Which parts have no-friction Technic axle holes? I want to make a no (or very low) friction inline coupling for axles.  The axles must turn, transmit moderate torque, and be in phase (therefore backlash must be minimal).  The axles remain inline at all times.  The axles do not need to slide when in use; the no-friction requirement is just for easy (dis)assembly.

The coupling must be very compact, especially in width (not greater than 2 studs wide).  So I am interested in parts with no-friction axle holes.

I am aware of the following parts:

32905 Screw Gear.  This has the disadvantage of being > 1 stud wide,
so cannot have beams or connectors immediately adjacent.
32494 Steering CV Joint.  Together with 92906 CV Joint Axle the assembly is 1 stud wide, but needs "bracing" to keep it inline.

Are there other parts with no/low-friction axle holes that could be useful for this coupling design?  Or are there alternative coupling designs that meet the stated requirements?

One possibility is the Technic, Gear 8 Tooth without Friction. It was specificially designed to allow axles to slide through it. It can be held by 4 other 8-tooth gears, one of which could allow for the mechanical connection:

 o
o+*
 o

+ This is the frictionless 8-tooth gear your axle can be inserted into
* This gear is used to transmit the torque via another, fixed axle
o These are gears pinned to the frame but connected only to the central one

The above solution does violate the 2 studs width requirement, but it still might be possible to use the gear with the fixed axle inserted by half a stud and the removable axle occupying the remaining half stud. This would require a way to fix the gear in place, since both axles would have the same amount of clutch, and depending on your definition of "moderate torque", the interface along the half stud length of gear and axle might prove insufficient.


How can I fix this gap in the Ghostbusters Firehouse roof? We built the LEGO 75827 Ghostbusters Firehouse which was good fun.  But despite being pretty sure we have all of the pieces where they are supposed to go, there is a gap in the roof:

Yet it goes into place with a slight push:

So:

What could be causing this?
How can I fix it without glue?

I have this set and it does the same thing for me. The problem is that the size of the model and the tolerances between bricks add up and by the time you have a structure of that size not everything fits perfectly.

First thing you should do is make sure all the pieces are properly seated all the way down the construction of the model. It is possible to make the pieces rest in the proper position.

If that still doesn't work for you, you can certainly fix it by replacing some of the tiles with plates. The building is meant to be modular, and thus easily disassembled into sections, for play/display purposes. If you rebuild it with plates instead of tiles it will have more structural strength but will be more difficult to disassemble.


Can you help me identify this poly bag #4 with many grey pieces? We got this bag in a free box and don't know what it is!

I'll be happy to help out, my Friend. It comes from Set #75103 First Order Transporter.
See ya around Space Cowboy!


How do they keep the outdoor models so clean at the various Legoland parks? I've visited Legoland in California a few times and was always impressed with the lack of accumulated grime or bird "strikes" on the outdoor displays. How do the park employees accomplish this feat? What combination of tools and/or techniques do the Parks utilize to keep the models free from build up?

I've been to Legoland Windsor (in the UK) on one of the days they were cleaning some of the boats, and it looked hard - all manual work, with a large toothbrush and plenty of elbow grease


What happened to Olivia in the 2018 Lego Friends sets? If you've been following the information about the 2018 Lego Friends sets, you may have noticed that some of the characters look a little different. Most characters look fairly similar with minor updates. However, Olivia appears to now be a different race:

Olivia before 2018:

Olivia in 2018:

What is happening here? Has Olivia been replaced?

Many adjustments have been made for 2018. The five main characters all still exist, but they have been changed somewhat. This was brought up on the Lego Ambassador Network, and generated enough interest to get an official response from the Friends team in Billund:

  Every year we strive to innovate and make our products even better for
  children all over the world. A lot of effort has gone into the
  development of the LEGO characters and universes across our entire
  product range, so it makes us very happy  when changes are noticed.

  LEGO Friends in 2018 looks a bit different than what it has in the
  past. To be specific, the 5 main characters have a slightly different
  look but also the city and the citizens of Heartlake City have
  changed.

  But what are the reasons for the change?

  Firstly, we want to assure you that all 5 friends are still there in
  2018. Andrea, Mia, Emma, Stephanie and Olivia – they all still exist! Also the character’s main interests and personalities remain mainly
  unchanged.

  What you will see in 2018 is an evolution of LEGO Friends, a
  progression of the story and characters to make sure children get an
  even greater play experience. Every year more than a million children
  and parents reach out to us and share what they love and what they
  would like to change. In the LEGO Friends range children told us that
  they would like even more differentiated characters and also suggested
  improvements to Heartlake City.

  We always take great care to listen to input from children, and the
  LEGO Friends team has worked hard to make even more engaging and
  relevant experiences for children – and also make the LEGO Friends
  universe more true to the actual world children live in.

  Taking a starting point in reality, we’ve made the characters more
  diverse in their appearance and have added more depth to their
  personality. And of course, they still live in Heartlake City. But
  just as the characters have changed, Heartlake City has become more
  differentiated and rich. There are different districts and there are
  other citizens that play a more active role in the story.

  The changes we have made does not change the fact that previous and
  new LEGO Friends sets will cater for great building and play
  experience in 2018 and beyond, and we hope to inspire even more
  stories and play opportunities for children in the future.


Where did these small tan bricks come from? I was going through an old box of LEGO bricks from the 70's and 80's and I found a number of small bricks that appear to be about 2/3 size. They have the LEGO logo, and appear to be the official tan color (05). I can't find a reference anywhere as to their origin.

These look like Modulex bricks:

Modulex was a building system that was designed for adults. It was developed by The LEGO Group at the same time as their Modulex sets were produced from 1963 until 1965, and were exclusively available in parts packs by colour. The LEGO Group made Modulex a separate company in 1965, and the text "LEGO" was removed from the studs and replaced with "M".
Modulex bricks were formed with a cube type 5 to 5 width/length ratio, meaning that, unlike very nearly every product produced by The LEGO Group, they were not compatible with LEGO bricks, which have a 6.5 to 5 width/length ratio. Modulex bricks were available in a wide array of unusual colours, shapes, and sizes.
from Brickipedia


How to ship a LEGO sculpture to a contest? I am planning to participate in an art contest that allows paintings, sculptures, or video clips. I have a LEGO sculpture in mind that would fit the idea of the contest, but it would have to be shipped to the jurors. The contest itself is not about LEGO at all, so I have no idea how they will react to a LEGO set. I just want to use it as a medium to convey my message.

The sculpture would be a diorama with a small figure (not a minifig) and some larger figures. The basic question is: How can the sculpture be delivered to the contest in one piece? I can think of some options:

Glue: Since the figures would stand in the diorama, the glueing area would be quite small, breaking is likely to happen.
Sturdy build, use Technic connections: Having the figures attached to the sculpture with lift arms would look weird and would probably decrease artistic value.
Partly disassemble the sculpture and give instructions for final assembly to the contest committee.

Number 3 is my favourite solution. However, is it acceptable for a contest to deliver a partly assembled sculpture?? I would wrap each figure separately and deliver also photographs/descriptions of the final arrangement.

Do you have experience with shipping sculptures and contests? What is the most feasible approach? Are there other considerations?

EDIT: After Mołot's comment I contacted the contest committee. They were very kind, and obviously, it is no problem to submit half-assembled work (in this case). Lesson learned: Ask!

As @Mołot commented, first ask the contest committee whether they have specific rules. In general though, shipping in chunks is common, ideally few pieces that are simple and straightforward to attach.

Rigid, sturdy builds are obviously going to stand up better to the travails of shipping, so try to avoid spindly construction. Follow good mechanical engineering principles, and if you can use technics for internal support, it may be very useful.

Glue also helps - yes, it's a bit more permanent, but for this type of production, you want that.

Additionally, shipping with "popcorn" pieces densely packed really helps prevent damage. Be aware that whoever unpacks it may be less keen :-)


How make robot turning going straight? I have been struggling with this function for a while.

I want my robot to turn left until it detects black then turn right until it hits black again. Then, I will divide the angle in half and call rotateTo to make the robot move that angle. I don't know why it is not working the way I want it to.

The reason I do that is because after I turn left or right it is not exactly 90 degrees. That is why I want to make sure it is facing the right direction before it continues moving. Here is the code:

int numberTurn = 0;
int numLeft = 0;
int numRight = 0;
RegulatedMotor Left = Motor.A;
RegulatedMotor Right = Motor.C;
while(color_id!=7){
    moveForward(300, 50);
    color_id = color_test.getColorID();
}
while(color_id==7){
    moveForward(300, 50);
    color_id = color_test.getColorID();
}
color_id = color_test.getColorID();
Left.resetTachoCount();
Right.resetTachoCount();
while(color_id!=7){
    Left.rotate(100,true);
    Right.rotate(-100,true);
    color_id = color_test.getColorID();
}
Right.stop(true);
Left.stop(true);
numLeft += Left.getTachoCount();
while(color_id==7){
    Left.rotate(-100,true);
    Right.rotate(100,true);
    color_id = color_test.getColorID();
}
Right.stop(true);
Left.stop(true);
numRight += Left.getTachoCount();
while(color_id!=7){
    Left.rotate(-100,true);
    Right.rotate(100,true);
    color_id = color_test.getColorID();
}
Right.stop(true);
Left.stop(true);
numRight += Left.getTachoCount();
numberTurn = (numRight-numLeft)/2;
Left.rotateTo(-numberTurn,true);
Right.rotateTo(numberTurn,true);
while(Left.isMoving()){
}

Left and Right is motor. For color_id, 7 is black
Anyone have any ideas why it doesn't work?

The main problems I see are the following:

The value in the numRight variable is wrong for two reason: The 'right' sensor is not reseted at the proper time and you read the 'left' sensor value instead of the 'right'.
The angle calculation is faulty
The half rotation is performed in the wrong direction

Here are my code comments:

//Move forward until you find black
[...]

//Move forward until you are not on black anymore
[...]

//Reset the rotation sensors
[...]
//   WARNING: The right sensor is reset for no reason
Right.resetTachoCount();

//Turn left until you find black
[...]

//Get the left rotation sensor data
[...]

//Turn right until you are not on black anymore
[...]

