Average price per weight of new bricks in sets purchased for retail price? What would be a reasonable estimate for the price per pound of pieces purchased for the retail price in sets?  If the weight of a good sample of sets (not including the packaging or instructions) were known then a range of prices could be calculated.

The only number I can come up with now is to take the average price per new brick divided the weight of a brick- if a 2x4 brick were representative (I suspect it weighs more than average), then the price per pound would be around $0.10/2.5g * 453.6 g/lb = $18/lb, or using 2x2 as an average weight maybe around $40 per pound.  The numbers are interesting to compare to used bulk prices, or the cost of new bricks from pick-a-brick/brick wall cups (the cost of those is well documented elsewhere).

The short answer is that for retail sets, anything under $20 USD per pound of actual parts is a great value. $50 USD per pound appears to be fairly common overall.

I calculated this based on the actual part weights of all parts in a set. I only explored recent Classic, Creator, and City sets as these tend to be a good value and use System bricks almost exclusively. I used recommended retail price and didn't account for sales or other deals that can be found on retail sets.

Here's a graph of recent Classic, Creator, and City sets showing that $50 USD is a reasonable median price per pound:

The best value are the Classic bulk brick boxes, and the worst value per pound are the City minifig sets.


Compatibility of maxi sized Mega Bloks Maxi-size Mega Bloks are larger than Duplo. As far as I can tell they have two times the stud pitch and much larger studs:

What, if any, compatibility is there between the maxi-sized Mega Bloks and either Lego elements or the smaller sizes of Mega Bloks?

Yes, maxi sized mega bloks are compatible with LEGO duplo and LEGO system pieces, but only if the duplo piece is 2x2 studs or larger or the LEGO piece is 4x4 or larger. Also, you can only connect LEGO system pieces and duplo pieces to the undersides of maxi size mega bloks.


Does anyone have a picture of the Lego Club alphabet code from Bricks and Pieces magazine? Somwtime maybe in the early eighties, I read a Bricks and Pieces magazine with a small panel showing the brick alphabet code and it would be great to have a picture of this if someone has it.

This code used an apparently random brick construction for each letter of the alphabet, and it would be fun to write messages into MOCs using the code, or to see if anyone else has already done it.

The code was introduced as a puzzle in the spring 1981 issue and is explained in the summer 1981 issue. (Page 7 at the bottom of the page).

the issue can be found found at: http://www.1000steine.com/brickset/miscellaneous/BricksAndPieces/1981-2%20Summer.pdf

And here is the code:

Enjoy!


Can you identify these curved grey parts? Any ideas which set they belong to?

The bigger part looks like 47846 - Cockpit 10 x 4 x 2 Curved, which has been in 7 sets, but only in one in light bluish gray, that set (8096) only contains the two wedges that are quite common, they have part number 41749 and 41750.


Strongest LEGO structure - (2) Floor What is the strongest LEGO box structure?

I am going to build a LEGO computer case. Different from Mike Schropp and greenyouse, I am planing to build an upright case.

(This is a general "strongest LEGO structure" question. Using the structures in building the computer case is just an example of applications.)

To make it more challenging (and more perfect), the case will have handles (like this type) for carrying the whole thing around, and it will have "legs" (like this bar type) to lift the whole case up for ventilation.

For better reference, here is the coordinate notation:

There are 4 parts (for now I can think of) in the case which has to encounter different types of strength challenges:

The pillars (Red)
The floor (dark grey)
The joints (purple)
The handles (yellow)

For the white bricks, they do not require special strengths, do they?

FYI, here are the LEGO dimensions:

Horizontal pitch, or distance between knobs:  8mm.

Vertical pitch / Brick thickness:  9.6mm.

The horizontal tolerance:  0.1mm.

Plate thickness: 3.2mm.

Above is the common information across the 4 questions.

Below is the question for this specific part.

(2) The floor (dark grey)

Someone has done some experiences against the effect of weight on LEGO bricks (results at slide 11). From his experiments, the Flemish structure is a clear winner.

Like the pillar problem, I wonder why not stack plates/bricks up along the X/Y axis, instead of the Z axis?

My suggestion is basically the structure of the pillar rotated clockwise along the Y axis, and extending it along the Y axis.

For those who have not read the pillar section yet, this is simply stacking up plates along the Y axis.

Same as the pillar, there is a risk of the plates separating due to the weight. So I make a "doughnut" to secure the plates.

Here is how they look like together.

I assume using longer plates will be better than short plates, because fewer connecting points, lower risk to separate, isn't it? However, in the presentation mentioned above, the result suggests that a mix of long and short plates has the most strength. Does this theory apply to my "Y axis structure"? And how long and how short combinations will be the best?

In addition, in my "Y axis structure", will using bricks instead of plates be stronger?

However, thing is more difficult here than the pillar. It is because the tension is not only pulled along the X axis. Instead, the weight is applied down the Z axis, and tension is all along the X and Y axis. So I assume this structure, when used as floor, will be a lot weaker than used in the pillar.

Please suggest any of your structure ideas which will be the strongest.

Just like in the other question, I would recommend a Technic frame with more depth than your original idea and some plating on top of it. This project nicely illustrates how to build stable Technic structures using beams in triangle configurations.


Bazooka blast ev3 Mindstorms using Python I would like to shoot balls with the ev3 Lego robot. How can I code it using Python?

Which components do I need for that and which function and motor use ?

ev3dev works pretty well for that purpose, and all you need is a microSD card.

You'll need to use the Motor class. It work with both large and medium motors, and either can be use to shoot balls, so this part will be at your preference.


Problems with New LEGO Cargo Train My son's LEGO Cargo Train worked the first 10 minutes and then stopped. The  batteries are new, Duracell, and both, the remote and the receiver, seem to be ok. Both of them have the green light on. Also they are fixed on the same channel, but the train still doesn't move. What should I do? It was a Christmas Present for my son of 6 years old and now he is a bit disappointed. Help please! Thank you!

I would start by breaking down the problem into a few simple checks:

Take the battery pack out of the engine of the train and press the green button. Does the green LED light turn on? If no, there is likely a problem with either the batteries or the battery housing itself. You might want to take all the batteries out and reinsert them, or rotate the batteries a bit when they are inserted (I have found that this sometimes improves the contact they make).
Put the battery pack back in the train, and connect the train motor directly to the battery pack (i.e. do NOT connect the IR receiver in between the motor and the battery pack). If you press the green button on the battery pack, do the wheels of the train spin? If yes, do they spin fast? If the battery pack refuses to turn the wheels, there might be a problem with the train motor (but there could also be a problem with the charge level of the batteries).
Assuming both the battery pack and the motor work fine, now connect the IR receiver between the battery pack and the motor. Look closely onto which of the two connectors you put the motor connector (red or blue).
Check the remote and make sure it has batteries inserted and that the batteries are inserted in the correct direction. Press one of the red buttons on the remote. This should make the green LED light in the middle of the remote light up. If it doesn't, you have either not inserted the batteries right, or they have come loose, or the remote control is broken.
Using the remote, turn the control knob of either the red or blue control section (depending on where in step 3 you connected the wires) and see if this makes the motor turn. If it does not, try turning the knob further. Also, make sure that the receiver is in direct line of sight from the remote control (you should be able to see the black curved top of the IR receiver from where you are standing with your remote control)
If the wheels still do not turn, check the channel setting of the remote and the IR receiver - they should be the same. Try again to turn the knob once you set them both to the same channel. If that still does not work, try different channel settings (e.g. both on Channel 2, both on Channel 3 etc) - you might have some interference from another IR source.
If after all this the wheels on the train still do not turn, you have a defective motor (it might have burned through because of too much resistance etc.). Try calling LEGO Customer Service (in the US, their number is 1 (800) 835-4386) or visit them online. If you have a LEGO store nearby, you could ask them to assist as well, though all they can do is do an exchange which they may or may not do depending on the state of the unpacked set.

Good luck and let us know what happens ...


Has LEGO ever released a police/law enforcement-themed minidoll? Has LEGO ever released a set with a minidoll portraying a female in a law enforcement career role? I was able to, without much difficulty, modify a CITY police car to seat minidolls, but it is missing someone to drive around Heartlake City and bust drunk drivers and pet abusers.

I've looked at the now-discontinued DC Super Hero Girls (as the equivalent DC Super Heros line has included cop minifigures with some Batman sets), but didn't find anything. I also identified the LEGO Movie 2 figure Sweet Mayhem as an option,

 (Image credit: https://sg.carousell.com/p/po-lego-70830-lego-movie-2-sweet-mayhem-minifigure-doll-tlm116-210508801/ , no relationship)

but in reality she seems to be more of the military aviator type, and in any event does not have anything resembling a badge.

Couldn't find specific police officer digs, but we can cobble one together until LEGO makes one, cough, official...

We're using the following two images as visual templates to see what we kinda want our finished product to look like.

Note: Police hat vs. Equestrian hat.  We can only choose one.

The Part Recipe List:

Part# 92254pb01 - Mini Doll, Hair Combo, Hair with Hat, Long Ponytail, Side Bangs, Hole
in Back with Black Horse Riding Helmet Pattern.

Part# 15530pb01 - Minifigure, Headgear Hat, Police with Gold Badge (printed) Pattern.

Part# 36904 - Mini Doll, Head Friends with Sand Blue Eyes, Red Lips and Smirk
Pattern.

Part# FTMpb003c01 - Torso Mini Doll Friends Bright Light Blue Polo Shirt with Dark Blue
Sailboat Pattern, Light Flesh Arms with Hands with Bright Light Blue
Short Sleeves Pattern.

Part# 61482 - Minifigure, Utensil Handcuffs.

 Part# 3069bpb260 - Tile 1 x 2 with Groove with Silver Police Badge with '2101' and ID Pattern.

Part # 92253c00pb41 - Mini Doll Friends Hips and Trousers with Back Pockets with Sand Green
Vertical Stripes and Light Flesh Feet Pattern.

Part# 92253c00pb05 - Mini Doll Friends Hips and Trousers with Back
Pockets with Tan Shoes Pattern.


