Servo steering with 88004 motor and 8878 battery box? I would like to build a servo steering (not remote controlled). Besides the direct physical connection between the steering wheel and the wheels, the rotation of the steering wheel would be used to control the auxiliary 8878 motor through the 88004 battery. Is it possible to tune it properly to achieve a precise servo steering? Since I don't have the battery box, I cannot do any experiment yet.

The schematic layout would be something like this:

There is a bit of confusion in your question with the part numbers and their location on the diagram. That is, you seem to have them reversed.  Unfortunately I did not have a rechargeable version of the "AAA" battery box to test and prove the concept, but I was fairly certain it would work based on what I know about these battery boxes.  Having a 7-speed variation, in each direction, makes them function very similar to the "Speed Remote" (part# 8879). I can confirm that the Servo Motor (part# 88004) will turn incrementally using this remote.  It therefore seemed reasonable to assume that the Servo Motor, connected directly to a Rechargeable Battery Box (part# 8878), would function in the same manner.  Confident this would work, I sought out and found a couple videos on Youtube that proved this to be true.

The video by Lasse Deleuran: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzQ-B7xfJjQ
The video by Sariel's LEGO® Workshop: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_Gvuzsngg8

So the answer to your question is "kind of", depending on how precise you need, or want, it to be.  The servo moves in 7 increments in each direction, which is a great improvement over a standard battery box or controller.  For your build you would simply "input" the steering wheel shaft into the orange control switch of the Battery Box.  It's position and steering wheel-to-input ratio could be manipulated with gearing if desired.

(screen cap from Sariel's video)

An updated verison of your diagram would look something like this:

The servo motor has axle holes on both sides of the output.  In theory a steering shaft could be ran into the rear of the output to provide the redundancy you're looking for.  Some amount of "play" in the physical connection would likely be needed to allow the wheel to turn just enough to activate the switch.  Because of the nature of the 7 position servo motor, choppy steering is unavoidable.  Full-electric drive-by-wire steering, while not used in passenger vehicles, is very much a "real system".  Not knowing the purpose or application of what you're trying to achieve, it's all just speculation.


Drive motor via Power Functions IR with own power source I want to see if it is possible to drive a Power Functions motor both with variable speed and forward/reverse with my own power source. I am planning to use my own power source, an IR receiver and a motor.

[Power Source] -> [IR Receiver] -> [Motor]

As I understand it, the pin out for Power Functions is as follows:

GND
C1 +/-9v
C2 +/-9v
+9v

Which of the above pins would I need to power to achieve this?

Do I need to provide a constant 9v to the IR receiver for it to function?

Can I rely on the IR receiver to vary the speed of the motor?

What would happen if the IR receiver was powered with less than 9v?

My power source may not always spin fast enough to develop 9v so I am wondering what would happen in this case.

P.S. I am returning to this hobby after 25 years so not entirely up to speed on how all of the new "stuff" fits together!

Which of the above pins would I need to power to achieve this?

You would apply the (-) side of your power source to GND and the (+) side of your power source to +9v.

Do I need to provide a constant 9v to the IR receiver for it to function?

Generally, yes. However, lower voltage or suddenly losing power will not harm the part.

Can I rely on the IR receiver to vary the speed of the motor?

Yes. The IR receiver handles the speed regulation.

What would happen if the IR receiver was powered with less than 9v? My power source may not always spin fast enough to develop 9v so I am wondering what would happen in this case.

I haven't tested this, but I would expect it to lose range, provide less power to the motor, and at some voltage level under 9V completely stop functioning. This shouldn't cause any damage to the part.

It sounds like you are powering this from some type of generator. Make sure that you have protection in place to ensure that the IR reciever isn't power by significantly more than 9V.

Welcome back to the hobby! If you're looking to simply interact with PF motors at a low level, the control lines are simply attached directly to a 9V motor, so you can use those much like the old 9V motors. The basic motors aren't steppers or anything complicated.


How old is this brick? How old would you say this brick is? It has the code 2837 on the inside of it. Any info would be appreciated.

It looks like part of the old 9-Volt motor that was made from 1990 and 2002.

The full thing's part number is listed as 2838 which I assume is the mold ID stamped on dark grey base, while 2837 is the mold ID of the top part.
I don't think it's supposed to come apart, it looks like there are 4 clips on each sides which have been broken off of your piece.


What sizes of bricks (building scales) have carried the Lego brand name? Apart from regular Lego and Duplo, what other sizes of brick have there been that have carried the Lego name? What is the compatibility between the different building scales?

The sizes are:

Regular lego.
Duplo. Intended for younger children than regular Lego. Bigger than regular lego, and compatible with regular lego. Still produced.
Quatro. Intended for younger childern than Duplo. Bigger than Duplo, and compatible with Duplo. No longer produced.
Primo. Intended for babies. Bigger than Quatro, and compatible with Duplo with special interface bricks.
Modulex. Intended for architectural models and commercial signage. Early sets were branded Lego. Not compatible with regular Lego bricks. No longer produced.
Samsonite Jumbo Bricks. Not compatible with regular Lego bricks. No longer produced.
Lego Soft Bricks. Not compatible with regular Lego bricks.


What material is used to make capes and cloth in LEGO sets and where do I get it? It seems like a conspiracy to keep everyone from knowing this.

Custom cape sellers don´t say what it is, the women from the draperies I questioned always say something along the line of "coated propylene" which is no longer in the making because the only company who sold it went bankrupt in 2003.

Even LEGOs customer service can only say "Acrylic matte medium" which apparently is some kind of paint artists use to paint on canvas.

The term acrylic is used for many mediums, like acrylic paint (liquid), acrylic fiber (clothing), acrylic rubber (flexible) and acrylic glass (really hard).

So, as you see, it is possible to make those capes out of a type of acrylic material.


Tools to aid in getting parts from tight spots? As a builder of some semi large scale projects. I find that I can't always get that dropped part because my arm is either not long enough. Or my hand is too big to reach in and get it. Anyone have any suggestions as to tools one could use to get those lost parts?

I use a simple reverse tape at the end of a stick


EV3 force sensor - how to download the block to EV3? I'm a twelfth grade student and I'm studying mechatronics and this is the first time someone from my school has used a force sensor so my teachers do not know how to help me. Can you please tell me: how can I download the force sensor block to EV3?

There is no force sensor in either the commercial or education version of the EV3 set, just the touch sensor for which there are standard blocks.
So I'm going to assume this is a sensor from an an external party. You need a file with extension .ev3b that can be imported in the mindstorms lab by clicking 'Tools' in the menu and then 'import block' which will open a dialog where you can browse for the file, and import the blocks in it.

Now to obtain that .ev3b file, you need to know from which vendor it was bought. Likely the file can be downloaded from their website. We could help you further if you could specify either the vendor or post a picture of the sensor.


How to improve the range of an IR receiver? I am creating a new Truck which contains two IR receivers in the front hood.

With my testing I get a range of about 6 feet (I have also noticed the small Technic motors on the IR receiver are slow when as the distance from the remote increases) until the receiver losses connection.

Is there a way to improve the connection and make the range bigger so my truck can go further than 6 feet?

The best options to improve IR reception is to actually modify both the receiver and the remote (though the remote is more important to upgrade than the receiver).

Common modifications include replacing the transmitter/receiver element with higher range/power components (this may be at the cost of space), or adding reflectors behind the elements  to better send/capture the IR signal (aluminum foil works as a great DIY reflector for closed spaces.


What are these minifigures Does anyone know what these minifigures are or what sets they are from?
Thanks.

The top figure is

sh367 - Justin Hammer
from Set # 76077-1 : Iron Man: Detroit Steel Strikes

for the second figure, see the answer of shea


How to tape something to the bottom of a brick I'm installing lights in my buildings (I'm using Neopixel strips, which have a flat back), and I'm trying to tape the lights to the ceiling. Of course, bricks and plates aren't smooth on the bottom, so double sided tape isn't working out too well.

Can you recommend either:

A plate or similar part with a smooth bottom (I'm familiar with the 2x2 round plate that has a rounded bottom, but I can't think of anything flat)
An alternate method of affixing small parts to the bottom of bricks and plates

Take a look at 11203 - Tile, Modified 2 x 2 Inverted. Works like your 2x2 round plate but is flat at the bottom.


What is inside the LEGO Powered Up M motor? What is inside the M motor in the new Powered Up system? How is it different from the older Power Functions motor?

Let's take a look. The first step to disassembling the motor is removing the small Philips screw on the bottom:

Now there are a pair of gray tabs in the back white section that we need to release. I found it easiest to cut them down with a knife. Once those are free, the white section slides backwards away from the motor. Try to do this gently, as there are several gears inside that may go flying and be difficult to find.

The motor will be left in the back section.

It isn't fixed in place, so you can simply slide it free of the housing.

We can see that the PCB contains only a few very simple components. I believe that the larger element in the middle is a resettable fuse, and the smaller one on the left is a capacitor across the motor pins to minimize electrical noise. The tiny black element on the right is a 2.2kOhm resistor between pins 5 and 6 that allows the hub to identify this as an M motor.

We also have the gray section of the motor:

Down in the end, there is a planetary gearbox that slides out:

The gearbox simply slides open:

It contains two sets of planetary gears:

Overall, this is very similar to the PF M motor with the addition of a small PCB and a resistor to facilitate the component detection used by Powered Up. It's worth noting that this is the same motor used in WeDo 2.0.


Can I download ldraw instructions from Lego Digital Designer? Can I download ldraw instructions from Lego Digital Designer?

Is there a collection of simple examples for my youngsters.
I was thinking of: houses, small animals, simple airplane, simple car, tree, ...
Designs with only basic lego bricks.

Can I download them from Digital Designer to create step-by-step instructions with LDraw?

This would help the children a lot in playing

Note that LEGO Digital Designer can also show you building steps, but the results have been known to be a little odd.

I'm not entirely sure what you're asking here:

Can I export models from LEGO Digital Designer as LDraw files?

Yes, although you will probably need to update the LDraw.xml file that LDD uses to export the parts. Once you've completed your model, chose File | Export and set the "Save as type" to (LDraw-Files (*.ldr)" you should then be able to open the file in MLCad, LEGO Instruction Creator or similar and generate your steps.

Where can I download simple LDD models from?

