has towers that are ~975 feet high.  The roadway at mid-span is ~320 feet above the water.  That makes for the tower above deck of ~655 feet.  The span of the AKB is 6,532 feet. This is close to the 1:10 ratio. The Golden Gate is a bit different with towers ~750 feet high and a deck height of ~220 feet.  That makes 530 feet of tower above deck and the span is 4,200 feet.  Now we're down to 1:8.  The difference is the steel in the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge's cable is much stronger due to advances in the 50+ years since the Golden Gate and thus shorter towers could then be built. The shorter the towers the more tension on the cables. Had the steel in the main cables stayed the same strength, then the towers for the  AKB would then had to have been at least 150 feet higher.

Here is a link to photos of two lego bridges I've built: http://www.flickr.com/photos/suspensionstayed/sets/72157610808577323/


What Lego set has the most unique colours? What Lego set, past or current has had the most unique colours (colors) regardless of piece count?

I've found bricklink's color list but I have not found any way to filter sets biased on most colors.

I have no idea where to find any sources for an answer, but I can offer a guess.

When it came out 70620 Ninjago City was the set with the most different elements ever made (That wasn't hard to verify, if I can remember how, I'll check later if it still is, and if any other contenders offer more colours), a guess is that they will come in many different colours. And they do, if I counted correctly there's 51 different colours in that set, quite a bit more than the 20 @Joubarc mentioned in a comment.


Separating old 2 x 4 brick with wheel holder I am wondering if anyone knows of a way to separate the clear bottom piece from the brick on part# 7049b "Brick, Modified 2 x 4 with Wheels Holder Old and Trans-Clear Bottom" without breaking anything.  Photo for reference:

I have one that has a loose bottom and it got me wondering if they could be separated without breaking them. Some of the ones I have are kinda nasty inside, while others have loose tubes that don't retain the axles very well anymore.  It would be nice if I could take them apart for cleaning and repairs, but most of them seemed "glued" together very well.  I realize they aren't meant to be taken apart, but wondered if some process including heat or something would work.  Has anyone ever tried this?  If so could you please share you experience?

I actually have one of these that comes apart easily (no idea where the internal tubes are).

It appears that the glue that used to hold them together gave out. You can still see where it used to be, around the edges of the clear piece, and at the tips of the 4 prongs on the clear piece.

If I were going to try to take one apart, I would probably try cutting the glue around the edge with a razor blade, and hope that the glue further in isn't strong enough to prevent pushing it out with a paperclip of something thought the axle holes.


How to fit lego power function LED lights onto cargo train (set: 60052) can anyone out there explain / illustrate how to fit lego power function white LED lights on the blue cargo train (set number 60052)? We have assembled the engine but I cannot see where or how these lights fit on the engine. I have watched a couple of YouTube videos showing how to fit these on other trains, but not the cargo train. There are not any holes or compatable pieces on the engine that can take the lights - as far as I can see anyway. My son is 7 and I am no lego expert by the way.
Thanks

The cargo train (60052) is not out-of-the-box able to be converted to using LED lights. The light bricks (1x1 round bricks) are fitted on the front bumper of the train with no space left for the light plugs. You would need to make modifications to the train to embed the lights - for example by mounting an additional light on top of the train, or by putting different lights on the front bumper. But you would need special transparent headlight (aka Erling) bricks for that - part 4070 or 30069 is typically used in other train sets.


Help identifying a black and white 1 x 1 LEGO part with clip on top The numbers inside this brick are 01 B02.  The brick is a 1 x 1 black plate with a white clip inserted into a hole.  I have searched BrickLink with no success. I have also searched Google.  Hoping someone from here can help.

Hey there Treppy!

This is Part #93062c01 Leg Skeleton with Black Square Foot.

Ya see, even the Skeletons know stepping on a LEGO bare boned is a no no!

See ya!


LEGO minifig authenticity I bought 3 mini figures from Amazon because I wanted specific mini figures and did not want to spend $30 plus doing so with bag ordering and opening. I got the figures and they look authentic.

The LEGO logos are on the nub of the torso and the little bridge part of the legs. However, not on the bottom of the legs.  I have 20 something minifigures that I opened from bags, they all have the logo on the bottom of the legs.  So I'm a little confused by it?

Some of the minifig parts that are officially made in China (often including the Collectable Minifigures) don't have the copyright/logo stamp on the inside toe - I noted that in a comment to my answer on What does the imprinted information inside bricks mean?


Identify this piece please? 2x2 plate with 8-sided bar running around it Can anyone identify this item for me please?
Its brick name or design ID would be great!