//Get the right rotation sensor data
//   ERROR: This action should not be done until you have turned all the way to the right
//   ERROR: At this stage the right sensor should be reseted
//   Note: ...and the 'left' data was put in the 'right' variable
numRight += Left.getTachoCount();

//Turn right until you find black
[...]

//Get the right rotation sensor data
//   ERROR: This data should come from right.getTachoCount();
numRight += Left.getTachoCount();

//Calculate the half angle
//   ERROR: The calculation should be: numberTurn = ((numRight + numLeft) / 2 ) / 2;
//   Explaination: By adding the two rotations and then dividing by 2 you get the average of the two.
//                 The result is then divided by 2 again to get the half angle.
numberTurn = (numRight-numLeft)/2;
//Rotate back (should be to the left) to half the angle
//   ERROR: Rotation is performed to the right when it shoud be to the left
Left.rotateTo(-numberTurn,true);
Right.rotateTo(numberTurn,true);

Recommendation: When dealing with multi steps processes like this one, add the steps one by one while re-testing each time. The test should validate that the previous steps are still working and  that the added step is working as planned.


Are my LEGO Star Wars Royal Guards with black hands counterfeit? At the current moment due to my camera being busted on my phone and the protective glass on it being shattered my camera can't take anything more than a legit blur.
However I've come here to say the legs have no LEGO stamp on the inside. Nor does the helmet. Its the newer Black gloved Royal Guards. The LEGO stamp is on the neck piece and in-between the leg prongs on top. But no where else.
Also the arms don't have a LEGO stamp, they just say 04-B02 L with a underline. The red plastic even seems a odd tinge of color. I bought them off Bricklink.
If anyone has one of these Royal Guards can they clue me in?

That set was produced from around 2009, and anecdotally, we've seen that the LEGO logo wasn't really added to the leg elements until around 2013.
There are also examples of legitimate accessories having no logo on them as well.


I have a 16x16 stud clear base plate. Where is it from? I found another grab bag treasure. I ended up with a 16x16 stud clear(ish) base plate. A quick look at bricklink gave me a no items found message. I'd like to know which set(s) this piece can be found in as I have grand plans in mind.

Any of these three sets

(AKA:
6162-1 A World of LEGO Mosaic 4 in 1
6163-1 A World of LEGO Mosaic 9 in 1
852676 Travel Game - Multi Game Pack 9-in-1)

Probably.

Bricklink hint: just search for a size, like "16 x 16". "3x3 plate" is fun too.


Which LEGO set is best suited to build robots? My goal is to build some educational robot kits for kids and so I'd like to know if there are any LEGO sets that let you build almost anything or can you only can build the specific model that the package is designed for?

I am looking for general parts to build different sorts of robots but I  do not mind about electronic parts (motors, boards, sensors, etc. as I can build or buy those), I'm really after mechanical parts (gears, axles, beams, etc.).

I do not want pay for moulding and prefer to use something like LEGO parts, but I am unsure which LEGO set will offer the most flexibility to build anything I want?

Also if there are other universal building products other than LEGO that I could use I would be happy to know.

Your question is not so clear, but it seems like you want to build robots and you want Technic pieces. Then Lego Mindstorms is the product you should buy. While not formally part of the Technic range, it contains only Technic elements in addition to the special electronic Mindstorms parts.

You can also take a look at Lego BOOST, a lightweight variant of Mindstorms, but that is not as much oriented around Technic pieces.

If you don't want the electronics, then you could consider the Bucket Excavator which contains a large number of elements for a fair price. Alternatively maybe you should also look at Meccano.


How many ways can six 8-peg lego blocks of six different colors be combined? I have seen the number quoted as > 650 billion. The quote is from a Danish mathematician, Soren Ehlers. Intuitively, this does not seem correct to me. Any mathematicians/statisticians out there who can help either verify the huge number, or give me a correct number?

To expand on Zhaph's answer, I'm assuming that you have a fixed set of six colors, and each block is one color.

If that's the case, this is a simple combination problem on top of the orientation problem.  Since there are six colors and six bricks, there are 6! ways to assign those six colors to the six bricks, or 720 ways.

Now, we apply this combination to our orientation, and get:

  915,103,765 orientations x 720 color combination/orientation = 658,874,710,800 combinations


Lego remote controlled cargo train not working I've helped my son put together the Cargo Train set (60052) but now we can't get the remote control to work.

It all looks like it's been assembled correctly with new batteries put in, but it doesn't move.

The best way to solve this type of problem is to break it down and isolate the fault.

You might find that it is easier to remove the Power Functions components from the model for some of the following:

Check all connections. Disconnect each cable and re-connect everything. Ensure that the plugs are the right way around (they don't sit right if not) and that they are pushed on properly.
Check that none of the cables are damaged.
Connect the battery box directly to the train motor, bypassing the IR receiver. Does the train work now? If so, the problem is either the remote or the receier. If not, the problem is either the battery box or the motor.

Remote / IR Reciever Problems

If the problem is with the controller / IR receiver:

Make sure that there is nothing blocking the signal between the controller and the IR receiver. Avoid bright sunlight.
Check that both controller and receiver are on the same channel. There is an orange 4-position switch on both the IR receiver and on the controller, and this determines the channel. Leaving one switch alone, try all 4 positions on the other.
Check that the batteries are inserted correctly in the remote. Take them out and put them back in again.
Check that the batteries are aren't worn out. Sometimes even new batteries don't deliver the correct voltage. If you have one, test your batteries with a volt meter. If not, try swapping them with new batteries, or test the batteries in something else to make sure they're OK.
Check that the battery terminals are not corroded. Sometimes corrosion isn't obvious. Try taking the batteries out and putting them back in again, or twisting them around until they may contact.
You may be able to check that the controller is sending a signal. Although you can't see the flashes of IR light yourself, you may find that you can use a digital camera (such as a mobile phone camera) to see the flashes of light when you use the controls on the controller.

These images are from the LEGO web site, which contains more information on both the controller and IR receiver:

Battery Box / Motor Problems

Check the batteries in the battery box, following steps 3-5 above. The little green light should come on when they're OK and the battery box is switched on (the green button is the on-off switch).

There is a great description of the battery box on the LEGO web site, which might help explain things better than I can. This picture is from that site:

If All Else Fails

Contact LEGO customer services. They'll be deligted to help.


Conductive "App Brick" without human contact This may not be entirely LEGO-related, but more related to touch screen technology.

I'd like the LEGO app brick (http://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-6103777) to register a touch on a touch screen even if I'm not touching the brick. I'd like to put a LEGO construction with such bricks at the bottom on the screen, and register a touch event.

Is that at all possible?

If you are planing on physically touching the brick that will then touch the screen then you could use a trick similar to that used by capacitive gloves

There just needs to be a conductive medium between your finger and the screen so you could add a thin strip of copper tape or anything metallic to bridge the gap between your finger and the touch screen that is created by the insulation of the plastic brick.


Turn on LEGO Mindstorms robot remotely I'm thinking to build a robot using either NXT or EV3, then I can control it remotely via WiFi or Bluetooth from my office! It's not difficult to write the controlling codes, but how can I turn the robot on remotely? Any suggestion please?

I know for a fact (from reading the EV3 schematics), the only way to turn on an EV3 is by pressing the center button.

Here are some ideas to work around this issue:

Create another robot that presses the power button.
Create a mechanical device that causes the center button to be pressed all of the time, then create a mechanism to switch battery power.
Solder wires in parallel with the center button and attach this to a device, such as a relay, that can operate the center button electrically.


Is there a way to change the Lego NXT sensor polling frequency? I am using LEGO NXT 2.0 with the native NXT flowchart-style programming environment, I would love to be able to poll the sensors more frequently. (In particular, it seems that the light sensor is polled very infrequently, only about once or twice per second, and this limits the speed of a line-following robot I can build)

Is there a way to change the LEGO NXT sensor polling frequency using the LEGO software?

I am looking for a way to do this using the LEGO software, I realize that there is a way using MS robotics.

Most sensors have the capability of sending you notifications or updates as the value of their sensor changes. This is accomplished by repeatedly contacting the NXT brick and querying the sensor. The polling frequency allows you to configure for each sensor how often this is done.
In most cases, you may leave this value set to 0, which indicates the default polling frequency. However, there may be times when you wish to get sensor reading back from one sensor more often. In this case, you can adjust the polling frequency, which is specified in milliseconds (1/1000 second).

from Device Services: Microsoft Robotics on msdn
The article goes on to suggest the range within which this can be effective.


NXT Bluetooth "Failed!" when turning on When I attempt to turn on my bluetooth, the response on the display after about 5 seconds is "Failed!"  Then I'm sent back to the main menu.

I've reset the unit and updated to latest firmware (1.31) to no avail.

I'm curious about the "doomsday" button on the inside of the battery compartment--you have to remove a battery to push it (thus the unit is not powered up if you push it by accident), so it obviously could cause significant issues if it is pressed.  I am an electronics tech--I know what to do to power it up and press the button, but there is no reference to what it is there for, so the little voice of reason says, "don't."

Thanks!

--Lamafozzy

The hidden button under the NXT battery seems to be a reset button, which has to be pressed for 7 seconds to have any effects. I assume it resets the brick in its factory condition, but I didn't find any specific documentation from LEGO on it.

However, there was an issue a few years back which caused the brick to freeze and click permanently (which was called the "NXT Click of Death"); and the solution included a hard reset using that button. (It's just one out of many pages on the subject, by the way)

Will this solve your Bluetooth issue? I don't know. If there's a problem with your firmware, then it's possible, since you'll need to reflash one anyway (since it will be reset to factory settings). Maybe trying alternate firmwares might shed some light on your brick's condition, too.

If that doesn't solve it, I would advise to contact the mindstorms customer support - worst case scenario, they establish your NXT brick is indeed defective, and they'll probably provide you a replacement.


What is the writing on this map tile, originally from Indiana Jones sets? I have this LEGO piece that is a map. It appears to be a map of the Middle East, specifically Israel and Jordan. It also has some writing on it. Any idea what the writing is of? It is a 2x2 tile.

I have this piece, and I don't believe there is enough detail in the printing to see what this says. I'm also fairly certain this isn't intended to be actual text, but just to look like words. Here's a higher resolution image of that piece:

I believe there is too much bleed to make out words at this scale. Mine certainly isn't legible even under high magnification.