There is LEGO's own LEGO Digital Designer Gallery (currently being upgraded, so this is an archived instance) - each model has a "Download" link under it to download the .lxf. Other locations are probably available as well.


I have found some torsos from a collection in my dad’s loft; can you identify them? These were in a set but I cannot for the life of me find them despite many searches online and on Bricklink... Any help much appreciated.

The last one is from Indiana Jones
Part# 973pb0452 - Torso Indiana Jones V-Neck with Bow and Flower Pattern
It appears in Marion Ravenwood - White Outfit


Can you identify these Bionicle sets? Also, I have a box of parts. If I display the heads, will that lead me to what these are?

Thanks for any help. My grandson loves to put LEGO parts together so I want to take these apart and have instructions for him.

The two Bionicles on the right are for sure a mix of different parts from different sets, and, without seeing much close-up details, it will be very difficult to tell you which original sets the parts came from. The white piece on the foreground is part of an Exo Force set from 2006 called 7700 Stealth Hunter (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=7700-1).

The set on the left might largely consist of pieces from one specific Bionicle, but I have not been able to identify him yet. However, the whole idea behind the Constraction sets like Bionicle and Exo Force is that you can combine them and make your own creations, which seems like what you have here. Your grandson should have a blast playing with them, no matter if they belong to a set or not. Have fun!


Why do Star Wars sets include the Disney logo/brand name while Marvel Super Heroes sets do not? I have noticed that LEGO sets from the past few years of their Star Wars theme include a prominent, or at least noticeable, Disney logo, typically in one of the corners. For example, see this Imperial AT Hauler set, with the trademark quasi-signature Disney logo in the lower right corner:

On the other hand, Marvel Super Heroes sets (e.g. the Thanos: Ultimate Battle set below) do not seem to include a Disney logo, despite the fact that both Lucasfilm/Star Wars (since 2012) and Marvel Comics (since 2009) are owned by Disney.

Why is this? Is this primarily a result of different contractual clauses in the specific licensing agreements for Star Wars and Marvel (i.e. this is done for legal reasons), or is this primarily a marketing decision by LEGO? I could easily see how they might do this to make it seem less violent and more appealing to parents with small children - "No, son, Star Wars is a really violent series about a father and son that are always fighting and chop each others' hands off, then team up to throw a local politician down a pit - wait a minute, it's Disney? Ok then!", but then that doesn't explain why they wouldn't do the same with Marvel, which also has a lot of young fans.

I emailed TLG:

These changes are different as it is how Disney would like it be displayed.  Prior to a set release, each set goes through a number of reviews.  One of these, is our designers show Disney the boxes for them to sign off on and approve, after they review the boxes.  For each set, they said the boxes were approved for release!
It does appear that for the Marvel, they were ok with the Disney Logo not included on the exterior but they did want the Disney Logo on the Star Wars sets!

I also talked with a customer service representative. He took ~5 minutes to "do research." Here's a portion of (only) what he said (comment and ping me in chat if you want the full transcript):

I'm sorry, but we don't have a clear answer on why the boxes differ. What we do know is that the designers create the artwork for the boxes that the sets come in [sic; in] and after that the parent company (Disney) signs off on the designs!
That's it exactly! We provide the images to the parent company and they do have a say in what appears on the box, once we get the okay from them we print them off. With the Marvel and Star Wars TM they were both approved, but have the different printing.

He suggested reaching out to Disney. Unfortunately, I am still in the process of doing so.
What the above replies mean is that (1) designer decided to design a box a certain way (possibly for aesthetic reasons), (2) Disney approved the design, (3) this is the design you see on your boxes. As such, there is no "real reason" the boxes were designed this way.
I will be updating the answer with a reply from Disney.
The (second) reply from Disney; the first was a generic "thanks for the feedback":

That is actually a good question for LEGO- there is a contact page in the links you sent us.
This is not something we could answer...


Lego Mindstorms NXT 2.0 brick is not working Recently, I tried to get my old NXT 2.0 brick fixed.
Everything seemed to point to the clicking brick problem, but it turns out not to be the only thing, the brick was also getting hot. After disassembling it, I found that the "q27" transistor was burning up.

There is "11 2x" written on the part, but it didn't point me to anything on the internet and I couldn't find any schematic for NXT 2.0 on the web. Any ideas how to identify the part?

Or maybe anyone saw the schematic for NXT 2.0?
Would writing an email to Lego give me anything?

The electrial schematic for the NXT is available in the LEGO "NXT Hardware Developer Kit". This can be found on the official LEGO MINDSTORMS download page near the bottom of the page in the Advanced Users – Developer Kits section.


How much does the NXT brick weigh? I am working on a project that involves LEGO Mindstorms bricks but for some tasks I want to know the weight of the NXT brick, so I would be pleased if anyone can help me.

Without batteries installed, the NXT brick weighs 159.3 grams, so that's about 0.351 pounds.

Do take into account the added weight of what ever batteries you have installed, though, as that will almost double the weight, and not all types of AA batteries weigh the same. If you're using a rechargeable battery, then for reference, the original NXT rechargeable battery weighs 155 grams (~0.341 pounds), and the newer rechargeable battery weighs 136 grams (~0.2998 pounds).

The weight of a single AA battery according to www.allaboutbatteries.com are:

Alkaline: 24g

Carbon-Zinc: 19g

NiCad: 29g

NiMH: 26g

Lithium Ion: 25g


What is a "MOD" and how does it differ from a "MOC"? In this imgur post, one of the images is captioned "MODs and MOCs - Ocean Beach, Kingsman Tailor shop, Sanctum Santorum."

If a "MOC" is a "My Own Creation," what is (the most commonly used definition of) a "MOD"?

This thread on Eurobrick suggests that "MOD" could stand for "My Own Design" (which might or might not be different from "MOC"), or could just be a relatively minor "MODification" of an existing set.

I didn't see a consensus over there, and I don't see the question raised on StackExchange yet, so I thought I'd ask StackExchange. What's a MOD? And when would you use that term instead of "MOC"?

It's MODification, "My Own Design" is silly.
Also used quite extensively outside of the LEGO community, e.g. in gaming a MOD is altered game code you execute, either to cheat or too change graphics for fun.

So an existing set where you altered things to is a MOD.

A MOC is created from scratch.


What is the most compact way to make a flat six pointed star in LEGO? I spend a lot of time building in Micro scale (I maintain the Micropolis collaboration standard) and my partner is trying to figure out how to build the most compact, or smallest, six pointed star possible to fit into one of her builds. We've played around with friction set cheese wedges similar to this example but were curious if anyone has any other ideas. We're open to using parts in System, Technic, Clickits, or even Znap or of course any combinations thereof.

Hexagonal symmetry and angles in 15, 30 and 60-degree proportions are scarce among LEGO elements.

I think the smallest single piece that approximates a six-pointed star is the basic flower:

I myself don't practice freelance brick modification, but someone with fewer scruples might easily trim one of these into a 6-pointed star shape.

Another piece that has hexagonal symmetry is the old pulley wheel:

The holes are arranged at 60-degree intervals around the center. Putting two of these pulleys together and inserting half pins into the holes will give you 6 studs arranged at what could be the points of a 6-pointed star:

I added a 1x1 round plate to three of the studs to offset the gear shift handles. This construction is a little shaky, as the half pins will rotate. Not sure if it's compact enough for micro-scale - the star ends up about 2.5x2.5

You could get a 6-pointed star of about the same size using two triangular roadsigns:

These have clips on the back. Putting them face-to-face would give you a clip on the front of the star, and you'd have to find a way to hold it in place, but it would have the advantage of being fairly thin. The color options on these pieces are limited, though.


Is this piece some kind of rare/modified 200? I have this piece which vaguely resembles 200, Technic Rack Winder Axle (Rebricked) but one end is different. It is 5 studs long, axle is 1 stud long, the gear lies between 3rd and 4th stud and the axle hole is approximately 1 stud deep.

There is no branding on the piece so I am not sure if it isn't something other than Lego.

Edit: The axle hole holds axles really tight, but the axle end doesn't hold other things too well. As for the gear teeth, they are exactly the same as in 3647 (the same shape number and size), although they are slightly moved, 10 degrees or maybe even less.

As mentioned it is possible it's not Lego, but I personally don't recall ever buying any technic-like non-Lego sets. Can't vouch for my brothers after who I've inherited most of my collection.

It is about the right size and shape to be the main shaft of this wind-up motor from set 4093:

Here's another view:

These pictures show the piece as white, but it might be a variant. I do not have one of these windups to take apart to check.


What is the history of the set numbers of Lego sets through time? I was wondering how Lego went from a 4 digit code to a complete family and set of products to identify them like the Creator set, the System set...
Of course part of it is their growth but does anyone have more information on how the product code changed throughout the years?

There is nice article on Brickset called "The history of 5-digit set numbers". While this article is not a historic information on transformation it is still quite interesting read since it is based on data collected by the website itself.


What is meant by the statement about "minifig replicas" in the 2020/2 catalogue? The German Lego catalogue for the second half of 2020 contains several instances of a confusing statement on page 125:

Jedes Set enthält die detailgetreue Nachbildung einer original LEGO Star Wars Minifigur.

In English:

Each set contains the detailed replica of an original LEGO Star Wars minifigure.

This statement (that appears twice on the same page, once related to a minifigure of Leia Organa, once related to one of Luke Skywalker) leaves me utterly confused:

What is special about these figures?
Don't all the sets contain LEGO Star Wars minifigures?
Aren't all of them "original" (because they're produced by LEGO for the Star Wars product line)?
Then why are these figures "replicas"? What's the difference between a minifigure and a replica of a minifigure if both are (presumably) produced in the same factory, using the same moulds?

What is that statement supposed to mean?

These 2 sets 75243 & 75258 are 2 of the 20 years anniversary sets.
LEGO included in each of these sets an additional minifig on a stand based on the minifigs released during the first years. These initial star wars figures still had the yellow heads before they moved to flesh colored heads. So they have recreated / replicated these original minifigs.
The original (2000) minifig: princess-leia

The new replica (2020): princess-leia-(20th-anniversary-torso)

For comparison, a modern (2019) version of the same character: princess-leia-(white-dress-detailed-belt-crooked-smile)


Trying to identify Star Wars LEGO set I bought a second hand LEGO set and it came with a box of loose ends, with some partially built sets. I think this is a Star Wars set - any help in identifying it would be welcomed.