2x2 Modified Plate with Octagonal Bar Frame, also called Parabolic Ring. Part number 75937.

Older version: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=30033#T=C

Slightly different newer version: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=75937#T=C


LEGO Technic #42082 - Rough Terrain Crane: Loose Feet LEGO Technic crane set #42082. Putting the feet on now,  are they supposed to click in somehow? Also, my feet don’t seem to touch the ground. I’m worried I messed up somewhere a long time ago. Help please!

Everything's going according to plan.  Check out Youtuber Sariel's review on your set HERE.

At about 26mins in, he addresses your concern.  He notes the looseness of the feet when fully deployed, and says there are 4 pads stored in a compartment over the front axle. Just build on.


What LEGO set do I have? I gave my father a LEGO set to help with his dementia. He lost the box and directions. I don't know what the set is. It appears to be a car. There is a windshield and some wheels. It's mostly black and red. It looks like only 2 bags. I know I didn't spend more than $15 on the kit.

These parts are from:
42089: Power Boat

Keypart : 62360 - Trans-Black Windscreen 3 x 6 x 1 Curved


Significance of the switch from Legoland to Lego System? In former times, Lego boxes used to feature a diagonal Legoland label in one corner. (See, for instance, the box of the Space Police I capital ship, set 6986.)

Later on (if I recall correctly, starting in 1992), the Legoland label disappeared, and instead a large SYSTEM label appeared on boxes (for instance, on the first Octan gas transit vehicle, set 6594](http://lego.wikia.com/wiki/6594_Gas_Transit)).

In both cases, my guess is that Legoland and System denote the "world of minifigs", as opposed to Duplo, Fabuland, or Technic - but I was never sure about this.

Looking at boxes nowadays, such a mark has completely disappeared, and boxes just indicate their theme (such as City, as on the prisoner transporter, set 60043).

Hence, my question is: What was the significance of these labels, was there any difference in scope between Legoland and SYSTEM, and why were they changed/discontinued?

LEGOLAND

Presumably the decision to discontinue the 'Legoland' series may have been to avoid confusion with the LEGOLAND theme parks.

The original LEGOLAND in Denmark has been open since 1968 and since the opening of the second park LEGOLAND park in Windsor there have been eight new LEGOLAND parks and many LEGOLAND Discovery Centres.

The planning, design, site preparation and the design and construction of models for LEGOLAND Windsor began in 1992. The same year the LEGO product line disappeared, this however may be a coincidence but it would make sense to avoid confusion between the product line and theme park. The theme parks would also include a product line using the branding 'LEGOLAND' for merchandise such as clothing, books, souvenirs and even some sets based on the parks themselves.

Below you can see two 'LEGOLAND' sets. The set on the left was from the original LEGOLAND series and on the right is a promotional set released for the LEGOLAND parks.

LEGO System

The LEGO® Book1 refers to the LEGO System theme.

  1954 was a year in which Godtfred KirkChristiansen (GKC) did a lot of
  thinking about the future of the LEGO Group. Returning from a toy fair
  in Britain, he got talking to a colleague who pointed out that there
  was no system in the toy industry. That was all the inspiration GKC
  needed. He decided to create a structured system of products.
  Reviewing all the toys made by the company, he saw the LEGO brick was
  the best choice for this project.

1 Page 18. Lipkowitz, Daniel. The LEGO book. London: Dorling Kindersley, 2012.

The first LEGO System set was actually Town Plan No.


2:1 gear ratio in stud-less Lego Technic Is there a recognised technique to create a 2:1 gear ratio in stud-less Lego Technic?

Neither of the two methods suggested here (studded though) work.

24T/12T with a 2L x 1L axle offset does rotate, but is too stiff to be functional.

16T/8T with a 1L x 1L axle offset is totally jammed.

Here's a solution I found in Yoshihito Isogawa's LEGO Power Functions Idea Book Vol. 1 - Machines and Mechanisms:

EDIT
based on Eric's comment:

And here's using the black piece from JohnnyB's tweak:


How to use this 5 and a half width windshield? I recently went to Legoland in the Boston area and found the following windshield brick in the free build section.

Ignore my airplane build of questionable quality. What puzzled me was the width of the windshield piece I found in the part bin. As you can see it was roughly 5 and a half bricks wide. At the time I was confused at how the brick was intended to be used. Upon reflection my best guess is it might have fit if I would have used a 2x1 brick with the single center top bump on one side.