However, there is a clue as to what this piece was meant to say if there were proper text printed on it. This appears to be a page from the diary prop from Indiana Jones: The Last Crusade. I believe that TLG based the printing for this part off of the following map:

This map is seen in the DVD special features for The Last Crusade, and is known as the "Map with no names".

Again, I don't believe this is meant be the actual text, particularly because this piece appeared later in unlicensed sets, so it isn't just an Indiana Jones part.


Large Lego Ninjago package, no box and no instructions, many red and black pieces These packages were all unopened. Only package number five came with a Ninjago mini figure.

Could someone possibly be able to get me the box information so I can look up the instructions!

Given the red quarter domes, I'm fairly certain the bricks are from this set:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=70615-1


What all fits into 4532 "Container, Cupboard"? On Bricklink, the entry for 4532 (a container) lists several parts that fit, but it currently doesn't even list 4536 (a drawer). What else fits into 4532? Better yet, what are some "illegal" techniques that can be used with 4532? Is there something that can be used as a flat panel in conjunction with a single 4536?

The door that is listed as compatible can be attached with its handle inside to make a smooth surface at the front. It could become hard to open however.


What electrical contact material is used for PF Connectors? I'm designing my own PF electrical connector and I want to have the same functional characteristics as the original Lego brick.

Could you please let me know which electrical contact material is used in the original brick?

The material is most likely aluminum or tinned copper, here is why:

Most LEGOs are made in Denmark, the country of origin, with other various quantities made in mexico, Taiwan, and other factories around the world. Denmark is a huge exporter of electrical generators (see wikipedia). Making generators requires a good amount of aluminum and copper to make, especially if the generator has a build in power transmission. I would be willing to bet that the same materials that are available to make generators would also be available to make LEGOs, copper and aluminum. I'm leaning towards tinned copper because of the luster in the pictures, but I couldn't tell you for sure, and LEGO doesn't provide a datasheet.


How can I invert the direction of blocks in a structure? I have a structure with some blocks facing in the 'normal' direction:

 nn  nn  nn  nn
|  ||  ||  ||  |
 --  --  --  --

I would like to somehow connect a layer above this that has the blocks facing the other way so that I end up with:

 --  --  --  --
|  ||  ||  ||  |
 uu  uu  uu  uu

 nn  nn  nn  nn
|  ||  ||  ||  |
 --  --  --  --

How can I achieve this?

It depends on how close they need to be.

The following solution works, if you're happy to have things sticking out around the join:

"Brick 1x2 M. 2 Holes Ø 4,87", [part:32000:7]; There's also a 1x1 brick with a hole, [part:6541:7].

Which could be used as:

For tighter coupling, the Minifig Wrench [part:6246d:0] can also fit over a stud, and is deeper than one stud, allowing two bricks to be inserted:

Respect goes to Erik Amzallag for this one.

I guess it comes down to how you want to hide the join - you could use tiles on the studs that stick out, which wouldn't be possible with the wrench method.


Where can I find "hacker" information about the NXT? I want to know if, and where, is some extremely detailed hacker information on the Mindstorms NXT 2.0.  Things such as the processor, flash memory, and RAM information, GPIO or I2C support, custom firmware mods, maximum amperage draw, motor types (AC or DC, stepper or standard), sensor details (ultrasonic and color), and all of the other things that hacker types love.  Don't get me wrong, the NXT is incredible as it is, but I would be happier getting one knowing that I have some room to mess around with it.

You can start with the Hardware Developer Kit which includes "documentation and schematics for the NXT and related sensors", supplied by The LEGO group to help you "design and develop your own sensors and actuators [motors] that can interact with the NXT".

I've not really looked at the latest ones, but the original O'Reilly Unofficial Guide to LEGO Mindstorms was very good, and covered things like creating your own sensors for The Robotics Invention System - looking at the descriptions of the newer ones, they don't appear to require soldering irons or alternative programming environments :(.


Metal Spring for LEGO MOC Simple Suspension What is the most appropriate dimension (e.g. 20mm x 3.33mm, 5N/mm) of the metal spring for this LEGO MOC Simple Suspension so that it will not cause damage to the LEGO part surrounding it?

The inner space of the spring will be fine if you use an axle (4.8mm)

The outer space of the spring will be fine at 1L (7.8mm) and shouldn't rub against anything.

Here is a mockup of the spacing between everything, as you can see there is ample space between the spring and the orange pin joiners:

This shouldn't be a problem in your case but note that if the axle is rotating and the spring is compressed and is against a pinhole, the groove of that pinhole can cause the spring to uncoil and be damaged.


How to design ackermann steering with lego wheel bearing front? I wanted to use a steering system based on the 11949 part:

But I am not sure how to use it in an ackermann system - I would like to be able to have drive and suspension on the wheel, and this piece seems like the only "reasonable" solution for combining the two into something that is relatively compact + sturdy, so is there any possible way using this piece?

Here is a possible implementation using this exact part: Video .

There are also several other solutions with different pieces if you need more inspiration or explanation: Animated GIF, 4 wheel steering, Top-down view.


Which system is more efficient? I got a few XL power functions motors, and want to combine them to make a racing car. Let's get to right to the question:

Which one save the most torque power? This one...

...or this one?

PS: It is okay if you warn me that even with three XL motors, the car won't work.

The torque in both versions would be the same.

Your first version just adds 3 of these gears:

The ratio between them is 1:1 so it will be the same as if you connect the axle straight into those small gears, as you do in the second image.

(Well, technically speaking, having 3 more gears in the mix will sacrifice some power to friction, but the theory is the same.)

Note, this answer assumes you aren't also running an axle through both these gears in your first image.

If you are, then it simply will not work.


How to simulate Lego Mindstorms programs written in C#? I am going to do some programming for Lego Mindstorms in C# using

http://www.mindsqualls.net/

and have a question. Is there any good simulator to see result of my program without uploading the code to the robot?

Unfortunately, there are no simulators for Lego Mindstorms in C# that fit your requirements. As Sebastian Wahl mentioned, Microsoft Robotics Studio is probably your best bet. Hopefully there will be a tool like this in the future :)


Identify this license plate holder piece Please tell me the name of this piece. I've been looking for it for hours on LDD and have tried searching for it with many names.

I know that you use it for cars and it's a very common piece too.

The source of the picture is this WikiHow article, which contains no further description.

There are two variant of that, which look very similar:

Stud.IO lists them as:

Brick, Modified 2 x 4 - 1 x 4 with Recessed Studs and Thick Side Arches
Brick, Modified 2 x 4 - 1 x 4 with Recessed Studs and Thin Side Arches

These can be seen below, thick in red on the left, and thin in blue on the right in the top picture (not a valid colour):

The difference is subtle but most visible on the side of the bottom, forward facing stud - the picture from the wikihow article appears to be using the Thin variant.


What year did the minicon "micro BrickCon" first appear at "BrickCon"? It seems like minicons (a minicon is a LEGO display consisting of minilander figures looking at miniland scale tables populated by microscale MOCs) are popping up everywhere lately.

The last known sighting was in Melbourne, so the theme has officially gone global. Before it became a theme at LEGO conventions across North America, and now the world.

What year did the first micro BrickCon go on display at BrickCon in Seattle?

In the blog of Tom Aplhin he mentions regarding Microscale

  Steve Oakes, a long-time LEGO builder in Seattle area started a tradition 4 years ago to re-create the BrickCon Public Convention at a smaller scale. His display is called “Micro BrickCon”

(Edit: The conversation between Tom and myself was in a loud room with lots of activity. He is correct about everything except the year.)

After building and displaying an 8.5 foot stern paddle wheel ferry boat at BrickCon 2011, I decided it would be easier to build smaller MOCs. I kicked the idea around for a while, and then came up with the concept of making a micro-con. Mariann Ansunuma, former miniland builder at Legoland, and current maker of awesome microscale Lego jewelry, liked the idea and took me under her wing. I built 2 tables, displays and minilanders to display at BrickCon 2012. I was very pleased when Mariann brought along a third table, displays, and minilanders to add to mine.

After the initial Micro BrickCon MOC was displayed, Mariann, who travels to various cons with her vendor booth, took her portion of the MOC and introduced it to cons across America. It has since become a theme featured across N. America, Canada, Germany, and Australia.

In 2012, the MOC was just a MOC. However, micro BrickCon was so well received, in 2013 it became and remains it's own theme. In 2012 7 builders contributed one thing or another to make the MOC better. In 2013 and 2014, 22 builders contributed, and this year, 2015, 29 builders joined in.
                                                                 -Major Stackings


Identifying Vintage LEGO Instructions I bought a box of old LEGO from the charity shop and the instruction booklet is missing the front page so, I’m struggling to find out information on it and how old it is! Can anyone help?!

These are instructions from "LEGO Books - Idea Book #1 or 221", that was released in 1973.

YouTuber BrickTsar uploaded his entire childhood book HERE.

Similar to the LEGO Idea books I had as a kid in the late 80's, these types of books were made with multiple sets in mind.

So, there isn't a focus on one specific set. The focus was you nagging your parents on what was vital for your next birthday.


How can I make a mosaic from a given number of 1x1 bricks and a picture? This question is similar to How can I convert an image's pixels to actual LEGO colors? except that I need to fit a certain number of bricks of a certain colour.

For example, I have 20 white, 28 yellow, 10 orange, 18 red and 24 black (colours listed in increasing darkness) 1x1 bricks and a greyscale 10x10 pixel photo. How can I manipulate the photo so that it shows the 20 brightest pixels in white, next 28 in yellow and so on until the darkest 24 in black? If there is a tie, for example, the 19th, 20th and 21st brightest pixel have the same brightness, it highlights the ties and tells me that two of them should be white and one should be yellow.

Bonus: The above uses a 1-dimensional algorithm, but how can I have a 2-dimensional (or more one)? For example, if I have 10 white, 20 yellow, 30 blue and 40 black 1x1 bricks, and an image with shades of yellow, green and blue, the program should assign the most yellowish greens to yellow bricks (or white/black for brightest/darkest ones) and bluish greens to blue bricks (or white/black for brightest/darkest ones).