Where to get bulk GBC soccer balls? I am running a middle school robotics club, and this year we are focusing on building a Great Ball Contraption. One problem I'm having is acquiring the balls. On BrickLink, the discontinued soccer balls are going for nearly $1 each, and I figure we'll need about 200.

Any ideas?

You should research if there is an RLUG (Recognized Lego users group) active near where you live. These are groups of LEGO fans for which the LEGO company provides various levels of support.

Often they have the means to buy LEGO directly from the LEGO company through the LUGBULK program. The program allows the members of the LUG to buy LEGO in bulk directly from the LEGO company itself at a discount rate.

I have in the past succeeded in purchasing a reasonable amount of soccer balls this way (among various other elements).

However, there is only a narrow time frame in which you are able to register for the program and it takes nearly a year until the lugbulk is delivered, sorted and sent to the various members. I'm not sure if the registration is still open or already closed. At least the final selection of items hasn't happened yet AFAIK, so perhaps your RLUG can still select the elements as a favor...


What is the purpose of this plate with door rail? I'm looking at the this piece:

Is this piece some kind of a track on which you can build stuff that slides? I see it in sets as a decorative piece from time to time. What does "door rail" even refer to?

These pieces are frequently used for decoration now, but they were originally used for sliding doors, particularly on train sets. Here's one of the first uses from set 7838 in 1983:

While they could be used in structures, these were frequently used for putting doors on the train cars themselves:

These parts can also be used to create tracks for other things that need to slide as shown in Container Loading Crane (7823):

This class of part also has a 2xn variety that now allows whole 1xn bricks to slide within it:

This is useful for building sliding doors and walls that are a full module wide. Here's an example from 31009:


Replacement stickers Can I purchase a sheet of stickers for 4643 Power Boat Transporter?  My son got the item as a gift and a friend of his put the stickers on wrong and he is very upset about it.

Since the set is still being produced, you can call Lego Customer Service at 1-800-835-4386, and they will most likely be able to help you.

Failing that, the BrickLink website is a popular place to buy replacement parts. Here's the link for the sticker sheet:
http://www.bricklink.com/search.asp?itemID=102237

It looks like there are a handful of sellers in the US selling the stickers for $1-$2. Registration on the site is easy, and most of the sellers accept PayPal.


Does the Lego Mindstorms EV3 software work on macOS High Sierra? Will there be issues with the software, or will it work properly on macOS High Sierra?

My Mac: Retina MacBook Pro 13", Early 2015

I've upgraded to High Sierra already. I just tried loading a large/complex program in the educational version of the EV3 software and sending it to the EV3 with both Bluetooth and USB. So, it looks like there are at least not any major issues.


How I can program a solar panel heliostat? I want to make a program for an EV3 solar heliostat.

It consists of two motors and a color sensor. I want it to follow the light. The station is fixed.

EV3SolarStation pdf

As far as I see, you have two possible ways of accomplishing this, given that you have already built an Altazimuth mount or any other two-dimension mount from the two motors that can hold the color sensor and point it in any direction.

Calculation

This is the harder way but it grants neater results. It involves taking a precise measurement of the device's location and orientation, setting up a known orientation for both motors as zero, and porting a known solar-tracking algorithm to the EV3 (like this or this). The resulting setup then must not be shut down, moved or rotated since the control of the motors is done by an algorithm which only takes into account the starting conditions (spatial and temporal) and the elapsed time. The accuracy of the EV3 internal clock may also factor into the precision if the project is to be left running for a long time. As an added bonus, you don't need the color sensor at all.

Using iterative methods

This approach requires a lot less intial setup but offers a not-so polished end result. The basic premise is using the color sensor to get an estimation of the amount of the light incoming from the current direction, then comparing it with the measurement(s) from some other direction(s), finally turning toward the higher value.

There are two problems to be solved here: first, the current position of the Sun (or its equivalent if you are indoors) must be found among all possible orientations. This is an example of the mathematical operation known as finding the global maxima of a two-dimensional function on a constrained range, where the two input dimensions are the altitude and the azimuth and the output is the measured amount of light coming from the given direction.

Then, the software must account for the inevitable changes due to the relative movement of the Sun in the sky. Since you have chosen this way and not the first (Calculation), you can not know in advance which direction the Sun will move in. So you can only attempt to find it again after a set amount of time or after the measured brightness drops to (or by) a specified amount.

There are countless ways this approach can be fine-tuned, depending on the precision of the motors, the precision, update rate and measuring range of the sensor, the amount of location and orientation information known beforehand, the required precision of the resulting system, the allowed complexity of the software, etc.

The most basic and a very ineffective system would consist of the following pseudocode:

repeat forever:
    oldBrightness = read(colorSensor)
    movementXAxis = getRandom(-10, 10) // decide on a random direction to turn to
    movementYAxis = getRandom(-10, 10)
    moveXAxis(movementXAxis)           // turn to the new direction
    moveYAxis(movementYAxis)
    newBrightness = read(colorSensor)
    if(newBrightness < oldBrightness)  // if the new direction is worse than the old
        moveXAxis(-movementXAxis)      // then turn back to the old direction
        moveYAxis(-movementYAxis)
    wait(someTime)                     // bask in the sun for a while :)

This of course can be updated with more advanced logic, including but not limited to

paying attention to the amount of difference between the old and new measurements
moving first in larger steps to get a coarse direction and then refine it further with smaller steps
staying pointed in a direction longer if the brightness is higher there
moving continuously in one direction while the brightness is increasing and stopping when it starts to fall
storing directions and corresponding measurements to create a 2D function which can be analysed using mathematical methods to find the best result
storing historical data to predict and account for changes in the long run
(but by now you are practically in the complexity region of the Calculation-way)
etc.

Consult the relevant Wikipedia page for some advanced reading material and as a starting point if you are interested in learning more about the applicable algorithms.


Which set is this 2017 bag 3 with dark red and grey pieces from? I'm trying to find out what set this is from.  I'm having a really hard time looking this up QR code 6171967.

Judging from the minifig torso and the selection of pieces in the bag I believe you have bag 3 from set 76104 The Hulkbuster Smash-Up from 2018.


Instructions on small car, came with Technic Race Car, circa 1986 When I was about 10 (so, about 1986), I had a Technic race car (formula-1 like), and the instructions had an alternate thing you could make. It was just a small car, with rack and pinion steering.

I must have made it 100s of times, and would like to find the instructions again, to make it now. I don't have the race car kit, but I probably do have enough LEGO to make the smaller car.

I've tried to work out what the original kit was, but can't locate it.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks, Brock

Your best bet is probably to browse the list of Technic sets on Brickset (sort by year of release, ascending).

There aren't that many before 1990 so it should be easy to find, one which sounds a bit like what you describe is 8865 Test Car from 1988.


Can Lego Education WeDo 2.0 be controlled without using the app? I would like to use WeDo 2.0 creations with a simple controller that would turn the motor on/off as in the Lego Education Simple and Powered Machines. Is this possible in WeDo 2.0 or do you have to use the app ?

This is not possible currently using any of the hardware and software provided officially by TLG. However, there are several solutions that might work for you if you have a spare Arduino or Raspberry Pi around and are willing to do a little programming.
If you aren't aware, all of the Powered Up elements communicate via a Bluetooth protocol that TLG provides documentation for. There are several open source projects that make use of the API to interact with Powered Up devices.
If you have an Arduino available, you could try the Legoino project. This is capable of interacting with both Powered Up remotes and Powered Up hubs, so you can program it to interface between the two and provide remove control. Here's a video showing that setup in action controlling Boost:

If you have a Raspberry Pi or spare computer around, you might be more interested node-poweredup or pylgbst.


Selling custom LEGO image mosaics using original LEGO bricks without breaking LEGO's Fair-Use Policy We have designed software and an accompanying site to convert images into 48x48 (or larger) LEGO mosaics; we use the current LEGO color palette, use image dithering to improve color availability, since the LEGO palette is rather limited (an example of dithering: putting red/blue blocks in a checkerboard pattern creates the illusion of purple at a distance), and finally improve the coverage of regions of the same color by using clustering to cover such regions using, e.g., 2x2 or 2x4 plates instead of only 1x1 plates (since, for example, a 2x4 plate is cheaper than eight 1x1 plates).

We searched and saw that others have been doing something like this as well, e.g., Brixels and Pic-A-Brick on Kickstarter, but these projects either use monochrome 1x1 plates (Brixels) or don't provide the actual bricks, only instructions (Pic-A-Brick). So our idea still seems feasible.

A problem is ordering the correct plates in the correct color per order in a cheap and straightforward way (although this could initially be done through PAB), so we contacted LEGO, explained our idea, and asked if they could provide us with a more straightforward/cheaper way of ordering. To be clear: BrickLink is too cumbersome given fluctuating brick availability/prices and multiple shipping fees when ordering through multiple vendors, and stocking up on LEGO K-boxes is economically infeasible given the "color x plate size" combinations that are needed (each K box only contains a brick of a single size and color).

LEGO's response: our idea would/could be in violation of LEGO's Fair-Use Policy (FUP), and we might want to talk to an IP lawyer before proceeding. We don't fully understand this; if we clearly state (at the top of our page and well visible) that our product is not created by the LEGO company, that we are not affiliated with the LEGO company, and that we only use official LEGO bricks (bought, e.g., through PAB) to create our own end product (the mosaic) without using the LEGO logo anywhere, how is that a breach of the FUP? If I build, e.g., a computer using parts of different vendors, I can still sell it as my own brand of computer, as is done by many vendors/computer stores. The same holds for cars and many other machines. How would this be any different from using LEGO blocks as "ingredients" for a product that one wants to sell? Let's make it even more explicit: Brickmania seems to be doing exactly the same thing: commercially selling custom LEGO kits (war-related; something which LEGO itself doesn't do) using actual LEGO bricks (no knock-offs) and they seem to be allowed to do so (by the way, they do a good job as far as making clear that their products are not produced by the LEGO company goes).

So it has become quite unclear to us if something like this is or isn't allowed (the initial response by LEGO read as a standard response sent to anyone who might be breaching the FUP - but we somehow doubt if this is really the case for us). If we make abundantly clear that our product isn't created by the LEGO company and if we follow the rules when it comes to (not) using the LEGO logo, licensed brand names, etc., shouldn't that be enough?