This appears to be Mace Windu's Jedi Starfighter (7868):

The instructions are available on LEGO.com if you want to try to make it complete.


How can I remove a rubber band from a pulley? We have a pulley and a bunch of rubber bands:

We don't know that part numbers, but they all were part of a Mindstorms (RCX 2.0) set.  My son was trying use the pulley and band to transfer power to another pulley.  But it didn't work out that way:

Now the band doesn't slip off of the pulley.  We figure we can cut it off, but we'd kinda like to save the band if at all possible.

Have you ever run across this sort of problem?  Do you have any suggestions for removing the rubber band without destroying it?

As I've said before in another answer, I find the #92585 Crowbar is the most versatile and is especially good at removing rubber bands from the #3736 (Technic, Steering Pulley Large) and the #4185 (Technic, Wedge Belt Wheel) elements.

Don't use any sharp/metallic objects like a screwdriver or a pen knife as you may scratch the brick or sever the rubber band.


How best to plan and design a custom LEGO creation? I'm curious how best to proceed with my own creations. I have several ideas that I want to take a stab at implementing but know I probably don't have the all bricks I need. I am not new to LEGO, but I am definitely new to building high quality custom creations and am a little unsure where to start.

This is going to be different for everyone, but there are several different options.

I personally prefer to get my LEGO bricks out and just start building, this usually doesn't turn out exactly how I want initially, but I will take the bits I like and try again; building multiple versions to find what I like and come up with a finished item.  For larger builds, I will break it down into specific areas or elements to focus on and then work to integrate the sections when I am happy with each.

A very useful set of tools are the various computer Lego CAD systems, I prefer LDraw, the official Lego tool is the Lego Digital Designer, and there are others.

I have used these to start from scratch to generate a finished design, to generate a rough idea before moving onto the bricks, or to organize existing elements together into a larger build.

Depending on your experience they can be very useful tools not just for planning, but to generate build directions, parts lists, or high quality renders of you creation.  They will come with a large number of Lego pieces and colors allowing you to experiment beyond the Lego you have.  They are a little cumbersome for certain advanced SNOT techniques but can generally do most things Lego would.


How do I make trains which fit LEGO rails (6 studs)? Christmas is coming and my son (7) is asking for trains.

I was planning to buy a set, but they are expensive, and I think it is a bit too advanced for my son.

Therefore I decided to buy a box of rails (just rails) as well as LEGO pieces. I think we would not have a problem with the top parts of trains (we have plenty of LEGO bricks at home), but I am not sure which wheels to buy.

Do you have any recommendations? We have a couple of train wheels. Will any LEGO train wheels work for the rails?

I have wheels from this Classic set:

The most common train wheels (2878) look like this:

These may be available directly from LEGO via online Pick-a-Brick or Bricks and Pieces, but it is probably easiest and cheapest to get them used on Bricklink.

If you want something cheaper, you could go with the small track-compatible wheels (50254):

That part is available very cheaply on Bricklink. These have been used in many sets, often having nothing to do with trains, but you can see how they are used to run on track in Rail and Road Service Truck (4541):

Those small wheels obviously wouldn't look great on a full scale LEGO train, but you might be able to put something together that looks alright at a somewhat smaller scale.


Lego Technic 60C01 Clutch Gear Bore size I was wondering what the bore size is off the 60C01 clutch gear as I was unable to find it anywhere. Also, what is the pitch of such gear?

Outer (hub): 6.8 mm/.268 in./ 17/64 in.
Inner (shaft): 4.9 mm/ .193 in./ 25/128 in.
Teeth (key): 3.32 mm/ .1305 in./ 17/128 in.

-These are close/approximate, not exact due to the tolerances and/or wear. I measured 4 different gears with a digital caliper and the measurements were all within .10 mm of the listed measurements. The measurements even varied slightly within a single gear depending on side and orientation.

Also, I think you can find the answer to your second question about pitch here: "What is the "Module" of a LEGO gear?"


Help find Lego number for large Technic F1 Ferrari Help! I'm trying to find the Lego number, and missing parts for the rear wing etc.

This is set 8386 Ferrari F1 Racer 1:10.

It's hard to tell from your photo exactly what is missing. Obviously the rear spoiler is missing, but there may be several other smaller elements missing.

Brickset and LEGO.com both have the full instructions, so the best way to determine what is missing is probably to walk through those. Here they are:

https://www.lego.com/biassets/bi/4280172.pdf

You can find the complete parts list for this set on Bricklink if you'd like to order any replacement parts.


Non-working technic system Recently I've been working on a car which when going forward is fast, and when going backward automatically goes slowly.
Here are two photos of it:

(Just replace the text by "input") As you can see, it uses a switch to change of speed.

Above view.

To make the system work, the motor not only turns the most visible circular gears but also the worm gears. And then these worm gears move the switch and the speed is automatically changed.

Here is my problem: Once the 8-tooth gear between the worm gears  gets to one end, it won't go back. Plus, when it is going from left to right, the motor has a big difficulty turning the worm gears. I want to avoid using a rubber band, so can someone help me?

I would suggest another solution. On the 9396 helicopter the blades can only rotate in one direction, because when a backwards rotation is input, a gear in the transmission line is lifted away from its neighbor automatically. In the instructions it's here (the yellow L-beam lifts up):

Where the gear is lifted away, place another gear for it to interact with there, which would be the transmission for your backwards drive.


Has Anyone Motorized Ocean Explorer Set #42064? Me gustaría saber si tiene alguien monitorizado motorized el LEGO Technic - Explorador oceánico 42064 y si es así si alguien podría pasarme las instrucciones?

Muchas gracias!

Google Text Translated:

I would like to know if anyone has motorized the LEGO Technic - Ocean Explorer 42064, and if so, could someone show me how?

Thank you!

Editor's note:
Translation errors aside, I'm using this Youtube video Here as a reference to what I think the OP is referring to when he means "Motorized" in hopes that more people will at least understand what he's looking for, and focus on getting the answer he wants.

Based off what the darn thing does, is it possible to motorized these functions?

The main vessel itself has wheels to make it go forward and backward.

It has a steerable moving rudder.

There are more functions like a moveable Crane, Helicopter and Submarine.  Not sure how many things he wants to hook up to a motor, so I kept focused on the moving ship.

Here is a video of 42064 as RC model but no building instructions
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7P5WEdphSE


How can I make a spiral staircase with basic blocks at right angles? Quite simply, how do I make a spiral like a staircase, but with only these blocks?

There is also a 8x2 block, but my brother has it. Because it is quite an old set, I need a spiral staircase without 45 degree angles. The best I have made is this...

....made with these components:

What is a better alternative?

For Ambo100, it is not needed to support any weight, I  merely make these things for pleasure. Additionally, I require it to continue for infinite iterations of layers. And obviously, it need to be vertical. Finally, I would like it to be solid when "running" along it, just to be annoying. =)

Important: I forgot to note this, but my set is based around the 2 x 4 blocks.

Based on the limited brick options, and the "it needs to be solid" constraint, I present my "Minecraft Spiral Stair" in LEGO form, and to provide "inifite height", I've gone for a "hung" support option:

Start with two 2x2, a 2x4 and a 2x6 in this configuration:

Add more steps as you need rotating around the lower 2x2 brick:

(Key: Yellow: 2x2, Blue: 2x4, White: 2x6)


Making or buying a really long Power Functions cable I'm working on a train layout and have built 2 automatic switches for the switch track. Each switch track is powered by M-Motor. I'd like to connect the 2 motors to a single IR receiver and battery pack with 6 AAAs. Unfortunately the longest extension cable I can find is 20 inches. I need a much longer cable than that; more like 8 feet. Is there a limitation to the length? Is it possible to make or buy such a cable? I'd like to avoid adding more Power Functions equipment if possible.

As the PF plugs are specific, the simplest thing to do is to buy a short extension cable, cut it in half and solder another cable in the middle. Current in PF cable can be pretty high, so to avoid too much drop it's best to avoid thin cable, I recommend 0.5mm² of copper section.


Why do the tubes in the Seattle Space Needle Architecture set need to be cut? I just received the Seattle Space Needle from the Architecture series. There are tubes that the builder is required to cut to a certain length for the model.  This is the first time I've encountered tubes in a LEGO model.  Are the tubes made only one size making it normal to have to cut them to use them?  I was wondering why the tubes were not manufactured to the correct size instead of having the builder cut them.

This happens in Technic models as well, at least for pneumatics tubes. I would tend to assume it's a simple production issue or simplification - as this requires less work from LEGO.

That way, they only need one length of tube per model, instead of having one part ID for each of length of tube. Considering LEGO wants to control its number of elements currently in production (it's not infinite), this makes sense.


draw program for LEGO MOC models? I want to design a MOC digitally. I can do this with ldraw, but
are there any drawing programs better than ldraw to make models of LEGO ?

kind regards,
Peter

Even though support has ended, the LDD software still works. Alternatively, you mention LDraw but LDraw is only a catalogue and a standard - there are different software packages that allow you to draw on top of the LDraw catalog such as MLCad and LEOCad - have you tried these to see which one works? I use MLCad extensively - it looked daunting at first but the tutorials at http://www.holly-wood.it helped a ton - worth spending a few hours doing those tutorials.

As per @Philo's suggestion: another program worth looking at is LDCad, which promises to be more convenient and more powerful than MLCad or LEOCad.


Convert 3rd party NXT programming language code to NXT-G program? Is there a way to convert code from one or more 3rd party programming languages used for programming the NXT into a program that can be loaded up in NXT-G? If not, do any text-based languages provide support for making custom blocks that can be imported into NXT-G?

No, there is no automated way to convert source files from other programming languages into un-compiled NXT-G code. The .rbt format is very complex, so writing a program to interpret programs written in other languages and generate a proper .rbt file with properly placed and configured blocks would be an incredibly time-consuming and tedious task that wouldn't be worth the effort. You'd be better off manually translating each program manually.