In case anyone familiar with JavaScript is interested, I wrote this script (tested in Firefox 19) which lets the user specify the number of tiles (bricks) of each colour and browse for an image file with the same number of pixels.

The luma (brightness) of each pixel is ranked and assigned one of the listed colours. Any ties are arbitrarily assigned to either possible colour (as JavaScript's sort is unstable).

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/55/Mona_Lisa_headcrop.jpg/20px-Mona_Lisa_headcrop.jpg  is an image which fits the example tile count.

 <title>Make mosaic given tile colour count</title>
 <form onSubmit="return false;">
  <textarea id="counts" rows="3" cols="80">// Ordered from darkest to lightest
colours = [ '#000000', '#993300', '#cc0000', '#ff9900', '#ffff00', '#ffffff' ];
tiles   = [       110,        40,        80,        60,       120,        90 ];
tileWidth = tileHeight = 16;</textarea>

  <input type="file" id="file" size="80" />

  <input type="button" value="Go!" onClick="loadImage()" />

  <canvas id="canvas" style="background:#808080;border:2px groove;"></canvas>

 </form>


Can I import existing Lego kits into LEGO Digital Designer? Is there any way to import existing LEGO kits into LDD (LEGO Digital Designer)?

For example, I like to have this set in the LDD and
https://shop.lego.com/en-US/Compact-Tracked-Loader-42032

I know I can download the PDF instructions, and I like to have the model in LDD or any other LEGO 3D designing tool.

The only way to achieve that is to manually build the set in LDD. If you don't want to do it yourself, check the Eurobricks library for sets built in LDD by the LEGO fan community. You can find virtually any set released within the last several years: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/41226-key-topic-official-lego-sets-made-in-ldd/

The set you mentioned is on the list, so all you have to do is download the LDD file. :)


Would LEGO use recycled plastic? I have been studying the application of new recycling technologies because I am concerned with plastic pollution. I have thought of a way to apply new technology differently but the missing piece of the picture was how to find  a company that would be willing to work with our city to apply this technology.

With 9% percent or less of plastics being recycled in America because of sourcing and down-cycle challenges, LEGO is positioned to positively transform the way plastics are used and galvanize support for their brand. It would really just take a single industrial leader, operating at scale to make it happen. Others would follow.

If LEGO could transform the way that plastics were produced, and create living wage jobs, would they?

In other words, do they have any motivation to use recycled plastics, or hire American workers, and if so, what motivations?

The LEGO Group has already created clear sustainability goals.

TLG is currently investing money to try to find sustainable and non-petroleum based ways to design LEGO bricks. Here's some info about the new Sustainable Materials Center that TLG is working on:

http://www.lego.com/en-us/aboutus/news-room/2015/june/sustainable-materials-centre

It sounds like they are investing significant money (1 billion DKK, ~150 million USD) and manpower (100 new employees) into solving this problem. They have also made it clear that they want to keep their focus on product quality while exploring sustainable technologies, so it sounds like whatever new plastics they develop will need to be at least as high quality as ABS.

If you are interested in collaborating with them on this, you'll need to get in touch with TLG directly. This is a fan-moderated FAQ site, so you are unlikely to get a response from a LEGO employee. I'd recommend using the "Contact Us" page on LEGO.com.


Does anybody know the part number of this tile? Does anybody know the part number of this tile? The size is 2x14.
It has an unusual height. It's higher than 1 plate, lower than 2, so it's an exact 1/2 of a brick. See the given picture for the bottom:

That's Train Level Crossing Center Rail Cap Insert 2 x 14 x 2/3. Although as naming suggests it is 2/3 of a brick, so it must be two plates high.

Picture from Bricklink:

And here is a list of 6 sets it was part of.


What Mega Bloks set is this? Purple-ish, roughly egg-shaped vehicle I need the theme and set name please.

This is part of  megaconstrux set # 97110
Covenant Spectre Ambush

from the Halo theme


What is this small space-themed set from possibly the early 90's? I have a bunch of LEGO bricks mixed together.  I recognize a few of them as going together for some small set that I no longer have the instructions for.  I believe I got this set in the early 90's.  The minifigure rode some sort of small contraption.  What set is this?

This is most probably Ice Planet Scooter:


Any way to create a gear+chain, like for a bike? I would like to create a LEGO bike. I can imagine how most of it would work, but i'm stuck at the chain.

I need a way for the turning pedals (at one spot) to cause the wheel (in the back) to spin with them. A design like the classic bike chain would be nice, but something else that does the job would also work.

It would be best if a solution uses standard pieces, but i do have a few special pieces.

It looks like LEGO sells chain and sprockets, don't know if you'd have them lying around though.

You could also try using pulleys instead. If you don't have any of the actual pulleys, take the tread off of two wheels and stretch a rubber band across, that should work too.


Extra pieces in a lot, not sure what to do with them All right so I bought a couple Lego sets of the garage sale all the pieces are there but there's so many extra pieces and they're not just random The pieces that go to these sets is there anyway that you can look up with using a database of some kind to figure out what set all these pieces go to I h

Yes there is. However, it requires two pieces of knowledge:

You need to understand how BrickLink or BrickSet categorize the 10,000+ types of LEGO bricks in existence. This means knowing the difference between a Brick, a Plate and a Tile, understanding the various Modified versions of these basic types etc.
You need to be able to identify pieces in your stash of bricks that are special or not commonly used. The best candidates are bricks with stickers, as stickers are often special to just one set.

Once you have identified one or more unique pieces, look them up and see which sets they came in. Look through the inventory of those sets to confirm you have most of the other pieces in that set as well, and voila: you have found your set.
Next, go to www.lego.com and download the instruction manual for that set, then build the set to verify its completeness.

Note: if one of the stickered pieces contains a car license plate, or any other sticker with a 4 or 5 digit number on it, chances are that that is the set number. Then just validate that other pieces from this set are also in your pile of bricks.


Some LEGO elements not attaching as usual I am building a tank made of purely normal LEGO elements, which means no gears or axles or that type of stuff.

I am trying to attach a 6x6 LEGO plate onto the base for support, but it is not working. I have used pieces from other countries and they all worked fine. The LEGO plate doesn't seem to want to be attached. It is hard to get it to stick, and sometimes a part of that LEGO is sticking out, like it was bent. Do you have any idea why this Lego plate is not being attached as well as others?

Please contact LEGO customer service. They will send you new pieces, and even more importantly, they will make note about the quality issues. The following quote is from the LEGO Ambassador forum in regards to quality issues by Keith Severson, who is the senior manager for community support at LEGO. It is about recent quality problems with another LEGO element (32x32 baseplates), but the same steps apply in your case:

  "The only way quality and engineering review potential issues is through data that is gathered through customer service. Every time a customer (such as yourself) call in it is logged with the specific element. Once that element receives a certain about of issues they will review it. So the best thing you can do is have your LUG members to report this through the system."

In the USA you can call LEGO Customer Service at 1-800-835-4386 8am - 10pm (EST) Monday - Friday and 10am to 6pm (EST) on Saturday and Sunday. If you are in another country, you can check the official LEGO website for phone number and hours of operation.


Seeking HiTechnic Color Sensor V2 control block for EV3-G I'm looking for the EV3-G control block for the HiTechnic Color Sensor V2, previously distributed by HiTechnic (https://www.hitechnic.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?key=NCO1038&preadd=action), apparently now distributed by Modern Robotics (https://modernroboticsinc.com/product/hitechnic-nxt-color-sensor-v2/).

Many websites and online installation guides claim that the block is available from the downloads and support website from the original supplier (https://www.hitechnic.com/downloadnew.php?category=38).  However, that site has been down for at least the past week and perhaps longer.  Emails to both HiTechnic and Modern Robotics have gone unanswered, thus it appears that the sites are no longer maintained.  :-(

A similar question was recently asked and answered (Anyone have the control block for the hitechnic color sensors?), however, the direct download link suggested there (https://www.hitechnic.com/upload/306-Color%20Sensor%20V2.zip) is for the older NXT control block only.  Unfortunately, the NXT block is not compatible with EV3-G and the current EV3 brick.  I'm seeking the EV3 block, not the NXT block.

I hope that someone here can help.

Hitechnic.com now points to modernroboticsinc.com. You can find the Hitechnic EV3 color sensor block here:
https://modernroboticsinc.com/download/hitechnic-ev3-color-sensor-block/
All available downloads are available and searchable here:
https://modernroboticsinc.com/downloads/


Why does the Brickset inventory page incorrectly list a set as including 200 of a part when it actually includes more? One example of this issue would be a set like 42056 that has 516 black Technic pins with friction. Brickset lists it as only having 200. Is this a technical limitation of some kind? What causes this?

This doesn't have anything to do with database limitations or anything like that. Brickset scrapes their inventories from the replacement parts list on LEGO.com:

https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/replacementparts

Normally, you are able to request as many replacement parts as there are parts in the set, so this is the number that Brickset uses for it's inventory count. Unfortunately, the max you can request is 200, so Brickset doesn't list more than 200 of the same part being found in a set.


What does BURP or BURPS stand for? Came across this one a few times (most recently here) where it links to a number of mountain elements:

  you still end up with some neat mini-BURPS and other useful pieces

I've heard variations on "Big Ugly Rock PieceS".

However, I've also seen the term used to describe any large piece that the builder thinks has little reusable value due to its shape being pretty specific to a certain use.  Obviously the mountain pieces are built to look like pieces of rock.  But there's also some tower elements in the Harry Potter sets that often fit description.


How to build a steerable remote-controlled vehicle with just 1 motor? In WeDo 2.0 set there is only 1 motor, which can be remotely switched on and off by using the iPad app (by writing a Scratch program).

Also motor rotating direction can be toggled remotely.

As an inexperienced LEGO builder I wonder if it is possible to build a remote-controlled vehicle out of 280 WeDo 2.0 pieces, which would be steered by changing the motor rotation direction.

I am thinking of having 2 wheels with wide tires in front the vehicle, connected to the motor.

And having a single caster wheel with narrow tire at the back of the vehicle, not connected to the motor.

The caster wheel would roll straight, when the vehicle drives forwards.

But when driving backwards, it would snap to a certain angle.