P.S.

We don't want to use knock-offs and understand that LEGO needs to protect its own brand, but by providing a response like this, we have (ironically) been considering using clone bricks (if possible), while we'd actually like to use quality LEGO bricks that customers can mix with their existing bricks.

First of all, if you are serious about this business, go to an IP lawyer who can take this up for you and give you a much more confident answer than the bunch of us LEGO fans can :)

LEGO's Fair Use Policy is located here.

Secondly, you might want to read the perspective in this thread on Bricksetforum. Lots of interesting points of view, and, decent information about what you should be able to show, and what LEGO's claimed and likely actual trademark rights are.

Finally, did you talk with that IP lawyer yet as per my first point? hint hint


Is there a good way to build a dome on the top of a building? How can I build a dome on top of a building, similar to a state capital or something similar?

The building has a base of 16x24 studs.

As a dome is typically a hemisphere, this topic about building spheres might be very useful for you. There's also an automatic tool to construct spheres that you could use to get an ldraw-plan.


What sets have been named in a punny way? I heard speculation that set 40358 "Bean There, Donut That" is the only set that LEGO ever produced where the name of the set is also a joke.  Is that true?
Or are there other sets names that contain a pun or double meaning?

Not a great pun, but the 2016 advent calendar was:

40222-1: Christmas Build-Up

Sort-of a pun/double-meaning on LEGO being a building toy, and the set being meant to build-up to Christmas.

The 2017 version also has the same name.


LEGO Minifigures Series 14 Female Ghosts! Do all of the LEGO Minifigures Series 14 Female Ghosts have a smaller, more square-ish neck part?

I checked all of mine, and they the same smaller mark as well.


Identify this minifigure I found this minifigure on the street.

Can anyone help me identify what it is and what set is it from?

The hands were not originally grey, they were in the colour of the head.

The torso for this figure is 973pb0321c02 Torso Town Vest with Pockets and Striped Tie over White Open Collar Shirt Pattern / White Arms / Yellow Hands.

It comes in several minifigures, but none of them are like yours, so I think this is composed of other parts ( a MOC figure) and not directly from a set.


What came first? Print or sticker? Recently I learned that there seems to be no strategy in the LEGO design about when to use stickers and when to use prints in a given set. My question is what LEGO used first to decorate bricks: Prints or stickers?

First I thought, it must have been stickers, but then I found the 360 Ambulance from 1971 with a 1x2 brick with a printed red cross symbol.

The BrickLink Catalog, which is the most comprehensive database of LEGO parts ever made, lists the first official stickers from 1971. They were used in the Homemaker sets to decorate furniture, etc. List of LEGO Stickers Sorted by Year

Interestingly, at the same time (early '70s), the large Homemaker figures had printed faces, but the first minifigures (with no movable legs and arms) had blank faces, and stickers for their torsos.

To find the oldest printed piece, I went through the BrickLink Color Guide, and looked at the colors that have been produced the longest (since 1950). I checked each of these colors, sorted the results by year released, and looked for the first appearance of printed elements.

The first printed pieces that show up are a large selection of street signs and lettered signs produced in 1955. They were mostly printed on white elements, but there are also some printed yellow and red pieces through the 1950s. First White Printed Parts Sorted by Year

In summary, the first decorated parts were printed, but LEGO has been using a combination of stickers and printed pieces since the early 1970s. While this has been the cause of frustration for LEGO fans and collectors who prefer printed parts, it is actually in line with the policies of other toy makers. Mega Bloks (now Mega Construx), Kre-O, Oxford, Playmobil, etc. also have been using both stickers and printed elements in their toy lines.

It's also interesting to note that in the 1970s and 1980s, LEGO released ideas books with sticker sheets, which allowed children to customize their minifigures and other pieces in creative ways. Stickers were considered cool back then, and were extensively used for customization. Nowadays, stickers are viewed more as a sign of a company being cheap and lazy.

It's worth looking at the history of stickers and printed parts through the years and through toy lines, and how they were perceived and used by consumers (especially children). This is just my personal observation, but I believe the recent preference of printed parts has to do with collectors getting interested in children's toys and demanding what they perceive as higher quality. Children who are old enough to manipulate stickers, generally prefer the customization options stickers provide.


What's the name of this curvy looking brick, 2x3 with an overhang What's the name of the brick shown below?

I've searched many sites including BrickLink and Lego itself but to no avail. Help?

EDIT
I think I found the name of this brick: 47456 Slope Brick Round 3 x 2 x 2/3 with Flap and Two Studs, Modified Wing End 2 x 3 x 2/3. Is this correct though?

Bricklink refers to it as 'LegoBrick, Modified 2 x 3 x 2/3 Two Studs, Wing End'.

Lego Shop at Home refers to it as 'Plate w. Bows 2x3½'.


Why are Lego products so expensive in Europe? Comparing a few Lego products at the official online store, I found U.S. prices seem to be consistently around 70% of those in Europe given current currency exchange rates. That's a surprising difference. Given that U.S. import tariffs apply to products manufactured in Europe (such as Lego), one would expect the price difference to be the other way around.

Edit: Found a relevant quote in a book written by Alex Stewart:

  America is by far the cheapest country in the world for buying Lego;
  believe it or not sets are much more expensive in other countries.

What is the primary reason for this price differentiation? Better competition in the U.S.? Lower taxes? More wealthy Lego fans in Europe?

To answer this question, we must first check the accuracy of your observation that "U.S. prices seem to be consistently around 70% of those in Europe given current currency exchange rates."

Using data provided by Brickset, which pulls data from the online listings at shop.lego.com, we can compare the prices of sets released in 2014 that are listed with prices in both USD and EUR.

I downloaded this data and used a spreadsheet to analyze the prices. Using the 2013 average USD to EUR exchange rate of 1.3282465 I converted retail prices from EUR to USD. On average, the retail prices on the US site are 77.06% of the retail prices on the sites where prices are listed in EUR.

So your observation is close to the apparent actual difference in listed prices, although it is closer to 80% than 70% on average.

The member states of the EU each set a value-added tax (VAT) on items sold in those countries. This rate currently varies from 15% (Luxembourg) up to 27% (Hungary). LEGO includes the VAT in the listed price in countries where it is collected. This means the listed retail price is higher than the actual base price of the set. If you assume a VAT rate of 25% and adjust the list prices accordingly, then comparing the USD prices to the EUR prices shows that US list prices are actually about 96% of EUR prices. This is an average - many sets sell at a similar or lower actual base price in Europe than in the US (when expressed in USD).

For example Set 60045 Police Patrol sells for $44.99 USD in the US. It sells for 39.99 EUR in Germany. The VAT in Germany is 19% and today's exchange rate is 1.3398. To get the base price of the set in EUR, divide the list price by 1.19. That gives us a base price of 33.60 EUR. Multiply that by the current exchange rate and the USD price you would pay in Germany for this set is $45.02 - just three cents more.

Here is the data I use in a spreadsheet format, sorted by their prices in USD. The calculated columns on the right show the EUR prices converted to USD and the bases of EUR list prices assuming 25% VAT.


2x2x2 cube with smooth plate on bottom? I have a follow-up to my previous question about building a 6x6x6 smooth-sided cube.

Do these three pieces create a 2x2x2 cube, smooth on top and bottom, and all four sides, with the height exactly the same as the width and the length?

2x2 tile (3068a)
2x2 block (3003)
2x2 modified, inverted (11203)

For completeness, can someone provide a sketch?

AFOL, returning to the LEGO universe. Thanks.

Yes. 1x1 Brick dimensions are 5x5x6 units. 1x1 Plate/Tile dimensions are 5x5x2 units. Since we have the top surface measured 2x2 studs, this brings us to top with 10x10 units in size. From here we need to construct a side of 10 units too. Taking out top and bottom tiles (10-2-2) we are left with 6 units, which is exactly a height of a brick.

Here's an example:


Centering on Stud.io (design software) I'm trying out Stud.io for the first time and I am unsure how to centre a part I want.

I am used to just right clicking on the part to centre it on screen in LEGO Digital Designer, but this won't work on Stud.io as it just brings up options. Is there a way to do this?

You are almost there: Right-click on a part. One of the options is "set as origin". This centers the view on this part. "Reset origin" does exactly that.

Otherwise, navigation is done by rotation (rmouse+move), panning (space+rmouse+move) and zoom (scroll).


Is this a fake LEGO torso? I recently purchased a new 52 Nightwing LEGO minifigure from Bricklink, to replace my damaged one, but I think it may be fake.
I compared the two, and I found a few differences, which I have not seen on a LEGO torso before:

ridges / grooves around the neck
a slimmer print on the neck
and the edge of the torso is a little wider

BUT, there IS a LEGO stamp on the top of the neck.
Can anyone confirm if they have seen this before or if the torso is fake?
Here are the images: The order is real, suspected fake, comparison between torso edges:

I note the printing of the light gray doesn't line up on the sides compared to the dark red texture line. The light gray on the top is in the same position relative to the red printing, but on the questionable torso the light gray printing doesn't continue the dark red printing.
The dark red printing on the questionable torso seems to be in absolutely the correct position; the known torso seems offset a little to the left. Thus the observation that the light grey printing on the sides being out of place.
The light gray printing would be placed in a single pass, so I think your suspicion that this is a fake is not unreasonable, but given the imperfection of the original, I'm not willing to make a definitive call.


Information on this large beige motor w/battery box? I have a LEGO Technic motor with a built in battery box for x3 "AA" batteries (thus 4.5 volts). Could you help me identify it? What set does it belong to and how old is it? Colours are beige and green/grey. Has a red light on top and a white round brick which serves as a control switch. There is a on-off switch at the base, and the numbers 3393 are found at the base.

It's the main module from Record and Play (set 4095):

This part was only included in this set released in 2003. The part contains several motors and some electronics that allow you to record motor movements and then play them back.

Pressing the red button would let you record movements for a maximun of 20 seconds by adjusting the motors and the green button would play back the last recorded movement.