I couldn't make out the part number but I was able to barely discern it was a Lego branded part. The part number was in the center section of the windshield. I'd be interested to see a picture of the brick used in a custom build or an original set so I can see what others have done with it or how the designers intended it to be used.

That part is a little tough to use on its own. It is generally paired with another element to create a 6-wide windscreen (6567c02):

Without the outer part, you don't have any nice stud connections to work with, and as you mentioned the size is strange, so it would be challenging to work it into a build.

I imagine it is now obvious how this is used, but since you asked to see this in a set, here is one example:


Does anyone know what set this is? I have recently re-discovered Lego and was looking through my son's old sets. In a box I found this partially assembled "Bug". I don't have the instructions nor the original box so I am unsure what set this is.

If I can figure it out I can get the parts list and instructions and complete it.

I believe this to be part of the Insectoid space series,

I think set 6907:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=6907-1

But could also be one of the other 3 sets that contain the stinger.
https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=x239&in=S


How tall is the Saturn V set in LEGO units (studs, bricks etc.)? I'm building a MOC to scale with the Saturn V set and am having trouble figuring out how tall the 1st stage engines are but the entire thing would be really helpful! Thanks!

I've been contemplating this question for quite a while.  In the great tradition of this site I felt this needed practical verification.  I decided to make a ruler based on scaling up set 5005107, LEGO Buildable Ruler to measure the Saturn V myself.

tl;dr

| STAGE             | Studs Tall | Bricks Tall |
|-------------------|------------|-------------|
| S-IC first stage  | 52.2 studs | 43.8 bricks |
| S-II second stage | 33.8 studs | 28.3 bricks |
| S-IVB third stage | 50.5 studs | 42.1 bricks |

My conversions are not perfect based on the calculator, but they're close enough that I don't think I messed up anything.

Overall

As we know, this is a huge set.  I needed my ruler to be >32 studs tall to measure any of the stages.  Here's my setup:

I've included pictures of the bottoms of the rockets since they nest somewhat so you can see how tall the rocket engine part ends up being versus the entire shell of the rocket.

S-IC first stage

The bottom:

The top:

I read that as 52.2 studs or 43.8 bricks tall.

S-II second stage

The bottom:

The top:

I read that as 33.8 studs or 28.3 bricks high.

S-IVB third stage

The bottom:

The top:

I read that as 50.5 studs or 42.1 bricks tall.


Can I use two ultrasound sensors at a time? Is there a way to use two ultrasound sensors on a Mindstorms NXT without them interfering with each other?

theres a single shot mode (at least when using NXC, NXT-G is very limited in fuctionality) for ultrasonic sensors. if you use that and don't read from two sensors at the exact same time, you can pass around interferences. to read more about that, please take a look at:

http://www.mindsensors.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=134
http://social.msdn.microsoft.com/Forums/nl/roboticstroubleshooting/thread/81a4680d-20a7-46bc-bdba-e7041566c93c


Mysterious Part ID help, clear blue disk with electronics inside My kiddo has recently been given a random parts grab bag, and we’re unable to ID one particular item, of which he has three: anyone know this part?

That's a LEGO Dimensions Toy Tag, used  to connect the physical toys to the now discontinued LEGO Dimensions game. See it here: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18603c00a#T=C&C=15

Yours is the plain kind (no printing on top), which means it was not used for a minifig, but for one of the small builds in a LEGO Dimensions set. Here is a list of all the sets the part you have appeared in: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=18603c00a&in=S


What are the holes on the backs of MegaBlocks Call of Duty characters for? I need help with identifying this, and I'll have a lot more questions.

The hole on the back of the figures is mostly used for backpacks and other accessories as shown here in the figure on the left:

In addition, it is also used sometimes to secure the figures into position. For example, in some open cockpit vehicles there is a peg at the back of the seats, that the hole on the back of the figures can attach to. This keeps the figures more secure in their position.


Is LEGO testing the market with the Minifigure Series? I looks to me that LEGO is testing the market by using the Minifigure Series.  It seems logical to try all kind of different themes and see which ones are gaining traction.

For example:

Minifigure Series 1 (May 2010) had a ninja and then Ninjago came out (2011)
Minifigure Series 2 (Sep 2010) had a Pharaoh and then Pharaoh Quest came out (2011)

If you look at all the new LEGO IPs since  Minifigure Series exist, it looks like you can find a link for each one.

Did LEGO confirm that this was one of the goal of the  Minifigure Series?

That sounds like a very valid question, but I think the answer is slightly more complex.

