Looking for instructions to Mega Bloks "Blok Bots" sets I need instructions for Mega Bloks "Blok Bots" set 9375.  I have parts for another one, but I don't know which one. If I get instructions for 1 or 2 sets I'll be able to figure it out.

The instructions for the set you are looking for can be found here:

https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9375.pdf

Here are some instructions for some other sets from that series:

https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9392.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9391.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9374.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9371.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9344.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9343.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9341.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9331.pdf

For whatever reason, the availability of instructions for these sets is inconsistent.


Help! What set is this? I have a lego bag only. I am trying to figure out what set the bag goes to. It's bag number 3 and has pieces that look like they go to a green vehicle of some sort. Possibly a truck?

Spider-Man: Spider-Cycle Chase (Set 76004)

I found this by going to bricklink.com, searching for a recognizable piece, then seeing which sets that piece could be found in.


Broken pneumatic distribution block I have a first-generation Lego Pneumatic set (nr 8851) that I recently took out of storage. I remembered from the last time I built the set that the pneumatics weren't working and I just confirmed that this is still the case.
After some experimentation, it turns out that the pneumatic distribution block is not doing its proper job of providing pressure only on one outlet and suction only on the other outlet, so it seems to be broken internally.
My question is, given that this part is specific to the first generation pneumatics and has been out of production for over 30 years, is it worth it to look for a replacement of this part, or is it to be expected that due to the age of the parts, the internals have deteriorated to the point that I need to be very lucky to find a working one?
Another option I am willing to consider it to try to repair the piece I have, so any advice in that direction is also welcome.

I do not own such piece, so cannot tell if they all are broken by this time. However I have a suggestion regarding acquiring a replacement.
Bricklink is a dedicated to trading just LEGO items, so I can recommend to look here for replacement. While some of the sellers do not check functionality of all the items they sell it is considered items should be in a working state unless stated otherwise. It would be best to ask a seller (that you have chosen to buy the item from if it works) to test the piece if you ask them before placing an order.
The item you should be looking for on Bricklink is called Pneumatic Distribution Block 2 x 4 with Non-return Valve.


Is it safe to remove PC (polycarbonate) arms from minfigures? I would like to replace the clear PC arms on the Chima ice figures with opaque ABS.  Would I still be able to use the clear PC arms with other figures after I have removed them?

I know that removing and replacing arms makes them slightly weaker and can only really be done once, what I am interested in is the relative durability of PC and ABS in this regard.

The clear PC arms are more brittle, however you should be able to replace them at least once, since the torso you are placing it into is ABS - so there is a bit of a give/flexibility on that side.

One thing to be careful of, is when you take out the PC arms (and when you put them in a new torso), do not hold the arms by the hands! This will put pressure on the wrists and can make the more brittle PC plastic crack. Either hold the arms further up, or even better, take out the hands first, then the arms. Hope this helps.


What is different between the EV3 Home and Educational sets? The newly announced LEGO Mindstorms EV3 sets for home and education have some differences, but it isn't clear to me what they are, specifically.  It seems that have different sensors, perhaps different exotic pieces (like a remote or caster wheel) and possibly slightly different software.  Granted, the sets have not been released, but, what do we know about that is different in the two sets?

Both sets include an EV3 intelligent brick.

Hardware

The Retail (Home) edition (set 31313) includes:

2 large motors, 1 small
1 touch, 1 color, 1 infrared proximity , 1 remote IR beacon

The Education set includes:

2 large motors, 1 small
2 touch, 1 color, 1 Ultrasonic with red LED, 1 Gyro
1 rechargeable battery (battery charger sold separately)

Software

The software for the education version is sold separately to the core set. As well as the programming software, includes datalogging tools, and a firmware version that allows on-brick datalogging.

There is also a difference regarding sensor support: only the education version provide blocks to manage ultrasonic and gyro sensors included in that version. NXT temperature sensor and Energy meter are supported too. And of course, models being different between edu and retail versions, the building instructions that are included in the software are different.

Robots

Each edition includes different Technic bricks and instructions for different robots. You can find a list of those robots at the LEGO Mindstorms EV3 Comparison project, and product pictures on Robot Square.

Parts

The EV3 Expansion Set adds many Technic bricks for even more robots and is suitable as an upgrade for both sets. However, to build all robots officially published by LEGO for either set you need to buy additional parts in any case.

The LEGO Mindstorms EV3 Comparison project on GitHub lists all parts in a spread sheet, tells you which pieces are missing from "education + expansion" to "retail + expansion" and vice-versa, so you can find out which parts (numbers + names) to order in addition.


Can I repair a broken LEGO brick with glue? I have a dump truck hinge piece that snapped in half when it got bent backwards too hard. Is there a type of glue that would be appropriate to repair the piece? Would superglue be a good choice? Obviously, it's never going to look new again, I'm more just concerned about the piece being functional if we wish to build more dump-trucks. Or is it a lost cause and after I go to all the trouble to glue it, it's just not going to hold?

Here's a picture of the broken part. Ldraw seems to list this hinge as parts 3324e + 314e

LEGO is very good about replacing broken parts - for free even.  Visit the web-site and look on the bottom of the page under Customer Service for a "broken or missing parts" link (I can't check at current locale).

This is worth trying even if the set is old or you didn't acquire it brand new. LEGO doesn't usually care where you got the set; but if it's not recent there's a risk that the part is not produced anymore, and then they won't be able to replace it. But try anyway, they're usually very friendly.

You can also try calling Customer Service directly.


Where is this turban headpiece from? Where is this turban headpiece from?

I believe that this is a non-LEGO custom turban piece:

It is manufactured by BrickForge and is available for purchase directly from them. It's currently not available in Sand Green though, so if you're hoping to get your hands on this exact piece, you'll need to check BrickForge resellers or secondary markets such as Ebay.


2 Red LEGO compatible bricks I'm not sure where I got these 2 pieces from, and I'm wondering what are they, and which brand they belong to.

They are LEGO-compatible, but definitely not genuine LEGO.

There are no identifying marks.

Here are some photos:

Those look like Best-lock bricks.

The red looks to be lighter and more-transparent, like Best-lock bricks do compared to Lego.

The studs have no markings.

The 1/2/5 looks like the ones found in Best-lock sets, like this one.


Help identifying LEGO set, smaller pieces with M printed on them? These are smaller LEGO's than my kids normally play with. Some have an "M" on it and some still have "LEGO" on them.  What sets could these be from?

http://lego.wikia.com/wiki/Modulex From the sounds of it looks like they are part of the Modulex line that was released for professionals. From what I've read they are smaller than normal LEGO system parts.


Buying minifigure parts at the Lego Store Is it possible to buy individual Minifigure parts (like minifig heads only) at the LEGO store? (the physical ones, not the online) if so, how much would they go for?

Short Answer: Yes, you could buy minifig heads at a lego store.
Caveats: The heads are part of the "build-a-mini" feature of the lego store. So while you could technically just pick 1 head, you would still be charged for the whole set ($9.99 in USA, I believe). So you may as well pick whole minifigs + 1 accessory + hair/hat. Variety of head, torso, legs and accessories is limited and poor...

If you're ok with "generic", then it may not be so bad. If you need to build an army of medieval hun knights stormtrooper with galactic helmets... not so much.


Is there a way to draw LEGO figures using Blender? I have some basic experience in Blender. Is there any way to insert pre-drawn LEGO pieces into Blender?

First note that this question is a possible duplicate of Do any programs exist that allow you to build your own LEGO manuals?  With that, here is the answer:

(optional) Create a model in LEGO digital designer or LDraw and export it as a LDraw (*.ldr) file.
Install LeoCAD, and either open the model that you made in LDD/LDraw (recommended) or create your model directly in LeoCAD.
Export your model in LeoCAD as a 3D studio (*.3ds) file and import that in Bender.

I learned this technique from this very site less than a week ago and have already tried it out.  So far, it works great and has given me loads of ideas.

Edit: The Linux version of LeoCAD currently does not export to the *.3ds file format, so you can not set up a pipeline that way; I know this from experience.


Overview on how to use special Technic parts? I just came out of my "Dark Age" inspired by my kids growing up and getting more and more out of Duplo and into Lego. I bought a mixed lot of Technic parts and man, there are a lot of new parts!

So the question is: Are there any resources on how a part is typically used?

E.g. how are this 2 parts used?

In general, the best strategy would be to look up instructions for a set in which the piece is used.
Also a good strategy: ask here ;)

For the specific parts you mentioned, this picture might be helpful:

The 6641 element switches a driving ring in three positions, either engaging the left clutch gear (18946), the right clutch gear or neutral position in which neither is engaged...

My favorite set these elements are used in is is 8043:

This set has 4 motors, however one of the motors is used to turn switches consisting out of the discussed elements to ultimately provide 6 functions: left & right driving and turning the upper part on one position of the switch, while operating the digger (bucket, middle arm, lower arm) on the other position.


Differences in varieties of 2x2 tile ( 3068 3068a 3068b )? New AFOL here.

I am interested in the differences between the three flavors of 2x2 tile:

3068 Tile 2 x 2 (Undetermined Version)

3068a Tile 2 x 2 without Groove

3068b Tile 2 x 2 with Groove

Could someone explain the differences in these pieces, and perhaps post an image showing the differences?

The difference is actually explained within the naming, which comes from Bricklink, a place where people buy and sell LEGO items around the world. In cases like Bricklink, especially with AFOLs, it is necessary to know which exactly parts you are dealing with.

During the years LEGO has been upgrading parts, where Tile 2 x 2 is not an exception.

Initial version is 3068a, which comes without a groove - its side is same like any other plate - smooth. While it may look great in an assembly it is hard to remove - there is no real gap between a tile and other part it is attached to. There's also no stud on top you could somehow use to take things apart (for example, with brick separator).

So LEGO eventually updated this tile (Bricklink denotes it as 3068b) to include a small groove, which helps with disassembling tile from other bits without much effort.

Bricklink uses "Undetermined version" for cases where seller can list an item without specifying which actual type (with or without a groove) it is.

I don't have any old parts on hand to take a picture, however you can see both tiles used in digital form are different. Green one doesn't have groove and Yellow one has.