Factories that could make off-patent bricks? I'm quite interested in finding a factory that can produce a small-ish run of high-quality plastic bricks that I can use in my classes and possible to re-sell as stand-alone kits.  I only need a few different shapes, namely 2x4 bricks and 2x2 bricks, which are off-patent.  Does anyone know which factories, other than those owned-by/bound-to LEGO Group, have experience in making LEGO compatible bricks and would likely be open to producing another run?

Background

I run Ascendly.com which runs after school programs to teach grade school kids engineering.  My flagship course, Jr. Structural Engineering, uses LEGO bricks to build structures and to learn about the engineering process.  I only use a few bricks in the course:

2x4 bricks
2x2 bricks
16x32, or larger, baseplates
1x2 bricks (optional)
1x1 bricks (optional)
1x2 45 degree slope (optional)

For any one class, I ensure all of the bricks of a certain size are a consistent and unique color. So, all of my 2x4s would be blue, and all of my 2x2s would be green, for example.  This keeps the students focused on the shape of the structures, makes it easier to see how the other students used their blocks, and avoids worrying about color aesthetics.

Buying bricks in bulk of any specific color is problematic.

Related Question(s):

Where are LEGO parts made?
Are the molds for LEGO bricks maintained in house or is maintanance partly outsourced?
What kind of plastic are LEGO bricks made of?

Update
Just to add some context, I have good relationships with my two local LEGO stores, and they've helped me order about 50 pick-a-brick boxes over the last couple of years, but I'm hoping to find a more reliable and scalable source of building blocks.  Bricklink and LEGO are good sources for now, but I'm wondering if I find can a high-quality brick at 10x my current volume, something I'm positive the stores, and I suspect the LUGs, aren't in a position to accommodate.

I suggest calling Lego customer service (1-800-835-4386) to ask them about a bulk order. Professional "brick artists" like Nathan Sawaya buy their brick directly from Lego. The bulk prices are decent as well. For example, through the LUGbulk program, we got 2x4 bricks for about 9.6 cents each (these sell for $0.30/ea on the Pick-a-brick website).

Also, here is a long list of manufacturers who can do custom ABS injection molding: http://www.thomasnet.com/nsearch.html?which=prod&cov=NA&what=Custom+Injection+Molded+Plastics&heading=95958385&k=abs&x=16&y=9&navsec=modify


Train level crossing using 2021 road plates I'm interested in integrating a train level crossing into a city layout using the new road plates, but I've been struggling to figure out the best way to do this. Here's an example level crossing for reference (7936):

The space between the rails is built up using a plate and a tile to make it even with the rails and 3 plates higher than the surface. Ramps are then used to bring cars up to this level. That works well enough, and it can be used with the previous road baseplates if everything is built on a baseplate, but things are trickier with the new road plates:

These are exactly 2 plates tall, which is why I'm struggling to figure out how to best use them for a level crossing. Here's my naive attempt:

That's not terrible, but the rails are one plate higher than the surface of the road, which certainly isn't ideal. I could obviously raise all the roads up by a plate, but that also seems a bit annoying for a large layout given that all of the City sets expect the road plates to be sitting directly on a table.
I've tried using curve slopes such as 71771:

However for the height to work out the front lip of the slope has to be sitting 1/2 plate below the surface of the road, which also doesn't look great:

This seems like a common use case that TLG would have considered, especially given that they'll likely create a level crossing set at some point using this new system. Am I missing an obvious way to make this work? What is the simplest way to create a flush level crossing using the new road plates?

It occurred to me that you could use 8-stud-long tiles, tilted ~3 degrees, resting on plates at different heights.
Side view from a quick LeoCAD mock-up:

Since clipping the tile to plates at different heights might stress the tile, I suggest to place it resting on top of tiles at different heights.

Edit: After several iterations, I think the ramp should be better made out of 2x4 tiles, resting on top of tiles at the railtrack side, and free-standing at the roadplate side, like so:

That's trivially built with 1x4 tiles, 4x8 plates and 1x8 plates.
There are variations of this kind of ramp, depending on the parts available. For example, the following uses 15068 2x2 Slope, curved instead of tiles. I'm assuming the slope would help the ramp to slide in place a bit better, plus the 2x2 plates help the ramp to not slide alongside the track:

Note, in the image above, how the tiniest bit of yellow plate is visible to the right of the blue slope - that means the assembly is so slightly over 8 studs long (when tilted), which makes it pretty much impossible to use hinges for the ramp.

A similar anti-slide arrangement can be made roadside. I suggest using 32028 1x2 plate with door rail, on both sides of a 1x10 plate, with tiles on top, like so:

I guess that could be easily replaced with "1x1 plate with teeth".


What is the difference between nxtG and nxt 2.0? I'm familiar with NXT 1.0 and 2.0 but I've also seen reference (program samples, etc.) to NXT G. What's the difference?

NXT-G is the graphical programming software that comes with NXT 1.0 (8527) and 2.0 (8547).

The NXT-G software has been improved for the second version of the set which also comes with a few different bricks (including different tyres) and a different box design.


How can I use multiple switch options in Lego Mindstorms EV3 software? What I see is just a simple if/then/else. What I am looking for is to be able to add multiple options, more than yes/no.

I use a motor as a switcher, so I rotate it to some position and measure its degrees to switch the mode of the robot and there are going to be more than 2 modes, like 4-8. How can I do it in an elegant way?

I just discovered this a few days ago. If you use "Numeric" as the input type and switch to tabbed view, you can have a select/case/default type instruction instead of if/then. It also works with text input as well as as some sensors.


What is new about the IR receiver in the 4x4 Crawler 9398? Reading a review of the 4x4 it seems the IR receiver is different from what is included with the trains. From the review all the information we got was "improved CMOS motor driver with lower power loss". Can someone expand on that?

I have done an extensive review of both receivers, see it here.
This other page shows the performance of various motors connected to both receivers.
Note that because of a problem in Power Functions M-motor, the new receiver is not suitable for driving several of them on the same output. See this LEGO official notice.


What is this brown flexible wire with 5 sliding pieces? This is definitely one of the strangest LEGO pieces I've ever found.

The wire caps are both stamped LEGO, one would take half (or quarter) a pin and one a small ball.

What is it and where does it come from?

That's a flex system cable with several clutch changeover elements strung onto it. You can see it on the back of 8002 Destroyer Droid:

That's the only set with those parts in brown, so that's certainly where it came from. You can find all of the parts in the set inventory.

Those cable end elements have never felt quite like LEGO bricks to me, as they are one of the few parts that I feel like I might break when taking them apart.


What does this white lego piece go to? I was building a lego van and saw this on one of my pieces. What does it go to or what set does it come from?

This is Tile 1 x 2 with Groove with 'FOLLOW ME PACE CAR' Pattern from set 8121.


MINDSTORMS 51515 exporting code I have created a MOC that I am going to put on Rebrickable. But the code is so complex I can’t do what I normally do and take a screen shot of the code and they replicate it. Does anyone know how if possible to upload the .lms files I found on my iPad to a Windows computer. I have the transfer of the files from iPad to Windows but I don’t have the ability to use a Windows computer to test opening it.

I don't have an iOS device, but in the Android/ChromeOS version, there is a Share option when you click the ⋮ button next to the project name. You can use this to email the project, send it to Dropbox/OneDrive/Google Drive, etc. The exact options will depend on which other apps you have installed. The shared project (.lms file) can be opened by others on any OS with the same or newer version of the MINDSTORMS programming app.


How can I upload .ev3 files to my brick under macOS Catalina After updating my Mac to macOS Catalina I can no longer run the previous Mindstorms software. The new tool "Mindstorms Home" doesn't allow for opening .ev3 files and uploading them to the brick.
Does anyone know of another way to upload the contents of .ev3 files to the EV3 brick?
Via the Mac or via iOS perhaps?

The only way to compile a .ev3 file to a .rbf file is with the "EV3 Lab" software that is not compatible with macOS 10.15 Catalina.

So your options are:

Run Windows or an older version of macOS in a virtual machine, such as VirtualBox
Find someone that can send you the compiled .rbf file, then use a tool such as ev3duder to transfer the program to the EV3.
Write a new program in the new scratch-based programming software.


Can two Powered Up train motors be plugged into one hub I have set #60198 and it comes with one Powered Up motor. I'm hauling many many cars and one motor isn't enough any more. I see there is a slot for "B" on the hub. Is it possible to plug in another train motor into B and have the train be powered by 2 motors?

Does it even help? Not sure if a second motor would just split the power between the two motors if it worked, or does it draw 2x the battery from the hub?

You can attach second train motor to B output. However it will be controlled independently from motor attached to output A. So you would need to control speed for each motor separately.

Speaking of traction. The key thing here is your train weight. You might consider putting another full battery box (unpowered) into train just to increase weight and get more friction between wheels and the track.


Custom Power Functions plug design I'm considering the possibility of making my own Power Functions-compatible sockets for a project.

I'm designing a module board for a single-board-computer with motor drivers and would like to encase the SBC and module board in a 3D-printed LEGO-compatible case.
Now, my current solution for plugging PF motors to the drivers is to cut PF extension cables and use just half of them, which is expensive (~3€/cable if memory serves), a bit tricky (the wires are fickle), and damaging LEGO products really hurts my feelings.

Some projects, like the SBrick came up with their own PF-compatible socket designs and I'm wondering if there are any readily-available open-hardware socket designs (CAD files and building instructions). I couldn't find any for the moment.

If there's no such thing, I'm willing to design it myself.
I think I could manage to make a working CAD model of the plasic part but I'm looking for suggestions and advice as to how to make the electrical contacts.

This project would ultimately be open-sourced for anybody to reproduce it.

Regards,

I eventually made my design available for download over at Shapeways with a CC BY-NC-SA license (login is required in order to download the STL file).

I tested it at my local maker space in PLA on a µDelta 3D printer.

For the electrical contacts, I tried with pins scavenged from a DIP IC socket like Cyril suggested but the pins were a bit fickle and easily broke. I ended up cutting a sheet of conductive metal I had handy (iron alloy?) in thin bands with a paper cutter, folding the bands in two then using that as the base for the electrical contacts. Paper clips should also work.