First, as you note, there's an obvious link in terms of moulds reuse, which means LEGO can offload the cost of these new parts to the minifig series (which aren't exactly on the cheap side), so that regular sets introduced later can be cheaper as a result. They do that too with licensed sets, by the way; for example, the Harley Quinn minifig financed the cost of the jester headgear.

Then, as you ask, do they actually test the market?

In a way, this would seem to make sense: if, say, spartan minifigs sell well, LEGO might be tempted to introduce spartan sets. Yet I think there are two problems with that.

The first is that they need to follow which minifig is more sought after, which they can't study from their own data since they sell "random" minifigs and the buyer can't pick the ones they want. Of course, they can check the aftermarket for that, bricklink prices and so forth, but is that really representative of what fans want, I don't know.

The second point is that sets design happens quite a long time before sets reach the shops. A designer told me in july 2012 that all 2013 sets were already designed, so you can count on 1 year and half between design and shops. Moreover, designing sets isn't the first step, and picking themes come before that. So if LEGO feels that a particular minifig sells well and decide to make a theme based on it, it'll be two years before that theme appears. Which isn't to say they won't, but I think they're a bit more preemptive than that.

So, in my opinion, LEGO might decide to do whole themes which have similarities with collectible minifigs, but I doubt they take the time to test the market - they just use the minifigs to offset the cost of new parts in upcoming sets. So, will we see cavemen sets? Spartan sets? Noone but LEGO can say at this point, but it's a possibility. It seems there will be some western sets in 2013, and we've indeed seen indian minifigs in the first series.


Starting out with trains: PF, RC, 9v or what? I've always wanted Lego trains as a child, but never had any. However, now my son is old enough to appreciate them, I thought I might invest in some 2nd hand sets. The problem is, what standard to settle on?

Growing up, I always wanted to go 9v because of the automatic points etc. but is it still worthwhile going that route since Lego have long since stopped producing compatible hardware?

If you opt for an older system which isn't produced anymore, it's going to be very hard for you to reach a decent collection and maintain it. Even 9v which was only recently been discontinued will be hard to find, especially straight tracks.

Also, 9V points were not automated, so if you really want automated points, you'll have to go back to 12v, which is even older and harder to get in quantities (not to mention the parts become fragile).

Rolling stock will usually be fairly compatible since the gauge has always been the same, and magnets have always been used as coupling mechanism. So there you can buy whatever you find.

And if it's for your son, keep in mind that other relatives (granparents for example) may be less informed than you and will tend to just buy whatever they find in stores. So if you go for a 9v layout but your kids receives PF tracks, he won't be too happy, much to the chagrin of the relative.

On the contrary, if you opt for plastic-only Power Function trains, even if someone manages to buy you 9v track, you can use it as is, it's fully compatible. Also, the flexible track part is easy for a kid to work with and not bother too much about whether the layout will work or not, something which can't be said for older systems where you would sometimes need to draw your layout in advance to know if the geometry would make sense.

In short, I think it's easiest for a kid to just embrace the new Power Function trains, but stay clear of the two "RC" trains which weren't too good.

(Of course, for a very young child, Duplo trains might be a good choice too ;-)


Is there any way of knowing how many bags came with a set? I have just acquired 9474 Battle of Helm's deep and have some others where the box is open and I don't know if all the bags are in there. For example this set it looks like bag one has been opened, and I have three bags each of 2 and 3.

Instructions
If you cannot find a review, most sets detail which bags you will be using for each stage within the included instructions. LEGO provide a easy lookup for most instructions included in sets if you do not have a physical copy.
Online reviews
An easy way to find out these sort of things is to find a review online, for sets of this size there are often quite lengthy details.

A total of 9 bags, each with 1 or 2 smaller bags inside.

Weight
To be sure you could also weigh all the bags, add them up and deduct it from the known weight (subtracting the box and instruction weight). Physical information of sets including dimensions and weights can be found on LEGO set databases like Brickset.com


In LEGO: How to build a revolving magazine rack for 2x3 tiles? I've been trying for months to come up with a design or parts for a 4-sided spinning magazine rack, like the old wire-style you would see in book stores.  I need it to be fairly stable so I can put in/pull out 2x3 tiles [printed with magazine covers.]  The problem I'm having is the racks are so minimalist that i can't find the sweet spot between form & function.  Bonus points if the rack rotates, but not necessary.