LEGO Safety: Known risks and how to avoid them? I run an after school program that teaches engineering to kids, mainly Kindergarten through 3rd grade (roughly ages 5 - 9).  I'm trying to educate my coaches as to the known safety risks regarding using LEGO bricks, so that they can be forewarned and can take steps to avoid them.  I think reading about specific, known cases, would be most helpful, along with any non-obvious preventative measures.

Anything that applies to class-safety would probably apply to home safety, too.

The most obvious risk is swallowing parts, even though at that age it's probably less likely to happen. Magnets are the most dangerous, but LEGO has done a good job of hiding them recently.

Projectiles are also a risk, whether they are intended as such or not. Actual LEGO lauching machanisms (zamor spheres launchers, for example) can be quite dangerous and there's always an icon in the instructions to warn children of that risk.

Electrical parts can be hazardous, in particular if liquids are close. Although LEGO does a good job of protecting its parts (I've heard PF motors run wel even underwater), be particularly careful of mains adapters.

Spinning parts. It's fun, until you pinch you finger between two fast-spinning gears. Why do you think the saw blade first introduced with exo-force doesn't have a cross axle hole?

Pointy parts. LEGO tries to make them as soft as possible nowadays, or rubbery when possible.

And then there's the possible frustration of not being able to make the exact same creation that you have in mind.


How can I firmly attach a Technic triangle to a turntable? I found a couple good technic triangle designs over on brickengineer.com. For example:

How can I firmly attach a triangle to a large turntable?

Details:

Really I only need to attach parts at the points of an equilateral triangle. These triangles are for example only; Solutions don't necessarily need to use these specific triangle designs.
The setup should be able to rotate while bearing a small amount of weight (hence the turntable).

Have to say I'm not a big fan of the triangles you've already posted. In my opinion the half beams on the corners are too close together, causing stress on the elements.
Triangular technic designs are certainly possible, the following elements are useful:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=10288

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=57585


Programming RCX in 10.9 environment My school has 15 RCX robot kits that this year has just been sitting because all the old computers with OS X 10.4 are now gone and we are using OS X 10.9.  I would like to run the original RoboLab Software (1-2.0) because it is for middle school kids.  The graphic programming interface works great with these students.

Is there anyway I can do this.  I would hate to toss the 15 sets as they are still very usable. We also have 6 NXTs.

What are my options here?

For the RCX devices, if you want to use the RIS or RoboLab software on OS X, your best solution is to see if a VM image running Windows gives you what you want.

The main problem will be accessing IR Tower: the Mac doesn't have a COM port without a serial dongle (which could be had for cheap, but they can be a pain to use). And a USB Tower (if you have them) may not work in a virtualized environment. You would have to experiment.

Alternatively, you can use something like NQC or LeJOS for the RCX 1.0/1.5/2.x devices (any RCS 1.0 device will accept the latest 2.x firmware) on OS X. This is, of course, very command-line oriented.

Perhaps the latter solution could be reserved for the more advanced coders in the group.

I see that there is already an answer that enumerates some of the places you might be able to find RIS 2.0.


Is it expected that LEGO will produce small (S or XS) PF motors? The existing LEGO PF motors are the M, L, and XL, making builders suspect that the S and even the XS names were left out and reserved intentionally for later designs. However, the M motor was released ten years ago, and we have not seen any smaller motors.

Are there any (pro or con) signs suggesting that those motors will or will not be released in the future?

Generally, speculative questions are considered off-topic, but in this case very little speculation is required to answer the question.

The clear answer is that S or XS PF motors will never be released.

The entire PF system is on its way out and is being replaced by the newer Powered Up system. For this reason, I would expect production on existing PF components to stop soon, and it seems highly unlikely that TLG would introduce new elements for PF at this point.

It is of course possible that they will include smaller motors as part of the Powered Up system at some point.


Which set is this bag 3 from? This is the bag. Please help me identify and find instructions.

THe appearance of  part 973pb2859c01 - Torso Scuba Vest with Utility Belt with Pouches and Lavender Tentacles Pattern / Yellow Arms / Black Hands means this is from one of these 3 The Lego Ninjago Movie sets.

The dominance of Red and Black bricks, combined with the presence of part 78c02 - Flat Silver Hose, Ribbed 7mm D. 2L narrows it down to set 70615 - Fire Mech.


What's the purpose of brick 46835 (two wheels clutched into each other) There is this strange wheel-like part consisting of two pieces snapping into each other and offering to insert axles from both sides, as shown in the first image.
What is the purpose of this part instead of just using a straight axle? I see that the holes for the axles are twisted by 45° between the two parts, but for that purpose, a much simpler part similar to the tubes joining two axles could be designed. The only purpose I can vaguely imagine is that it's sort of a clutch limiting the torque to prevent damage.
I particularly wonder why this is used in the track roller of the Liebherr excavator as shown in the second image below.

This is a torque-limiting component. When one side is prevented from turning but the other side is forced to turn, the inner piece comes out of its "click location" and into the next one.
It requires quite a large torque before it activates. You will not be able to generate the torque just by turning the two components with your bare hands. To see the effect, you may need to attach axles and large wheels, or lever arms, or use gears, or a motor.


Partial Truck needs to be identified I've acquired a partially built truck (2 sets wheels so not huge), of which the bottom section is all I have (from the floor down). There is a transfer on both sides (on red bricks, which made me think of a fire truck, but no luck). This sticker looks like an advertisement or sponsorship logo you might see on a vehicle. It says Octan, then Tele (with the top of the T being a telephone receiver), then a white square with a black border with the initials CB in black typeface in it. It also has a tow hitch on the rear. Any ideas what model number I've got?

Based on your description of the brick with “transfers”, which I assume are stickers, there is only one set that has Octan and Tele logos on it: 60084 Racing Bike Transporter. This set seems to match the rest of your description as well.


Articulations : which technique to use on small constructions for sturdiness? So I have been using LEGO® for a rather long time and over the years, I started going towards small constructions. While doing this, I began building rather small robots (Mobile Frames for those who know), between ~8cm and ~11cm or approximately 8 to 11 studs.

Those mechs I build are articulated and I want them to have as many articulations as possible (e.g. a leg should have a hip, a knee and an ankle, not only a hip).
The problem is the sturdiness of the whole construction. I have tried multiple options and the articulations are often either too weak to stay in position correctly or too fragile to support other parts, leading to structure vulnerability and eventually destruction of either portions of or the whole robot.

My question is the following : do you know any compact yet sturdy articulation building technique or any small articulation part ?
Bonus : if you can provide a method allowing me to build more or less on the articulation (not sure if that's very clear).

EDIT : For posing reasons, the articulation needs to have some 'friction' to keep a specific angle.

Should there be any problem with the question (wrong formulation, bad English, need for clarification), please don't hesitate to point it out.

The AT-ST & Endor (9679) uses cogged connectors (4210884 + 4211803, I don't know if the combination of both parts has a name) for the legs. These connectors are pretty strong for their size, they may be sturdy enough for your model if it's not too heavy.

For bigger constructions and higher degrees of freedom, beam with balls and cups can be used, they allow rotations and movements in two axis. For example, the Beam A 5M Ball/Cup Ø10.2 (they are other similar parts on Bricklink):

For example, General Grievous (75112) arms and legs can be adjusted in many ways:


How can I connect CCBS parts to plain LEGO system? Can anyone explain how the front shoulder was built in this MOC?

Are there bricks that allow easy connections between CCBS and plain System?

There are several parts that make this possible. Many of the CCBS-style ball socket parts include Technic axle connections that can ultimately be attached to system bricks (e.g. 93571 and 50923). There are several examples of this in the Exosuit (instructions):

There are also several Technic ball socket parts that include System studs such as 57910:

Here's a list of Technic bricks with ball sockets that might be helpful.

There are also other connections that are shared between CCBS parts and system, such as bar connections, you just have to get creative. Feel free to ask additional questions if you are having trouble integrating particular parts.


How to clear off oils in a way that will not damage the plastic? Especially with the pneumatic cylinders, so it has to not make the metal rust too. Also, it is oxidized vegetable that is stuck in there, inside the pneumatic cylinders. And it started to make it all sticky inside. I used some Rem oil, which is a gun-cleaning grease that has Teflon in it, and it didn't really help. It just stayed the same.

Your question is general, so I'll try to answer generally, but I'll use the pneumatic cylinder as an example since you mentioned it.

If applicable, the first thing you'll want to do is break down the part(s) as much as possible. Open up the pneumatic cylinder and separate out the parts:

I'd recommend cleaning everything separately, lubricating the necessary parts, then putting everything back together.

For cleaning off oil and oil residue, you'll want some sort of solvent that is safe to use on ABS, such as WD-40. That should break down more viscous oils, gunk, and rust, but will also remove printing from printed parts. You can scrub ABS with a soft cloth without causing damage. If that isn't enough, you can get more aggressive and use something like steel wool or sandpaper, but this will cause light scratching. I've successfully use steel wool on the metal portion of pneumatic cylinders to remove rust, and it works nicely.

Once you have all the heavier oil and grime washed away, you'll want to use a common dish washing detergent to remove the remaining oil. I just put a few drops with water in a jar and shake with the parts inside. Rinse everything off, and repeat as needed if there is still any oil left on the parts.

In order to prevent rusting and ensure proper functioning of the parts, once the parts are clean and dry you'll need to now lubricate anything that was lubricated before since we've removed all the oils and lubricants. You can use any oil that is safe on ABS for this. I've use Vaseline on the rubber piece and cylinder shaft before and it has worked well.


What happens to the portions of large glued displays that aren't retasked into a different display? When LEGOLAND dismantles a glued display, is it recycled into something other than LEGO, or do they have to be thrown away?  I know certain portions of a display might be utilized again in a different display, like some cars and trailers from the now defunct Speedway at LEGOLAND California were, but what happens to the rest of the model?

In most cases they would be reused in other parks, donated to LEGO retail stores, auctioned for charity or hidden away from park visitors. As a last resort, LEGO models can and will be recycled to create new bricks.

The LEGO auction site, Bricklink has a fairly hidden place to trade glued models and retail displays.