The holes in the 3D-printed socket might have to be enlarged a bit, especially in the first layers of the print, with a needle heated with a ligher or dipped in acetone.

The resulting socket works nicely. Only time will tell how good they fare in the long run.

Cutting the metal sheet:

Resulting thin metal band:

The metal band is folded in two:

The folded band is inserted through one of the holes, folded again, then through the opposite hole:

Once the electrical contacts are in place, they are secured with hot glue on the back of the socket:

End result:

Snap!


Does LEGO Digital Designer include part 4539880? Does anyone know if LEGO Digital Designer includes the part 4539880 (often used for housing differentials) ?

Yes, but only one color choice of light bluish gray is available in the default mode.


Which hand is this minifigure extending normally? I remember more than one argument with a friend over which way LEGO minifigures' hands should be oriented to be correct (with the thumb pointed upward/inward, like a human hand's neutral position).

This gentleman is holding his left hand so the rounded side faces down, and his right hand so the rounded side faces up. Is there an officially correct orientation? The peg connecting the hand angles slightly, so I've used both orientations in different situations to keep hands on steering wheels and control panels. Did I risk aggravating any minifigure's carpal tunnel syndrome in doing so?

I personally consider the left one as up-right ever since I was a kid and that's how Lego place all their hands in their promotional pictures:


Is this grey piece a LEGO part? I have this piece in our box of random LEGO. It doesn’t have any studs to connect to so wonder if it’s even a LEGO piece.

Added a picture with other pieces for size perspective.

It is not LEGO but a clip for a Playmobil cannon.

https://www.libble.de/playmobil-7683/p/561335/


What is this 2×8 plate slotted, rectangular studs and a hole in the middle? Please help to identify this part. What is its use?

This is

Part # 767 : Train, Track Sleeper Plate 2 x 8 without Cable Grooves

or

Part# 4166 : Train, Track Sleeper Plate 2 x 8 with Cable Grooves

depending on the cable grooves.

It is used  to attach train tracks


How to store large amounts of bigger bricks? I am aware of this question and of this post blog on Evil Mad Scientist which include a couple of interesting. My issue with the first one is that it is completely unsuitable for larger amounts of bigger bricks (like 2x2, 1x4, 2x4 and so on) and I'd like to avoid stacking presented in the second link.

I thought long and the best idea I had is to get a couple of the Lego Storage bricks in different colors and store particular color in particular box. The problem is, if I had 50 yellow 2x2, 50 yellow 2x3 and 50 yellow 2x4, I'd have hard time finding two 2x8. Not to mention different shapes and sizes of plates, technic bricks with holes and the studless technics.

Perhaps I am asking for impossible, but are there any solutions for storing large amount of bricks, technic bricks, technic studless bricks and plates in different shapes and colors (I am thinking at least 10 per color & shape and 5 per color & shape of the less popular combinations for the starts) in a way which makes it easy to find the exact piece you want? I don't mind mixing different shapes or colors as long as the big volume of one type won't make it too difficult to find others in the same container.

It depends a great deal on your play style and just how much Lego you have, and on what other skills and equipment you have. Using official Lego containers is the most expensive and least flexible option, as they are not really in the storage business. The Technic Briefcase is a good start if you have Technic, but those get pricey if you want more than a couple.

The basic idea is there though - you want a lot of compartments in a few different sizes. Many people buy plastic storage systems, either tackle boxes or drawers (or both), in quantities ranging from "a couple" to "the entire wall of my playroom". Drawers have the advantage that they stack vertically very well, so you can fit a lot of compartments in a small-ish space, and you can get systems that lock together or attach to the wall. Tackle boxes are more portable but harder to get things out of, and organising the boxes can get ugly when you get a lot of them. But I prefer tackle boxes because they give me a wider variety of parts per area of desk, and they're portable.

Since I'm kinda crafty in other ways, I actually built my own tackle box like trays out of wood. That has the advantage that I can customise them exactly how I want them, but obviously I needed a table saw and other tools to build them. Photos here

 (bigger photo)


I need loose minifigures I need the joints of my minifigures to be extremely loose. So loose that they cannot stand for a comedy sketch. I’ve tried almost everything at this point.

This recommendation is a bit time consuming: fiddle about with it a lot and it wil loosen.


What are the measurements of the different Lego instruction booklets? I've noticed that there are at least three different sizes (eg 7.8"x5", 4"x5.8" and 7"x8"). Are there other sizes?

Yes.
There are over 30 types, depending on box size. Some of them look more like books. Some of them are impractical, and haven't been reintroduced since their debut.


Minifig rotatable legs on a stick - what is this? What kind of piece is this? Emboss says "(c)2003 The LEGO Group" and there is a 4303 number below. I browsed Peeron a little but didn't find anything similar.

There are two red handles, one rotates minifig legs back and forth, second one make it straight.

EDIT: fixed part number, it is 4303, small chance for 1303 with overburned 1

The part in question shows up as a "Minifig Gravity Stunt Handle" (part number x817) on Peeron and a "Turntable Spinning with Sports Trick Handle" (item number bb128) on BrickLink. Looks like it appears in two sets:

Snowboard Super Pipe:

Skateboard Vert Park Challenge:


Trying to ID a piece, picture included. 1x4 pillar Looking for the name of the highlighted piece. Any help is very appreciated!

That is a
6070327: Stick Ø3.2 2Mm W/Knob And Tube


Lego Prototype or Megablok? I came across this brick while sorting some Lego I purchased. It's similar to an Electric, Light Bulb Cover (colored globe), but with three major differences. It is a bit wider, the lower lip is a bit higher, and rather than being mostly hollow (to receive a bulb) it is designed to receive a bar. I was unable to find the part when searching Bricklink's trans-red part list.
The inside has what appear to be a part number of 10780 and a mold identifier of 1-8. Given there is no Lego stamp I'm guessing it is a knockoff, but I'd like other opinions as I'm unsure whether prototype bricks are all marked. Given the source of the parts there is a small chance it is a prototype.

The finish of the piece and the numbering scheme reminds me of Megabloks pieces, but it is far from a 100% sure, definitive answer. After half an hour of searching on Google and on the Megabloks website, I have seen no such product that would contain this piece, but based on its apparent age, this information is still not decisive.


Why are there 4 wires leading to the Power Functions LEGO train motor? Does anyone know what the wires do?

If the Power Functions train motors are simple DC only 2 wires would be needed or is it more complex than that?

The LEGO Power Functions connectors have 4 standard designations regardless of the usage:

9V power
"0V" Ground
C1 "control 1"
C2 "control 2"

It seems for motors that the 9V and Ground are unused.  The C1 and C2 are used in combination to pick the motor direction.  If C1 is providing power and C2 is providing ground then the motor goes forward.  If C2 is providing power and C1 is ground then it goes backwards.

The dashed lines are unused at that stage in the flow.


How to upload an XML file to wishlist in bricklink I am trying to upload an XML file with my brick wishlist to BrickLink.
However, even if I follow the instructions on the webpage, it never seems to find the product in the catalogue. If I manually use the search bar to search it in the catalogue however, it will always find it.

I have no idea what is wrong.

The help says:

<INVENTORY>
    <ITEM>
        <ITEMTYPE>P</ITEMTYPE>
        <ITEMID>3622</ITEMID>
        <COLOR>11</COLOR>
    </ITEM>
</INVENTORY>

If I change that to:

<INVENTORY>
    <ITEM>
        <ITEMTYPE>P</ITEMTYPE>
        <ITEMID>3062</ITEMID>
        <COLOR>23</COLOR>
    </ITEM>
</INVENTORY>

It doesn't work. However it does exist: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3062b&ccName=306223

and that with the 6 Digit IDs. What about the other ID types, the ones that can not be broken into colour/ID? e.g.: 4211425

How can I upload my list to Bricklink?

Bricklink is correct - 3062 does not exist. Your link shows 3062b, which DOES exist (Don't ask me why the base number does not exist though :) ). So if you change your XML to

    <INVENTORY>
        <ITEM>
            <ITEMTYPE>P</ITEMTYPE>
            <ITEMID>3062b</ITEMID>
            <COLOR>23</COLOR>
        </ITEM>
    </INVENTORY>

It should load.

I do not know the answer to the second part of your question: 4211425 translates to ITEMID 3460 in color White, and the Catalog knows this, but the wanted list does not :(.


What is the point in having an instruction step with only one part? While building Ninjago City we noticed a lot of steps that included only one part.  The part is just sitting there.  It doesn't get attached to anything.  Whatever gets attached in the next step is not complicated or confusing.  What is the point of these steps?

In going back through the instructions I do find examples where the one piece step makes sense because the initial piece is completely obscured in the next step:

But I also find some that are harder to explain:

And others:

Is there another explanation for this showing up so often in LEGO instructions?

I think it all boils down to simplicity of building instructions, which has increased tremendously through LEGO history. Just compare instructions from older sets (See USS Constellation for example) and recent ones and you'll see how far LEGO has gone in that regards.

Adding less parts per step, or having a full bill of materials per step are the most noticeable improvements; but there are other more subtle ones, such as recoloring of parts (Technic pins for example, but also hidden bircks - see Steamboat Willie for a recent example.

As such, I wouldn't be surprised there are internal rules on what can be done in building instructions, or recommended guidelines; and maybe "step 1 is just one part" is one; or maybe a variation such as "step 1 can't have more than one layer" - thing is, this is an internal LEGO process for which we'll presumably never know the details. Such rules could even depend on the set age range; something allowed in 11= sets might be discouraged in 7+ sets, for example.

Now why does LEGO do this? Keeping in mind their target audience, children, it's a fair guess that they want to make sure kids can build their models smoothly and without frustration, unless they risk giving up which could alienate them from LEGO altogether. I remember being stuck at step 5 when building my first LEGO Technic set, a tractor and that was indeed frustrating. Also, what we adults think children can do can be very different from what they actually will do; I've seen my nephew build a set recently and he was following instructions very very loosely. Which makes it extra hard to create good instructions for them. It's very likely LEGO does test builds with real children for that exact reason: see firsthand what works and what doesn't.