UPDATE 3:

Found a picture for such a caster wheel in the LEGO Technic Idea Book by Mr. Yoshihito Isogawa:

UPDATE:

I have followed Aaganrmu's suggestion (thank you) and have tried to build a simple vehicle using ratchet instead of caster wheel:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqYQ79SdBpY

Unfortunately, it doesn't work well. There is too much friction - on the axles of all 3 wheels and on the rubber band.

I wonder if experienced LEGO builders can propose a better vehicle out of WeDo 2.0 parts than mine:

And I feel that my Scratch program can be improved too, since it is not very responsive to user input (when touching the 4 green arrows):

UPDATE 2: Got a nice suggestion at Eurobricks forum:

(video authored by Mr. Yoshihito Isogawa again).

UPDATE 4:

Here a good WeDo 2.0 model with steering:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9sd4MxW4YY

This can be done without a caster wheel as well:

Start out with a three wheeled vehicle, with two wheels in the front and one smaller wheel with less traction than the front wheels in the back. All wheels need to be fixed.

One of the front wheels is attached to the motor. This might need to have some gearing to get an appropriate speed.
The other front wheel is unpowered but can only rotate forward by adding a ratchet:

The back wheel is unpowered.

Driving forward the vehicle will more or less move straight, guided by the rear wheel.
Driving backwards the ratchet will engage, stopping one wheel. The vehicle will now turn.


Is it possible to buy a bulk of 1000s of basic bricks (mostly 2x4)? Several years ago I remember being able to walk into toy shops and actually shovel lego bricks into a bag and thus buy them in bulk.  Unfortunately I can't seem to find stores anymore that offer this service.

Is it possible to buy the basic blocks in bulk anywhere online?

The LEGO Store has the Pick-a-Brick service, which allows you to bulk buy elements, up to 999 of any one element apparently.

It's not necessarily the cheapest, for example 2x4's are GBP£0.19 each, so purchasing 999 of them would cost me £189.81 plus shipping - there's no obvious savings/discounts for bulk ordering.

As Refro points out, BrickLink might be a better option: the prices are more variable, but often cheaper than PaB, discounts for bulk purchases can be found from some sellers, but shipping costs might be higher depending on where the seller is based relative to you.


Why do some sets have two different numbers? Possible Duplicate:
  Why did Lego use the same number for two different sets?

For example, 324 Ricky Racoon on his Scooter and 3605 Ricky Racoon and his Scooter appear to be identical in every way but the set number. So why did Lego use two different numbers?

In some cases, there were different numbers for the USA and the rest of the world, but I don't know if that's the case with Ricky Racoon.

LEGO also extended from a 3-digit numbering to a 4-digit numbering around that time, so maybe some sets were renumbered. At the time, LEGO didn't seem to care that much about set numbers (and as you've noted, reused some).


How much does the Luke's Landspeeder (8092) weigh? I am considering buying Luke's Landspeeder (8092).

However, because I will be traveling soon, I would like to know the set's weight first. LEGO.com doesn't list the weight, only the piece count and size, neither of which are too important to me.

So, including the minifigures if possible, what is the weight of the Luke's Landspeeder set?

I just put the box on my balance, and the weight is 275.26 gr.
Yes, I have this in my shop.


I bought a box of used LEGO and found these 4 bags in it No pieces stand out. I see just one minifigure with a red body without anything indicating what it is. Any idea what set it belongs to?

This is set 31025 Mountain Hut from the Creator theme. The Medium Blue window panes are in this set, and then the minifigure head you see in the top right bag identified this set.


What is the selling rate per pound for individual colors? I separated all my LEGO bricks by color so I can get max profit to pay closing costs on my family's home.  Is there a going rate per pound for individual colors?

Colour seperation matters more in which audience will be interested (AFOL's knowing they used some colour(s) more than others vs. parents wanting a pile for their kids) than for price.

Lots of things matter a lot more then the bricks being seperated by colour, some examples:

Whether the bricks have play wear
Whether the bricks have been miscoloured by sunlight
Whether the bricks have been exposed to smoking
The actual selection of bricks - i.e. are they all standard bricks or are they something less common in (some of) the pile(s)
Where you are in the world
...

So we don't have nearly enough information to give a good answer.

They are other questions on the site where people give estimates.


Advanced set for 5.5 years old My son had great success building a lot of Lego models, including complex sets, such as the Family house set.
And I want to meet him with an advanced model, that includes some gears and more functional.

I thought about 3 models, all of them are a little old but I really love them and I don't know which one to buy. The models are 5893, 4993 and 5767.

I'll be glad to receive an advice, which set is most recommended, considering my son's age (5.5) and props of each set.

I'm open to new suggestions.

I'm going to suggest that unless you're getting these sets at their retail price, don't bother getting any of these for a 5 year old. Instead, just get a current set, such as 31017 Sunset Speedster, which is still available at its regular price. Or check out the line of Speed Champions.

My reasoning is that a small child does not care about the vintage of a set and is not completing a collection, so any particular set is equivalent to any other. The sports car model is one that Lego refreshes every so often and there is almost always one available for sale, and you can usually get it at a discount. But all retired sets increase in price on the secondary market and I'd say you are getting zero value for your extra money if you hand this set to a child. They will love the set but not care at all if it's rare or hard to find.

As for how age-appropriate such a set is, it depends on the child. The Creator sets are fairly easy to build, usually. My 5 year old has little difficulty building them, though he has a fair amount of Lego experience. If your son has already built several models, these sets should be fine, even if the ages say 7 or 8 and up. I find that Lego's age recommendations are too conservative for my household, but YMMV.

Addressing your point about wanting to build with gears, etc. Most Creator models have minimal gears involved. Certainly the sports cars do not have working steering or anything like that. Creator sets almost never feature that sort of functionality except on the largest models. When there are moving parts, they are typically just hinged.

If you want something that features actual gears, steering, etc, you need to peruse the Technic line. Most of that is fairly complex. It's aimed at an older audience and I'd wager your 5 year old isn't ready for it - at least, mine wouldn't be. If Technic is too complicated, you might try one of these:

Fairground Mixer

Ferris Wheel

They are large models, fairly expensive, that feature both brick-built devices and mechanical movements. Both can be motorized by adding a motor (sold separately). Both are large sets that display well, but feature lots of play features. The Mixer, especially, is very cleverly constructed. I'd say both are too advanced for a 5 year old, but with a parent's help, and some patience, they should be possible.


Why remote controls are seldom used in Technic sets? (As of Jul 2016) According to this, it mention that currently there are a total of 376 Technic sets. However, this information mention that only 6 of them have the remote control function. This means that only less than 2% of all Technic sets have remote control.

Is there a particular reason(s) why remote control are seldom used in Technic sets?

Many Technic sets are small and wouldn't fit motors or need remote controls.

Beyond that it is an extra expense which they need to leave out to make things available at various price points.  In some cases LEGO makes the motor optional to keep costs for the initial kit lower.  And the remote control adds complexity beyond that.

But the beauty of LEGO is that you're not stuck with their designs.  You can add these features yourself if you're motivated enough.


How to best transfer power at 90 degrees for high torque applications So, I am building a tank model and this is the transmission I have been working on:

Description:
There are two gear pairs for gearing up (16t to 8t gears) and one gear pair for gearing down (worm gear to 8t gear hidden beneath it) for each of the two M motors. The final gear ratio is 1:2 resulting in half the speed and twice (roughly) the torque of the M motors. The grey 24t gears are the ones who transfer motion to the tracks.

Questions:
I would like to know if there is a better way to transfer the power of the two M motors to the 8t gears which are located beneath the worm gears. The problem I have is that the worm gears I use require a lot of gearing up to rotate fast enough (even what I achieved above is not enough). The additional gears result in lost energy and more points that could potentially break. Specifically I want to know if it is possible to achieve similar gear ratios with less gear pairs? Also are there any tips that would help me reduce the size of the above configuration? Is there an entirely different  configuration other than the above which would lead to better results (gear ratio preferably less than 1:2, tougher)? Should I prefer bevel over normal gears? Is it worth it upgrading to two L motors? And lastly do you have any general tips regarding transmission and tank building?

There are plenty of gears designed for 90 degree, search bricklink for "technic gear bevel" and "technic gear crown". There's also the "technic knob wheel", that seems to be used a lot outside technic, but I have a feeling that goes badly with a motor.

In my building the only application for worm gears is to gear things down, with regards to to size you can't beat the solutions it offers. But you're first gearing up to then gear down, that looks silly.


LEGO Plastic Bag - White, Light Grey and Clear Bricks I received a  sealed bag of LEGO with no instructions and I have no idea on how to build things out of it.
When I scanned the QR code on the plastic bag, it gave me a number - 617-2062 but I got no information out of it. Please help to identify the LEGO Plastic Bags as per photo attached.

According to BrickLink, there are only two sets with both that hinge plate and the eyelashes and they're quite similar: 10717 Bricks Bricks Bricks and the almost-identically-named 11717 Bricks Bricks Plates


How were these building instructions from the 1970s produced? Have a look at page 7 of the instructions for set 367, produced in the year 1975 (source: Peeron.com):

How were these instructions produced? Were they hand-drawn or computer-generated? If the latter, which computer system and software were used?

They would have been hand drawn.
Technical illustration used to be a highly skilled job, similar but slightly different to design draughtsmanship.  I can still recall the latter being used about 20 years ago in engineering.  There were tricks to remove some of the repetition (drawings were done on translucent drafting film and could be duplicated optically, and templates and stencils were widely used).  Translucent film also means it was possible to work on an isometric grid behind the drawing.
2D CAD software, while it dates back to the 1950s, only became accessible, though still very expensive, around the time these 3D drawings were produced.  3D CAD/modelling with rendering is a 1990s invention, and now any fool can use it (e.g. me), and it can be made cheap and user-friendly enough to give away (e.g. Lego Digital Designer).  Rendering using something like POV-ray (which can still be used with LDraw) could take days for a single image on a fast PC in the 90s (though you wouldn't need to render like that for these illustrations).
Also, while it's hard to tell with the JPG artefacts and anti-aliasing, if you look closely at say the wheels in panel 8, they're not quite a perfect match; they would be if rendered from the same model.
Here's a picture of what's available at the click of a mouse these days (2020):

I used this 3rd party model of a 2x4 brick and a range of view options in Autodesk Inventor (3D modelling software).  The top right clearly imitates the old manuals, and the style is called "Technical Illustration".  Lego tend to use fairly heavy shading on studs, demonstrating that clarity and style are closely related. Newer instructions use thinner black edges (with better quality printing). The bottom right is suitable for box art but doesn't clearly show the joins between bricks - at a glance the bottom could be a 2x8.  This took less than a minute to render on 1 core of my desktop; 20 years ago it would have taken hours.