What's the fastest way to rebuild different sets that have been brought together My mom did something to my LEGO. When I was a kid I loved playing with them. Frankly I have no interest in it anymore.  She broke down all them sets, and put them all in a huge box.

I still can figure out some parts, but I don't know if it's better to break down every piece and rebuild from scratch.  I'm not talking about 3 or 4 sets, more like 20 to 30 LEGO sets worth around 3k to 4k euro...  I want to resell it, sadly she took away the building books and the boxes and did them away too.

In order to gain value out of this, you're going to have to put some work in.

Start with the largest sized kit that you remember doing and assemble the parts (find the building instructions online).  Then move onto the next smallest, and so on.

Obviously, you're not going to remember the details of all the kits you had, but the largest ones should be more memorable (and usually they're worth more).


What set does this brick come in? This brick is part of a 1980-1990's set.
Does anyone know which one?

That's Slope 45 2 x 2 with 3 Gauges and 3 Knobs Pattern and was available in 23 sets.


How can I preserve opened Lego packages? For some reason I keep my old Lego boxes (since the 1980s), and my son's old Lego packages. Because they are quite large, they take up a lot of space in my house, even if they are put one into another. I suppose I am not the only one (see this comment) who keeps them.

I actually don't know why I store them — maybe some psychological issue — but how can I effectively store old packages? And those of you who keep old boxes, do you ever display them, or browse them? Or do you just keep them?

Well I used to keep mine as well. One thing I found very good was to take a razor or a box cutter and cut the front and backs off! this may seem obvious or defeat the purpose, but it made them easier to store. I would stack them all and slip them on a shelf or under my bed to keep them flat. This proved to be a very effective solution. Also, you could try to collapse them at the ends to have them take up less room as well.


Reading current motor speed, opOutput_Read I'm trying to read current motor speed using direct command:

Instruction        opOutput_Read (LAYER, NO, *SPEED, *TACHO)
Opcode             0xA8
Arguments          (Data8) LAYER – Specify chain layer number [0 - 3]
                   (Data8) NO – Port number [0 - 3]
                   (Data8) *SPEED – Output speed level detected, [-100 - 100]
                   (Data32) *TACHO – Current output tacho count

When I'm sending something like this:

unsigned char opOutput_Read[]
{
    0x0A, 0x00,              // bytes in message
    0x00, 0x00,              // message counter
    DIRECT_COMMAND_REPLY,    // tt   = Direct command with reply
    0x02, 0x00,              // 2 values will be returned
    0xA8,                    // opOutput_Read,
    GV0(0),                  // speed in return
    GV2(1)                   // tacho in return
};

I'm getting DIRECT_REPLY_ERROR. What am I doing wrong?

The TACHO parameter is 4 bytes (32 bits).

(Data32) *TACHO – Current output tacho count

However, you have only allocated it 2 bytes (16 bits)

GV2(1)                   // tacho in return

Try using GV4 instead of GV2.


Help identifying LEGO set with yellow construction vehicle arm? Could you please help identify this partly assembled set? I have already scoured the Internet looking for images to no avail. I have looked through the instruction books we have. It has possibly come in a job lot purchase. Many thanks.


How to share a fan robot with LEGO? I've made a really awesome robot with LEGO Mindstorms EV3 (and I'd like not to say what it is here). I've seen fan robots on the LEGO site, and I wonder whether they could add mine on the site. I've seen a site for uploading ideas for LEGO kits, but I can't find anywhere to upload robots. Can anyone please help?

It looks like you don't quite understand how those robots became supported by Lego.
You see, EV3 was released in 2013, and they've supported only 12 fan robots. That's not a lot, and if they were still accepting fan robots for years they definitely would've had more robots on their site. I have an unofficial book by Laurens Valk about EV3 programming, in this book he has instructions for about 3 more of his robots. Yet none of them are on the site.
Why am I even mentioning a Lego fan and his book? Because this page says that the race truck was designed by him. That's the only model he made that's on their site, but there are some people who have had multiple models of theirs accepted by Lego. They are Martyn Boogaarts and Kenneth Madsen. And I could've sworn that I saw a video(s) somewhere where they were interviewing the designers of these robots.
Looks like they were only accepting fan robots from skilled EV3 users.


Where did "Cheese Slope" get its name? Why is this piece called a "cheese slope"?  "Slope" I get; but "cheese"?

A cheese slope resembles a chunk of cheese from a cheese wheel. They happen to also be the perfect size for minifigures to interact with:

‘Lego Cheese Farm’  by AIatariel, http://www.flickr.com/photos/alatariel1181/10582728886/


How do I diagnose a problem with electronic bricks and motors? My children and I recently assembled the 42030 RC VOLVO L350F Wheel Loader (aside: with the 1,600 pieces and time investment, this set will likely survive to the heat death of the universe intact because nobody wants to take a day or two to reassemble it into something else).

As soon as we took it out of the box we knew it likely had a problem because none of the motors worked when we plugged them together and put batteries in the battery pack and remote controls. We built it anyway (that sucker took around 7 hours to build between the two of us that stayed awake), knowing that if a part is defective we could probably cross-ship a replacement from LEGO.

Now that it is assembled, it still does not work. We have double-checked everything according to the instructions. When we use the remote, nothing happens on the assembled set. Asking the Internet brings up plenty of positive reviews, but nothing about problems with this set.

How do we troubleshoot which part is defective, or if there is an error on our part? Ideally, such advice would be applicable to any set that has motors, battery packs, and remote controls.

What we have verified so far:

The battery pack lights up when we turn it on. The motors beep and spin for a brief moment, indicating they are receiving power through the receivers.
Unplugged and replugged everything.
I tested both remotes and the battery pack with a multimeter, verifying correct voltage and amperage across the two contacts on the end. The batteries are not the problem: these are brand-new batteries that expire in eight years, and they output nominal volts and amps.
We tried different communication channels between the remotes and receivers.

I have not been able to verify function without the battery pack or receivers because I am not sure how much current to apply to an individual motor, nor do I wish to experiment and make the situation worse.

What else can I try before I contact LEGO and spend a week or more waiting for replacement parts?

I haven't ever used Power Functions remote-control elements, so I can't give you a complete answer from experience, but here are two simple tests:

Connect the battery box directly to each motor, leaving out the remote control receiver entirely. The motors should spin when the light on the battery box is lit, and the slide switch should allow reversing the direction.

Caveat: Looking at the parts list for 42030, one of the motors is a “servo” motor. I don't know exactly how to expect it to behave when connected directly to a battery box, but LEGO's description suggests it should at least move.
Use any camera with a live view or video recording (not an optical viewfinder), such as that on any smartphone, to look at the transmitter while you press buttons. The infrared signal should be visible as a purplish-white dot.

(This occurs because most cameras are more sensitive to near-infrared light than our eyes are, unless they have unusual filtering. This also can be seen with any infrared TV remote control.)

On electrical testing:

  I have not been able to verify function without the battery pack or receivers because I am not sure how much current to apply to an individual motor,

This suggests that you are confused about how electric circuits work. Outside of specific electronic circuits, you do not choose how much current to apply; the load (here the motor) expects a specific voltage and then draws current according to its needs. (For a motor, the current depends on how much load is on the shaft: a motor not connected to anything will draw much less current than one which is stalled.)

(If you're actually referring to a current-limited power supply, then never mind.)

The voltage for Power Functions is 9 V (or somewhat less), as indicated by the 6 cells in the battery box.

You should be able to apply 7-9 V to the two closer to the middle contacts of the motor's plug (for the simple motors, not the servo motor) and get it to spin. However, it will be tricky to make a connection without the special plug, so if you attempt this be very careful not to short out your power supply. I would suggest not trying it; the battery box should be a reliable power source.

Instead, check the outputs of the battery box with a voltmeter. Between the outer two contacts you should find around 9 volts (for alkaline batteries) or 7.2 volts (for NiMH rechargeable batteries). Between the middle two contacts should be the same voltage, but it will reverse polarity depending on the slide switch.

(Try not to short out the contacts by letting your meter probes touch each other, but if you do, it won't be disastrous: LEGO battery boxes have overcurrent protection. If you do trip the protection then the output will be low or zero for a while before it resets.)


Can I install EV3 Education software and Retail software side by side? I have EV3 Retail edition and I like to buy required sensors and build the robots come with the education edition of EV3. I have lots of LEGO Technic spare parts so I expect I can find alternate parts if required.

Can I install EV3 Education software and Retail software side by side?

Yes. I have done this on both Windows and Mac.

I've only noticed one minor problem. On Mac, the program ID is the same for both versions, so only one of the two shows up in the Launcher. However you can still start the other by using ⌘+Space, for example.


Can you identify this 1x2 brick with groves going opposite directions on each side? There are about 20 of these bricks in the set. Nothing else that stands out as unique. This may be a long shot.

Part #2877 Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Grille (Flutes).


What can I do with this steering wheel? I found this steering wheel + "dashboard" combination among some parts I bought.

What is it, in what kind of models is it used, and can I do anything else with the "dashboard" (for lack of a better word)? It seems like a rather large and specific part, just to hold a steering wheel.

This steering wheel is from 4613-1: Turbo Chopper, as this is the only one with an orange version of this element.


Can I use RCX sensors and motors with the NXT brick? I have a bunch of motors and sensors from the original Mindstorms set. It seems a shame I can't use these with the more recent NXT set. Are there any unofficial modifications that allow you to convert the cables?

LEGO used to sell Converter Cables for Mindstorms NXT at a price of £8.99 / US$9.99 for 3 cables at their online shop, they can still be bought online from stores like Bricklink.

Considering the price of each cable converter it may be worth purchasing newer sensors/motors that are more advanced. The NXT system cables are separate from sensors and motors and come in different lengths.


Why does the Duplo bathtub piece have an odd height? I have recently come in touch with the Duplo bathtub piece.

While it is mainly a bathtub whose bottom is shaped in such a way that it can be placed on Duplo studs, one of the piece's sides also features two studs on top. This suggests the bathtub can be integrated into other constructions such as walls, similarly to other furniture pieces such as the toilet piece.