I humbly bow down to those who can design such a rack and shower them with good karma (e.g., not finding bricks in the dark with your feet.)
A thousand thanks for your ideas or designs!
UPDATE:  Apologies for delays, I've got a lot going on, my LEGO are in storage and it's taken me days to find piece info on Brickset.  (I'm not very familiar with piece names.)
Here are some additional pieces I've tried, along with some clarifications...
The post of the magazine rack - this part seems simple enough: a flat tile with a technic pin and a series of other pins and bushings, with the option to stack in the actual rack building pieces.  Hopefully no images are required for this part.
The individual [magazine] racks - this is where I struggle.  My thought is some bar-type items, though I have tried other things like 1x2 plates with clips.  I think the racks/magazine holding parts probably need to be connected to the post at the top and bottom of each rack for stability, but a simpler design may work.  Some of the pieces I've tried for building the rack and it's connection point(s) to the post include:
= 2566: ASSEMBLY ELEMENT Ø3.2

= 4733: Brick 1x1 w/ 4 knobs

= 40244: TUBE 1 M Ø4.85 W. (rotated 90 degrees: pin hole for post, clips for racks)

= 98397: HANDLEBAR W/3.2

= 243226: CLAMP 1X2

= 2540: PLATE 1X2 W. STICK

= 48336: PLATE 1X2 W. STICK 3.18

= 4623: PLATE W. HOOK 1X2

= 3839: MINI HANDLE

= 53989: BAD ROBOT ARM

= 30377: SPACE SKELETON ARM

= 30374: LIGHT SWORD -

Again, a truly sincere thanks for anyone who can come up with a design.  This magazine rack will be part of a tributary diorama for a dear, dear friend.  Thank you for your considerations.
Here are two more parts I've tried or considered using...
= 98284: LegoPlate, Round 2 x 2 with Pin Hole and 4 Arms Up

= 48723: LegoTechnic, Axle Connector Hub with 4 Bars and Pin Hole

...and also this, thinking it would be better for two attachment points, but with no success...
= 35366: [Part 35366] Bar 2 1/4 x 5 1/4 Double Squares (BrickHeadz Glasses Square)

I suggest using 4175 1x2 plate with ladder together with 3839 1x2 plate with handles SNOTted together with the help of 4070 1x1 brick with headlight, one 2x2 plate and 2 1x2 plates, like so:

Yes, the whole thing is upside-down. This is normal.
This contraption will hold the 2x3 tile snugly, thanks to the offset provided by the lip of the headlight brick. The handle plate will prevent the tile from sliding to the sides while allowing the tile to wiggle a bit. This can be seen in this top view:

Build a few of those, and place them on top of each other in a ladder-like manner, like so:

Add an upside-down 2x6 plate with a 3937 1x2 hinge brick base plus 3938 1x2 hinge brick top, so the entire structure hangs, like so:

...add a column to the center of the 2x6 plate, and the rest is pretty much symmetrical. It might be possible to attach extra hinged plates at the base of the structure for extra stability.
Unfortunately, this design is somewhat bulky. I cannot think (right now) of any other slanted-SNOT design that is more compact. On the plus side, this slanted design offers perfect functionality when getting tiles in/out of the racks.
If you want more than one 2x3 tile per rack, or a looser fit, try getting rid of the headlight bricks, rotating the handle plates 90°.

EDIT: I've been fiddling a bit with your suggestions of 98397 Utensil handlebars and space skeleton arm... just to remember about the existence of other arm pieces like 93061 Arm Skeleton, Bent with Clips at 90 degrees. Together with some 85861 1x1 plate round with open stud, 63965 Bar 6L and 4032 2x2 plate round, it's possible to do something like:

However, I'm not entirely sure if the bent skeleton arms will have enough grip. If they do not, some of the handlebar pieces might drop, and individual racks might rotate out of place.
Note that I'm using four bars there - using one bar doesn't provide enough room, and the individual racks would collide with each other. Hence the 1x1 round hollow plates.


Difference between "Pick a brick" and "Bricks and pieces" I am confused by the existence of two distinct and official Lego online services for ordering individual Lego parts, Pick a brick and Bricks and pieces.

Why are there two of them? What are the benefits and drawbacks of them, respectively?

The Pick-a-Brick selection has the more common pieces that aren't specific to sets whereas on Bricks and Pieces you can get set specific pieces that are more uncommon such as minifigure parts from a (non-licensed) theme. Since the Bricks and Pieces parts are more specialized they are usually more expensive than Pick-a-Brick, so don't get basic bricks from Bricks and Pieces.


How to sell a large amount of Lego Hope someone can help. I bought my husband a huge bundle of Lego a few years ago, but he doesn't have the time to sort it, so we want to sell it on.

We've identified a lot of the sets from pieces/minifigs/searching Google images for instruction books etc.