One more note: think one step where only one part is added is weird? What about steps where nothing at all is added?


Working with Curved Bricks I'm hoping to stack curved bricks. There are two slots along the edge to allow the bricks to be set on plates. These become unsightly when the bricks are stacked atop each other. Has anyone seen any techniques to fill these gaps while maintaining the general curve shape?

One possible "technique" could simply be to use the round wall panels of the same diameter:

This part has the same stud recesses at the bottom, but since it's much taller, they won't appear as frequently in your model (or at all if this part alone provides the height that you need).

This obviously has a number of disadvantages, the largest being that you're stuck with less flexibility over the color as you can't use stripes of different colors.

You might also be interested in this answer that provides other ideas for building curved walls.


Minifigures creator? Does a website to create custom minifigs exist?

For exemple, you choose your head (between all official LEGO releases), torso, legs, and hair, and then you can purchase it for the same price as you would if you were buying each of the pieces from a Bricklink seller.

I'm looking for a simple way to create yourself and your friend's avatars in LEGO.

Minifig Generator might work for you.

Or maybe the SigFig Creator.

Flash based, but also fun: Mini-Mizer.

Even better, suggested by rioforce: LEGO Universe Minifig Wizard

I'm sure there are more...

6 hours later...  OH!  you mean like an actual bit of molded plastic.

For that, probably your best bet is using one of the above to find some approximation and then hit up something like Bricklink to buy the proper parts.


Best set to build a tracked vehicle? I want to build a tracked "all-terrain" vehicle myself (MOC), which should have the ability to climb over obstacles. Something alike https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXVO-wbWKxo

Now I'm looking for the technic model which has "the best" tracks to use. What would you recommend? It looks like I have the following options:

http://brickset.com/sets/8043-1/Motorized-Excavator
http://brickset.com/sets/42038-1/Arctic-Truck (is it even possible to combine multiple tracks into a bigger one?)
http://brickset.com/sets/42042-1/Crawler-Crane

What's the recommendation?

All 3 of the sets you listed actually use the same type of tracks, they are Technic, Link Tread Wide with Two Pin Holes #57518.

In my opinion this type would be your best option for driving a robot for a number of reasons:

Since they come as links the tracks can be made any length you want, allowing a lot of flexibility in designing the robot.  These are virtually the only link-based, variable-length tracks LEGO makes that would be suitable for driving a robot.
They are very sturdy and do not break or come undone easily at all.
They fit very securely on the cogs and practically never slip.  This is true even with a moderate degree of slack on the line, making it not necessary to measure the distances between/around the cogs to perfectly match the length of the track.

If you are going to be using these on your robot, you will need some cogs to drive them.  These tracks can be driven with the Technic Tread Sprocket Wheels #57520 (small - 6T) and 57519 (large - 10T).

I would also recommend getting some Technic, Link Tread Attachment, Double, Rubber #14149.  These handy little rubber grips fit on the tracks to give them better traction.  They work especially well on smooth, hard surfaces and for gripping stuff to climb over.


Can't find the LEGO set number for this item, black car with clear light blue canopy and front wheels? What LEGO set number is this item?

I just want to rebuild it after buy buying many boxes LEGO.

This vehicle is missing some pieces, but comes from set 70162 Infearno Interception from the Ultra Agents series. It came out in 2014.


What's the most effective way to align 1x1 tiles? There are a number of sets (e.g., the Farnsworth House and the Parisian Restaurant) that use a field of 1x1 tiles to represent a tiled floor. I have found aligning these pieces such that they are all square to each other to be a challenge. What techniques can I try to achieve a nicely aligned grid of tiles?

For example:

I will sometimes take another piece, i.e. a 1x4, next to the row I'm about to place so it helps align it. Then use the brick separator's flat end to adjust the 1x1 as needed. But I'm a little ocd about the tiles being lined up...


What is the meaning of the available color lists in Bricklink searches? Recent AFOL; figuring out Bricklink.

I'm trying to understand the color lists that are retrieved by searches in Bricklink.

Using Bricklink, I searched for part 3068a (2x2 tile without Groove), and looking at availability, and so forth.

Four categories of color lists are given in Bricklink:

Lots for Sale

On Wanted list

Price Guide info

Known Colors

The colors displayed in these categories puzzle me. For example, how is it possible for a color to be in the "Lots for Sale" list, and not be in the "Known Colors" list? Other possible discrepancies exist in these lists.

What do these lists of colors represent?

Here's a link to the available color lists for part 3068a:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=17085#T=C

For part 3068a, I scraped the data, looking for differences.

Here's a screenshot of part of the results, highlighting a couple of colors that are in lots for sale and are priced, but are not in the known color list:

Lots for Sale - this contains colors in which current part is being listed for sale.

On Wanted list - this shows which colors Bricklink members have added to their "wanted list". It doesn't mean parts in this color have existed. Most likely this being used to add non-existing color to list of wanted items and mark for notification. In such case if wanted item ever to appear for sale (and seller pushed this notification) person with desired item would be notified.

Price Guide info - here you can see sale/price history for each color for the past 6 months as well as items currently listed for sale.

Known Colors - here you can find colors which appear in released sets. Bricks in this list are tied to set inventories produced by community of Bricklink. If there ever be an error with inventory or it has alternative selection of bricks, this is being addressed by fixing or adding an alternative inventory for the same set. Every Bricklink member is welcome to make these fixes.

There could be several reasons why there are more colors for sale than on a list of known colors:

An error is an obvious thing. It is quite easy to make a mistake while listing individual part for sale if it has been produced in similar colors, or has variety in shape (with/without groove). Some shades of Blue and Pink are hard to distinguish. Shape differences aren't always so easy to notice too.
Some parts you see for sale may have been prototypes, test bricks or
produced for specific project (like life-size LEGO Bugatti has a ton of non-existing parts) which may have made their way somehow from the factory. This is not something you could request for as LEGO is trying to not let these items into the market.

One more thing to note. If you find a part in odd color and it isn't listed as HTF (Hard To Find) or Special Color, this is most likely a mistake while listing. Odd parts have quite a high value (depends on availability). Although it doesn't hurt to contact the seller to confirm the case before ordering.


Assorted LEGO and BIONICLE set numbers Lost many of the LEGO parts in a flood.  I've put parts together using best guess so some pictures may represent more than one.

1.

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3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.


How do I erase all old programs using the new scratch type Education software? I have 24 Lego Mindstorms EV3 bricks that have old programs and the bricks are named. I want to erase them so they can be used for new students. In the older Mindstorms software I would just reinstall the firmware from the tools menu. That would easily clear off the bricks. How do I do that with the new scratch type Mindstorms Education software? I don't see that command.

The LEGO Education Website EV3 firmware update page lists two options.

Use the EV3 Device Manager web page. The instructions are not entirely clear, but if you visit the web page with Chrome (recommended), Safari, Edge, or Internet Explorer, click the Available Bricks (0) button and wait a very long time, it will eventually pop up a dialog asking to download and install an EV3 Device Manager program to your computer. The EV3 Connection Manager program runs in the background on your computer and communicates with the EV3 Connection Manager web page in the browser. After installing the separate background program, the web page will be able to connect to your EV3. Then you can use it to update the firmware. It does not appear that this method gives you the option of selecting which firmware file to use. It will likely give you v1.10E, which has some known issues (EV3 acts as USB mass storage device which doesn't always work, and on-brick data log app is missing). But that version should work fine for most uses.

If you have Windows, Chromebook or older macOS (10.14 Mojave or earlier), you can also install the older software and use that. It is available from the LEGO Education retired products download page. (Android and iOS versions might not work due to lack of USB connectivity needed for firmware update.)


What different series are or have there been designed primarly for girls? My daughter loves to play with LEGO sets but she is really wants to play with pink or 'girl' LEGO.  I have ordered a few of the new LEGO Friends sets but I was wondering what other LEGO themes' have been primarly designed for girls?

As you've seen, the LEGO Friends sets are the latest theme aimed primarily at girls, however there are a number of current, and even more historical themes.

Other themes have included:

The Powerpuff Girls (2018 - ) - Uses Minifigs with custom heads, based on the popular Powerpuff Girls license

Elves (2015 - 2018) - Uses Minidolls similar to the Friends sets and continues the pastel colour themes (as of December 2018 all sets listed in the LEGO store are "Retiring Soon").

"Disney Princesses" now just Disney (2014 - ) - The sets based around the Disney Princess licenses use Minidolls as well, with a similar colour palette to Elves and Friends.

Belville (1994 - 2008) - used many standard LEGO bricks, but the figures were much larger than Minifigures.

Clikits (2003 - 2006) - a range of jewellery that can be used with LEGO System elements.

Disney Princess (2012) - a sub-theme within DUPLO based on the popular Disney Princess range, featuring some of your favourite Disney characters.

Friends (2012) - based around the LEGO System elements, however the Mini-dolls are slightly larger than Minifigures.

Homemaker (1971 - 1974) - a very early theme based on LEGO system elements but before the minifigure

Paradisa (1992 - 1997) - a sub-theme of Town, using standard minifigs.

Scala (1979 - 1981, 1997 - 2001) - the original theme used LEGO System elements and was jewellery based, but the more recent theme bears very little resemblance to LEGO System elements, although some plates and other bricks are occasionally used.

Set/Box images from Brickset


Which set is this piece from? Which set is this piece from? It looks like a space ship or something.

The ship looks like a (possibly) slightly altered build of the alien spaceship from ETX Alien Strike.


Two LEGO Powered Up engines with reverse direction I have 2 LEGO 60197 City Passenger Trains and I would like to attach both sets together and run them on the same channel.

The problem with the current disposition of the bogies is that reversing the powered bogie is impractical. Is there a way to invert the direction of one of the engines in order to make them run together: one engine at the front the other at the rear in reverse mode?

Th easiest solution is to just use port "B" on the rear engine and then turn the "B" side remote control panel 180 degrees.  They will then both go the same direction for "up" or "down". You may even find that having the rear motor 1 click lower than the front is advantageous so it isn't pushing too much in turns, trying to buckle the train.