Alternative (back of box) builds of 7822 Railway Station - is there an 'official' configuration where the track terminates at the station? I am looking for a scan or photo of the back of the box of the 7822 Railway Station

Background:

As is common with Lego sets, there are a number of alternative builds pictured on the back of the set box and sometimes in the instructions themselves.

Some time ago I found a website with a picture of an alternative build of the 7822 set that was described as an 'alternative build'. Sadly I can't find the picture again but the configuration of the station was such that the train line servicing the station terminated at the platform, and did not continue on though as it does in the main build. It is this configuration in particular that I am interested in.

Known alternative builds:

There are various depictions of other alternative builds available on the internet, one such that shows two different configurations in the same picture is this scene from the back page of the 7834 Level Crossing (Note: The version in the middle of the page on the right may be the one I am interested in, but I can't see the position of the track in that picture.)

The YouTube video 'LEGO 12V Train Dream Layout' shows the alternative build from the top of the 7834 instruction scan at around the 0:20 position in the video opposite another set in the main build configuration.

Answering this question:

I am very happy to receive answers on any of the possible alternative builds for the 7822 Railway Station and make this question a resource for anyone interested in different configurations, but the accepted answer will be for a clear scan or photo of the back of the 7822 box. (It may or may not show the configuration I am thinking of as the mysterious picture on the internet that I am thinking of may or may not have been an 'official Lego created' alternative build).

Here you go: http://goichot.free.fr/lego/7822/8.JPG

Have been looking myself for hours as I have two 7822 sets but no box...


amazon.fr hints that the Boost app will be available on phones? At this moment (end of the year, 2017), the description for Lego Boost on the french amazon site includes the notice:

  Enfin, l'application sera également disponible sur smartphones dès les
  vacances de fin d'année.

(translates to: Finally [it's after the list of compatible tablet Os'],  the application will also be available on smartphones from the end of the year vacation.)

Has anyone read anything about this elsewhere? I'm failing to find anything on google, the LEGO site or the German or UK Amazon sites.

V1.4.4 on Apple App Store state “support for mobile phones”, and it does install fine on iPhones. Finally.

V1.4.3 on the Google Play store also lists "support for mobile phones" in the "What's New" section and can be installed on my Samsung S7.


6216m2 motor found... what to do? I recently found a 6216m2 motor in a jumble of old bricks and such - but
no connection wires.

Firstly, how does this motor compare against all others? As it is a 4.5V motor, it is not listed in philo's list of motor comparisions, but I'd still be interested to know how it compares.
Secondly, would there be much use for it, all comparisions made?
Thirdly, I presume it should be simple enough to get replacement cables and such?

Thanks!

Generally speaking, the 4.5V motors have higher torque than the higher voltage variants, but run at a much lower RPM.  I have never personally tested this particular motor so I can't say specifically.

Utility is in the eyes of the beholder.  For some people, this would be the exact motor they need.  For some, it would be useless.  It's hard to say if it would be useful/less without a specific application.

You can always order the LEGO branded cable/connectors from Bricklink or similar sites.  However, it's quite easy to make your own cabling for the 4.5V motors if you are so inclined.


How steep a grade can a LEGO train go up? I realize this would change based on how much weight it's pulling. How about using an engine pulling 3 cars? I'm guessing that sets available for sale now would have similar power. I have the engines from sets 60052 and 60098.
Thanks for any input you can provide.

I've successfully run a single motor pulling two cars from 7938 and the locomotive all the cars from 79111 up a spiraling incline of two plates per track segment. I terminated the experiment after I ran out of track and table space. If the track was straight I probably could have pulled more weight.


How can the "Bar Holder with Clip" part be used? I'm wondering whether the "bar holder" end of this element (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=11090) can be used as a stud. In other words, would it have enough clutch power to hold e.g. a 1x1 plate? And what about a 1x1 brick?

The reason for asking this question is that I'm looking for an element with a clip on one side and a stud on the other side. Sort of like this element (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2555) but with a stud at the bottom. Any suggestions?

One possible solution might be to use one of the new 1x1 round plates with open studs and a Bar with Clip


How is the corner on Azuma Makoto's LEGO bonsai tree done? I'm looking at doing my own version of Azuma Makoto's bonsai.  I know it will probably not be a 100th as good, but I want to try anyway.  The first step is obviously building a similar base but I'm having trouble figuring out how he built his.  The photos don't make it clear.  I've tried just staggering them as they go up but that doesn't give the same effect.  Here is an album for more reference.

The two corners of the bonsai tray shown in this image appear to be built differently...  I've chosen to do the technique shown on the left.

The best I could do was use various lengths of two-wide bricks and staggered them in a upside-down pyramid shape with 2x2 bricks in the corner.

I was trying to re-create the model from memory, and I forgot to add another row of staggered plates.


How to fix my XL motor? I used the XL motor near water. Now it stopped working. Can someone tell me what I can do to fix it?

You may want to contact the LEGO customer service which will usually provide a replacement motor free of charge.


Can I use the EV3 IR Sensor with a power functions remote? In other words, I want to control my Lego Mindstorms EV3 robot with my Lego
Power Functions remotes. The EV3 has an IR sensor, and the PF remotes are IR Remotes, but will they work together?

The EV3 IR Sensor is compatible with Power Functions8885 remote the but not the 8879 remote.


What did LEGO bricks look like in the past? How did LEGO bricks look like in the olden days?
Can you also show me the bottom of a LEGO brick from the olden days?

The earliest LEGO bricks were made in 1949, and they had completely empty undersides with vertical notches in two of their sides for attaching windows, doors and decorative cardboard inserts:

Then in 1958 (or 1961, depending on the country) the form known today was adopted, with tubes on the bottom and without notches:


Can Lego Remote Control 88010 control Lego Technic Hub 88012? I have been exploring the new Bluetooth Technic smart hubs with the Control+ app and PoweredUp app. I would like to also use a physical remote.

I have the Technic smart hubs that come with the Liebherr 9800. I see this hub with different IDs on Bricklink (88012 and bb0961c01).

Will the train remote 88010 work with the Technic smart hubs 88012 aka bb0961c01?

I see this how-to-connect question, but that is to the train hub 88009.

I got a 42099 too, and found that Power UP App(Current version is 3.6.0) can connect to the Technic smart hub. Click Bluetooth button in Create Mode, and then press the green button on hub. Enjoy yourself:)


Has TLG ever produced bricks without the LEGO branding? Has LEGO ever produced bricks without the LEGO brand name on the parts, the packaging or both?

I'm already aware of the following:

Minitalia. Available in Italy in the 1970s. The bricks were compatible with regular LEGO bricks. They had LEGO branding on the packaging but there was no LEGO logo moulded onto the studs of the bricks.
Modulex. A building system aimed at adults, Modulex bricks are smaller than regular LEGO and incompatible with it. When Modulex became a separate company in 1965, the LEGO logo on the studs was replaced with an "M".
LEGO's earliest bricks were sold under the name Automatic Binding Bricks. They didn't have the LEGO logo on them, and I'm not sure if the LEGO company name was on the packaging.

Were there any others?

The Automatic Binding Bricks were first sold in Denmark in 1949. They were sold both in boxed sets and also loose in special wooden cases at retail stores. During the first year of production, neither the bricks nor the packaging had the LEGO name or logo. Beginning in 1950 the name LEGO was molded into the underside of the bricks, however the original molds without the name were still in use, so "nameless" bricks continued to be sold.

The first boxed sets did not have the LEGO name or logo.

Beginning in 1952, the boxes were marked LEGO Mursten (Mursten means "bricks"). Beginning in 1953, the Automatic Binding Bricks name was dropped and replaced with LEGO Mursten. The bricks were the same, only the name had changed.

In 1955, LEGO produced some 1:87 scale trucks as promotional items used by Esso dealers in Europe. These trucks were marked with the LEGO name on the underside, but were packaged in boxes that had only Esso branding and no LEGO logo or name.

Many modern LEGO pieces are produced without any LEGO logo or name. These are usually small pieces that have no studs or an interior surface large enough to hold the name or logo. Hollow-stud pieces such as the 1x1 round brick are not marked, for example. Neither are Technic lift arms and beams.


How to prevent my connected axles from falling apart? In my EV3 robot, I have two rear axles connected to each other using  this part mounted like this:

[

The problem with this construction is that after a while of driving, the axles disconnect like this:

Is there a sensible way to prevent this from happening?

You can attach couple of half bushes or full bushes on inner side of the axle near Technic beam like on the other side you have done with a gear. If axle is still trying to slide - fill in the entire inner axle part with bushes.

Here is picture of suggested fix. Here you can see extra half bushes added to fix the axle the same way gear fix the other axle from moving outwards.


Does the basic 2 x 4 brick have a common nickname? Some bricks, such as the Erling brick, seem to have common nicknames in the LEGO building community. As the basic 2 x 4 brick appears to be the foundation of the system, it is reasonable to suppose that it would have such a nickname.

Is this the case? If so, what is it called?

It's called a brick.

This may sound like a weird or mocking answer, but when you think about it, it does make sense.

The 2x4 brick the most iconic brick of them all, the one which has started it all. The one for which the first patent has been issued in 1958. The book "50 Years of the LEGO brick" contains 6 of them, and the number of permutation for these 6 bricks has been the classic question to illustrate how endless LEGO construction can be (even LEGO got the answer wrong at first, by the way).

It's the one they use on the cover of collector's guides, it's the one they make bigger.

Face it, it's the brick.


42043 Mercedes Arocs Truck Crane Turntable Sticking I have recently found that the turntable of the crane has been sticking when turning! Having taken apart the crane and investigated the issue, it seems to be the interplay between the turntable's teeth and those of the small black cog: they are not meshing smoothly! The cog moves nicely when turning the turntable, but is stuttering and jamming the other way round (the more useful way)!