It's a mix of mainly Star Wars & Harry Potter. Loads of mini figures, no idea if the sets are complete. I don't think the HP is.

What's the best way to sell it? I really don't want to split it, thought about eBay, but as I don't know how much is complete I don't want to end up in a dispute.

Any info would be great! Thanks!

Since you don't want to go through the trouble of sorting the bulk lot, you can sell it as is either locally or at an auction site like eBay. It is perfectly normal to sell bulk lots of LEGO both locally and online without being able to tell exactly what's in the lot. If you want to spend the least amount of time on this, I would suggest first listing the lot on Craigslist or similar venues you may have locally. If it doesn't sell locally within a month or so, put the lot up on eBay.

Whether you sell locally or through an auction site, describe the lot as much as you can, but don't make guarantees. Just describe what you see. If you have a scale, measure the weight of the loose LEGO pieces. Many people buy LEGO by the pound, and knowing that the lot includes i.e. 10 pounds of pieces can be helpful for buyers to understand what they are looking at. (Just for your information, $5/lbs is the usual going price for mixed lot of used LEGO that buyers are willing to pay).

You can sell the lot just by a brief description, the weight, and pictures. It is a normal and accepted practice to sell mixed lots of bulk LEGO. However, if you spend a bit more time on the description, you will likely get better offers. This would include things like the general condition of the pieces, instructions and minifigures. Are there any other toys or foreign objects mixed in? Do the pieces need cleaning? Do they appear lightly used or heavily played with? Are printed pieces and clear pieces scratched up or appear to be in good condition?

If you feel they may have special value, describe the minifigs separately. How many there are, and what is their condition. If you see teeth-marks, paint marks, stains, missing body parts, etc. the value is going to be a lot less then if they are in pristine condition. Again, don't make guarantees, because everyone will have different standards, but just describe what you see.

Include a list of the instruction booklets. List the set numbers printed at the front of the instructions, as well as the condition of the instructions (i.e. missing pages, ripped pages, other damage). The list can give people an idea what pieces might be in the lot.

Whether you advertise locally or through an auction site like eBay, one of the most important part of your description is pictures. The more detailed pictures you take, the better. This doesn't mean having to photograph every piece separately, but just spread out the pieces as reasonably as you can and take good quality shots. You might want to also take separate pictures of the minifigs and the instruction booklets. Make sure that the pictures are not fuzzy and dark. The more people can see, the better their offers are going to be.

If you list on Craigslist or a similar local site, you will need to put a price on the lot. This is a bit tricky as you don't want to ask for something outrageous to put off people from even contacting you, but you also don't want to lowball yourself. You could work with the $5/pound standard for bulk lots, and maybe ask for $7/pound, leaving some room to go lower if necessary. eBay is a lot easier in regards to pricing, as the market will give you exactly what the lot is worth based on your description and pictures. List the lot as an auction with a low starting price and/or reserve, and let people bid what they think the lot is worth. Keep in mind that eBay will take 10% of the proceeds, and another 3% will go to PayPal.

If you sell through eBay, you will also need to ship the lot to the buyer. Get the right size shipping box and packing materials beforehand so you get at least a rough idea of how much it is going to cost to ship. Pack smaller lots into Ziplock bags before placing them in the shipping box. This will prevent the pieces from rattling around too much and getting damaged, and it also prevents bringing attention to the content of the box (stealing boxes full of LEGO is pretty common). You can offer free shipping (this will bring in more potential bidders, but you will have to eat the cost yourself), or let the buyer pay for shipping. The eBay selling platform helps you set this all up.

Keep in mind that selling the lot bulk is still going to bring in the least amount of money. This is understandable, as people are talking the risk of not knowing what's exactly in the lot, the condition of the pieces, minifigs and instructions, and how many of the sets are complete.

Another option you might consider is hire someone locally to sort the pieces for you into sets that you can then sell separately. You might not have the time and inclination, but many people love to sort LEGO. You can even have a sorting party with a few older kids and/or adults. Offer some pizza and drinks and they will be happy to sort the pieces for you into sets. Once the sets are sorted, depending on how complete they are, you can either sell them as complete used sets, partial used sets, or smaller bulk lots of Star Wars sets, Harry Potter sets, etc.

One last thing I would add is that LEGO is bringing back Harry Potter this year. They will likely have much better sets and minifigs than in the past. If you want to sell the lot you have for the best price, I would suggest doing it before the new sets are released.