Curiously, though, the bathtub does not seem to have a height that fits with other Duplo bricks. It is taller than a Duplo brick, but not as tall as 1.5 Duplo bricks (or a Duplo brick plus a Duplo plate).

Why is that? Is there any way this non-standard height can be advantageous, just like e.g. the Erling brick's reduced depth that allows for sideways and upright integration? Can I combine the bathtub with its odd height with anything else at all?

One of our first ideas was to have the slide end in a bathtub. But with the bathtub's non-standard height, building a support for the slide is tricky.

Although we probably won't get a definite answer to why this decision was made, unless a LEGO part designer steps in to answer the question, here are some things to consider.

The LEGO DUPLO bathtub, toilet, and sink all have two studs at the end. Looking through all the sets these pieces appear in, the studs are used for attaching accessories, like a shower head (for the bathtub), mirror (for the sink), or printed bricks with various bathroom accessories. They are not made to be integrated into a wall (at least not as a primary feature).

Even though the toilet and sink are 1.5 LEGO DUPLO bricks tall with two studs, I can find very few examples when this was taken advantage of by incorporating the pieces into a wall. In the vast majority of LEGO DUPLO sets, the bathtub, toilet, and sink are freestanding next to a wall, and often next to each other. To mimic realism, the bathtub needed to be shorter than the sink, but tall enough to fit a figure - thus the odd height.

In the case of LEGO DUPLO accessories, furniture pieces, and fixtures, this is often the case. LEGO DUPLO element designers will make sure a piece can fit with other pieces in at least one primary way, but there are other considerations as well, like scale in relation to other pieces and fitting the figures properly.

We should remember that while LEGO DUPLO is a construction toy, it is meant to be for the youngest of children. So, while building and rebuilding is possible, the parts are not designed to be attached using complex building techniques or repurposed in many different ways, as we see in LEGO System sets.

As far as the idea of integrating the bathtub with the slide, how about putting a couple of LEGO System plates under the pieces to even out the height? LEGO System plates are compatible with LEGO DUPLO if placed on the underside. I do not have the pieces to test this out myself, but OP's question made me curious.


Identification for Hinge-like Piece I'm trying to follow building instructions on Brickshelf, but I'm having some trouble finding the piece on the right in this photo:
.

Anyone know what it is?

Yes, this is a 30375 - Torso Mechanical, Battle Droid in black.

It's a little difficult to identify as it is lying on its belly, and hence you do not see the characteristic single stud front of this piece.


Ideas to slow down RC PF train motor (Item: 88002) I'm wondering if you already tried to slow down such a motor. I would like the train to run slower at all the supported 7 speeds. Anyway, at speed 7, the train just flies off the tracks.

Unfortunately it's direct drive so gearing it down really isn't an option. That leaves changing the electrical system.

What battery are you using? Fundamentally, any change to the electrical system is going to amount to "use a half flat battery", and if you're using a high-voltage battery now the easy option is to switch to lower-voltage rechargeable batteries. But that only works if you're currently using disposable AAA batteries in the 88000 battery box (or 6 AA's in the bigger one that I don't think I've ever seen in a train). If you are, switching to either NiMH AAA batteries or the the Lego LiIon battery pack 8878 will give you the effect you want.

Based on Philo's extensive comparisons but it's the speed/voltage graph that you probably care about more:

What you want to do is lower the voltage at each setting of the controller, and that means adding a resistor in series with the motor.

If you're currently using rechargeable batteries, the only option I can see is to modify the motor or IR receiver. It's just adding a resistor in the cable, so it's relatively easy to do and also to undo, but it's going to look messy and it will be more fragile than the unmodified item. If you're unsure (which I assume you are, since you're asking here rather than just doing it), it's probably better to buy an extension cable and modify that.

Your motor draws about 1.3A when stalled, and from the speed/power charts lower down, about 0.4A when running. I'm going to guess you want to lose about 1V from the 7V output of the receiver, so you need about 1/0.4 = 2.5Ω. Since that Needs to cope with about 1A, it would ideally be a 3W or 5W resistor but you can probably get away with 1W. I suggest using 2, 5Ω 1W resistors in parallel since resistors typically come in 1W and 5W sizes, and in 10% increments so you actually want 5.6 ohm. RadioShack sell them, as should any other electrical part supplier.

Again, Philo explains what the wires do (2/3 down the page), and the easy way to do this is to put the extension between the battery and the IR receiver. That way you put the resistor on an outside wire of the four. If you can solder the resistors in place it'll work better, but if you can't just stripping the wires and twisting them in place then holding it together with tape will work.


Round Plate 1x1 Dimension What are the dimensions of the following Lego Part:

I know of the basic dimensions shown in this graphic.

I believe, the diameter of the largest Ring is 7.8mm.
However, I'm missing the following two measurements:

diameter of the base-cylinder
height of the base-cylinder
height of the small big middle cylinder

You can derive detailed part geometry using the LDraw parts library. LDraw provides freely accessibly models for nearly every part that Lego has produced. I'd recommend parsing these parts rather than rolling you own models if you're going to be using many parts.

Here is the relevant content of the file representing a 1 x 1 round plate:

1 16 0 3 0 -1 0 0 0 -1.25 0 0 0 1 stud4.dat
1 16 0 3 0 -6 0 0 0 -1 0 0 0 6 4-4disc.dat
1 16 0 3 0 -2 0 0 0 -1 0 0 0 2 4-4ring4.dat
1 16 0 0 0 10 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 10 4-4cylo.dat
1 16 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 2 4-4ring4.dat
1 16 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 2 4-4ring3.dat
1 16 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 stud.dat

LDraw uses its own custom file format. Units are in LDU and represent about .4mm.

I won't try to describe the format in detail, but lines starting with 1 simply include another file that is translated, scaled, and rotated based on the included transformation matrix.

Base cylinder

We can break the part definition down to its components. The outside of the base cylinder corresponds to:

1 16 0 3 0 -1 0 0 0 -1.25 0 0 0 1 stud4.dat

stud4.dat represents a ring that could fit a stud inside of it. It's present in many parts (e.g. underneath 2xn bricks and plates). It looks like this:

Its outside is represented as (from stud4.dat):

1 16 0 -4 0 8 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 8 4-4cyli.dat

The primitive 4-4clyi.dat (4 fourths of a cylinder) is a basic open cylinder:

Most LDraw primitives including this one are normalized size 1, so we start with a cylinder with height 1 and radius 1. A transformation matrix is then applied:

1 16 0 -4 0 8 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 8 4-4cyli.dat
            |               |
            +-------+-------+
                    |

                8   0   0
                0   4   0
                0   0   8

Now, it's a cylinder of height 4 and radius 8. This was also transformed by the original inclusion of stud4.dat:

1 16 0 3 0 -1 0 0 0 -1.25 0 0 0 1 stud4.dat

We need to multiply its height by 1.25 to get a cylinder of height 5 and radius 8. Here's the final result:

Base height = 1 * 4 * 1.25 = 5 LDU * .4mm = 2.0mm

Base diameter = 2 * 8 LDU = 16 LDU * .4mm = 6.4mm

Middle ring

If you followed all of that, the middle ring is easy. It's outer wall is represented by:

1 16 0 0 0 10 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 10 4-4cylo.dat

So, it's a cylinder with a 10 LDU radius and 3 LDU height:

Middle ring diameter = 2 * 10 LDU * .4mm = 8mm

Middle ring height = 3 LDU * .4mm = 1.2mm

Checking our work

The height of the base and the middle ring sum to 8 LDU, which is good because this is the correct height for a plate like this.

As you noted, you expected the outer ring to be 7.8mm, but I calculated it as 8.0mm. The reason for this is that LDraw uses the ideal sizes of bricks for its library. This is convenient for collision boxes in the theoretical world, but in reality, Lego has to make parts slightly smaller so that they fit between each other easily. As you mentioned, this tolerance is about .1mm per side, so we're in the right neighborhood with our calculations.

In addition, most things in LDraw end up rounded to 1 LDU, so measurements have a tolerance of around +/- .2mm. Most Lego parts fit very nicely into a 1 LDU grid, so this isn't usually an issue. I'm not sure what level of precision you require, but my hunch is that the LDraw library will get you close enough for your needs.

Good luck with your project, and let us know if we can help with anything else!


Are there additional motors and/or sensors that can be used to extend LEGO Boost? What extra motors and sensors can be bought to extend the LEGO Boost (17101) set?

I have heard the WeDo motors have the same connector but not if they are compatible with the Boost hub. Are they available separately?

I've tried attaching one of the Powered up motors from the batmobile set (76112) This motor looks identical to me as the WeDo motor (although brickset and bricklink don't list them as identical at the time of this writing)

I could not get it to work, all profiles of the fixed build models complain that the external motor is not attached. The free build profile doesn't have any block that looks like the M-motor and using the boost motor block doesn't work either.

So my guess would be that at the time of this writing, no additional components are currently available for the Boost set...

The other way around, i.e. attaching the Boost motor to the hub from the batmobile, works...

I also purchased LEDs last saturday from an official lego store (had to ask, they had them in the back) they work on the batmobile hub, but I can't get them to work on the boost hub.


In LEGO mindstorms NXT programming: is it possible to download a file from a robot onto the computer? I've lost the file for a project, but the robot still has it, and I'm wondering if it is possible to transfer the file onto my computer from the robot, and continue to work on it. How would you do this?

Yes, you can download it back in computer. But you can't work on it anymore - it is already compiled (has .rxe extension). However you can download it on another NXT and continue to use there. You can edit and work only with .rbt files.

My LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT program doesn't work anymore for already two months... Some problems with flash player. So I can't provide any screenshots.


LEGO Submarine waterproofing functional parts (e.g. motors, RC receivers) From my understanding, the motors and RC receivers are not waterproof. Thus, the LEGO submarine from Sariel's LEGO® Workshop rust after sometime.

So, is there any way to make the motors and RC receivers water-proof, so that it can be used as a submarine?