M-Tron spaceships complete list In a old LEGO box lost in my garage I found pieces and instructions of various M-Tron models:

6811 Pulsar Charger
6833 Beacon Tracer
6877 Vector Detector
6896 Celestial Forager
6923 Particle Ionizer
6596 Stellar Recon Voyager

In there any place where I can found the complete list of M-Tron sets? I remember at least a couple more: a big wheeled vehicle (found! 6986 Mega Core Magnetizer) and something else.

Is there any "official list" or something similar?
Thank you!

BrickSet has a list of items in the Space: M-Tron theme.


Can the rcx work without the infrared tower I'm getting a rcx 1.0 or 1.5 and it's not coming with the tower. Can I still program it, using some sort of cable?

No you can't. But IR towers are pretty cheap, especially the older serial ones (you have to add an USB to serial converter to use the latter version on modern computers)


NXT Programming not working I recently got back into NXT stuff (keep in mind I have a NXT 1.0). My screen was broken, but I got it fixed. The software works, but I think the programming doesn't. I tried to make the motor move when I push a button. I downloaded it, and then all it did was jiggle the motor. I tried making a text block, but it didn't work - it just said "Run,Done" in a matter of a split second.

Help me! I really want to program stuff on my computer, and not just a 5 move thing on the NXT itself!

From your description, it seems you use a motor block which just tells the motor to start running. This works, but since your program then comes at an end, all motor activities are stopped immediately.

To solve this, you have to make sure your program doesn't terminate immediately. You could either use a wait block, with a fixed timer after which the program (and motors) will stop, or maybe a block to wait for another condition to happen (button pressed, sensor activated, number of rotations reached,...).

Another solution would be to change your motor block and use a "move" block - which instructs a motor to move for a certain time (the block wait for that time to be completed).

Keep in mind this is all from memory though, I may be wrong on the particulars; but in essence I'm confident your problem is due to your program terminating immediately.


Does longterm storage in a connected state harm the studs/tubes? Does storing bricks in a connected state lessen their longevity?

After researching the question further via some local AFOL, the answer appears to be "No". The tube/stud system remains robust if stored in a connected state. Connectivity issues arise after the studs/tubes begin to wear down due to excessive usage or the elements become cracked. Simply storing a model intact does not lessen the life of the bricks. However, storing LEGO elements out of direct sunlight is recommended.


Looking to identify set from a part Looking to identify set from the following part

That's Support Crane Stand Double and Blue color was used in a single set - Highway Construction (6600)


Are there any army-related LEGO toys? I don't recall ever seen a LEGO tank, a LEGO minifigure figure or any army-related LEGO sets.

I know that there are LEGO toys that imply some level of action/fighting, from police sets, knights, ninjas, etc. I have some LEGO toy guns (from pirate sets, etc.).

But I think I have never seen an army-related LEGO toy or set. The only ones I could mention are related to some franchises like Star Wars, Superheroes or similar.

Are there any army-related LEGO toys and if not if this a conscious decision from the LEGO group?

LEGO does not directly create military sets.

A LEGO representative gave the following reason:

  Are there any chances that Lego will ever start producing modern day warfare Lego, with tanks and helicopters and what not?

  We have a strict policy regarding military models, and therefore, we do not produce tanks, helicopters, etc. While we always support the men and women who serve their country, we prefer to keep the play experiences we provide for children in the realm of fantasy.

  -- Gizmodo - Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Lego

There have been some sets that have been military-based though.

The 7595-1: Army Men on Patrol is based on characters from a movie series which are based a military toy.

A number of Indiana Jones sets have some military people and vehicles that in the movie are considered military vehicles. Notably missing though is the tank from the tank scene in Indiana Jones and The Last Crusade.

The Dino Attack theme (or Dino 2010 internationally) also has a tank and a helicopter modeled after military vehicles.


What is inside the Technic Powered Up XL motor? What components are inside the new Technic Powered Up XL motor? Is it the same as the PF XL motor, except with a different connector?

I was curious about this, and TLG was willing to provide me with one of these motors, so I opened it up. I was able to get the outer shell off by cutting down the 4 tabs on the outside. This motor does not appear to be meant to be opened and put back together. These tabs hold it together very firmly and I wasn't able to move them out of the way without damaging them. The motor does not stay together properly without them.

The light bluish gray front can also be removed from the motor to reveal the internals.

We can see that it uses a double set of planetary gears that are very similar to the PF XL motor.

We can see an additional chip under the drive axle that is not present in PF motors. I believe that this is a rotary encoder to allow the motor to rotate in fixed increments.

There is a black ring around the red drive axle that is magnetic.

For comparison, here is an image from another teardown of the PF XL motor:

We can see that the internal motor and gearing is roughly the same, but the PF version does not include the rotary encoder.


How do I connect part 62113 together to form a ladder? I am looking to build a ladder. I saw part 62113 and was wondering if its possible to connect part 62113? Here's what that part looks like:

There are many ways to connect these together to form something like a ladder. One simple way is to use this fairly common arm element (30377):

This technique is shown on the ladder in the Creator Treehouse (31010):

Here are the relevant instruction steps in case it is hard to see in that photo:


Help identify Mega Bloks pieces - giant blue hands, blue and white striped arms and feet, boards/snowshoes I’ve been sorting through my 19 year old sons Lego and found a few Mega Bloks pieces I can’t identify. Any idea what set these blue and white pieces could be a part of?

The robot could be this one:

But I don't know about those boards. Mega Bloks makes minifig-size boards though.


Lego Wedo 2.0 projects I am new to Lego. Got an ESM for my son when the pandemic started. Now we got a Wedo 2.0. Please suggest me any good set of project instructions or book which will help him to learn.

Instructions and project collections
LEGO's own WeDo project site is a great starting point.
NayaCreations' 65 projects on Brickssafe
Daniele Benedettelli's LEGO WeDo 2.0 Archives contains many projects, some free, some paid.
Youtube collections
Top 20 Wedo 2.0 in 2020 | Lego wedo projects.
22 Amazing creations by Lego Wedo 2.0


Why does my EV3 not have data logging in Brick App menu? I recently purchased a 45544 Educator Mindstorms product. In working through tutorials.  I am at section on data logging, but my Brick Apps menu stops at Brick Program. Data Logging is not on menu

My Brick Info is VO 60, FW V1.07H

The brick currently has the "Home" version of the firmware loaded as indicated by the "H" in 1.07H. You can use the Education version of the desktop EV3 programming software to load the educational version of the firmware (ends in "E"). Data logging is only present in the educational version.


Exact dimensions of studless Technic beams I'm looking for the exact dimensions of the studless Technic beams. I found a number of answers for studded beams but there are some more aspects for the studless beams which are not covered.

I'm especially interested in these parts:

Technic, Liftarm 5 x 7 Open Center Thick
Technic, Liftarm 1 x 9 Thick (or any other length)

Technic, Liftarm 5 x 7 Open Center Thick

Height = 7.86mm
Width = 39.80mm
Length = 55.85mm
Opening width = 24.08mm
Opening length = 40.20mm

Technic, Liftarm 1 x 9 Thick (oriented as shown on Bricklink image):

Height = 7.86mm
Width = 7.44mm
Length = 71.36mm

(measured with digital caliper, precision +/-0.05mm)


XL motor and M motor on IR receiver = same output? I am really puzzled by my small car build with balloon tires (55976).
I tried swapping between an XL and an M (PF) motor, both geared down (up?) to about the same torque (I tested by how sleep a slope it can climb), both motors virtually run the car at the same speed.

I would have thought with the same torque output (just about 3-4 cogs of different sizes in both cases till the differential) the XL would give me much higher speed, at least 1.5 times if not twice, but to the contrary it looked to me like the M motor runs a hair bit faster.

Any ideas guys? I know this is a bit generic, but what could it be?

there are frictions but in both of my cases they should be roughly the same
the XL motor is quite a bit heavier
the IR receiver (v1) has limited output or my batteries don't? (6 AA kind), there is only one more M motor (for steering, so it is off during my test) on the IR receiver, IR receiver attached to the battery box directly
I am using 2 u-joints for the drive axle instead of a cv joint - could that make so much of a difference?

It seems like you're mixing up gear ratio with torque with power. It sounds like you have the following scenario:
 - same gear ratio
 - same overall vehicle
 - two different motors
 - (almost) same final speed

And you're asking why the different motors don't change the speed much. Here's what I know:

The vehicle's mass and internal friction place a load on the motor. This is approximately constant for your vehicle, because practically the difference in mass of the M and XL motors is negligible compared to the total load anyway.
The M motor has a higher unladen speed but a lower overall torque than the XL motor. This means that for the same load, the M motor's speed will be more greatly affected than the XL motor.
So in this case: your vehicle might drop the XL motor from 200 to 150 RPM, but drops the M motor from 600 to 175 RPM, because the M motor is affected more. Coincidentally this particular load drops both motors to almost the same final RPM.
If your vehicle were even more massive, the XL motor's speed would drop, but the M would drop even further, quickly becoming slower than the XL. Add enough weight and eventually that M will drop to 0 RPM while the XL will still be chugging along.


Can you help me identify this LEGO Star Wars ship? Which ship and LEGO model number is this?

This is from
75155-1: Rebel U-wing Fighter

Keypart : 6180pb115L : Tile, Modified 4 x 6 with Studs on Edges with 5 Worn Blue Rectangles and Black Lines on White Background Pattern Model Left Side (Sticker) - Set 75155


Which set does this bag belong to? Blue and clear orange pieces Hi can you please help identify which product this belongs to? Bought this from second hand shop.

The spiked flail is part of a smaller bag - no number however it was in a larger bag with a large number 2 on it, below which are the numbers 304R7:

Hope this helps in identifying it.

Based on the title of the post and Larme’s clarifying comment, you are looking at 59232 Minifig, Weapon Spiked Flail/Mace in a bag with date code 304R7 (which indicates this bag was produced in 2017).

Looking at BrickLink, there are several sets made in 2017 that have this element in Flat Silver (no other color was produced recently). There is one set from 2016 but that set did not come with bags AFAIK. Most are from the Nexo Knights range, but one is from the Super Hero Girls line. If the bag has no large number on it, it must have come from a small set, for example 70361 Macy’s Dropbot Dragon. If the bag does have a large number on it (1, 2, 3 etc) it will be from a larger set. Without more information on what is in the bag besides the Flail, it is impossible to narrow the set down further.