Hacking the Bluetooth motor in the motorized LEGO® DC Super Heroes 76112 App-Controlled Batmobile I'd like to hack the receiver / motor so I can control it from my Mac (or a PC if there is no other way).

Recently LEGO released an app-controlled Batmobil - product detailed are here:
https://shop.lego.com/en-US/App-Controlled-Batmobile-76112

The Bluetooth receiver (LEGO Part #6253628) can connect to an app, in our case, an iPhone. I tried to see if it was visible in the Bluetooth elements to connect to, and nope... I cannot also find any MAC address on the receiver itself.

Any hint or clue?

Edit #1

I am looking for a way to connect to the Bluetooth receiver and be able to program it in Python (or C/Java...), but not a GUI.

There's a node.js library that can connect to the Move Hub and control attached peripherals:

https://github.com/nathankellenicki/node-poweredup

This should allow you to write scripts and programs that can control the motor from your Mac.


EV3 Brick Error Symbols? I am currently developing an EV3 robot that sorts colored technic beams.  However, the brick will only run part of the program and then generate a strange error code on the brick's screen.  The error contains no text, only symbols.  The symbol appears as a triangle with an exclamation point on it, and right next to it is an imitation of programming blocks from the EV3 programming software.  Does anyone know what this symbol means, and what to do about it?

After further experimentation, I have narrowed down the possibilities.  Both MyBlocks that cause the on-brick error contain loops that are configured to loop until a logic variable becomes true.  One of these MyBlocks that has that loop contains more blocks after the loop, but the error comes and the program stops before these instructions are executed.  Still unable to provide a picture, but does someone know why the EV3 does not like logic loops?

I know that this question is old, but if someone else has this question, I have found that these error messages often appear when you are either trying to access a non existent array (i.e. you copied the block from another project and you did not change the name of the variable) OR when trying to access a value of an array with an index that does not exist (i.e. In an array of size 4 you are trying to access index #4 or index #5)


How to assemble the snake-head axe I want to make an axe out of the axe head with snake
There's a picture of how they did it here:
I don't know how to look up the accessories on the minifig on the right with the axe. Can anyone explain to me the parts used to attache the axe-head there?

The axe is made of

Minifigure, Weapon Axe Head with Snake and Trans-Red Curved Blade Pattern
Bar 6L with Stop Ring
Bar 1L with Top Stud and 2 Side Studs (Connector)
Barb / Claw / Horn - Small

as seen on page 5 of the instructions from set # 70626


Are these LEGO pieces original? How can I be sure? When I enter in the code on the BrickLink site the codes come up, but there are no markings on the tires suggesting the name of the company or any code. Could it still be an original piece if this is the case?

For the rim I would say its original.

LEGO made this part in Transparent.
It has the correct mound ID 88517
And contains the LEGO logo + copyright symbol

Only this part comes in 2 sets which doesn't contain a tire.

The tire you have looks like Motorcycle Tyre Ø 100,6. Based on photos I cannot see any visible markings on the outside of the tire. I do own a couple of these tires myself but don't have access to them at the moment. So I can't check if there are any markings on the inside of the tire.

If I check for example the Bugatti or the Harley-Davidson tire, all the id stuff that is not mentioned on the outside, is on the inside. See picture below of the small tire used in the Harley-Davidson.

So you can check the inside for any markings telling you if its an original part or not.


Automating self built models I have just started with Lego, building the excavator with the 2 Bluetooth hubs. Can I program a model I build using this type of hub and motors or do I require EV3 (if indeed EV3 allows you to control motors in a non-robotic setup)? The phone app only seems to give you Lego's own models, and no program blocks.

I'm assuming you are using the Control+ app with the 42100 liebherr r 9800 set.
The Control+ app is indeed limited to the fixed models.
However the Powered Up app can also connect to the Control+ hub and supports it reasonably well. The Powered Up app has a "Create" mode where you can use programming blocks, it's similar to the Scratch educative programming environment.
You'll easily find the app in your app store on your device.
Note that contrary to EV3, Spike Prime or the new robotics set, code runs mostly on your smart device. I.e. you cannot operate your model without your smart device.
However, the micro-controller on the Control+ smarthub (Or the Powered Up or Boost smarthub for that matter) is powerful enough to run a version of microPython. This is used in the PyBricks project, which allows you to code the smarthub directly in Python.
https://pybricks.com/about/


What parts are in each bag for the Star Wars Death Star 75159? I have two opened death stars. Some bags are unopened and others are mixed. I need a checklist of what comes in each bag.

I would like to sell one and keep one.