The method they used to secure the battery/controller was to wrap it in a sealed plastic bag, something similar to this could be done for the motors.  It would be more difficult since you would need a water tight bearing for the rotating shaft to exit the sealed bag.  These bearings are complicated and will still always allows some small amount of leakage.
An option to help prevent water leakage would be to fill the motor with a non-conducting fluid to displace any inflowing water, something like mineral oil.  I'm not going to try this with any of my motors, but it should work.  There is history of using mineral oil for electronics to aid in heat transfer (used by some extreme CPU over clockers) it is non corrosive and non conductive and will not rust the metallic components.
As an alternate just letting water in seemed to work for a while, you could prolong motor life, by ensuring the internals were thoroughly dried after removing them from the water.  This would most likely involve opening the housing and a dry air flush.  This would slow the rusting, which is much faster when water is combined with exposure to the oxygen present in air.
EDIT
Another method that could be used with actual Lego parts, use the Lego magnets to couple two shafts rotation together on either side of the plastic bag around the motor, this should have zero leakage.  There would be an upper limit on the torque possible before the magnets would slip and it would potentially cause wear onto the plastic bag if there is contact with the moving parts.


Why there are "unnecessary" bricks in 60080 LEGO City Space Port? I previously asked about bricks in invisible places. Now I have second question. There are some bricks that are hardly visible, and in no way contribute to strength of a model. For example lime brick inside space shuttle or red bricks in the launch platform.

Note, as you can see in instructions step 14 - there is nothing on the other side of red brick. It connects only to the long gray technic brick.

Is there any purpose? Are these bricks there to symbolize something? What's the benefit that would justify cost?

I have always assumed that the pieces in question were place holders to simplify assembly.  Their bright color and location help insure proper alignment for less experienced builders. One must realize that the set is marketed to 6-12 year old's. I imagine their testing has proven that such aides are very useful for younger builders.


LEGO part 3039 black with red sticker Wondering what set this came from.

After cross-referencing Part 3039 with the crystal piece shown on the sticker, Part 52, in each shade of green, I found it: Clash of the Heroes from the Batman vs. Superman sets. The sticker itself is sheet 76044stk01b.


How to open Duplo train base 2961b? How can I open a Duplo train base 2961b without destroying it? It is not working despite fresh batteries. There are no screws.

This part wasn't meant to be taken apart,
but it is possible.

Source with more text and images

also this (very dark) video tutorial

and another video tutorial


Alternative products compatible with LEGO I heard that lately a patent for LEGO expired and now everyone can create a company to produce bricks that are compatible with LEGO.

I am wondering how many of such companies are there.

I know one from my country, Cobi. Can you point me another alternatives?

there are at least:

KRE-O (not sure if this is compatible in size, but it looks exactly like LEGO)
Enlighten
Best-Lock
Blockmen (out of production)
Cobi (wich you already listed)
SuperBlox
iDol
Kazi (looks like poor quality)
Sluban (out of production)
Mega Blocks
Super Blocks (out of production)
Custom-Crazy
Sidan Toys
Arealight
Brickforge
Christo
BrickWarriors
Oxford
Little Armory
Nanoblocks (not sure, but looks smaller than LEGO, so this might not be compatible)

Note that some of this only produce custom accessories for minifigs, very small sets or exact copies of the official sets, no own really "big" sets like LEGO does


Modified 3x2 Plate with Rubber Bristle Bottom and snap-on cover? I've had this odd little part laying around my desk for some time - does anyone know what it is?  There's no Lego logo anywhere, and I've searched BrickLink somewhat comprehensively, so I'm guessing it's from a compatible set.

It's a modified 3x2 plate, but without a hole, and the red bottom part is sort of a rubbery, grippy substance.  The "cover" is softer, non-ABS plastic, and can snap onto the plate either way.

I'm guessing it came from my wife's nephews in a whole pile of stuff they gave us - mostly Lego but there was some MegaBloks stuff mixed in too.  Probably not from after 2000 at the very latest.

So, the curiosity bug bit me again.  The mysterious part appears to be a Kre-O "Motion Brick" which appeared in various sets. In my research I found that there is a variation (hollow vs. solid) in the studs, as shown in the picture.


What were the most and least popular LEGO themes? I know that Lego has a history of both popular (Lego city) and non-popular (Jack Stone) themes.

However, is there any hard data that back up popularity?

What were/are the most popular Lego themes/sets of all time and were what the least popular?

By definition, the popular themes are the ones that sell well, and the unpopular ones sell less well.

TLG are in the business of selling LEGO.  It makes business sense for them to offer for sale themes that have already proven popular, and withdraw from sale those themes which are least popular.

Based on these two observations, it seems obvious that themes that have a long run are typically the popular ones,  whereas those that don't last long are less popular.

One major caveat to this line of reasoning is that TLG focuses on total profit, rather than total sales, so even of a theme is popular, TLG may still withdraw it if it doesn't make money. For example, lots of people claim that they would buy monorail sets if LEGO made them again, but TLG's research suggests that the cost of the moulds would make them unprofitable.

There will be other exceptions, too. For example, LEGO might only have a short run of licenced theme, not because it is unpopular, but rather because f the ternms of the licence. And, on some occasions, LEGO might simply make a mistake, and stop a theme too early or too late.

Nevertheless, the long running themes will generally be the ones with the best sales, ie. they will be the popular themes.

So, based on all this, I suggest that LEGO's own catalogues are a good source of information on which themes have proven popular, and which have been less so.

Assuming I'm right, I would say that City is the most popular non-licenced theme, with Police being the most popular sub-theme.

Star Wars is clearly the winner on the licenced front.

Least popular is harder to judge, because there are lots of themes that have only lasted a single season. Juding by the slating it gets, Galidor wasn't popular, but I don't have figures to back that up.

I'd be interested in actual numbers, if anyone has them; but do bear in mind that TLG may have commercial reasons for not wanting to share the whole story.


Historically, what types of sets have proven to be a great investment? My brother recently sold some of the lego he had as a child, and they went for a lot more than they cost originally, even taking inflation into account.

So, what types of sets have risen in value most over the years?

The less sets there are available, the better the chances of a rising price. This implies the sets that will get more expensive with time are:

Sets that are or very close to being out of production
Sets that are expensive when they come out (> less sales)
Very large sets (expensive > less sales)
Licensed sets like Harry Potter or Star Wars (short production-time > less sales / collector's value)
Sets with unique/limited parts or colors like the maersk-ships
Collector's editions

But note that it's never so easy - licensed but small sets for example won't become very expensive as they usually sell very well, so you should look for a set with a combination of this criteria. For example: a very big licensed set like the Millennium Falcon.


Help identify large white wheels Have lots of mixed pieces that we bought second hand. We have come across very large white plastic solid wheels, resembles sand buggy wheels, but think they must be space related as they are white. Pieces could be from early 80s and forward.I might be wrong to think they are wheels but they came assembled like this so always thought they were. Love to find out which set they might have come from so we can build something awesome..

What you have there is a 6118 Wheel Hard Plastic Small (22mm D. x 24mm), and this wheel is pretty common, it features in 39 sets, but luckily for you only in 4 sets in the color White. These sets are:

1704-1  Ice Planet Satellite Plow - this set has 6 of these wheels.

6983-1 Ice Station Odyssey - this set has 10 of these wheels.

6814-1 Ice Tunnelator - this set has 4 of these wheels.

6898-1 Ice-Sat V - this set has 8 of these wheels.

If you count the number of wheels you have, you should be able to deduce which set they came from as each set has a different number of wheels.


What is this 1x2 hinge brick? What are the two pieces that make up this hinge and brick?

That's a 1x2 hinge brick. Here's a better image of what you're looking at:

This is part 3937 and 3938. Here are the two parts viewed separately:


Get robot to face perpendicular to nearest object, using the ultrasonic sensor in NXC? I have an ultrasonic sensor attached to a motor so that the sensor can rotate. Right now it stops once it scans a value less than 65 cm. What I want it to do is to scan its surroundings and then face the ultrasonic sensor perpendicular to a the closest object.

task findWall()
{
     OnFwd(OUT_C, 30);
     until(SensorUS(IN_4)<65);
     Off(OUT_BC);
}

I like your username. I'm not exactly good at NXC either, but I'm experienced in C and Java. So here's some pseudocode that should get the job done. This will rotate the scanning motor 180 degrees, while remembering the closest object it's seen, and then rotating that motor back to point towards the closest object. You will need to change the functions to correspond to the actual NXC functions.

int closestObjectDist = 100; //variable records the closest object's distance
int closestObjectAngle = 0;  //variable records the angle pointing to the closest object
int currentAngle = 0;        //variable to hold the scanning motor's current angle.
int currentDistance = 0;     //variable to hold the sensor's current distance reading

resetScanningMotorAngle();   //reset the scanning motor's angle to 0.
turnScanningMotorOn(10);     //start rotating the scanning motor, slowly.

while(currentAngle < 180)    //repeat until the scanning motor has rotated 180 degrees
{
    currentAngle = getScanningMotorDegrees();  //get the motor's current angle
    currentDistance = readUltrasonicSensor();  //get the sensor's current distance

    if( currentDistance < closestObjectDistance )  // Here's the important part:
    {                                              // When the sensor reads a distance that
        closestObjectDistance = currentDistance;   // is the smallest distance yet,
        closestObjectAngle = currentAngle;         // record the angle and distance.
    }
}
                                            //now we have the closest object's angle stored!
rotateScanningMotorTo(closestObjectAngle);  //rotate the motor back to the recorded angle.

This code assumes that the robot scans in a 180-degree arc, but you could easily just change the 180 to 360 to scan in a full circle.

After the loop, you can add or subtract 90 degrees to closestObjectAngle to make the motor point perpendicular to the closest object instead of pointing AT the closest object.

Ask if you have any questions!


Looking for sets to use as components of a 1930s - 1940s European city I'm planning to build a 1930s / 1940s European city (like Paris, London, Prague, ...).

As buildings, I'm currently going for modulars that could pass for pre-1950 European buildings, possibly with some customizations.

As cars, I currently have the Oxford classic car set & the car from Enlighten's Special Mission Zero set. In addition, I just bought the LEGO Shanghai Chase set, the LEGO Winter Village Station set & Enlighten's Sunshine Hotel for the cars in those sets.

Could anyone of you recommend some specific sets, besides the ones already mentioned, that would be suitable for a 1930 to 1950 city theme and could help me add more detail to my city?