As for your second question, it is possible to make custom blocks for NXT-G, although not in any text-based languages. Custom blocks are made in LabView, a graphical programming language that has a wide variety of uses, including programming NXT robots. See this tutorial on creating custom NXT-G blocks if you're interested:

ftp://ftp.ni.com/evaluation/mindstorms/NXT_Creating_MINDSTORMS_Blocks.pdf


How can I wire up the LEGO 2838? I would like to know how to hook up the LEGO 2838 9v motor. I understand that the Power Functions extension wire is compatible with the 9v system, but how on earth do I wire them up?

To wire 2838 motor, you have to use one PF extension cable, one end connected to PF power source (either battery box or IR receiver), the other end has a 9V compatible plug on bottom. Unfortunately, 2838 also has its connector on bottom, so you also need a 9V cable (such as this one) to connect them.


Does cleaning LEGO parts affect their value? I have a LEGO collection consisting of a number of rarer sets such as the monorail and 9V train sets.

I want to clean the pieces but I am curious if cleaning the parts affects their value? I plan on putting a few drops of dish soap in a laundry tub with warm water, gently mixing the pieces around, and then rinsing them off and letting them air dry. I obviously wouldn't do this with any 9V pieces or pieces with decals.

I know cleaning coins greatly decreases their value because it lightly scratches the surface of the coin. Should I be concerned with cleaning LEGO parts?

Cleaning coins reduces their value because being metal they form a natural patina with age. The patina is an indication of the coin's age, and supports its authenticity. Removing any of the patina through cleaning reduces the value because it removes this sign of its authenticity.

Cleaning LEGO pieces does not affect their value in the same way it does coins. It is generally accepted that used pieces will have some small scratches and will have lost some of the shine of new pieces. Unless the scratches are deep enough to be seen easily or the piece is damaged, these incidental small scratches have little effect on the value of used pieces or sets.

LEGO pieces do not scratch one another, although they may cause scuffs (which can be removed). Scratches are caused by substances that are harder than the ABS plastic LEGO pieces are made from. This is usually dirt and dust that contain small particles of grit. This can settle on the pieces and scratch them as they are handled. Many pieces are played with on the floor, where they pick up grit and can be rubbed into carpet or flooring that contains abrasive particles.

Cleaning them can remove this abrasive grit and reduce further scratching, but aggressive rubbing can cause more scratching. When I clean pieces, I like to let them soak in warm water and mild soap for several hours - overnight usually - with no scrubbing and just a gentle mixing around of the pieces. Then I drain the water and rinse them until there are no soap suds and spread them out in a single layer on a clean towel to air dry. This will get all but the most dirty pieces clean.

For pieces that are very dusty, I will soak them then run them under a tap and use the water pressure to clean off as much dust as possible.

For pieces with dried-on dirt or other substances, you need to scrape it off with something softer than the plastic, like a fingernail, or try using the thin edge of a brick separator which is the same type of plastic.


Need help identifying extra large Lego figure from 2003 I came across these LEGO figures at an estate sale and have had no luck trying to find out what they are called.

They are much larger than a regular minifig but have a shaped foot plate to attach to regular sized Legos. They can be squeezed down and compressed and then pop back up.

Top and bottom are two different pieces and inside there are screws visible. Only markings are "LEGO" on front shirt and "48379" and "2003" on bottom of foot plate. Thinking they were not part of a set but a promo item or accessory.

48379 is the part number for the torso piece. 2003 would be the copyright date for the LEGO trademark.

They are both promotional items which were distributed with McDonald's Happy Meals.

Bricklink: 7923-1 (White Soccer Player #4)

Bricklink: 7917-1 (Blue Basketball Player #22)


How do I organize all my LEGO bricks and parts? I have a massive amount of LEGO laying around in a container. It's kind of hard to sort through whenever I need parts. I was wondering if anyone has experience with many different sizes of LEGO bricks/parts and how to organize them. This seems like a problem most LEGO enthusiasts will have at some point, so is there some kind of "best practice" for a sorting scheme? What's the most suitable container to store LEGO in? Is there a common box that enthusiasts use? Do people often make their own box?

As you mentioned sorting and storing LEGO does become an issue as you start to amass a massive collection. There are however great solutions worked out already by LEGO fans. The earlier you set up a storage system that works for you, the better, and the easier it is going to be to manage your projects, and also stay enthusiastic in the hobby. Here are a couple of articles I wrote in regards to the topic, laying out what LEGO fans use and ways to get you started:

How to sort LEGO: http://thebrickblogger.com/2010/12/how-to-sort-lego/

How to store LEGO: http://thebrickblogger.com/2010/12/how-to-store-lego/

In addition, I have been maintaining a couple of Flickr Galleries where people show off their LEGO storing and sorting solutions. Seeing how other people sort and organize their LEGO can be very helpful, especially as your collection grows.

LEGO Display & Storage Ideas Gallery 2: http://www.flickr.com/photos/akunthita/galleries/72157629813455752/

LEGO Display & Storage Ideas Gallery 1:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/akunthita/galleries/72157625185890950/

You don't have to spend that much to set up a good system. What it requires though is to think through what you want and also what kind of space you have. The above information should get you started with ideas and solutions, and you should be able to get yourself organized easily.


Are only two new train sets available in August 2018? I want to get started on LEGO trains. However when I look up which trains sets are available I find only two:

60198 Cargo Train
60197 Passenger Train

Does that mean I can only buy two different trains for my railway? That seems very limiting.  What am I missing here? Are there more trains available?

Those are the two City-themed trains that are currently available. LEGO is currently transitioning to a new electrical system for trains, so that may explain the relatively low number of trains available. There are a couple of other trains available if you are interested in something outside of the City theme.

There's Winter Holiday Train (10254):

And also the new Hogwart's Express(75955) (currently backordered):

These are just the sets currently available directly from TLG. LEGO has produced many, many trains over the years. You can find out-of-production train sets on secondary markets such as Bricklink or eBay.


LEGO EV3 Ultrasonic sensor missing from Home Edition programmer I'll get straight to the point: When I open my LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Home Edition programmer and try to use an ultrasonic sensor, there is no option for it in any blocks. I don't even see any allusion to the ultrasonic sensor existing at all. Is there any way at all to use the US sensor AND the IR sensor at once? Thanks.

EV3 Home edition software does not come with blocks for ultrasonic sensor, unlike Education edition. However you can still add them as explained in this guide.


Are there any difference between the Power Functions 88003 and 99499 L motors? I am planning to attempt a couple of RC MOCs and was looking up the power functions L motor on BL and found that there are actually 2 types of the L motor, namely the "88003 Power Functions L Motor" and the "99499 Power Functions 9V L Motor". From the somewhat limited information I could google, it seems like the 88003 can run on variable voltage (while I can't find the info on the 9V 99499 motor), it also seem like even their weights are different?

Can someone advice, or point me towards where I can find more information on these?

According to bricklink, 88003 is the set containing exactly one part, namely the 99499 motor.
You can buy the motor as a set in LEGO shops or online, it's packaged in a plastic bag, which probably accounts for the 3 gram weight difference between the items.

To my knowledge there are no different versions of the Power Functions L motor.

Here is the list of the sets the motor appears in, note that 88003 is listed as well:
https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=99499c01&in=S


Part identification (single part) I'd be grateful if someone could help me identify this part. It's from the Lego Power Functions Ideas book, which has a gallery of required parts, but without part numbers.

It is 4281515: Bionicle Eye.
Appears in 22 sets according to Brickset.


Recreating Mindstorms TRACK3R test track I didn't realize until now that the 31313 Mindstorms packaging secretly contains a hidden test track for the TRACK3R robot. And the packaging is long gone with the trash. D'oh!

What is the simplest way of recreating the track so that it gets fully functional? Any web site where a blueprint can be found? What are the dimensions?

I have access to a color printer, color crayons etc.

Luckily I still kept the original packaging so I managed to open up the sleeve and take a picture.

The best photo I managed to take had some inconsistent lighting due to the flash and room lighting and the perspective wasn't the best so I decided it would be best to re-draw the board in Adobe Illustrator.

I deliberately didn't include some of the design elements that I didn't think were necessary. The original size was approximately 48 x 90 cm, these are the measurements I used for the Illustration.

You can print the above raster image or download the .SVG file. If you have access to a vector editor (Inkscape, for example, is free) you can re-adjust any of the elements however you like to better suite your needs.

If you don't have access to a large scale printer, I highly recommend you use the web service Rasterbator which converts large images into smaller pages that can be printed using smaller paper sizes such as A4.

Rasterbator has several additional features, allowing you to adjust the margins to allow you to overlap pages, giving you a neat finish. Finally, glue the pages onto a piece of cardboard or craft card to add rigidity.


Where can I find examples of everyday objects built in Lego? Suppose for example I am interested in creative ways people have made trees, or minifig scale furniture, or just architectural details like windows. Is there some encyclopedia that organizes pictures this way?

The Lego Ideas Book

Recently released last month (19th Sep 2011). Written with the help of adult Lego Fans. I've had a look through the book myself. The book has six chapters focussing on transport, buildings, space, kingdoms, adventure and 'useful makes'. The buildings chapter in-particular focusses on every day objects.

The LEGO Ideas Book, hmillington @Flickr


Are there LEGO plates without the word "LEGO" on the studs? I came across this image of the "LEGO Stack Overflow Hat" which is a hat made out of LEGO.

The individual who made the hat asserted, "it's 100% LEGO," but if you look closely at the hat, you'll see there are plates on it which do not have the word LEGO on them.

Since it is ostensibly 100% LEGO, what LEGO plates have studs without the LEGO logo on them?

What you are seeing is actually the result of poor lighting, somewhat worn bricks, probably camera app noise reduction, and perhaps image compression, although if you look really closely you can kinda see it's a little darker where the lettering is.

As the creator, I promise that every piece in the hat is 100% genuine LEGO pieces (no knockoff brands). Unfortunately, when I took the picture the sun had set, and all I had was some weaker household lighting.

Here's another shot of the front with the face turned towards the lighting, so the lettering will catch some contrast.

The 2x2 plate in the bottom left does have more-pronounced lettering than the older 2x10 plate next to it, which is why you are able to see it better in the other picture.

To answer the question of are there plates that don't have "LEGO" stamped on the stud, no there are not to my knowledge. Even the the first LEGO plates have the stamp. Some special plates do have hollow studs though.