I have an idea that might just work for you.
You clearly have two of everything that you need, so I recommend use Bricklink and go through your list selecting the quantity of bricks required from the pile of bricks that have been opened. That should leave you a pile that you do not need (for the second build)
This will be a good starting point.
Good luck.


Are there Powered Up compatible connectors available? I'm interested in experimenting with custom LEGO Powered Up peripherals. Are there connectors available that I can use to interface with the hub?

There do not appear to be any compatible connectors available currently. You can obviously splice cables from the official components, but that's expensive and makes those components unusable.

I hope that someone has a better answer, but the best that I've been able to do so far is to use a modified SATA connector. I first saw this in a video that demonstrated that the pin separation is the same between the two connectors.

Here's a standard SATA connector:

With a little Dremel work, you can expose the pins and reduce the width enough to fit the SATA connector into the Powered Up hub:

Here's the Powered Up connector for reference:

Notice that the SATA connector uses one extra pin. The pin on the right is extra and will not make contact with anything.

The first 6 pins line up with the hub just fine:

The SATA connector is unfortunately a little too thin to fit snugly:

If you can get it wedged in using some sort of shim (paper, cardboard, etc) you should be able to get a good connection.


Technic Rough Terrain Crane (42082) doesn't move After first book, crane won't roll if pushed. If this normal. I know when you free soon one wheel, the other will go opposite direction, but when I try to spin all four in one direction, it locks. It this normal until motors are functional?

Motor is only being used to operate the crane, not to drive the model. So driving/pushing shouldn't be blocked at any time. I suspect there will be an issue with position of differential - if placed incorrectly both axles will spin opposite directions. And if placed on the ground the model will simply not move.
Check steps 169 and 268 in instructions booklet to compare and confirm the position of differential housings in your model.
Step 169 has this picture:

Step 268:

Further step 273 has this picture showing that both differentials should be facing opposite directions:

It is also important to check the placement of the gears if they haven't been pushed too hard against any liftarms/beams and are not jammed.


Looking for instructions for this Mega Bloks Dragon Ship I don't know the model #, but it's probably from the early 2000's. Looks like this.

Looks like Set #9895 - Dragons - Krystal Wars - Man O War.

Instructions: HERE.


Help identifying this 1x1 2/3 brick (no studs) I have been trying to identify this 1x1 2/3 (?) brick (looked in Studio, Bricklink parts list, sets, ...) and cannot, for the life of me, identify it. I have been able to find a picture of it and know it exists at least in white and light gray. The closest I got was 49307

Can somebody help me out?

I believe that you are seeing the wide end of a cheese slope like this:

Note that these are simply held in place by friction and not really "connected" in a traditional way.


Why does this program work in LabView when targeted to computer but not to NXT? I have a program written in Labview for my LEGO Mindstorms NXT 2.0. When the target is set to the computer, the program works just fine. However, when I set the target to the NXT, the program doesn't work the same as when targeted to the computer.

The program makes the robot go forward until it is 30 centimetres away from an object, which is detected by the NXT's ultrasonic sensor. Then the robot will stop. If the object is moved and there is no object within 30 centimeters of the NXT's ultrasonic sensor, the robot will go forward again until it is 30 centimeters away from an object again. Then, it will stop.

This works when the target is set to computer in Labview, but not when set to NXT. When set to NXT, once the first object is detected, it will stop. But, if the object is removed and there is no longer any object within 30 centimetres of the ultrasonic sensor, the robot will remain stationary and not move forward.

Here is a screenshot of the block diagram:

Here is a link to the source code for the program.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I would recommend you post this question to the National Instruments Discussion Forums. We have a dedicated board for supporting the LabVIEW for Mindstorms software. Since you are using LabVIEW, you can post the question there and NI support engineers are guaranteed to help you.
http://forums.ni.com/t5/LabVIEW-for-LEGO-MINDSTORMS-and/bd-p/460


LEGO STUDIOS Moviemaker Set I was offered a set from LEGO STUDIOS line, very well maintained but without his software.

Can someone share the installation CD in English of LEGO STUDIOS 1349 Steven Spielberg Moviemaker Set or where can I download the software in English??

Generally speaking, you should ask LEGO to send you a replacement disc. In 2006 they sent the software without any further cost according to this forum thread.

Note though, the official software is almost 15 years old by now, and so it is likely incompatible with any modern computer. There is a version that is compatible with XP, but anyways it is generally accepted that the official software is far worse than the best generic alternative.

Keeping this in mind, I would rather recommend you to look around for other generic video-editing software: Free software collection of a hobbyist LEGO movie group