Besides buildings & cars, I'm thinking of details like fountains, statues, benches, kiosks, bus stops & other details that could fit in a European city from between 1930 & 1950 and give it just a bit more character. Also interior details like bedrooms, living rooms or kitchens would be welcome.

As you may have noticed in my choice of cars, I don't care that much about the brand. I'm OK with buying either LEGO or any other brand, as long as the quality is good enough. What's far more important to me than the brand, is that the elements fit into a 1930 to 1950 setting and that they give my city just that little extra...

What about the 75930 Indoraptor Rampage for an almost timeless mansion? Without the raptors it is not too expensive.

The 10228 Haunted house could provide a good basis for a rebrick of a nice mansion on the hill just outside of your city. However, this one is ALWAYS expensive, as you probably know.

For many nice little ideas for everyday items and a MOC city, check out LionBricks' Youtube channel.


Can LEGO Boost play custom audio files? Can LEGO Boost play custom audio files on the Boost app from files kept on the device such as those downloaded from iTunes or transferred from a computer?

Are recordings from the tablet the only way to use custom sounds?

As far as I can tell, recordings from the tablet are the only way to use custom sounds at the moment. I imagine that the UI for a feature like this was deemed too complex for an app designed for children under 12. However, this should be easy to add to the app in a future update if there is demand for it.
One obvious workaround for this is to play the desired sound on another device and save it using the recording interface:

These recordings are limited to about 5 seconds.


I found this piece in a yard sale grab bag. What other elements do I need to make it work? I found this piece in a yard sale grab bag. What element(s) do I need to make this element function as it was originally intended?

Technic Turntable Large Type 1 Base (2856).

It's a Turntable Large Type 1 Top (2855) which is part of Technic Turntable Large Type 1, Complete Assembly (2856c01).


Have I got a mystery croissant lurking in my Lego collection? I've loved every minute of a massive LEGO sort-out recently, but a mystery imposter lurked in there.
My kids swear blind that we've had these two types of croissant for over seven years, but I don't think it can be so. Surely LEGO never made two types that were so close in appearance? And the imposter brick doesn't say "Lego" anywhere on it.
On the left we have an authentic LEGO piece (of which we own four or five), and on the right, the possible imposter (we only have one, which is telling). I thought it could be Playmobil or Sylvanian Families, or something like that.

My kids swear blind that the one on the right came from a Belville set, but a web search suggests not. They also insist it doesn't belong with any of their other toys, but I'd rather trust an internet stranger than my own kids ;)
So my question is - is the piece on the right definitely LEGO or not? And massive kudos if you can spot what it really is.

It looks like a possible match for these doll accessories.
"This listing is for a Barbie coffee shop or bakery accessories. Included are hot chocolate mugs, a coffee to go mug, croissants, muffins, donuts, a to go box, and a bakery display plate."


Are Samsonite gears compatible with modern Technic gears? Do the old Samsonite gears (above) work with current Technic gears (below)

LEGO bricks tend to be backward compatible with older bricks, but since I don't own any Samsonite gears I cannot tell.

Image credits belong to Technicopedia.

They are not compatible, the teeth are completely different.

Notice that the red old gear has 9 teeth and is the same size1 as a current 24-teeth, as illustrated by below:

The axle hole however is compatible, so you could have a construction using both types.

1. Actually, the distance between axles to have two of these red gears mesh is the same as the one required for two 24-teeth ones (60 ldu).


Identifying Lego set from 1980's Can someone please help me identify this Lego set from the 1980's?

I remember building a house, work shed/garage and some type of vehicle. The base plate is light gray. It came with 2 minifigures, male and female, a broom and shovel, and slanted windows that were used for a skylight.

My closest bet would be the Car Repair Shop. However, there are lots of other sets that could match the description.

Edit #1:

The other potential candidates:

Weekend Home
Auto Workshop
Holiday Home
Houses
House with Roof Windows
Holiday Villa

In case none on these is what you are looking for, you could take a look at Bricklink and browse the results.

Edit #2:

Based on the picture you added, the 730-2 BASIC Building Set seems the most likely choice (it has both minifigs, the broom, the shovel, the faucet, the slanted windows). There are also many pieces from other sets: both the blue and the red-yellow propeller, the yellow spaceship engine besides the male figure, etc.


How can a sticker be removed? In my younger days I may have placed a few stickers on my bricks.  Including some that covered multiple bricks.

Now my daughter has the tendency to do the same thing :)

How can I best remove the stickers, particularly old ones?

the best way i found out till now is to get them of as good as possible with your nails or a plastic-knife (i wouldn't recommend to use metal knifes or razorblades - if you do, be careful to avoid scratching the bricks surface) and then remove the remaining glue with:

pure alcohol or
glass cleaner
cheap hairspay (spray 2-3 seconds from very close distance and then rub of with a piece of cloth) sometimes also does a good job


What is the true angle of a cheese slope? What is the true angle of a cheese slope?

Bricklink lists it as "Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3" while LDraw and Peeron list it as "Slope Brick 31 1 x 1 x 2/3". Why do these sources disagree, and what is the real angle?

I guess I could send the question to math.se, but I think we can figure that one out ourselves; it's just a bit of trigonometry after all, right?

Let's see:
- The large side is 20 ldu (standard brick width).
- The small side is 16 ldu (2 plates) - 4 ldu (half a plate), that is 12 ldu (half the height of a brick).

So the angle is tan-1(12/20), which is approximately 30,96°. So it's closer to 31, but gives 30 if truncated down.

As for why the sources differ, I couldn't find documentation on the naming process they both use, but I can easily imagine that someone measuring the angle with a simple protractor could be mistaken by a degree. Another possible explanation would be that the people behind the BrickLink naming chose to round the angle down to simplify things, as a 30° angle feels more natural than a 31° one; while LDraw people may be more used to precise measurements and felt that 31° was closer to the truth. Again, this is all pure speculation, I didn't find naming conventions or guidelines for either.


Finding certain positions in a room? I have LEGO NXT and a square room of 100x100cm. I would like to use the center of the room always as my starting point(the black box). The green box is going to be my park area. Circles can be the randomly placed obstacles on my way. Red is the walls of the room. Objectives:

When starting no matter where the robot is, it should return to the center, afterwards it should be able to park into the green box when requested.
In its returning center/home progress there can be obstacles on the way, I should try to overcome these obstacles and park successfully. The obstacles don't have to be circular, they can be square as well.
If there is an obstacle in the park/center area I should give an error not possible to park or abort the parking...

Worst-case scenarios: Robot starting from the corner and obstacles on the way to park.
I'm using for the time being the color sensor and ultrasonic sensor, I can also add a gyro sensor but haven't made yet deep search about it. I also have an RFID sensor but I think only with 2 transponders it won't help much.

My first challenge is without any obstacles for starters would be identifying the center to the robot, and it knows where it has to come from a random position. Any tips?

There are a few different but related problems here.

Position Your robot should be able to know where it is in the room. This can be achieved in a few ways:

Using the ultrasonic sensor as a sonar, rotating it around and storing the readouts, then calculating based on the known map of the room (if the layout is fixed and known in advance).
Tracking the movements and calculating from the last known position. This method depends on how accurate are the starting data and the measurement of the movement. This also loses accuracy over time.
Placing unique markers along the floor or the wall that the robot can read. I don't know how could this be accomplished using LEGO pieces, but I wouldn't say it's impossible to do. However, you could mark the two important locations (the green box and the center) to have an easy way to tell if you're at them.

Orientation Your robot should also know which direction is it facing. Most of the above methods offer a way to calculate this, but you could also use a compass sensor.
Knowledge of the environment Your robot should know if there is an obstacle in its way. The random obstacles are by definition impossible to know in advance, so you'll need to detect them somehow.

You could use the aforementioned ultrasonic sonar if the obstacles provide a good enough acho.
If the obstacles are made of a suitable material, you could try to use a color sensor to see if there is one in front of the robot
In theory, you could try to measure the resistance of the motors when you try to drive into an obstacle but this might prove impossible, depending on the capabilities of the hardware and software you are using. This method also makes it impossible to use the incremental location method.

Given these problems in my opinion your best bet would be a simpler, more brute force approach. Outlined in highly abstract pseudocode below:

going to the green target box:
while not in target area
  while not at wall
    if obstacle is in front of me: get around
    else: move forward
  end while // now you're at the wall
  move forward along the wall
end while // now you're at the target

going to the center: // assuming you're at the green box
turn towards the center
while not at center:
  if obstacle is in front of me: get around
  else: move forward
  if moved more than the journey should have taken: announce that you're stuck
end while // now you're at the center or lost


What is this piece and what is its number? Does anyone know what number piece this is?

Looks like it's Support 2 x 4 x 5 Stanchion Inclined 4476a or 4476b.


Control Lego Technic Control+ Hub via Python Is it possible to control the Lego Technic Control+ Hub with Python?
I have tried using Pybricks but that didn't work well for me.

Yes, it is possible to remote control a Technic Control+ hub with Python using a library such as pylgbst or bricknil.
You can also write MicroPython programs that run on the hub directly using Pybricks.
You can get support for Pybricks at https://github.com/pybricks/support/discussions. There is a Bluetooth troubleshooting guide to help with connection issues.


What is the purpose of the hole in the 12 x 12 boat bow (6051)? I recently received Renegade Runner (6268), and I noticed that it has a somewhat awkward hole in the bow:

The main bow piece has a hole for some reason, but I'm not sure what it is for. Here's the part:

As far as I could tell, this is a list of all sets which use this part:

6268
6250
6493
6280
6291
6271

In each of these sets, the hole in the front is simply left open. Is there some reason for this?

I didn't intend to answer my own question, but after reading through the comments and doing some more digging, I think it is clear that this was intended to be a hawsehole (hole that the anchor rope passes through).

The 12 x 12 boat bow in question is a chronological descendant of the 16 x 12 boat bow:

That larger part was created with the launch of the Pirates theme in 1989 and was used in the two flagships of that time: Caribbean Clipper (6274) and Black Seas Barracuda (6285). Carribean Clipper clearly uses that hole for the anchor rope:

The 12 x 12 bow didn't appear in a set until 1992, so my best guess is that this hole was included to match the earlier part, but set designers ended up not actually using it for that purpose.