UPDATE: Now that a bag picture has been provided, it is clear this bag belongs to set 70351 Clay’s Falcon Fighter Blaster from the Nexo Knights theme. The Technic connector with hole in the middle in Orange is only in this set (out of all the sets on the list containing the Flail).


Is it possible to use a switch with three conditionals and the color sensor to compare? I am using an EV3 robot.

Is there a way to program it using a switch, or another way, to compare multiple colors?

The goal is to have the robot act as a car and use the color sensor to recognize red to stop, yellow to slow down and green to go in any given order.

Thanks!

Yes, a switch statement is present in EV3-G.
Such statement would look like this:

However, the only colors you can switch against are black, blue, green, yellow, red, white and brown (the basic lego colors). So unfortunately no orange.


What would be a simple trebuchet design at the Minifigure scale? I would like to have a trebuchet design at the Minifigure scale and simple enough for kids 10+ to build.

Note 1: The counter weight can be any non-LEGO heavy object.

Note 2: On top of the standard LEGO bricks, we have a lot of LEGO Technics and my kids are using them all the time. So, Technics are OK in the design.

There are a number of designs on the net that I found with a simple search. Google image search produces images from the merely functional ones like the instructions linked here through to quite realistic looking ones that appear likely to work.

or this big one

The key for a simple, easy to build one is to use wheels on the base. It will shake back and forth when fired which means the structure does not need to be as strong. If you don't do that then the base will need to be similar in size to the arm, as in both pictures above. I am a little surprised that there's so little bracing on the arms of these models, as you can make a much stronger model using a tension member at least on the top of the arm, if not below.

But with Lego the main issue will be the density of the weight. Lego doesn't do high density part, so most people use non-Lego weights. Since you're willing to do that it's easy - the first picture shown has a lead weight, which is why it's hard to see that there's a weight at all.


Where to order custom mini-figs in Europe General question is are there any custom Lego minifig online stores in Europe like there are many in the US ?

In detail:
My friends friend is getting married and she would like to surprise them with an original gift.
She is looking for two specific LEGO minifigs, custom or not but from sellers in Europe because she needs those for next Wednesday. these are the minifigs she is looking for:

Star Wars Queen Amidala
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEGO-Custom-Star-Wars-Queen-Amidala-4-Handmaidens-Invasion-Dress-03dB-/170787423998?pt=Building_Toys_US&hash=item27c3b946fe

Mario
http://images.sodahead.com/polls/001480721/3cea492bc51cc7ffd403f2deaf7cb328_answer_5_xlarge.jpeg

They don't have to be these exact ones but those same characters.

Your friend can get Queen Amidala at several shops based in Europe. Here are all the listings with the country of the shop: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?M=sw387. It might be also worth checking the eBay listings specific for their country.

As far as Mario, LEGO never made an official one, however this UK based store does carry some: http://www.customminifig.co.uk/super-mario-bro-custom-minifig/


How can I catalog my LEGO pieces? I have a fairly large LEGO collection, but not large enough that I can build anything and everything, given instructions. It's already organized quite well, but how can I catalog the pieces I have so I can easily tell whether I can build something?

Rebrickable.com offers the ability to add sets as well as individual pieces to your account.


Programming/running a NXT brick with a dead screen, via PC? I have a NXT set and the control brick has a dead screen. I tried fixing it (resoldered caps, ribbon rub, etc) to no avail. It's dead.

Is there any software that will allow me to program and execute code on the NXT brick without going through the screen options? Is there a way to see the screen on a PC?

There is a tool called NeXTScreen that is available here that will let you see the screen (and remotely control the NXT). There are similar tools for OS X and Linux on the same page.

Once you have this setup, you should be able to use any programming environment that you like. The screen viewing programs should be able to run at the same time as anything else.

For example, you could use the screen viewing program to pair via Bluetooth, then program the NXT using NXT-G and use use the "run" button in NXT-G to start the program remotely.


2x2 plate with round section and rubber bristles? Very strange piece with soft rubber bristles. Bought in a misc box from a garage sale for my son and daughter.

So, the curiosity bug bit me again.  The mysterious part appears to be a Kre-O "Motion Brick" which appeared in various sets. In my research I found that there is a variation (hollow vs. solid) in the studs, as shown in the picture.


How big is a LEGO torso in Microsoft Paint I am trying to print decals, but I don't know how the size of the torso or any other parts are supposed to scale in my Microsoft Paint.

The size won't matter in Paint, what will matter is the resolution of your printer.

For example, if you want to print 1 inch by 1 inch, and your printer is 800 DPI, then you need an 800x800 image.


What is this LEGO Star Wars Disney box with "5 items"? Someone sent me this picture, asking me what this LEGO Star Wars box is.

It apparently doesn't have an item number, and it just says "5 items" ages 6+. What items might it contain?

This was a promotion for holders of the Black VIP Card,
between the 17th and 19th of December LEGO allowed US and Canadian shoppers at their online and bricks and mortar stores the opportunity to add a free branded box containing five polybagged minifigs to their shopping cart if they spent $75 on LEGO Star Wars set

it contains

Hoth Han Solo (5001621)

Stormtrooper Sergeant (5002938)

Admiral Yularen (5002947)

Scarif Stormtrooper (40176)

DJ (40298)

Bricklink

https://www.thebrickfan.com/lego-star-wars-box-5005704-promotion-live-on-shophome/

http://www.rebelscum.com/story/front/LEGO_5005704_Free_Star_Wars_Box_182741


NXT brick not executing programs correctly I have an issue that I am hoping someone might be able to resolve:

We're using Mindstorms in the classroom as part of a STEM program, and have one NXT brick that won't execute programs correctly. The program is a simple move/turn/move program and the program works on other bricks.

It will move forward and seems to attempt the turn but then just stops.

Working programs from other groups also don't execute correctly on this particular brick so we eliminated a programming error.

We have tried soft reset, hard reset, and updated the firmware all with no effect.

I'm hoping it doesn't mean we have one totally useless robot. Any help is appreciated!

There are a few options for the cause of the error. It could be at the microprocessor level, meaning that the execution of the program is wrong, or it could be at the motor driver port, meaning that the NXT tries to drive the motor attached to the specific port but can't due to some electrical failure.

The first option can be eliminated by using other forms of output (e.g. screen) instead or along with the motors, the second can be analyzed by swapping motor ports and testing them individually.

However, in any case you probably won't be able to repair it yourself, so you should contact Lego instead if the existence of the error is certain.


How do I build a sloped roof with a 60° rake? I've seen the sloped roof on the "Winter Village Post Office" and similar using plates, and I want to build a roof with a similar angle:

What should I use to ensure they are well attached?

See the instruction for that set on pages 56-59, 65 and 68/69 for the 3 different roofs of it.

they're using a different technique and different pieces for all of them, so this perfectly shows up some alternatives (technic-like parts for the big roof to the right, blocks with studs on the sides for the small 90°-roofs and 1x1 with clips for the roof to the left).


Are there any good Brick Labels out there? While resorting my large quantity of LEGO bricks, I was wondering if someone had created a library or file that included labels that could be placed on the outside of containers for a large number of common and not-so-common LEGO bricks. They would just need to contain a picture and the part number of the brick at the least, but one that includes the names would be great too!

Brick Architect has labels available for printing. These are designed to be used with a label maker, but there are also full page PDFs available that can be cut out. Here's an example of how they look:


Are Chinese clone brands considered to be safe for children? Is there some kind of official source regarding the safety of bricks made by brands other than LEGO®?
I'm not talking about choking hazard or similar (these are obvious) but heavy metal (lead, ..) or other chemicals in the bricks.
Some brands (Xingbao, CaDa, Mould King, Happy Build, ...) have some really nice sets (original designs of course) and are officially available for purchase in the EU/Germany so they need to have a CE marking and possibly passed other tests like TÜV. But there doesn't seem to be a comprehensive source on which brands to avoid or which ones are considered good.

UPDATE:
I found the page of the "China Toy & Juvenile Products Association" (CTJPA) where several suppliers are listed including Sembo and Qman with their certifications (f.e. EN 71).

Is there some kind of official source regarding the safety of bricks
made by brands other than LEGO®?

As far as I am aware, no.  At least not specifically for construction brick toys.

Some brands (Xingbao, CaDa, Mould King, Happy Build, ...) have some
really nice sets (original designs of course) and are officially
available for purchase in the EU/Germany so they need to have a CE
marking and possibly passed other tests like TÜV.

The CE marking indicates a product has passed health, safety, and environmental protection standards for sale within the European Economic Area. The individual tests vary between industries but are not necessarily a certification of quality. The CE marking is also found on products sold outside the EEA that have been manufactured to EEA standards.
LEGO products adhere to the EU Toy Safety Directive and the US Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act. The approval process involves 'simulating things like children biting, dropping, and stepping on LEGO elements to ensure they don’t break'*
In regards to the concern of chemical safety of LEGO clones, CE is a good indicator that a product passes certain safety criteria, there are of course other certification marks covering different regions.
If a LEGO clone has no credible certification mark does that mean it is unsafe? We simply do not know. The effort to test the safety of all these uncertified brands is too great. Parts vary widely in their colour (each individual colour has a unique chemical composition) as well as material (whether they are hard plastics, soft plastics, transparent, opaque or even glitter plastics in some cases).
You could always clean your new bricks as a precaution, if you suspect that there might be any surface level contamination, such as oil or plastic residue used in the manufacturing process. This will not make a difference to any toxic chemicals in the composition of the bricks.
In summary, if you do not see a certification marking that you can trust, there is no guarantee of safety.


What is this old dark grey LEGO wedge piece with a grooved handle? Here is an odd piece that I have found - any idea what it is? 2x2 plate is shown for scale.

It's a LEGO brick Separator tool. Mostly used to preserve the structural integrity of the human nail, teeth, gum line etc...

Watch the classical use of it here.

Here's a recent post of some unorthodox uses of the Separator tool.