Can you identify this modified 1x1 plate? Please can you identify this LEGO piece. I need to know what the name is from this piece.

It's appears to be either Part 4081a or Part 4081b.
I'm not sure if it is exactly the same, but this works as a starting point, I believe. The two linked pieces seem to differ only in the thickness of the ring of the added "limb".
I was unable to find a part like those that has a "hole" in the main stud.


Mounting a mosaic modularly I have this LEGO mosaic consisting out of 3 by 3 baseplates (32x32):

As it takes up too much space lying flat, I would like to mount it vertically or near vertically, slightly leaning backwards, like on an easel.
I'm looking for a solution that is modular, i.e. that I can easily take apart in smaller parts so I can put it in luggage for travelling and that is also as easy as possible to reassemble.
Also, I'd prefer a purist lego only solution, avoiding gluing if possible.
Any ideas?

I can suggest using a base MILS module (BTM-1 on the picture below), basically an extra layer including some Technic Bricks around the edge for connectivity between modules as well as some plates on top of existing baseplate. Yes, it is going to be bulkier and heavier, but at the same time much more sturdy and easy to assemble and take apart for travelling.
This also has an added benefit of making your surface 3D (BTM-2) if needed.

UPDATE
LEGO has now produced their own MILS-like elements used as a base layer for mosaic sets as well - Technic, Brick 16 x 16 x 1 1/3 with Holes (65803)


Where's the iNXTG app for programming NXT from iPad? I'm trying to find the old iNXTG to program NXT bricks via iPad but it is no longer available in the Apple Store. Does anyone know if there exists an archive for programs like that?

The problem is that the new LEGO programmer for EV3 does not recognize the NXT brick with Bluetooth or a USB connection. We have no laptops in school, just iPads and Chromebooks.

Does anyone know of an NXTG version that would run on iPads or Chromebooks?

Unfortunately there is no good solution for controlling NXT’s from an iPad. There are plenty of Android apps to control them manually, but you’re best bet on iOS is to write something on your own. LEGO does provide a Bluetooth Developer Kit with the info so it is possible.


Why isn't the Sad Clown's torso in Stud.io? I was working on designing a clown minifig and I found the 973pb1398c01 Torso 3 Black Pom Poms Pattern / White Arms / Black Hands that seemed perfect for it, but it turns out that it isn't in Stud.io.

So, am I using the wrong tool for designing minifigs? Is there an easy way to get new parts like this into Stud.io? Is there an explanation for which parts are available?

Stud.io only has a small selection of printed parts, but there is hope. Stud.io’s Part Designer tool can help you with your clown torso. Here’s how:

Using a paint tool (like Windows’ Paint3D), save only the center bit of the torso to a PNG file, using the above torso image as your master.
Open up Part Designer and choose the option to modify a part. Search for the torso part (Part Designer does not care about the color).
Once the torso part is loaded, choose to add a decoration using the proper option in the left side menu (bottom-most option in my version).
Now open up your PNG file and position it over the torso so that the pompoms line up with the middle of the torso.
Save your part, import it back into Stud.io, go to your Custom part library (selector on the top left side of your screen above the Parts Library) and use the torso as you want.

All these steps shouldn’t take more than a few minutes. Good luck!


How to inventory a large collection of LEGO sets I have a fairly large collection of LEGO sets, most of them still as completed models. I also have all of the instruction books organised into plastic wallets which are stored in two A4 folders.

I'm looking at creating some kind of inventory of my LEGO sets. I'm thinking an Excel spreadsheet is the way to go. I would like to include information such as original price, current value, number of pieces, e.t.c.

I'm looking to see if anyone has some kind of template I could use or a quick way to automatically pull information from a site like Brick Picker or BrickLink. And also have information like current value be automatically updated.

I would recommend taking a look at BrickPicker's BrickFolio feature. It allows you to maintain a list of sets you own, including place of purchase, purchase cost and seal code, and keeps track of the current EBay value on a month-by-month basis. It also tracks CAGR (Compound Annual Growth Rate) - a measure of how well the set's value is performing over time.

Clicking on the set name gives you an overview screen with key set details such as piece count etc.


How can I make Custom Instructions for my MOC? I'm a huge AFOL and recently have quit my job in order to take my part time job of selling Lego to the next level.
However, there's a new venture I'm having difficulty with and I would greatly appreciate if anyone has any advice for me...

** I have made a number of custom MOC's and my plan is to create instruction booklet's for the best ones and hopefully sell those online as well. I'm aware that Lego creator is available, however, I'm trying to construct a more tangible set of directions similar to the official Lego instruction booklets you'd receive with one of their sets.

I've seen similar custom directions (without any bricks included) on eBay and so basically I would like to know how that's made possible.

**Are there any businesses or individuals whom have the capability to create such instructions? Any representatives or recommendations you have for me would be great appreciated.

The Lego and AFOL community is amongst the nicest/helpful groups of people I've ever had the pleasure of being involved with, and I'm looking forwards to meeting even more of you this upcoming weekend at The Philly Brick Fest!!!!!!

LIC is the Lego Instruction Creator

it's a tool some people use to make instructions.
I would say it's for "power users" though, so it may not be for you.

If I were you I might change the title of this question to something indicative of your search for someone to do this work for you.
As you are probably aware, there are Lego forums which are devoted to MOCs -- so I would solicit for some help there  (Try https://rebrickable.com/forum/ )


Programming with Lego Mindstorms EV3 I know this question was asked in the past, but I want an up-to-date answer.

What is the best way to program with the NXT with a oriented object programming language?  Ideally C#, C++ or Java (maybe Python).

I've search a bit, but I have difficulty to find what is popular today.

I'm really interested in Mindstorms, but I don't want to program with boxes.

When we did NXT programming in university we used NXC (http://bricxcc.sourceforge.net/nbc/) as our primary language.

This is a C-stlye language, not exactly object-oriented, but seeing that NXT programming is practically equivalent to microcontroller programming, C is much better suited to this task in my opinion. In C you get a much clearer main loop that controls your robot, and I can't really see what benefits would object orientation bring to a platform that is clearly restricted in both input/output capabilities and computational resources.

But if you really need object oriented design, take a look at LeJOS: http://www.lejos.org/


What is this snapping brick for / which set is it from? I've found this DUPLO brick:

The red part can be pushed in and snaps out when the button on the top is pressed:

Any idea which set this is from or what it could be used for?

Looks like the Duplo Car Launcher and according to Bricklink this appears in at least 4 different sets: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=31080c01&in=S


Why do some minifigs have grey hands and some yellow? I have a lot of LEGO Sets and have noticed that some of them have yellow hands and some have a dark grey colour hands. Is this because some are of old design and some are of new design? Most old ones have yellow hands, though?

This minifig has yellow hands:

And this one has grey:

Hand colors other than yellow are generally used to either match skin tone in licensed themes, or to represent some sort of gloves. The police officer you mentioned is probably "wearing" some sort of motorcycle or driving glove:

When minifigs were first introduced in the late 70s, the only ones to have non-yellow hands were the space minifigs:


Programmable sound bricks Regarding this component

It comes in several versions, each producing a different sound when pushing the button, e.g. a barking dog or doorbell. However, the sound is "fixed", is there any way to replace the sound with one of your own choosing?

It can be programmed, but it requires specialized equipment

Here is one connected to a circuitboard

The external board is wired straight to the internal board. It plays the "doorbell then dog bark" sound from the brick in set 5771 - Hillside House.

Searching the number on the chip (39VF020) reveals it's a simple flash memory chip.

The board (AMA9AA) brings up pages from a Chinese company, Alpha Microelectronics, thatseems to specialize in voice/sound synthesizing hardware. There are references to software called EZSpeech and FlashWriter. There are download links for the software on their website, but they are password protected.

(by mpfirnhaber on Eurobricks)

This not LEGO related hobby store can make them with custom sounds
TopdragonHK


When did LEGO have a groove in the center tube underneath? I have a bunch of bricks from my childhood, some have grooves in the tubes underneath, some have the old style bubble logo, some have square holes under the plates. I am interested in general ages of each.

I can give you some help, especially if you are talking about 2x4 bricks.  Last year, I embarked on a bit of a history project to trace the design changes in Lego, by looking at the 2x4 brick, from 1949 to today. (Such as changes in the tubes, like the slots you mention!) I talked to several very helpful collectors (some here on Bricks beta!), who gave me lots of helpful information.
I distilled it all down into this article:

http://snakeandboris.blogspot.com/2016/06/a-short-history-of-lego-brick-1949_6.html

(This link goes to Part 2 of the article, because it contains a link for Part 1.)
Keep in mind, though, that not all dates with Lego changes are hard-and-fast.  You will see a few "c." meaning it was AT or AROUND that time--because as Lego changed molds, they didn't do it all at once, across the whole world. They used the old molds for their normal lifespans.
There are even MORE sub-variations than what I have found, and there are links at the end of my post to some other good sources of information.
Good luck! One thing about this hobby I can tell you, there are lots of knowledgeable and kind folks to help you!


Is there a way to buy a customized minifig? I have a design I want to replicate into a minifig. I also want to add additional accessories to it (i.e. a calculator and glass beaker). Is there a place I can order online to get this done? Is there even such thing? One of the place I visited said it's difficult to fulfill small orders due to the cost of printing. Other places require you to select their pre-designed parts.

There are a few options, however many of them either use standard parts, or require minimum order quantities (Minifigures.com for example requires a minimum run of 50).

A couple of options for bespoke, one-offs seem to be:

minifigs.me - who offer both a Custom Torso option and a Custom Complete Minifigure with printing on the legs and head as well.
minifigs.com - Offer both torso engraving and printing depending on the complexity of the print.

Of the two, I've seen Minifigs.com at shows and the quality is very good, and the price seems reasonable (especially for the engraved options which don't require a set-up fee).

Alternatively, as suggested in this answer, you could look at doing it yourself with water decals and varnish, depending on your art skills.


What are the female parts called? What is the proper term for the "female" section of the piece that the "studs" insert into? I have heard "pipes", "tubes", "underbits". Is there an actual term for the female section?

Chapter 1, Page 4, The Unofficial LEGO Builder's Guide:

  The tube is the other half of the mechanism that helps bricks stick
  together. Tubes capture the studs so that you can join LEGO elements
  and know they won't fall apart.