How can I open part #53500 and replace the battery? I've searched and can't find any info on it on how to open this LEGO part 53500
Won't open the same way as other light bricks, and don't see any clips or a continuous line where it should open. Need to change the battery inside.

I found this Youtube video
Piraka eye replacement
and this article on bzpower.com
How to Replace the Battery in Piraka Eyes

The battery used is a CR927 3V Lithium Battery placed + side up.
First, take a tiny flat-head screwdriver and place the tip of it within one of the two inward crevasses on the backside of the piece, and slide the head of the screwdriver up to the round circular portion of the piece which holds the battery. Once this is done hook the tip of the screw driver inwards and carefully pull up, the outward plastic of the second half may bend as you are doing this, however from my experience it is unlikely to be predominately bent in any major way or snap, but it's probably best not to bend it too much. Once the bottom portion of the piece has been separated you may continue to remove it, or just let it open enough for the old battery to be able to fall out and so you can place the new one in, + side up like the old one.
Once the new battery is in place snap the two halves of the piece back together, during this the battery may jostle around a bit, but just as long as you have a steady hand it's unlikely to misalign greatly, let alone fall out. Also during the process of snapping it back together the connection between the battery and metal prongs may activate, giving you a glimpse of the light emitted from the piece now. Once you have the two halves together into one with the new battery in-place, you can now test the light capability of the piece, and if all went well you can now use it properly again.


Why is this piece notched? It's nowhere as deep as the garage door notches they designed to let the doors slide up and down.

How does the notch fit into the initial set that the part was first introduced and does this shallow groove have specific function?

For reference, this is "Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 4 x 4 Dish at 90 degrees" (30209).

As far as I know, it's not intended to have any building function, it's just there to prevent any excess plastic at the fill hole from getting in the way of other pieces.

I can't find a good close-up picture, but that particular piece is filled through a hole in the mold at that location, which you can kinda see in this picture.

Without the small recess, if the sprue were to leave behind a small nub, it could prevent sticking the piece next to another piece.


EV3 Ultrasonic Sensor block is not availible in the Home Edition software I can't find the ultrasonic sensor block on the programming app on my computer. I am using the Lego Mindstorms EV3 Home Edition.

You can download the Ultrasonic sensor block (and Gyro sensor too) from the official MINDSTORMS website.
Look for "Ultrasonic Sensor Block" near the bottom of the downloads page.


What is NXT-G number format? We've been following this tutorial to connect a NXT 1.0 brick to a PC via Bluetooth.

We've been able to set up the communication, send and receive data in ASCII format.

However, whenever we try to send an integer and use it for calculations, it returns the wrong result.

For example, sending 60000:

TX: 00 09 00 05 60 EA 00 00 00

RX: 02 09 00

After adding 1, it returns the following:

TX: 00 13 0A 00 01

RX: 02 13 00 00 05 00 00 80 3F 00 ... (zeroes)

We've tried sending different numbers, but they all return the same value.

The NXT-G software is identical to that in the tutorial.

How does NXT-G handle the integer data type?

The NXT actually uses IEEE 794 32-bit floating point number format in little endian byte order. I like using this site for conversions.

So, to decode your messages:

  TX: 00 09 00 05 60 EA 00 00 00

Byte 0: 0x00 - response required

Byte 1: 0x09 - write message command

Byte 2: 0x00 - Mailbox 1

Byte 3: 0x05 - Message size of 5 bytes

Bytes 4-7: 0x60 0xEA 0x00 0x00 - since this is little endian, reverse the bytes, 0x0000EA60, which plugged into the conversion site gives us 8.4078E-41

Byte 8: 0x00 - null terminator

Then you add 1.0 on the NXT and return the result.

  RX: 02 13 00 00 05 00 00 80 3F 00 ... (zeroes)

Byte 0: 0x02 - return packet

Byte 1: 0x13 - message read command

Byte 2: 0x00 - success

Byte 3: 0x00 - Mailbox 1

Byte 4: 0x05 - message size of 5 bytes

Bytes 5-8: 0x00 0x00 0x80 0x3F - again, little endian, so reversing bytes gives 0x3F800000 and plugging in to the calculator gives 1.0

Bytes 9-63: 0x00... - padding

So, it looks like the NXT is doing exactly what you actually told it (8.4078E-41 + 1.0 = 1.0) rather than what you thought you told it (60000 + 1 = 60001).

Plugging 60000.0 into the calculator, it looks like your message should be

TX: 00 09 00 05 00 60 6a 47 00


What part(s) can I use to connect technic liftarms with modules? I have the following setup:

How can I connect the liftarm to the stacked bricks? The holes have different distances, so I can't just use black pins. Any suggestions?

Put two plates between each layer of Technic bricks and the holes will align.

This technique was used commonly in studded Technic sets. Here's a page from the instructions for 8042 where you can see this used in several different places:


Please help identify this LEGO set with large black curved elements with orange stickers Can you please help me identify this set.

These are parts from 8058-1: Guardian of the Deep

except the Black Aircraft Fuselage Curved Forward 6 x 10 Bottom with 3 Holes.


What sets are these electrical parts from, dark grey bases and remotes with orange and yellow buttons? I have been searching for a long time but I am struggling to find the origin for these parts. I think they are possibly Power Functions IR remotes & battery packs...?

Thanks for any help.

The Battery Boxes on the left are 5115 or 9831 (most likely the former) from the 9V system (immediate predecessor of Power Functions). These don't come from sets but were items that were available for purchase on their own.

The middle unit is 23323c01 Electric, Bionicle Motor Remote Control Receiver Unit, Complete Assembly (Manas) from set 8539 Manas from the Bionicle theme from 2001.

Finally, the two remote controllers on the right are item 23335c01 also from 8539 Manas.


LEGO Digital Designer does not to connect to the Internet on Win10 laptop I just installed on a MSI laptop running Windows 10 Ver. 1803 with a gigabyte internet connection (960mps upload 950mps download).   Every time I start up the application, it immediately displays a dialog box stating "Internet access failed" as you can see below. Clicking retry does not help as it simply pops up the same dialog box again, clicking cancel shuts the program down. Clicking ok simply allows the program to run in offline mode which is not what I want.

Quoting from Lego's LDD page:

Sorry. We don’t support LDD version 4.3.10 anymore.
If you still use version 4.3.10 you will experience errors when launching the application.
You can still use “offline” mode if you wish.
We urge you to update, use the download link, and install free application for Windows PC & Mac OSX.

There is nothing wrong with your computer, or your internet connection (and it is not just you). LDD will still function normally, albeit in "offline mode."
LDD is now past its end of life, and Lego apparently does not care any longer about collecting usage data on LDD.
The "Internet access failed" message is because LDD can no longer reach a Lego server (62.199.219.133). LDD "phoned home" every time it was started. Now because it can not reach its home server LDD generates this "Internet access failed" message and will only run in offline mode. Apart from spoofing the replies LDD is looking for there is no way to run LDD in online mode any longer.
However, seeing as how Lego shut down the DesignByMe service you are not missing much (if anything) by running LDD in offline mode.


How to make a regular pentagon from technic bricks For the purposes of this build, we need a pentagon (figure with 5 sides), that is regular (all sides have equal length), and it needs to be able to be mounted on a build (like a wreath) by a technic-friction-pin, (the little black ones).

This may be hard to achieve, with the given possible angles. The pentagonal shape must maintain its shape, no warping, etc. It must also be made of "properly fitting pieces."

Using the same length ratios as in the construction that Philo posted in his answer I created this:

It uses length 5, 6 and 7 thin liftarms (5 of each) and 30 half-pins
I'm quite happy with it!


The route of a major power line with branching smaller lines In this discussion I was shown a diagram of how to bend a single power line around a street corner.

However, what if I have a straight major line with several minor lines branching off at right angles? How do I build/orient the utility poles in these cases? Thanks.

The first photo in the Wikipedia entry for "utility pole" shows additional horizontal bars for the respective branches. Single lines are attached directly to the main pole. I think on this scale you don't have to worry about how realistic the setup is (i.e. how the branching lines are connected to the main lines, how the transformers are connected, etc.).


What kind of yellow is used for a typical minifigure? I've done some research and found a basic LEGO basic colour pallet. I recognise the yellow used for yellow bricks (24, Bright Yellow, #fec400) but it doesn't seem to match the colour for minifigures which are slightly less orange.

I believe it is supposed to be 24 Bright Yellow, however I know there were some complaints a last year or so regarding the collectable Minifigures and others that were made in China not having the same hue as "regular" minifigures - and now that some of the licensed products are also being made there, this difference will become more common.

These figures are apparently not made from ABS but a cheaper plastic, which is what causes the difference in colour.


Is there a named scale for sets such as 75055 Imperial Star Destroyer or 75054 AT-AT I am looking for the name of the scale that most Star Wars sets use, that isn't minifigure scale as it has been scaled down to an appropriate size but still has an interior for minifigures, such as the Star Destroyer 75055 or the AT-AT 75054? Is there a specific name like there is for minifigure scale and Microscale?

As far as I can find, there are very few official "scale" terms used in LEGO. The term "Minifig-scale" is a fan term and is fairly loose, as the scale of the figs themselves don't really equate to reasonable human dimensions. Add to that the fact that minifig-scale vehicles and buildings have had variable relative sizes compared to minifigs, making it difficult to describe a standard scale that is officially used in LEGO sets.

There are a few "micro-scale" sets, including Micro Scale Space Cruiser, Micro Scale, and Micro Scale Bag End. And, if you will forgive a bit of levity, there is the Kitchen Scale.

My favorite scale that LEGO officially produced was the Midi-scale Millennium Falcon). However, they also did a Midi-scale Star Destroyer that is totally NOT the same scale as the Falcon. So, even in their official terminology the "scale" is a rather fluid thing.

For a more indepth discussion of scale, they had one over on the Brickset Forums. I particularly like MrShinyAndNew's answer (third one down as of this post).