Any help would be appreciated!

P.S. any tips on lubricating the yellow pistons?

This is a known problem with that gear combination. It's a flaw with Lego's design of the bevel gears. See this discussion on the EuroBricks forum.

Bevel gears are typically designed to fit with only one other size of bevel gear. Specifically, the cone-shaped pitch of each gear needs to intersect with each other at a single point to ensure smooth operation.

All Lego bevel gears are intentionally designed with a 45-degree pitch so that any gear can mesh with any other. This means that only bevel gears of the same size can actually mesh perfectly, although in most gear combinations, the loose tolerance means the incorrect pitch isn't really noticeable.

However, in extreme cases like the 12-tooth-bevel to 60-tooth-turntable in the Arocs, the gear pitches are so mismatched it creates an extremely "noisy" or "sticky" effect.


Custom EV3 Block: "Unable to compile..." ("string subsection") I am attempting to make a custom block according to the EV3 Block Developer kit (found here). I was able to create a simple block that returns the length of a string. This is what it looks like:

(The above program would correctly display a value of "2" on the screen.)

However, I am running into problems when I try to use the "string subset" block in the dev kit. The following program will not even compile (the text says "GOODBYE CRUEL WORLD"):

I've hunted down the problem as residing in the "string subsection" block: Whenever this block is left out, the code will compile. Is this block not supported in EV3-G?

Edit: Here's the program along with the error:

A temporary fix I found that works: using the provided "gray blobs", there is one named "PBRStringAtIndex" (or something like that) which will indeed compile (EV3 only). This does not address the similar "write at index" issue, and the output is a "byte" (presumably ASCII), not text.

(I will update this answer as I find out more.)


Can anyone tell me what part or set this round Technic piece goes to? I bought a large lot of LEGO and need help identifying this piece and or its set.

That's not the best picture in the world, but it appears to be a Wheel 31mm D. x 15mm Technic, either dark red or reddish-brown.  The dark red variation has appeared in a half-dozen Star Wars sets and two other sets, while the reddish-brown version has appeared in just one set.


Gearing down a PF XL I'm looking for the best way to gear down a Power Function XL.

I need to achieve a very slow output RPM (less than 1-2 RPM). I've tried a 625:1 gear (trough 40:8 gear). Can someone link to a well done gearbox like that? Moreover, how I can make an axle more resistant at high torque (I've tried with brick round 2x2).

The XL motor runs at approximately 220 RPM.  Therefore, the following gearbox from the ELEC 201 class LEGO Design module from Rice should be sufficient:


How do you construct odd-angles on buildings I was thinking of building a model of the famous Castillo de San Marco located in Saint Augustine, Florida. A small bit of research shows that Legoland has a replica (flickr link) and that there are other castle MOCs with similar odd (non-90*) angles.

I saw one person build them with hinge-pieces (like this MOC of Fort George) but that doesn't feel authentic.

My question: how did they build those non-90-degree angled walls and retain the points?

Scale is the obvious answer. The Legoland model is huge, which means you're not seeing the brick-level quantisation as easily (quantisation is most obviously seen in mosaics but that works in 3D too).

Getting the same effect at smaller scales usually means a lot of SNOT and using sloped bricks. These days there is a huge range of slopes available, from 4 high, 1 deep to 1 high, 6 or 8 wide. If you flip those on their side (SNOT) that gives you a wide range of angles. But of course this can be very expensive as you end up using a lot of rare sloped parts. For micromodels this can be the only workable approach, and a carefully selected stack of cheese wedges can look great.

A simpler SNOT approach is to use tiles with hinges to minimise the discontinuities at the corners. Instead of a brick width (5mm) you have 1/3 of a brick height (8/3 mm = ~2.6mm), and it's often possible to move things so that there's no obvious discontinuity, just the tile end that's at 90° rather than the actual angle. If you're building a brick or stonework wall using a lot of 1x2 tiles with 1x1 tiles as the endworks can be very effective, especially if you mix the various shades of grey. Like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/legoarts/5548508462/ Modifying that technique to have a backing plate, hinges, and extending the plates 1 stud past the edge of the plate to reduce the "height" offset works well.

Another approach is to give up on studs altogether and use Technic beams. That gives you rounded corners instead, but can be effective with larger models (but the colour palette is limited and it can be expensive). This allows you to easily build round structures and varying curves.

For smaller curves it's possible to bend Lego walls. If you search for lego circular walls there are a lot of images. The basic technique is to mix in more round elements as the curve gets sharper. I've also seen a Lego wave built this way out of transparent 1x2 plates.


LEGO variant, or is it? I'm in the early stages of sorting through a mothballed childhood collection of over 20,000 pieces mainly dating from about 1980 to 1992, some of which I will keep for my little boy to play within the coming years with a proportion to be sold on to raise funds.

In among it all is a quantity of these which I suspect are not genuine LEGO, but perhaps someone here knows precisely what it is? A lengthy Internet search has so far proved fruitless so I'm hoping for identification here.

Firstly it is perfectly LEGO compatible, the same dimensions. There are no tubes underneath and they have studs that resemble those of Technic beams. Baseplates have a crisscross pattern underneath and window elements with a couple of lugs to aid location.

The plastic seems slightly thinner than the real thing, less flexible, more brittle, with a tinny sound when chucked into a pile. Corners are rather round and the side walls aren't as flat as modern Lego bricks. There are numbers molded into the undersides of the bricks, possibly factory codes.

I've got a bag of several hundred pieces and would part with them if there turned out to be someone collecting them. I've assumed they are probably not made by LEGO unless very early examples but research so far suggests that isn't the case.

At first glance, many of those pieces look very similar to pieces from the 1950s/1960s, and in the 1950s there are some lego sets that use a different type of plastic than ABS (cellulose acetate), along with certain other features I see here, but looking closer at the details and what pieces are "known" in brick databases, there are several details that just don't look quite "right" to be real legos, and I think you're correct in your assessment that these are much more likely be some sort of knock-off brand of unknown vintage.

Toys Period is one of several sites with a database of lego parts and what sets they are in. In their list of lego windows https://www.toysperiod.com/lego-set-reference/parts/windows-and-doors/windows/ I do not see any windows with dimensions 1x6x3 with two panes (with or without glass). There are windows of the same width that are 1x6x2 with one center 2x2 pane and two side 1x2 panes, and 1x6x3 windows with a single pane (both of which I've seen in actual sets as they are fairly common), but not 1.5 stud panes on a 6x3 window. But even looking at the 1x6x3 window that is a single pane, the details still seem wrong. The bottom of the window only has nubs to connect the window every other stud instead of every stud. Every picture I could find of genuine old legos of that vintage either have nubs between every stud, or was completely without nubs on the bottom. And the pattern carved above and below the space for the window "glass" doesn't appear to have the correct groove pattern.

Next, the large green plate. the tops of those studs are hollow (actually, the tops are hollow on all the pieces shown), which is sometimes used in legos, especially modern legos so that they can hold small parts like flames, but usually not on large plates, and having every piece in the set have those kinds of studs would seem incredibly surprising... And although I have seen old lego plates with square holes on the bottom, from the period before they switched to round pegs between studs, the genuine ones I've seen have a single thicker "bar" of plastic between each stud not two parallel strips of plastic between each stud.

And that roof tile that is 3x4x1 is an unusual dimension for a lego roof tile. I'm a bit suspicious that combination, especially with hollow stud tops, will not show up in lego parts databases either. Having a 30 degree slant 3x4x1 with only one row of studs on top would be common, or having a 45 degree slant 2x4x1 would be common...but not two rows of studs on top with a 45 degree slant.

Most of the other pieces in your photos are too blurry to really identify at great detail, but already there just seem to be be too many things "off" about these including other details you mention (aside from the numbers molded into the underside, which is a feature also present in genuine legos of older vintages)


Is it possible to retrive a text file from an NXT? I am on a SeaPerch building team which is starting to use a Vernier Dissolved Oxygen probe, connected to an NXT to log the data. I have a bit of programming experience, but nothing in particular with NXTs (or GUI programming for that matter) and managed to get a very simple program written which logs data collected from the probe to a text file stored on the NXT (there will be no computer available in the field, so everything has to be stored on the NXT).

My problem is, I can't seem to figure out how to get the file from the NXT's memory and copied to a computer. It doesn't seem to be able to be accessed from Windows Explorer as a drive. Is it possible to get files off of it like a flash drive, or would I need to do something else to get the data?

Using Mindstorms NXT software (NXT-G), you can transfer any file from NXT to computer. Open "NXT window" (NXT icon in the lower right corner of interface), then go to "memory" tab. Select a file in NXT and click on "upload" button.

Or - more convenient - you may use "NXT Explorer" feature of BricxCC (in the "tools" menu).


What LEGO set has the biggest box? I know the 2017 LEGO Star Wars Millennium Falcon is the biggest set in terms of piece count, but what is the biggest box a regular set ever came in?

By regular set I mean produced for the mass markets, and not something like The ultimate battle for Chima (just an example, not saying that it is the biggest box).

As far as regular sets go (ie. no furniture or big-boxes like that Chima combo), the current UCS Millennium Falcon does appear to be the largest box by total volume.

75192-1 Millennium Falcon - UCS (2nd edition)

54 x 45 x 39 cm = 94770 cm3

54 x 45 cm = 2430 cm2

The original UCS Millennium Falcon box was actually larger in 2 directions however, though the total volume is smaller.

10179-1 Millennium Falcon - UCS

64.39 x 47.63 x 19.69 cm = 60387.176333 cm3

64.39 x 47.63 cm = 3066.8957 cm2

There appear to be a number of sets that are larger in at-least one direction, see this answer for the longest one identified so-far.


Find out the set(s) a list of parts belongs to? I have gotten some help here before regarding set identifications.  I now need to find the set some parts belong to.  I know how to find this per piece, but i need to search with a list instead.  Reason is that a part may belong to 100 sets, and another part may belong to 200 sets, together though may appear in a few sets.  This process would get much easier to a solution.

Thanks

I would use the rebrickable website for this:

create a custom list (type to build)
browse for the parts and add them to your custom list
go to the custom list
select Built this List
go to the Suggested sets tab.