LEGO WeDo and Mac OS X Lion Just got a new Mac with Mac OS X 10.7 Lion instead of burned old one. Now I can't install WeDo software since its installer doesn't support Lion. Google search suggests that LEGO released a patch to installer that solves this problem, but all links are broken. Any help in adapting WeDo software to Lion is appreciated.

I believe this is the current location for the Lion Patch

In the interests of finding it again when the LEGO group change their site again:

Visit the LEGO Education page.
Navigate to "Pre-school and School" -> Secondary -> 11+ LEGO MINDSTORMS Education -> Downloads (or similar)

I then filtered the list to just the Download Type of "Software Update / Patch".


Why does LEGO sell minifigures randomly? I often want to buy only some minifigures in each series and might want to buy more than one of a given minifigure but LEGO doesn't allow it. You know, it wants to give you a nice surprise in each minifigure bag :). I can guess that the reason is LEGO simply doesn't want people to be able to buy some minifigures and ignore others, and it can affect their manufacturing plan.

Is there any other reason? BTW, I can still buy exactly what minifigure I want at local LEGO shops.

The minifigs are what is known in the retail trade as 'blind-packed collectables'.

They're sold at 'pocket money' prices in newsagents and bookshops at aisle ends or counter-tops. The idea is to encourage people (mainly children but adults too) to try and 'collect' a complete set. The opaque bags encourage this by making this goal harder to reach, and therefore more of an achievement - revealing the contents would take away a lot of the fun.

The sealed bags also lead buyers to end up with 'doubles'. If you keep these, then the Lego company gets that extra revenue - whereas if you try and swap them, then that helps to spread the word about the product and gives you an incentive to encourage your friends to start collecting them too.

The minifigs are also produced in un-even amounts. This makes it even harder to collect a complete set - and also means that Lego can save money by making less of the more expensive to manufacture minifigs.

So - whilst you might find the random element frustrating, you can see how it makes financial sense to Lego. And if you stop and think about it, would simply being able to pick-and-choose which minifigs you buy be quite so much fun?


Where can I buy bulk DUPLO sized bricks? I am working on a project where I need LOTS of basic DUPLO sized bricks and/or plates. I need only the simple sizes, 2x2 and 2x4 and possibly 2x6. I do not want any pieces with curves, slopes, decals, etc...

I do not even require them to be LEGO brand. It would be an added benefit if they were, but I really just need to cheapest way to find lots of these pieces.

I would like a source for NEW or LIKE NEW parts. I don't necessarily have to have new parts, but I don't want to mess around with ordering used parts that can have a wide variety of things wrong with them.

I have looked on Bricklink, as they have been an awesome resource for normal sized LEGO parts. However, there just doesn't seem to be much of a supply of DUPLO on there.

Any ideas where to look next?

Perhaps there is a Clone brand that I can order specific parts from?

Duplo is less often stocked than normal LEGO, but this (US) Bricklink store seems to have quite some in stock. You might find other Bricklink stores in different parts of the world that have stock as well.

Another option is looking for the 10622 Duplo Large Creative Box, which was on Black Friday sale at Walmart recently. It can still be found on Amazon and eBay, but contains many "other" kinds of bricks apart from your basic 2x4 and 2x2 bricks. Also, at ~$0.30 per brick (MSRP) this might not be your cheapest option - the Bricklink store I linked earlier has 2x2 bricks for as little as $0.12. Also check out last year's 10557 Duplo Creative Tower - it has more pieces (200 vs 193) and sells for less on Amazon currently.

You can also find bulk lots of Duplo bricks on eBay, such as this one. Price with shipping is still ~$0.30 per brick.

EDIT: Two more options:

1) If you're in North America, go look up a second-hand baby/children's clothing store like Once Upon A Child. I went there today and found several sealed bags and boxes with Duplo blocks. Common price was ~$6 for a bag. It was difficult to see what was in each item, but this might get you something.

2) You can look at Mega Blocks - their large bricks don't interconnect with LEGO or Duplo, but depending on what you are trying to do that might not matter. You could always stack them sideways, or modify them, or even (yikes!) glue LEGO bricks on top to make a connection.


Is the EV3RSTORM from Lego Mindstorms programmable using a real programming language? I'm a software developer and Lego fan. I'll create a robot with Lego Mindstorms, but I'll like to know that the is EV3RSTORM is programable using a real programming language (Python, C#, JavaScript, etc.).

I don't like the brick system because it's too 'easy' for me.

The EV3 brick runs a linux kernel so it is extremely compatible with many different programming languages. 3rd-party support packages for basically any language you can think of have been made, and most are very mature by this point. A quick google search can come up with some of these. This previous post, among many others on this site, can help point you in the right direction.

In summary, EV3Dev is always a good starting point - the framework is kind of a catch-all of the various programming languages available. LeJOS (Java) is a big step up in terms of features (and is generally higher performance than an on-brick Python interpreter, for example). The highest performance solution is probably EV3RT, if you really want to practice your embedded C/C++. But for a project as simple as EV3RSTORM, EV3Dev should be more than sufficient.


What is the most cost effective way to get basic bricks in bulk? I've seen another question (What's the most cost effective and efficient way to buy bricks?) that asks where the best place to buy specific bricks in small quantities are. That is helpful when working on LEGO projects that require precise pieces, but I am planning on using LEGO for non-artistic projects, such as building cases for Arduino that I have. As such, I am not really bothered by specific color. What is the most cost effective way to get common bricks in large bulk quantities such as the 4x1 or 2x4 bricks in any color?

The best and most cost effective way to get large quantities of brick, especially common ones, is via the LUGBulk program. You would need to be member of a LUG (LEGO User Group) that participates, and LUGBulk orders are due at specific times of the year. Search for a LUG near you and check.

Alternatively, you can go to your closest LEGO Store and see which common bricks they have in their Pick-a-Brick wall. If one of them is a piece you need, check with a store employee if they are willing to sell you a whole box. This used to cost $70 per box (independent of the type of brick inside) but I believe it might now be more ($100 IIRC).


Identify minifig head with large glasses and grey torso with red hands? I'm sure that this body is the original LEGO. But I'm not sure with head.

What parts are these and which set did they come from?

The head is proper LEGO too: 3626bpb0126 Minifigure, Head Female Glasses with Orange Goggles, Dimples around Lips Pattern - Blocked Open Stud

This head appeared in 4 sets, all from 2002-2003

I haven’t been able to identify the torso yet though ....


Who else produces Duplo-sized blocks? I gather that Mega Bloks Mini Bloks are the same size as Duplo, and are compatible with it. Do any of the other major brick manufacturers make similar bricks?

Knowing the possibilities can help when sorting out collections of bricks purchased second hand.

There are several Chinese companies making DUPLO clones, many are listed in this fascinating article by Anthony Tomkins of UK LUG The Brickish Association.

Communist LEGO, a review of some Chinese copies


What is inside BuWizz 2.0? I'm interested in Buwizz PCB and components. Can someone share good photos of the Buwizz PCB (both sides)? It will be very cool to see Buwizz 2.0 but older versions will also be good.

I don't have this part, so I can't directly give you the photos that you are looking for, but there is at least one teardown video floating around that we can use to see what is inside the BuWizz 2.0 module.

Power

The module contains 2x 850mAh LiPo batteries:

PCB

The top of the PCB looks something like this:

I wasn't able to find an image showing the back of the PCB

Components

System on a chip

From the above images, we can see that the main microprocessor is a Cypress PSoC 4200 series. Looking at the datasheet, we see that is a BLE-enabled system on a chip running at 48MHz with 128KiB of flash.

Motor driver

There are at least 4 DRV8833 chips present on the PCB. This chip is a dual H-bridge. The datasheet for the part indicates that each channel can handle 1.5A RMS/DC or 2A peak. The specs for the BuWizz indicate:

  Performance

  Max continuous current per channel: 4 A
  Max instantaneous current per channel: 6.5 A
  Max continuous power per channel: 36 W (HIGH speed mode)
  Max instantaneous power per channel: 55 W (HIGH speed mode)
  Max total power: 45 W

  Speed Modes

  SLOW: 5.2 V
  NORMAL: 7.2 V
  FAST: 9.2 V
  LUDICROUS: 11.2 V

I'm not sure how 4A per channel is achieved safely using the DRV8833. Given that 4 dual H-bridges are included, it is safe to assume that each chip is driving each output using both H-bridges in parallel, but according the the datasheet, this still only gets us to 3A RMS/DC per channel.

My hunch is that they are simply driving these parts harder than intended. We can see that they are using them at 11.2 volts, while the datasheet recommends a max operating voltage of 10.8 volts. It's worth noting that the max quoted continuous power per channel (36W) is very close to what you would get from a parallel configuration running at 11.2V (11.2V * 3A = 33.6W).

The BuWizz has carved out a niche for itself by going well beyond recommend operating power (the LEGO PF battery box tops out at 9V * .8A = 7.2W or less than a quarter of the BuWizz), so I wouldn't be surprised if they are running the motor drivers a bit hot.


Bag sets identification please Star Wars © 2007 I just purchased a box of random Lego with some sealed bags I’m wondering what they are. The guy I purchased from was vague but said he thinks they’re Star Wars. Note bags 4,5,6,7,8 are there. Mostly black, some technic parts throughout and ©2007 on each bag. Thanks

Based on the parts

Left Shell 3X10

Parabola 6X6
Rocket Step 4X4X2

Technic Stick

2M Fric. Snap W/Cross Hole

Jet Engine

and the Technic rubber projectile launcher

it should be (as Uli commented) 7672-1: Rogue Shadow:


Has LEGO ever been used in an assembly line or a manufacturing process? With LEGO Technic and LEGO Mindstorms becoming ever more sophisticated, I wonder if it has ever been used in a real commercial setting to automate parts of an assembly line or manufacturing / research process.

There are several fun / nonsense assembly line videos on YouTube like a LEGO Car Production, a Paper Plane Machine, and of course the Great Ball Contraption. So it would definitely be up to the task, but has it ever be done?