Is this minifigure with a white shirt showing a little orange monster worth anything? I have a LEGO minifigure that I am unable to find anywhere on the internet. He has the classic smiling yellow head, with a white torso portraying an orange monster shaped as a 3D cube/hexagon, with little vampire fangs in its mouth and crossed eyes. He has simple red legs. Does anyone know how much it might be worth? I am thinking of selling it.

The whole minifig assembly reminds me of of those services that allow you to print your own image on a torso piece such as Minifigs.me.

I wouldn't be surprised if this minifig was made using the same service as I cannot identify the graphic. I suspect this minifig could have been ordered as a promotional item.
The actual parts themselves are so common that they might even be the cheapest parts you could get to make a minifig. The parts can be sourced easily for under a dollar assuming you bought the torso without a custom print.


No power to Mindstorm EV3 Brain My 11 year old just spent her entire Christmas Day assembling the Mindstorm EV3 Reptar, but when we put batteries in the brain nothing happened.  It didn't turn on, no lights, no sign of power at all.  We made sure the batteries were in correctly but still no luck.  Does it need to be replaced or are we doing something wrong?  Help!

If you are 100% sure that the batteries are in the correct direction and the batteries are brand-new, unplug all of the cables from the EV3 brick and try again to make sure they could not be causing a short circuit. If it still doesn't now power up, contact LEGO customer support.

In the US, you will be directed as follows...

  We have a dedicated Tech Support team for MINDSTORMS products. They can troubleshoot the problem and either resolve the issue or help you to get a replacement part. Tech Support can be reached at 1-877-680-2800 from Monday through Friday, 7:30am - 5:30pm CST.


Is it okay to put rechargeable AA batteries into the EV3? Is it really okay to put rechargeable AA batteries into the EV3 and continuously put them in after recharging them each time? Boring old one-use AA batteries are getting too expensive for me, and I know that I should use the rechargeable battery which is intended for EV3. But still, will it work?

According to the posts in this Eurobricks thread, it is indeed possible, even if there are a few caveats to keep in mind (like the maximal current the batteries can supply versus the maximal current the attached motors can draw).


Can you identify these curved bricks for me? (I don't care about the decal, I just need the general shape)

Large one is Brick, Round Corner 10 x 10 with Slope 33 Edge, Axle Hole, Facet Cutout with Holographic Circuit Pattern Model Right (Sticker)

which is a decorated version of Brick, Round Corner 10 x 10 with Slope 33 Edge, Axle Hole, Facet Cutout

Smaller ones are Brick, Round Corner 4 x 4 Macaroni Wide with 3 Studs


Where can I find this piece in LDD V4.3.11? I am building a mech in LDD V4.3.11 and I need this piece for the head sculpt of the mech. I can't find it anywhere in the toolbox, with and without using the search box above. Where can I find this piece (Part No. 14704)?

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=14704#T=C

I tried in version 4.3.10. The element is present both in standard and extended mode.
I updated to version 4.3.11, had to update anyway as 4.3.10 apparently wasn't supported anymore and only worked offline.
In the standard mode, I can confirm element 14704 is not present.
However, if you switch to extended mode (Main menu -> View -> New themes -> extended), it's present.
Unfortunately the extended mode let's you build in colors that might not exist...
I hope this gets addressed in a next update as to me this seems a standard element.


What is the name/part number of this 1x1 LEGO brick, used to make "cat eyes"? Could anyone please tell me the name/part number of the LEGO component used for the cat's eyes?

Name: Lever Small Base 4592.
Bricklink link HERE.


Please help identify LEGO Batman vehicle I'm trying to identify the set that this partial Batman vehicle belongs to. I believe the front center piece is part # 4623524 Roof tile 6x10, but all of the sets that contain that part don't seem to match the rest of the pieces.

Here is the bottom front of the boat as it has an unusual shape that I can't find:

It appears to actually be an Iron Man set, with the dark green #4623524 piece swapped out for the same piece in black from a Batman set.

The base is 76006-1 Iron Man: Extremis Sea Port Battle

Based on the 1x2 slope piece with the Batman symbol, the #4623524 piece likely comes from 76000-1 Arctic Batman vs. Mr. Freeze: Aquaman on Ice


NXT shuts down USB on Mac after connecting motors After successfully connecting our NXT to my Macbook Air and upgrading firmware to 1.31 we built our first robot. We plugged in the motors to ports A, B & C and now we get an Error stating that USB ports have been shut down because a device is drawing too much power. I have tried Reseting NXT and now it is stuck in "clicking mode" I have tried two different computers and three different cables. I also plugged in in through a USB hub all with the same result. I have restarted, Shutdown and restarted, Unplugged and restarted, Reset P-Ram.

The clicking mode means that you need to reload the firmware on the NXT (under the Tools menu in the NXT software).

If you still get the overcurrent shutdown using different cables and different computers, then the conclusion has to be that there is something wrong with the NXT itself. The USB port should be drawing little to no current at all since the NXT has its own power source.

It would also be worth contacting LEGO support if you do indeed have a defective NXT.


What does the acronym SPUA stand for? I once heard someone use the acronym SPUA while referring to a LEGO piece. What does that stand for and what does it mean?

SPUA - Special Part Used Again, a part which is seemingly only for a particular set or theme, but is used again

List of LEGO Abbreviations from Brickipeda


What is this 2x2 white brick in the shape of a figure driving a go kart? I have a 2x4 white Lego brick in the shape of a figure driving a go kart. It has a stalk to accommodate a head with Lego embossed on it. There is no serial number except for a 4 stamped underneath. Does anyone know what this brick is and what set it's from?

Based on your description, i think you have

x351 - Brick, Modified 2 x 2 Racer Driver No Head

This comes from:

4593-1: Zero Hurricane and Red Blizzard


What are the differences between Studio 2 and LDcad when working with Technic and EV3? Information regarding different software has come up over the years, but I am looking for something current.
My goal is to create instruction books for some of my designs. Previously I used LDD, which was great for what it was, but frustrating to use with Technic parts and especially gears. And trying to get instructions out of it for a child to follow was.... But hey, it was free and worked. I'm ready to move on.
I will be working on a Windows system and my goal is to turn some models into a set of instructions. I will be working with WeDo 2.0, EV3, Boost and Spike Prime. LDD was great for slapping basic models together really quick but getting gears to align was a chore and linkages were impossible. From what I have heard Stud.io 2 has a great system for putting instructions together and a good rendering program built in. I am also interested in learning curves. How long does it take to get up to speed each program?
So simple question, what are the pros and cons for each program (keeping in mind my goals).

Please note that I think that software preference can very often be based on many factors that are difficult to enumerate and sometimes even more difficult to express. That said, I think there are a few important differences between the two specific pieces of software that you referenced that could be useful for answering your question. (Also note that my impression of LDCad is based on a much more limited experience as I am more often a Bricklink Studio user.)
Interface
Bricklink Studio's interface is more similar to your previous software, LDD, in that by default it has "part snapping" enabled. The default camera viewport behavior is also similar in that clicking and dragging using the left and right mouse buttons perform very similarly (though not identically).
LDCad's interface is much more reminiscent of actual CAD/CAM system interfaces and can take some work to get used to. The default viewport behavior is very different from LDD. It also does not have "part snapping" turned on by default but instead uses "grid snapping" by default. It does have "part snapping" available though, as the documentation notes, the behavior can be somewhat inconsistent.
Automatic rotation
Bricklink Studio includes a certain amount of automatic rotation when adding new parts to a model that can help in many instances. For example, if you add an axle to a model, rotate that axle slightly, then add a gear to that model Studio will most likely automatically rotate the gear to fit the axle for you. That said with even a few parts it is likely you will have to rotate one or more parts in order to get them to mesh well in the model. Again, studio does make this relatively simple since you can pretty easily select multiple parts and rotate the collection on a single point.
LDCad does not appear to do any automatic rotation when adding new parts though it does allow rotating multiple selected parts.
Flexible Parts
Bricklink Studio has a very small set of flexible parts and is pretty much limited to axles, hoses, chains, and studded strings.
LDCad includes a much larger selection of flexible parts, importantly for Technic based builds: rubber bands. There is a learning curve associated with using them, but that they are present at all is a huge plus.
Instruction Generation
Bricklink Studio includes a mode that enables relatively easy generation of instructions. I have personally found it to be pretty decent but still need to usually tweak the output a bit to make some steps clear.
I did not find any default support for instruction generation in LDCad but since it is using LDRAW files by default it would be relatively easy to use those files in one of the several instruction generators that are available separately.


Power for LEGO Creator Expert Roller Coaster (10261) In order to power the Creator Expert Roller Coaster (10261) can the 'Power Up' components Technic XL Motor (88014) and Technic Hub (88012) be substituted for 'Power Functions' components M Motor (8883) and AAA Battery Box (88000) which have both been discontinued?  Thank you for your assistance.

Yes, Powered Up is the replacement for Power Functions. However, Powered Up requires a smart device (smartphone/tablet) to control the hubs.
Used Power Functions parts are also available for sale on sites such as Bricklink, Brick Owl and Ebay.


Technic Pin/Travis Brick Legal Connection? Is seating a Travis brick on a Technic pin a legal connection? TLG has used this construction at least once (M-Tron Particular Ionizer's "rotor"), but that was in the early 90s. Will this connection stress the Technic pin?

Here's an example of what I'm referring to from that set:

In general, this sort of connection is illegal, but I think that it works fine with a Travis brick. Technic pins must be "in click" in a model, or the pins will be held in compression and can be damaged over time.

Here's a slide from Jamie Barard's classic "Stressing the Elements" presentation that explain the need to have Technic pins in click:

And here's the slide that explicitly states that Technic pins should not be used to connect to System bricks:

Here's an example of a set that didn't keep Technic pins in click and the resulting damage from prolonged storage assembled:

With all of that said, the four holes that run through the stud connections on the sides of a Travis brick provide ample room for a pin to click into it. This isn't an obvious connection as with a Technic brick, but the fact the pin can move freely inside the brick indicates that it isn't in compression and is simply constrained to remain inside.

I can't speak to whether or not this type of connection would get through a design review today, but I can say with confidence that this wouldn't cause damage to elements. If this is considered "illegal" it would be for other reasons.