However, this amount of effort is normally not necessary to identify a set, there is nearly always a less common element in your list and bricklink can be used to list the sets having this element, narrow down manually with the second less common element, etc...


Is there a LEGO Tyre Shop set? Is there a LEGO set of a tyre shop (garage)? In other words, a set with play features where tyres could be disassembled by a tyre-changing machine, with a lift for cars or bikes, and other tools for this kind of work?

If it does, please could you give me the set number?

Assuming you are asking for a set that has play features resembling an auto mechanic's shop, then you have a few options:

The closest is probably 1966 Car Repair Shop.

1966 Car Repair Shop is a 1985 set.  It does not feature a lift, but it does have a jack, and includes a wrench (and other play features) that simulate a mechanic's shop.

Another good choice that's still in production is 4207 City Garage

City Garage has an elevator lift (no mechanic access underneath it), and it has a mechanics shop, including spare tires and tools to work on the cars.  However, it's not as "good" of a shop as 1996.

Lastly, if you're ok with Duplo, the closest set is 3619 Traffic City.

3619 Traffic City features a real working lift and mechanics shop.  However, it also features other play features like 4207 City Garage.


LEGO Set identification? What does this piece go to?  I bought a lot of LEGO pieces with no instructions and think there may be two sets. I have this mask, or head piece, that is part of a set that I want to look up instructions for.

It appears to be part# 64261 from set# 8983, "Vorox".

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=64261&name=Bionicle%20Mask%20Vorox&category=%5BBionicle,%20Kanohi%20Mask%5D#T=C&C=2

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8983-1#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0}

Instructions can be found here:
https://www.lego.com/biassets/bi/4547677.pdf


Does someone know this tire's origin? What set contains this piece? I bought a box of LEGO in a second-hand store for my niece and in it was 4 of these wheels. Can someone help me find it so I can build the rest?

It's Part #32197 - Wheel 81.6 x 34 ZR Three Spoke Swirl. made only for one set.

Set #8448 - Super Street Sensation.


What are the largest LEGO® Power train sets available commercially [Oct 2014] What set(s) are the largest by number of pieces? These sets could be retired or existing.

I am also curious what set(s) have the most rails pieces included.

Right now, the largest commercially available train is the Lego City Cargo Train, Set 60052. It comes in at about 887 pieces. There are 30 rail pieces in this kit. Extra rail pieces are also commercially available through Lego. The 7898-1 cargo train would come in second as far as piece count. Same amount of track as the 60052.


Any way to make this setup "tighter"? I'm trying to build a robotic arm, and I had the following built so that there was the minimum possible movement created by the gear wheel (that connects to the worm).

However, there is still play, where all the pieces are pushed together by the force of the gear wheel the worm drive is connected to... this leave a small (but significant) gap, allowing the cross axel to slide.

Is there any way to build this without the play, as it doesn't help when I'm trying to build an arm with a fairly high level of accuracy?

There are 2 ways to get it tighter. First is to use the new worm gear part:
http://rebrickable.com/parts/15457/Technic-Worm-Gear-2-Axle-Holes

The other is to use an axle with stop. Have the stop on the end which has the worm gear pulling it in. Not sure which end that is, so experimenting would be your best bet.


Which BIONICLE combiner sets do official instructions exist for creating? There is a diversity of BIONICLE combiner sets (sets made by combining multiple individual sets together) for various groups including Toa, Matoran, Bohrok, Rahkshi, Dark Hunters, and a number of Rahi species, listed here. They're encountered in the physical sets, in the comics and even in some of the movies.

Instructions for building some of these combiner sets can be found in the manuals for each of the individual sets used in making them. Which combiner sets are these?

This can be the format we use for a community wiki
"official" name:
Set(s) Release Date:
Set(s) required:
Model Picture:
Link to instructions:
"official" name: Akamai
Set(s) Release Date: 2001~
Set(s) required: Tahu, Onua, and Pohatu(8531)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: n/a
"official" name: Wairuha
Set(s) Release Date: 2001
Set(s) required: Gali(8533), Kopaka(8536), and Lewa(8535)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Mata Nui Cow
Set(s) Release Date: 2001
Set(s) required: Pohatu(8531) and Gali(8533)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: http://www.bzpower.com/Imaging/stories/mukau_instructions.jpg
"official" name: Mata Nui Fishing Bird
Set(s) Release Date: 2002
Set(s) required: Kohrak Va(8551) and Nuhvok Va(8555)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: http://club.lego.com/en-us/BuildIt/BuildingInstructions/fishing.aspx (link now dead)
"official" name: Bohrok Va Kaita 1
Set(s) Release Date: 2001
Set(s) required: Gahlok Va(8550), Kohrak Va(8551) and Lehvak Va(8552)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: n/a
"official" name: Bohrok Va Kaita 2
Set(s) Release Date: 2001
Set(s) required: Pahrak Va(8553), Tahnok Va(8554) and Nuhvok Va(8555)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: n/a
"official" name: Bohrok Kaita Ja
Set(s) Release Date: 2002~
Set(s) required: Lehvak(8564), Kohrak(8565), and Gahlok(8562)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Bohrok Kaita Za
Set(s) Release Date: 2002~
Set(s) required: Bohrok(8561), Tahnok(8563), and Pahrak(8560)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions:
"official" name: Wairuha Nuva
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Gali Nuva(8570), Lewa Nuva(8567), and Kopaka Nuva(8571)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Akamai Nuva
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Tahu Nuva(8572), Onua Nuva(8566), and Pohatu Nuva(8568)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: n/a
"official" name: Bohrok Kaita Ja-Kal
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Lehvak-Kal, Kohrak-Kal, and Gahlok-Kal
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Rahkshi Kaita Za
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Turahk(8592), Lerahk(8589) and Kurahk(8588)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Rahkshi Kaita Vo
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Panrahk(8587), Guurahk(8590) and Vorahk(8591)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A


What do I need to connect an old RCX 2.0 to a computer and is it worth compared to just buying a new one? From a friend I got some Lego, including an old Mindstorms package (RCX 2.0 as I already found out). It's my first time with the Mindstorms "eco system".

I already found out that I need some kind of IR sender for the connection to a computer -- sadly, the original one is missing. Now I'm trying to find out what I actually need to be able to do something with the whole stuff and if it's worth at all to put a lot of effort into it (or if it'd be easier/cheaper to just buy an up-to-date Mindstorms package).

what IR sender should I buy (I saw that the original ones are available for cheap, but if possible I'd like to buy up-to-date or more generic hardware that I can also use with newer Lego systems or ideally also non-Lego "endpoints")
What software do I need in general?
Are drivers (if needed at all) still compatible with up-to-date computer systems?
Do I need some kind of firmware updates for anything?
are the downloads on lego.com (https://www.lego.com/mindstorms/downloads) compatible with RCX?

I'm having access to computers running Windows 10 and Ubuntu (both 64 Bit) if that matters.

Modern hardware/driver support for the RIS is limited, but it's definitely possible to get it working again.

The main obstacle is transmitting programs to the Lego RCX brick. The RIS 2.0 came with a USB IR Tower, but the driver does not work on 64-bit Windows. There is also a Serial-port IR Tower available, which works perfectly if you have a 9-pin serial-to-USB adapter.

Here's what you need to buy (they're all very cheap):

A serial cable (not necessarily a Lego one, any 9-pin serial cable will do)
A Lego serial IR tower (can probably find on Ebay as well)
A USB-to-Serial converter (not necessarily this brand, any basic 9-pin serial to USB should work)
A 9V battery for the serial IR tower.

With the (included) driver installed, the USB-to-Serial will create a virtual COM port in Windows. If it's relevant to you, you can check the number of the COM port in windows Device Manager.

On the software side of things, you can code for the RCX using Java, NQC (C-like syntax, but much simpler), or the original Lego graphical programming language. You don't need to install any Lego software if you plan on going with one of the 3rd-party Java or NQC options.

If you do want the Lego programming software but you don't have the disk, you can download an ISO disk image from this guy's share. The Lego software and its installer ran fine on my machine (64-bit Windows 10), with a small caveat: At the end of the installation process, it attempts to install the USB tower driver. When this happens, you need to go to task manager and KILL the installer process, because when the driver (inevitably) fails the whole installation rolls back. If you're having trouble it might also help to right click on the Setup.exe -> Properties -> Compatibility and run it in compatibility mode for Windows 98.

Inside the Lego software, you should select the Serial IR Tower when prompted because you want it to use the virtual COM port the adapter provides. You can also set the COM port in the Settings from the main menu screen.

When you first install the software it will try to force you to do tutorials before you can actually do the "freestyle" programming. But you can double-click any greyed-out option to enable it.

And as always, if you need more help you can always post back here in Bricks SE. Good luck!


Retrobrite cleaning on old cellulose acetate bricks? Is Retrobrite (cleaning with hydrogen peroxide, oxyclean, sunlight) effective or ineffective or, worse, downright destructive on old cellulose acetate bricks?

My understanding is that method of cleaning is designed for ABS bricks. What if there are cellulose acetate bricks mixed in the collection at random? Will they be harmed?

The yellowing that is common in some colors is caused when a fire retardant that was added to the ABS plastic breaks down under UV light.

One of the elements used in the fire retardant is bromine. When the chemical degrades, bromine atoms can be freed and can make their way to the surface of the brick where they bond with an oxygen molecule (O2) and take on a characteristic brown tint.

The Retrobrite process uses UV light to break the weak bond between the bromine and oxygen and then replaces the oxygen molecule with hydrogen (from the hydrogen peroxide solution). This molecule is colorless, so the brown tint disappears.

Cellulose acetate bricks did not contain the brominated fire retardant chemical and so are not susceptible to the yellowing problem. You will usually find that the older cellulose acetate bricks are brighter and hold their color more consistently than newer bricks that contained the retardant. Modern LEGO bricks no longer contain brominated chemicals.

Hydrogen peroxide can have a bleaching effect on cellulose acetate plastic. As with any bleach, prolonged exposure can damage materials. The solutions of hydrogen peroxide that are sold as household strength are relatively weak and should not significantly damage the plastic for the few hours they are normally in the retrobrite solution.