Here are a few examples of LEGO being used for practical and useful purposes I remember seeing. I'm sure there are many others:

Some LEGO liquid-handling robots and experiments for STEM education and research: https://journals.plos.org/plosbiology/article?id=10.1371/journal.pbio.2001413

Here, MIT is using LEGO for micro-fluids: http://news.mit.edu/2018/microfluidics-lego-bricks-0131

There are several examples of LEGO used for prostatic research and development, like this one: https://www.wired.com/2015/07/lego-makes-everything-bettereven-prosthetic-kids/

And here is a LEGO Braille printer developed by a student: https://www.usatoday.com/story/tech/2015/01/20/braille-lego-printer/22055135/


How to best measure compatibility among Lego and clones? A top complaint I see about clone brands is the quality: specifically the flimsiness of the plastic, premature discoloration, or poor fitting with either other bricks of the same brand or with Lego. I've never seen a quantified study of the various clones though. I consider the poor fitting issue the worst issue. How hard/expensive would it be to build/buy a device to measure the force of attaching and detaching plates and bricks?

My anecdotal experience: I have Lego, Sluban, Cobi, Xingbao(Lepin), and 2 other brands that I'm not sure of the source. Among these, only the "Technique" axles  and axle holes from one of the unknown brands are incompatible with Lego: Lego's axles are bigger so don't fit in the clone's axle holes, and the clone's axles have no friction in Lego's axle holes. But having numbers to post in an article and point at would be nice.

How hard/expensive would it be to build/buy a device to measure the force of attaching and detaching plates and bricks?

Thankfully we don't need to think too hard on that, as pcantin has already built a similar device, admittedly built for measuring the repetitions it takes for a brick to lose its clutch power. But it should not be too hard or expensive to modify that design to include something that can measure the exact forces involved. Or it maybe possible to measure the amount of current required by the servo during attaching or detaching and to infer the involved forces from that and thus solve the problem witout requiring any major hardware alterations.

But if your goal is to compare a number of various bricks, I'd recommend a different route. Attach a number of nominally same bricks (i.e. a bunch of 2x4 bricks for example) together in a stack, then pull the two end bricks apart. This way you are applying some force to the top and bottom bricks which gets transmitted across all intermittent bricks. By increasing the applied force the two bricks with the weakest bind will separate first, be they anywhere in the stack. This is akin to finding the weakest link in a chain by pulling the end links apart to see which link break first.

Of course this will only tell us which connection (consisting of a brick's stud-side and another brick's antistud-side) has the weakest clutch power, but by repeating the same test with varied composition (all bricks from manufacturer A, the same bricks in another order, bricks from A mixed with bricks from B, bricks from A on the top and from B on the bottom, etc.) with some planning and measuring it should be possible to establish intra-manufacturer and inter-manufacturer variations in binding force.


Does LEGO generally restrict the sale of LEGO sets in a country? I live in Israel where LEGO are available but for insane prices. Generally 5X the price of a LEGO set online. I have called LEGO asking to have a LEGO set shipped to me, and they have told me that they will not ship directly. When purchasing from online sites, they tell me they can not ship to Israel.

Is this common practice internationally?

The LEGO Online Store states that it can deliver to:

  Your LEGO® order can be shipped direct to you or a friend/relative in select countries within Europe and even to North America and Asia/Pacific.

The list of shipping locations includes:

I guess they have their reasons for not including Israel in that list - presumably it's either because of excessive handling/customs fees or shipping reliability - I'm guessing that's more the issue rather than other sites being told they can't send LEGO (specifically) to Israel.

I found a guide for eBay sellers planning on shipping to Israel written by a user here which talks more about the customs issues.


LEGO Shell Ferrari 2012 Sets I am looking for information on the 2012 Shell V-Power Ferrari LEGO promotional sets. The sets include a Ferrari truck and a Shell Crew, and some more which I can't remember. Searching in Google brings up very little results. I can't find anything on the LEGO website or the Shell website. The on that I have was bought in Africa, so I don't know if they are avalible in Canada/US too.

What I am looking for is more information on these sets and where I can possibly get them. All I need is website links.

Picture of Sets:

The set numbers are 30190 through 30196, use that to look them up on bricklink/brickset note that 30196 is not shown on your picture, it had some kind of special status in that promotion (I don't remember the details).


Which BIONICLE set did this mask came from? I just unearthed a rather wealthy stash of semi-rare Great Kanohi masks. Never knew I collected them! Anyway, among them was this clear transparent Kaukau (Great Mask of Water Breathing):

You may recognize this mask in transparent blue as worn by Toa Gali and some Ga-Matoran (notably Hahli) on Mata Nui.

But what stumps me about this mask is the fact that it's not blue; it's colorless. I've looked in Peeron but it doesn't list this as one of the colors it occurred in.

Does anyone know which BIONICLE set this mask may have come from?

I found the answer while I was writing this question, but I'm posting question and answer just for dibs on the bionicle tag ;)

The Peeron page for that mask I just linked to lists the part number as 32571. I do a search for the part number, and come across the Brickipedia page for that part. Scrolling down, I find the source:

Transparent:

8525 Masks (random)
8530 Masks (random)

Apparently, I found this mask along with the numerous bronze and silver Great Kanohi masks in one of those mask packs.
Fun fact: this colorless Kaukau was designed to be wearable by Toa Kopaka, and possibly also the Ko-Matoran. The Toa is known to have had this mask equipped in BIONICLE Chronicles 1: Tale of the Toa, but it's not entirely clear if this is part of the canon. There aren't any named Ko-Matoran with this mask as far as I know.


LEGO servo (88004) controlled by Raspberry Pi using python pigpio I'm trying to control a LEGO servo (88004) using a Raspberry pi.
I would like to use pigpio to get a more precise control (no shaking, like with gpio PWM).

It's work with a regular servo (3 wires). It kinda works with the 88004, it buzz when I test it (both with c1 and c2), but I can't make it move :-( (see code below).

Anyone have a suggestions to this problem?

"Kinda" working python code.

import time
import pigpio

pi = pigpio.pi()

if not pi.connected:
   exit()

#sudo pigpiod -s8
c1 = 23
c2 = 24
pi.set_PWM_frequency(c1,1250)
pi.set_PWM_frequency(c2,1250)
print(pi.get_PWM_frequency(c1))

#use NAME (GPIO02 = 2)

while True:
   pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c1, 0)
   pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c2, 0)
   print "reset"

   try:

      pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c1,2000)
      pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c2,2500)
      print "c1"
      time.sleep(3)
      pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c1,0)
      pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c2,2500)
      print "c2"
      time.sleep(3)

   except KeyboardInterrupt:
      break

print("\nTidying up")

pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c1, 0)
pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c2, 0)

pi.stop()

I figured it out :-)
Using pi.set_PWM_dutycycle(c1, 128) # PWM 1/2 on makes it move.

In hindsight kinda obvious :)


What is this minifig/minidoll (?) Found this minifig or minidoll. What is it and where is it from? Tried asking the people in the store, they didn't know, and I couldn't find much by searching since I don't even know what type of minifig it is.

That is Jack Stone, a figure AFOLs love to hate.

from 4617-1: Dual Turbo Prop


reference number and instruction of a spaceship I have only an image of that spaceship, (and all briks of course) but I don't know its serial number which makes me hard to find instructions to rebuild it.
The image of the spaceship is this one, anybody can help me to rebuild it?

This set is 6848 Strategic Pursuer.

Instruction scans are available on Peeron.


Castle set identification (photo from 1993) Is this photo an actual set ? If yes which one, and if not, any idea what it's based upon ?
(if it's not a canon set, my own research suggest that's it's made from 6085 but I'm not sure).

I have identified a unique part, to help with search - Panel 2 x 5 x 6 Wall with Window with Window Stones Light Gray Pattern which has been used here.

It has been used in just two sets listed seen below, none of which look like your model
Black Monarch's Castle (6085) from 1988:

Black Knight's Castle (6086) from 1992:

So it seems like someone made a great MOC back in the days!


Is this part of a set? Are those pieces part of a set?
Or a random build of something?

The 'Red Slope, Curved 4 x 2 with White and Yellow Flames Pattern Model' part (right side of the picture, on the roof) comes in 2 variants: Left and Right.  However, both of these parts only exist in the same 1 set, 9441: Kai's Blade Cycle

Similarly, the 'Tail Shuttle with Lightning Pattern' (left side of the picture - also comes in Left and Right variants) come from 9442: Jay's Storm Fighter

(This also appears to be where those 2 large blue plates are from)
As such, this model must be a Maker's Own Creation (MOC), and not an official LEGO set.  So, yes, a 'random build of something'
Both of the sets listed are from the LEGO Ninjago: Rise of the Snakes series


Which resistor value is used for which motor in Power Functions 2.0? Based on the answer here it seems that resistors are used to detect what is plugged in with LEGO Power Functions 2.0.  So which resistor values (or ranges) apply to which motors or other devices?  Are there any values of resistance that lead to "unknown device" errors or something like that?

M Motor (Powered Up/WeDo 2.0)

The M motor has a 2.2kΩ resistor between pins 5 and 6. Pin 6 is connected directly to pin 3.

LED Lights

I don't own any lights yet, but according to this post, they also use a 2.2kΩ resistor, but in this case it is between pins 5 and 3. This pulls ID 1 to ground. Here's the full circuit diagram:

Train motor

The measured resistance between pins 5 and 6 shows an open circuit. Pin 5 is connected directly to VCC, and pin 6 is connected directly to ground.

Other components

I wasn't able to determine any sort of passive identification on any other components (Boost motor and sensors, etc). My guess is that these have an onboard microcontroller and use an active handshake before establishing a data connection.

Summary

M Motor
3 (GND) ─────┐
4 (VCC)      │
5 (ID1) ─2.2k┤
6 (ID2) ─────┘

LED Lights
3 (GND) ─────┐
4 (VCC)      │
5 (ID1) ─2.2k┘
6 (ID2)

Train Motor
3 (GND) ───┐
4 (VCC) ─┐ │
5 (ID1) ─┘ │
6 (ID2) ───┘


What disinfectant can I use on used LEGO parts? Possible Duplicate:
  LEGO cleaning techniques and tools

I usually purchase LEGO parts at yard sales and the like and would like to disinfect them before using them.  Can I use any spray disinfectant on parts without ruining them?  Should I be wary of any disinfectants that would cause LEGO parts to fade in color?

In the past I have used dish soap and a basin and just soaked them in hot soapy water for a while. I then learned that MegaBlocks float while LEGO sink.


Is it possible to use multiple IR beacons on different channels to control EV3? One IR beacon has very few buttons and I would like to buy additional beacons and use them simultaneously to be able to control more channels.

I can't find any information if this setup will work. Can anyone provide references or maybe from the own experience if multiple IR beacons can be used?

I don't want to buy them and then figure out that only one can be used at a time.

Yes, it is possible to use up to 4 beacons at the same time since there are 4 selectable infrared signal channels.

Also, the 8885 LEGO® Power Functions IR Remote Control is compatible with the EV3 Infrared Sensor if you have one of those already (it only has up down rocker switches and no beacon button, so it is not an exact replacement).

Other LEGO remote controls are not compatible.


The route a power line takes through a neighborhood I have a small Lego town built. I want to add power lines. However, I don't know how to route the power lines through the neighborhood. Should I create one line that snakes between all the houses? More than one line that take separate routes? Why do utility poles have so many lines on them in real life? Thanks!

As seen on your question about angles generally the connection from the power line to the house goes via either a Distribution Transformer (the grey cylinders in your image) where the power lines are run at a much higher voltage than domestic use and then either down the pole, into the ground for local delivery to the house or directly to the house.

In terms of how many lines and paths - I'd start from your primary sub-station where the main power lines come in and radiate out from there - initially with four lines, and then stepping down to two about half-way to two thirds out - effectively the lines are running in parallel, with each house drawing off their usage as it goes, so you'll see some drop off.

Depending on the final scale, more than four lines might look cluttered, whereas two will convey the impression of power nicely even if it's not physically accurate (a nice compromise might be three, with the third line running on top of the poles).


What is the cheapest way to collect clone trooper minifigs? I'm thinking of building a Star Wars Clone Trooper army and I was wondering what is the cheapest way to do so considering I need a few hundred.

I would say BrickLink... But it depends on how nitpicky you are, and what types of troopers you want. For example, if you're not trying to be ultra-canon with the Star Wars universe, you can just find the cheapest version of the Clone Trooper on BrickLink, and I'm sure you can find a decent price in a large quantity from a store.

Other than that, I would suggest Craigslist. Craigslist can be iffy, but if you live in a well populated area, it can be a great resource (provided you are cautious, of course). If you buy from people who are just trying to 'get rid of all this lego' you can usually get things for cheaper. Try not to buy from people who know what they talking about, because they are collectors and are trying to make a high profit.

To sum things up, your best bet is BrickLink. If you're not a stickler, I'm sure there are some ways to slightly reduce the cost.

Here's a good place to start:
92 New Clone Troopers 3.99 ea Definitely do some poking around, but this is one of the cheapest I could find if you want to buy large quantity of clone troopers. Obviously items that are 'used' will be cheaper, but the older troopers are more expensive, so the majority of cheap clones will be new.

I know this response was a bit rambly, so please let me know if there's anything I can clarify.


What IR Codes are the Power Function remotes sending to the receiver? The PF IR Speed Remote Control (the train one) is "7 speeds" but as I turn the dial to make it go faster it's hard to tell what speed it's at. I wonder if I could setup my programmable remote so that pressing 1 puts the train at speed one, 2 at two and so on. Is there a reference for this somewhere?

As with most things related to Power Function,s you can find this information on Philo's page on Power Functions.

If you scroll down a little, you'll find a link to "LEGO Power Functions RC" which is a document straight from LEGO outlining the PF RC protocol. The protocol does include commands to set an absolute speed.

Now, whether you can make sense of it is another story altogether. That's what HiTechnic used to create the NXT IRLink Sensor, and with it connected to a NXT you can indeed send the commands to set the speed to a defined level instead of increasing/decreasing.

Note that due to power limitations in the NXT, IRLink has a short transmission range.


How can I find the value of a LEGO set over several years? Bricklink has this handy feature on its site which allows you to view the average selling prices of a particular set based on previous auctions.

I like this feature, but unfortunately, it only displays trades made in the last six months.

Are there any tools that can track or display historical selling prices on sets. Preferably using data from popular LEGO auction sites like Ebay and Bricklink.

Not sure about several years, but Brickpicker covers one full year. Here are the stats for the Green Grocer, for example:

Or the ones for the UCS Millenium Falcon:

And so on, you get the idea. They have more and other stats, too — e.g. the following quick overview for every set:

They pull their data from eBay, through some third-party tool they licensed.

Now, I think they only let you look up like three sets at a time — then you have to register. But the registration is completely free. They cover their costs via affiliate marketing, i.e. links to Amazon and the like.

They can also sync your account with (i.e. import your sets from) Brickset and Rebrickable, but I never gave that a try. I'm not much of an investor anyway, just your typical AFOL. In fact, according to them, the prices for some of the discontinued sets I still have unopened have actually plummeted.

I suppose if I were in for the long haul, I would just take a screenshot of their stats every twelve months and then string them together in GIMP.


How can I store LEGO bricks to prevent damage? I have some LEGO bricks which are probably about 10 years old. They've neither changed color in any way nor dried out or anything, so it seems to be as stable as ever.

How should I store them so that my own children (and maybe their children) can play with them?

Plastic Bricks

Fading — Keep bricks away from natural light to avoid colour fading. (Models in Legoland Miniland are subjected to year-round weather. The chemicals in the plastic bricks are broken down by UV light.)
Heat — Keep bricks at room temperature in a dry place (like a cupboard). The melting point of a brick at 105 °C (221 °F) shouldn't be a concern.
Dust — Store bricks in air-tight containers. Dust is notoriously difficult to clean, especially around the studs of a brick. Whilst dust has no serious long-term effects on Lego, it saves a lot of time cleaning the bricks in the future.

Special Parts

Electronics — Always remove batteries from electronics when put into long-term storage. Over time the batteries may corrode, leaving a sticky mess that can be difficult to clean.
Rubber — Technic rubber bands and other pieces made of rubber will degrade over time when exposed to light and oxygen. Keep rubber bands in an airtight bag.
Stickers — How should I store unused stickers?

I'd save these last two points for LEGO merchants or casual online shoppers:

Smoke — Keep bricks away from cigarette smoke. It can be very hard to remove damage from bricks, and may discolour them as well as leaving a faint odour.
Pet Hair — If you plan on selling your LEGO bricks in the future, you may find some buyers have allergies to certain pets.


How to convert a bar into an axle or pin - Using the Axel Hub with Four Bars I would like to utilize the Axle Hub with 4 Bars (#48723) in a way that the four bars would become axles. What is the most concise way to accomplish that?

Here is a diagram of my end goal:

Here are couple of ideas. You could use pins:

Or axles with studs on the end:

Or axle connectors and axles:


How to find a set(s) contain most parts of my wanted parts list I have a parts wanted list (in BrickLlink) and I want to buy a set contain most of my parts wanted list.

Does there is a way to import a part list and find which set(s) contain most of them?

I've never tried it, but I suspect you can do this with Rebrickable.com. It lets you upload MOCs, which must have an inventory. It then lets you see how close your collection comes to building that set, including some possible piece substitution (i.e. similar parts, related molds, ignore colour, etc). Finally, it recommends sets to buy to increase your total. To my knowledge it doesn't try to optimize the "purchase" list to maximize coverage or keep costs down, but it should at least give you some candidates.

For example, when I try to build this MOC, it tells me I'm missing a bunch of black pieces:

Then it suggests some sets I might buy:

Note that the suggested sets are not always practical.


What is average weight of booklets (instructions) in %? As far as I understand weight of sets is noted on bricklink and other places includes all. I did not see how to list set's items along with weight in table on bricklink to check for that. Am I correct here? If yes, I want to know 'net' weight of parts alone, why doesn't bricklink have it too if it knows weights of parts?

IMHO weight of packaging is negligible, but I noted booklets can take up to 30% of weight. I've read sometime ago a post where a person claimed to extract bricklink data to database and made some other analysis. Anyway, anyhow, what is average weight of booklets (instructions) in %?

Bricklink has this information for most sets. If you search for the set number, you get several entries. The top one is the entire set, and has the weight for the full sealed box with parts and instructions. Then there are two more entries, one for the Instructions and one for the Box. See here for an example using set 41314 Stephanie’s House.

If you go into each of these entries, you will find a weight for each. In the case of 41314, the total set weighs 1340g, the instructions weigh 318g and the empty box weighs 210g. So, doing the math, the pieces alone (assuming any stickers have negligible weight) weigh 1340-210-318=812g.

I don’t think there is a clear percentage for the weight of the instructions compared to the weight of the set, but feel free to use the BrickLink API to extract the above 3 pieces of information for ALL sets and calculate the average. I think you will find that the percentage varies due to a number of factors, such as: the number of instruction books used, the quality of the binding (some books are glued, some have staples), the weight of the paper used (some instructions use thinner paper than others), the set theme (IDEAS sets tend to have long explanatory stories before they dive into instructions), etc.


Two motors are driven forward, why are they rotating in different directions? I have the Lego Mindstorms EV3 Pack and built a simple car with 3 wheels. The back wheels are motorized.

When I run the following code:

Motor.A.backward();
Motor.D.Backward();

both motors are rotating in different directions. I could understand if backward needs to be interpreted as forward. But how come that the motors are behaving differently?

It is basically not a big drama, I could build a wrapper to handle this. But still: When I want to use a chassis implementation, I would maybe run into that problem?

The "forward" and "backward" expressions are only interpreted in the reference frames of the motors themselves and translate to clockwise and counter-clockwise. In your case you must have mounted the motors in a way which requires them to rotate in different directions in order to propel the vehicle.

Consider a car with four wheels: in order to go forward, the wheels on the left hand side need to rotate counter-clockwise but those on the right side must turn clockwise.

While most chassis types share this property, it is indeed possible to build a chassis that requires both motors to be driven in the same direction for the vehicle to advance. In that case the program must be adjusted to accommodate for that.


Is it possible to determine the approximate age of these bricks only by seeing their injection points? Is it possible to determine the approximate age of these bricks only by seeing their injection points?

I cannot tell by the injection markings but having been a lego collector since 1967 I can tell that they are around that era. They look like some of the original ABS plastic. I also have some even older lego bricks in my collection (circa 1960) and they are of a different plastic but you cannot see the molding points on those.